TESTING STANDARDS & METHODS

For test results to correlate between laboratories it is essential that each test conducted
is to a standard test method. the most commonly used test standards are:
American society for testing and materials for USA
American association of textile chemist and colorist for USA
BS for United Kingdom
CAN for Canada
DIN Deutsches Institute for Normung : Germany
JIS for Japan (Japan industrial standard)
AS for Australia
BIS Bureau of Indian standard
ISO
EN-ISO
AATCC & ASTM are the preferred standards for the North American continent while ISO
is used for the rest of the world. Individual countries have derived their own standard
methodology but are usually based on either the ISO, AATCC/ASTM or BS test methods.
Recently, with the European Union being formed, a consolidation of all standard
methods used in Europe is begin done. In most cases, common standards are being
evolved which are designated as EN or EN ISO.
 FABRIC QUALITY ASSURANCE
SIGNIFICANCE / IMPORTANCE OF TEXTILE TESTING
To determine the suitability of a fabric for a particular end use.
The type of yarn used plays a significance role in determining the quality of the
fabric.
Research and development to enable new and desirable textile products to be
produced.
Product performance and evaluation to determine if the fabric is suitable for the
intended end use.
Quality control to ensure that the fabric will be made properly and efficiently. Thus
claims and returns will be minimized.
Problem analysis to determine why a fabric or textile product is not performing as
desired
Product comparison to determine which material would be the better value.
Proper advertising to enable ads to be truthful and not misleading or false
Adherence to government regulations.
TEXTILE TESTING - DEFINATION
It is used to determine whether or not a product complies with or performs in a
specified manner in relation to a standard or other requirement.
 TYPES OF TEST METHODS
Physical tests: These tests are mainly physical or mechanical in nature and
includes breaking strength, abrasion resistance, & pilling propensity.
Chemical Tests: Chemicals are used includes fiber identification using the
solubility method, detection of antibacterial activity of fabrics,&
determination of the presence of mercerization in cotton fabrics.
Tests to determine colorfastness properties: These tests are used to
determine the resistance of fabrics to color change under various
conditions, includes colorfastness to sunlight, washing,& crocking.
Optical Tests: A microscope or another magnifying device is used, includes
grading of wool fibers, fiber identification of textile defects.

Standard atmosphere for Testing - it is necessary to specify the

atmospheric conditions in which any testing is carried out. Therefore a
standard atmosphere has been agreed for testing purposes and is defined
as a relative humidity of 65% and a temperature of 20 0 C. For practical
purposes certain tolerances in these values are allowed so that the testing
atmosphere is RH 65%+ 2%, 20 + 20 C.
 PHYSICAL TESTS
TYPES OF PHYSICAL TESTS
Durability test Tensile Strength, Breaking
Strength, Tearing Strength, Bursting Strength
Friction test Abrasion Resistance, Pilling
Resistance
Appearance test Wrinkle Resistance
Functional test Fabric Dimensional change,
Fabric Flammability.
 DURABILITY TEST
REASONS TO CARRY OUT DURABILITY TEST
To check that the fabric conforms to specifications
To note the effects of changes in structural details.
To note the affects of physical and chemical treatments,
exposure to weather, launderings etc.
To obtain some indication of probable performance in
use
To investigate causes of failure and customer complaints.
To help in the design of a fabric for a specific purpose.
To study the interaction of fibers, yarns and fabric
properties
 DURABILITY TEST
TENSILE STRENGTH TESTING - Tensile strength is the
resistance of a material subject to tension by an external
force.
A testing machine used for tests where a pulling force is
exerted on the specimen is called tensile testing machine.
Each machine has 3 basic elements of strength testing
machine: loading mechanism, clamping mechanism,
recording mechanism.
There are 3 testing machines:
Constant rate of traverse (CRT)
Constant rate of extension (CRE)
Constant rate of load (CRL)
 DURABILITY TEST
FABRIC BREAKING STRENGTH - The breaking strength of the material is the
maximum force needed to resist rupture during the tensile strength. Maximum
tensile strength of a specimen is expressed as force per unit of cross sectional area
required to produce rupture.. (kg/cm2 or lbs/ inch2)
Breaking test is one directional test and is suitable for woven fabrics. The breaking
strength is to be evaluated in both warp and the filling directions. This test can be
used to determine the effects of destructive forces on a woven fabric. This force
includes such finishes as embossing, napping& resin treatments.
The breaking strength test is performed on most woven, non woven and felted
fabrics. It is not recommended for knitted material since they elongate easily, with
the specimen becoming distorted.
This test can be performed with either wet or dry condition

