Ch-11

Cooling Systems Testing

Cooling System Components
 Cooling System Services
 With the many components that a cooling system has, it is important to have
all of them checked out for proper operation. Some of the cooling systems
services that include:
 Coolant Testing
 Radiator Inspection
 Radiator Fan Service
 Pressure Cap and Reserve Tank Inspection and Service
 Water Pump Repair and Maintenance
 Thermostat Inspection and Replacement
 Head and Intake Manifold Gasket Inspection and Replacement
 Heater Core Inspection
 Cooling System Hose Inspection and Replacement
 To ensure that your vehicle operates at the correct temperature, it is critical
that coolant, or antifreeze be checked on a regular basis.
 Cooling System Visual Inspection
 The cooling system experts can perform a visual inspection of
your cooling system to spot any potential problems. We will
inspect include:
o Inspection of All Cooling System Components Including Belts
and Hoses.
o A Radiator Pressure Cap Inspection.
o A Thermostat Inspection to Ensure Proper Opening and
Closing.
o A Pressure Test to Look for External Leaks Including the
Radiator, Water Pump, Coolant Passages, Hoses, and Heater
Core.
o An Internal Leak Inspection to Check for Combustion Gas
Leakage Into the Cooling System.
o Inspection of Engine Fan for Proper Operation.
o Inspection of the Coolant to Determine its Effectiveness.
 Radiator Pressure Cap Test
 A radiator pressure cap is designed to maintain pressure in
the cooling system at a certain maximum pressure.
o If the cooling system exceeds that pressure, a valve in the
cap opens to bleed the excessive pressure into the reserve
tank. Once the engine has cooled off, a negative pressure
begins to develop in the cooling system. When this
happens, a second valve in the cap allows the coolant to be
siphoned back into the radiator from the reserve tank.
o If the cap should fail, the engine can easily overheat. A
pressure test of the radiator cap is a quick way to tell if the
cap is doing its job. It should be able to hold its rated
pressure for two minutes. Since radiator caps are quite
inexpensive, I would recommend replacing it every 3 years
or 36,000 miles, just for added insurance.
 Thermostat Check for Proper Opening and Closing

 This step is only necessary if you are having problems with the
cooling system. A thermostat is designed to open at a certain
coolant temperature.
o To test a thermostat while it is still in the engine, start the engine and
let it come to normal operating temperature (do not let it overheat).
 If it takes an unusually long time for the engine to warm up or for the heater
to begin delivering hot air, the thermostat may be stuck in the open position.
 If you are having problems and suspect the thermostat, remove it
and place it in a pot of water. Bring the water to a boil and watch
the thermostat. You should see it open when the water reaches a
boil.
o Most thermostats open at about 195 degrees Fahrenheit.
o An oven thermometer in the water should confirm that the
thermostat is working properly.
 Pressure Test to Identify any External Leaks

 Pressure testing the cooling system is a simple

process to determine where a leak is located.
o This test is only performed after the cooling
system has cooled sufficiently to allow you to
safely remove the pressure cap.
o Once you are sure that the cooling system is
full of coolant, a cooling system pressure
tester is attached in place of the radiator cap.
o The tester is than pumped to build up
pressure in the system.
There is a gauge on the tester indicating
how much pressure is being pumped. You
should pump it to the pressure indicated
on the pressure cap or to manufacturer's
specs.
Pressure Test to Identify any External Leaks

o Once pressure is applied, you can begin to look for leaks.

