COSTING OF FIBRE TO

FABRIC
FOR CLASS PRESENTATION- R.K.SAHA
 Textile manufacturing is a major industry. It is
based on the conversion of fiber into yarn, yarn
into fabric. These are then dyed or printed,
fabricated into clothes. Different types of fiber
are used to produce yarn.
 Folding and Twisting
 Plying is done by pulling yarn from two or more bobbins
and twisting it together, in the opposite direction that in
which it was spun. Depending on the weight desired,
the cotton may or may not be plied, and the number of
strands twisted together varies.
 Gassing
 Gassing is the process of passing yarn, as distinct from fabric very
rapidly through a series of Bunsen gas flames in a gassing frame, in
order to burn off the projecting fibers and make the thread round and
smooth and also brighter. Only the better qualities of yarn are
gassed, such as that used for voiles, poplins, venetians, gabardines,
many Egyptian qualities, etc. There is a loss of weight in gassing,
which varies' about 5 to 8 per cent., so that if a 2/60's yarn is required
2/56's would be used. The gassed yarn is darker in shade afterwards,
but should not be scorched.
 Weaving
 Power loom
 At this point, the thread is woven. Depending on the
era, one person could manage anywhere from 3 to 100
machines. In the mid nineteenth century, four was the
standard number
 As time progressed new mechanisms were added that
stopped the loom any time something went wrong. The
mechanisms checked for such things as a broken warp
thread, broken weft thread, the shuttle going straight
across, and if the shuttle was empty. Forty of these
Northrop Looms or automatic looms could be operated
by one skilled worker
 The Lancashire Loom was the first semi-automatic loom.
Jacquard looms and Dobby looms are looms that have
sophisticated methods of shedding.. A Northrop Loom was fully
automatic and was mass produced between 1909 and the mid-
1960s. Modern looms run faster and do not use a shuttle:
 there are air jet looms, water jet looms and rapier looms.
 Break up of fabric cost;

 Total fabric cost: direct cost and indirect costs.

 Direct cost:
 Cost of raw material 66%.
 Cost of size and chemicals 4%.
 and
 worker wages and salaries 8% (also losses incurred due to shrinkage, wastage, grading, and also selling commissions).

 2. Indirect cost:
 Production cost comprising of running the machine, maintenance, power fuel, humidification and other utilities 8 %
 Interest on investment, loan, working capital, depreciation, etc. Above 7%,
 overheads and administrative expenses like traveling, telephone, couriers, legal issues, taxes comprising of 7%.

* About 65-70% cost of the garment is the cost of the fabric and hence it is very crucial to get the right cost of the fabric from fabric
manufacturers and suppliers.
Cont.

 Profit:
 10 - 20% depending on the order size.
 In some companies, 70% of the fabric cost will comprise of direct
cost, but in corporate selling only 40% cost of the fabric is direct
cost and 60% is overheads.
 CONCLUDING
FACTORS AFFECTING FABRIC COST:-
1) raw material cost
2)weaving cost
3)processing cost
a)Fiber processing
b) yarn processing
c) processing loss
4)yarn dyeing cost
5)packaging cost
6)grey checking cost
7)excise and other duties cost
8)Quality control & assurance
9)machine and land depreciation cost
10)man power cost
11) power and water cost
12)Profit
13) Land
14)Building
15)Machine
a) Weaving Machine
b) Warping Machine
c ) Grey Checking Machine
d ) All other Machines Involved During the process .
16) Loan.
Types of Fibre

 The cost of the fiber will depend on the type and the
quality of fiber. Various types of fiber would include
cotton, linen, wool, silk, rayon, nylon, polyester,
polyester cotton blend etc.
 Costing of yarns/fabric

 GSM: The amount of raw material used to make a fabric is reflected by the
weight or the GSM (gram/sq meter) of the fabric.

 For the same variety of the fabric as the GSM increases, the cost increases.

 However, when the yarn becomes very fine, the cost of spinning and weaving
supersedes the role of GSM. So even when the GSM is similar the cost of
fabric with finer yarns is more.
Continuous>>>>

 COUNT OF YARN: —the finer the yarn, the more expensive it can get.
 Combed yarns are more expensive than carded yarns because yarn realization is only about 70
percent due to the removal of short fibers, while it is almost 88 percent in the case of carded yarn.
 All finer counts above 40 are generally combed yarns.

 Method of spinning----open-end or ring spun.