TEST METHODS FOR FABRIC BREAKING STRENGTH

Grab test
Raveled strip test
Cut strip test
Modified grab test
 DURABILITY TEST
Tearing strength It is the force needed to continue a tear in a fabric. It is a
unidirectional test like breaking strength test; it is performed in both the warp and weft
directions.
It is only performed on woven fabric. It is particularly important in industrial fabrics that
are exposed to rough handling in use such as tents and sacks and also those where
propagation of a tear would be catastrophic such as parachutes. Outdoor clothing,
overalls and uniforms are types of clothing where tearing strength is of importance.
Fabric having a plain weave and a high number of yarns per inch will tend to exhibit
lower tearing strength since the yarn cannot move into bunches. Whereas in twill and
satin weave the yarn would shift and bunch together from the tearing force being
exerted.
Resin treatments such as crease resistance finishes which cause the yarns to adhere to
one another also have the same effect. The tensile properties of the constituent fibers
have an influence on tearing resistance.
TEST METHODS:
Tongue Method
Pendulum Method
 DURABILITY TEST
Bursting strength - It is the force needed to rupture a fabric by
distending it with a force applied at right angle to the material.
Bursting strength is an alternative method of measuring strength in
which the material is stressed in all directions at the same time and is
therefore more suitable for such materials.
This is especially desirable for materials such as knits, laces and
nonwovens. There are also fabrics which are simultaneously stressed
in all directions during service, such as parachute fabrics, filters, sacks
and nets, where it may be important to stress them in a realistic
manner.
This test has application in testing woven fabrics that are to be
stressed equally in every direction when in use.

Two Methods:
Diaphragm Bursting Method
Ball Bursting Method
 FRICTION TEST
Abrasion is the wearing a way of a section of material by the
rubbing against another surface. Tests for abrasion resistance is
very complex because of the many variables that influence fabric
wear. Fabrics with smooth surface tend to resist the effects of
abrasion to greater degree than fabrics with rough, non smooth
surface. Materials made with novelty yarns usually possess
lower abrasion resistance.
The resistance to abrasion of a material is greatly affected by the
conditions of the test like specimen tension, type of abradent,
amount of pressure between abradent and specimen.
Various criteria can be used to determine the end point of the
test. The specimen could be tested until the appearance of the
first sign of wear; or when there is a yarn break; or with the
complete destruction of the fabric in the test area.
 FRICTION TEST
Factors affecting abrasion resistance
Fiber type and properties
Yarn Twist
Fabric Structure

TEST METHODS
Rotary platform double-head method
Flexing and abrasion method
Inflated diaphragm method
Oscillatory cylinder method
Martindale abrasion test
 FRICTION TEST
Pilling - It is the formation of clusters or balls of tangled fibers on the
surface of a material occurring from surface rubbing.
These pills are attached to the surface of fabric by one or more fibers.
The resistance to pilling by a particular fabric will vary with the
conditions of actual use as well as the way in which the individual wears
the garment.
The pills are more noticeable when the degree of color contrast with the
fabric is great. Lint pills are usually more noticeable than regular pills.
The development of pills is accompanied by surface changes, like change
of color, development of fuzz, or reduction of cover.
Usually the pilling specimens are rated by comparing them to actual
samples or photographs showing a range of pilling effects.