 Open end yarns are cheaper as the cost of manufacturing is less. It is used for coarser
yarn count below 20s.

 The sizing cost also depends upon the count of the yarns. As the count becomes finer, the size
and chemical cost increases because better quality size and chemicals are required for better
strength.
 Direct System:
In direct system the count is used for the measurement of weight per unit length
of yarn where length is considered as constant.

Here whenever count increases, fineness decreases. (count↑ fineness↓)

In direct system of count commonly used some units of measurement are:-

 Tex (1 Tex = 1g/ 1000m)
 Grain (1 Grain = 1g/ 10,000m)
 Denier (1 Denier = 1g/ 9000m)
Continuous>>>>

 Indirect System:
In indirect system of measuring count t is used for the measurement of
length per unit weight of yarn where weight is considered to be constant.

When count increases, fineness increases. (count↑ fineness↑)

In indirect system of count there are commonly used some subsystems of

indirect system are:-
 English System (1 Ne = 1 Hank/ lb)
 Metric System (1 Nm = 1 Km/ kg)
 For cotton yarn, length of 1 Hank = 840 yards.
Process of yarn costing

 Carded Yarn  Combed Yarn

Shorter staple, courser and less combing process is normally used to
uniform produce smoother, finer, stronger and
more uniform yarns.
Fiber less expensive combing is commonly confined to high
hairy grade, long staple natural fibers

More protruding ends, and softer quality improvements are obtained at the
cost of additional expenditure on
machines
More Expensive
Cost factors during spinning process:

 SPINNING: Open-end spun yarns,

used for coarser yarn count below 20
are cheaper than ring spun yarns
because the cost of manufacturing is
less. .
 Bright yarns are more expensive than
dull yarns.
 textured yarns are more expensive
than flat yarns because of the
additional process cost.
Cost factors during weaving process

 WEAVING: The weaving cost is affected by  -

the beam size.
 If the beam is small in length the cost will be
more as beam gaiting and knotting will add to
the cost.
 Wastage of 2-3 percent in warping and
weaving and shrinkage of 1-1.5 percent from
loom to grey folding stage is included in the
weaving cost
Costing of fabric during dying process:

Cost Of Size:
WEIGHT: Dyeing lighter weight fabric reduces the cost of
dyeing.
* This principle applies for all yarn-dyed fabrics also.
 capacity of the machine is expressed in weight of the
material, so when dyeing lighter weight fabric, more length of
the material can be processed at the same time, reducing the
dyeing cost.
 Continues…

 SHADE: When considering the shade of the fabric, the lighter the shade the lower the cost.

 The amount of dye and time required in the processing are less.
 For example, dyeing pastel shades takes less time than it will take to dye black and
burgundy shades.
 for dyeing pastel shades if it takes 24 hours, it takes 36 hours for dyeing black shades and
burgundy colour
 The cost of dyeing also depends upon the class and quality of dyes used.
Continues…

Class of dye and quality:

Some dyes are more expensive than the other. Eg, Vat dyes are more expensive than
reactive dyes and better expertise is required for dyeing, so for the same shade the cost
of a fabric with vat dyes is more than a fabric dyed in reactive dyes.

The choice of dye depends on the buyer, the fastness properties and also on the shade
selected.
* some colors are more expensive than the others. For example, turquoise and reds are
more expensive.
 Some colors change their shades in different lights, this property is known as
Metamerism. Therefore, if the shades need only be matched in two or three different
lights then the cost is less, however, if the matching is required in all the six lights,
better quality dyes are required and the cost is more.
 Dying cost depends on LENGTH AND WIDTH of fabric:
 For industrial dyeing, a minimum of 2000 meter of fabric is accepted to be dyed.

 if the quantity of the fabric is more say 15,000 mt or 20,000 mt, then the processing
charges will be lowered (by 4 us$/mt. in Bangladesh)

 It is beneficial to go for wider width fabrics instead of longer fabrics.

 If the width of the fabric is doubled, the cost of processing is not. This is because the
overheads and cost of running the material are dependent on the length and not the
width.
 Eg, the cost of dyeing 40" width poplin is 25tk, but the cost of dyeing 120" width
fabric is 50tk.
Cont.

 MILL MADE OR POWER LOOM MADE: The quality of mill-made fabrics is better than
power loom made fabrics in terms of yarn quality; Therefore the cost of fabric is higher.

 At times it can be as high as 25%.. eg, the cost of 40s Poplin 92 x 88 can vary between
$0.65/mt and $ 1/mt. It depends on the type of loom whether power loom, rapier, air-jet,
dobby or jacquard and the weave and construction.

 The weaving cost is expressed as paisa /pick/inch/sq mt. The cost of weaving is different
for different weaves.

 There is no standardization in dobby and jacquard fabrics. For yarn dyed stripes and
checks in loom the efficiency is affected by the number of colors in the weft but mill-
made stripes and checks are made on Sulzer loom in which the production is not
affected by the number of colors in the warp or weft.
Different types of weave:

 Plain weave:
 Most simple and most common type
 Inexpensive to produce
 Flat, tight surface
Con.

 Satin Weave
 Smooth soft and luster
 Expensive
 Excellent drapabililty
Cont..

 Basket Weave
Inexpensive
Less durable
Production cost or cost of weaving process

It includes
machine running cost,
Maintenance cost,
labour cost,
power & fuel, etc.

The weaving cost is affected by the beam size, if the beam is small in
length, the cost will be more as beam gaiting and knotting will add to the
cost.
Wastage and shrinkage
Wastage of 2 - 3% in warping and weaving and shrinkage of Below is a Table showing
1 - 1.5% from loom to grey folding stage is included in the shrinkage of different fabrics:
weaving cost. About 92% of the fabric produced is sold as
fresh. Fabric Shrinkage%

The value loss is about 7% while running cotton material but Poplin, Sheeting 3%
is only 3% in using polyester yarn. Cotton Voile, cambric 5%
Polyyester/Viscose
4.5-5% blend
It is important to note that wastage and shrinkage are fiber-dyed
integral part of costing. Polyester viscose piece-
6% dyed
Generally a minimum shrinkage of 5 - 7% is acceptable. 100% grey polyester 20%
Below is a Table showing shrinkage of different fabrics:

Cost of the fabric = Cost of grey fabric + dyeing

charges + finishing charges + shrinkage + wastage.
Process Flow-Chart of Wet Processing Technology | Dyeing Flowchart
Grey Fabric Inspection
↓
Sewing or Stitching
↓
Singeing
↓
Desizing
↓
Scouring
↓
Bleaching
↓
Mercerizing
↓
Dyeing
↓
Printing
↓
Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Delivery
Flow Chart of Weaving

Yarn from spinning section

↓
Doubling and Twisting
↓
Winding
↓
Creeling
↓
Warping
↓
Sizing
↓
Winding on weavers beam
↓
Weaving
Process line of Ring Spinning
Flow Process chart of Jute Spinning
GSM of Fabric construction
Fabric
Price in tk Fabric name
214.815 100% cotton sheeting
4 (calico)
187.963 132.66 60×60/14×14

5 120.33 60×60/16×16 100% cotton sheeting

150.370

8 103.31 60×60/20×20 100% cotton sheeting

113.613

5 89.64 68×68/30×30 100% cotton sheeting

 GSM VS PRICE

140
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
0 50 100 150 200 250
GSM
Total cost of grey fabric
depends on:-
Gas cost Cost Analysis
Labor cost --
Maintenance cost
Building rent cost
Sizing cost
Transport cost
Electricity cost
Other overhead cost
(including depretiation)

Admin cost-
Etc.
Process Flow Chart for Knitting:
Yarn in package form
↓
Place the yarn package in the
creel
↓
Feeding the yarn
↓
Set the m/c as per design & GSM
↓
Knitting
↓
Withdraw the roll fabric and
weighting
↓
Roll marking
↓
Inspection
↓
Numbering
Flow Process Chart of Warp knitting process:
Flow Process Chart of Weft knitting process:
 Cost of fabric per kg is calculated and given in

Particulars Light colours Medium colours Dark colours

34's combed yarn Rs.135.00 Rs.135.00 Rs.135.00

Knitting charge Rs.8.00 Rs.8.00 Rs.8.00

Dyeing charge Rs.35.00 Rs.45.00 Rs.55.00

Compacting charge Rs.6.00 Rs.6.00 Rs.6.00

Fabric wastage @ 5% Rs.9.20 Rs.9.70 Rs.10.70

Fabric cost per kg Rs.193.20 Rs.203.70 Rs.224.70

Fabric consumption per

197 gms 197 gms 197 gms
garment

Fabric cost per garment Rs.38.06 Rs.40.13 Rs.44.27

Cost information adopted
from a book written by M.A
Razzaque on garment
merchandising Some of the
fabric prices are mentioned
as follows-
Your