Test Methods
Random tumble pilling method
Brush and fabric to fabric method
 APPEARENCE TEST
FABRIC RESISTANCE TO WRINKLING
Wrinkle may be described as a fold in the fabric.
Greater the resilience of fibers fewer and less sharp the wrinkles will be
Parameters such as percent relative humidity, temperature, time under pressure,
amount of pressure and recovery time must be controlled in the test.
Wrinkle resistance the fabric is determined by various factors:
A resilient fiber content , such as polyester or wool
Highly twisted yarns
Low yarns per inch
Thick, lofty construction
Finishes such as CRF(Crease Retention Finish) finish for cotton fabrics
A weave with few interlacing, such as 4X4 basket weave.

TEST METHODS
Recovery angle method
Appearance method
 Appearance Test
Drape It is the extent to which a fabric will deform when it
is allowed to hang. Drapability of a fabric is combined effect
of several factors such as stiffness, rigidity, weight, thickness
etc. Stiffness, an attribute of fabric hand is one of the most
important factors determining draping quality of fabric e.g.
soft fabric drapes closer to the body forming ripples
whereas stiff fabric drapes away from the body. Stiffness of
fabric itself depends upon geometrical parameters of the
fabric.

Test Method
Drape meter is used to determine a direct objective
measurement of fabric drape.
 AIR PERMEABILITY TEST
The air permeability of a fabric is a measure of
how well it allows the passage of air through it.
The ease or otherwise of passage of air is of
importance for a number of fabric end uses such
as industrial filters, tents, sailcloth's, parachutes,
raincoat materials, shirting's, down proof fabric
and airbags.
Air permeability is defined as the volume of air in
milliliters which is passed in one second through
100s mm2 of the fabric at a pressure difference of
100mm head of water.
 FUNCTIONAL TEST
FABRIC DIMENSIONAL CHANGE
Dimensional change is the increase or decrease in the length or
width of a fabric called growth and shrinkage respectively.
Increase in dimension s called growth while decrease is called
shrinkage and change is usually expressed in percentage.
Fabric shrink or grow for various reasons. Like exposure to heat,
water or dry-cleaning solvent causes some material to change its
dimensionality.
Some fabrics when dried under tension tend to return to their
original size.

Calculation of percentage of shrinkage (or growth)

% Shrinkage (or growth) = Original length New length X 100
Original length
 FUNCTIONAL TEST
Fabric Flammability - Flammability refers burning behavior,
specifically to ease of ignition and continued burning after ignition
Fabrics can be placed in different categories with regard to
flammability.
Flammable fabrics will be completely consumed when exposed to
fire.
In order to for such fabrics to be nonflammable it has to undergo
some chemical treatment and then called flame retardant fabric.
If the fabric is developed from inflammable fibres , it is called
flame proof fabrics.

Test Method
FLAMMABILITY TESTER - 45-Degree Angle Test
 COLORFASTNESS TEST
COLOR FASTNESS It is property of a pigment or dye to
retain its original hue, especially without fading, running,
or changing when wetted, washed, cleaned; or stored
under normal conditions when exposed to light, heat, or
other influences.
Types Of Colorfastness - It is adversely affected by:
Washing
Light
Crocking
Abrasion
Gases in Atmosphere
Frosting
Perspiration
Heat
 Other Tests
Snagging - A snag is a loop of fibre (or yarn) that is
pulled from a fabric when it is in contact with a rough
object. Snags detract from the appearance of the
fabric but do not reduce any of its other properties.
Fabrics made from bulked continuous filament yarns
are particularly susceptible to the formation of snags
although woven fabrics with long floats can also
suffer from this problem.
Test Method
Mace snagging test
 Other Test
Stiffness - It is a special property of fabric. It is
the tendency of fabric to keep standing without
any support or tendency to resist bending and
deflection. It is a key factor in the study of handle
and drape of fabric.

Test Method
Cantilever bending test.