o Also watch the gauge on the tester to see if it loses pressure.
If the pressure drops more than a couple of pounds in
two minutes, there is likely a leak somewhere that may be
hidden. It is not always easy to see where a leak is
originating from. It is best to have the vehicle up on a lift
so you can look over everything with a shop light or
flashlight.
If the heater core in leaking, it may not be visible since
the core is enclosed and not visible without major
disassembly, but one sure sign is the unmistakable odor
of antifreeze inside the car.
You may also notice the windshield steaming up with an
oily residue.
 Internal Leak Test
 If you are losing coolant, but there are no signs of leaks,
you could have a blown head gasket.
o The best way to test for this problem is with a combustion leak
test on the radiator. This is accomplished using a block
tester. This is a kit that performs a chemical test on the vapors
in the radiator.
 Blue tester fluid is added to the plastic container on the tester. If the
fluid turns yellow during the test, then exhaust gasses are present in
the radiator.
 The most common causes for exhaust gasses to be present
in the radiator is a blown head gasket.
o Replacing a bad head gasket requires a major disassembly of the
engine and can be quite expensive.
o Other causes include a cracked head or a cracked block, both
are even more undesirable than having to replace a head gasket.
 When a Head Gasket goes Bad
 The process of replacing a head gasket begins with completely
draining the coolant from the engine.
o The top part of the engine is then disassembled along with much
of the front of the engine in order to gain access to the cylinder
heads.
The head or heads are then removed and a thorough
inspection for additional damage is done.
 In many engines, coolant also passes between the heads and
the intake manifold. There are also gaskets for the intake
manifold to keep the coolant from leaking out at that point.
o Replacing an intake manifold gasket is a much easier job than a
head gasket, but can still take a couple of hours or more for that
job.
 Engine Fan Test
 The radiator cooling fan is an important part of the cooling system
operation. While a fan is not really needed while a vehicle is
traveling down the highway, it is extremely important when driving
slowly or stopped with the engine running.
 If you notice that the engine temperature begins rising soon after
the vehicle comes to a stop, the first thing to check is fan
operation.
o If the fan is not turning when the engine is hot, a simple test is to turn
the AC on. If the fan begins to work, suspect the temperature sensor
in the fan circuit (you will need a wiring diagram for your vehicle to
find it).
 In order to test the fan motor itself, unplug the two wire connector to the fan
and connect a 12 volt source to one terminal and ground the other. (it doesn't
matter which is which for this test) If the fan motor begins to turn, the motor
is good. If it doesn't turn, the motor is bad and must be replaced.
Cooling System Power Flush and Refill
 While you can replace old coolant by draining it out and
replacing it with fresh coolant, the best way to properly
maintain your cooling system is to have the system power
flushed.
o Power flushing will remove all the old coolant and pull out any
sediment and scale along with it.
 Power flushing requires a special machine that many auto
repair shops have for the purpose.
o The procedure requires that the thermostat is removed, the
lower radiator hose is disconnected, and the flush machine is
connected in line. The lower hose is connected to the machine
and the other hose from the machine is connected to the
radiator where the lower hose was disconnected from.
 How to Test a Radiator Cap
 One of the most overlooked causes of overheating in a vehicle
is the radiator cap.
o The radiator cap holds pressure on the cooling system to
raise the boiling point of the coolant. Every one pound of
pressure present in the system raises the boiling point of
the coolant three degrees.
Typical late model radiator caps raise the boiling point
of the coolant to around 260 degrees F. Normal
operating temperatures of 210 to 220 degrees F can
cause overheating without the pressure supplied by the
cap.
 How to Test a Radiator Cap

Instructions
1. Allow the system to cool and remove the cap. Inspect the seal for
damage. Heat cycling of the seal hardens the rubber, and split seals are a
common source of leaks.
o Damaged seals require replacement of the radiator cap.
o Other damage, such as bent or broken recovery valves (the recovery valve is
a disc shaped piece in the center of the cap.) and rusted springs require
replacement of the cap
2. Install the cap onto the radiator cap adapter supplied with the tester set.
o This adapter looks like a radiator filler neck on both ends.
o Install the cap on one end, and attach the other end of the adapter to the
pressure tester. There are several different sizes and shapes of radiator cap,
and several sizes and shapes of adaptors.
o Select the adapter that is the same shape as the radiator filler neck on your
specific vehicle.
 How to Test a Radiator Cap
Instructions
3. Pump the pressure tester to the pressure
stamped on the radiator cap.
o If the pressure releases the pressure before
reaching the correct pressure, or the cap does
not hold pressure, the cap is faulty.
o Remove the cap from the adapter, and reinstall it
on the adapter.
o Repeat the test to verify that the cap is faulty.
How to Test a Cooling System Thermostat

One of the most common reasons a car or truck

engine overheats is a faulty thermostat. The
thermostat closes when the engine is cold and opens
as the engine warms up to allow the coolant to
circulate through the engine.
Follow these steps to test a cooling system
thermostat.
 How to Test a Cooling System
Thermostat
Instructions
1. Check the Thermostat While the Engine is Running
i. Locate the engine's thermostat, normally at the
front of the engine, by tracing the water hoses from
the radiator to the engine.
o One hose goes from the radiator into the thermostat
housing on one side, and the other hose goes out of the
housing back to the radiator on the other side.
ii. Open the radiator cap and verify that the radiator is
full. Replace the radiator cap and start the engine.
 How to Test a Cooling System
Thermostat
Instructions
1. Check the Thermostat While the Engine is Running
iii. Turn the vehicle's heater on high. Allow the engine to
warm up for a few minutes. Be careful not to let the
engine overheat.
iv. Feel each of the hoses leading to and from the thermostat
housing.
o If both hoses are hot and the heater is pushing out hot air, the
thermostat is functioning properly.
o If not, the thermostat may be stuck, and you'll need to remove the
thermostat from the engine to perform the next test.
 How to Test a Cooling System
Thermostat
Instructions
2. Remove and Test the Thermostat
v. Turn off the engine and allow the engine to cool.
vi. Remove the bolts holding the thermostat cap in
place.
vii. Lift off the housing cap to expose the thermostat.
o Pull the thermostat out of the housing with your fingers.
Take careful note of which way it sits so that you can reinstall
it or its replacement in the same position.
 How to Test a Cooling System
Thermostat
Instructions
2. Remove and Test the Thermostat
viii. Put the thermostat in a pan of water on the stove,
and turn the burner on high.
ix. Monitor the water temperature with an oven
thermometer.
o The thermostat should open at about 195 degrees F if it is
functioning properly.
x. Replace a faulty thermostat.
o Reinstall it if it opens and closes properly, and look for
another problem in the cooling system.
 Testing a Thermostat
Procedure
First, you must get the thermostat out of the car.
It's pretty plain to see when your thermostat is
"stuck open".
o When it's stuck open, the water flows through it all the
time, and doesn't stay in the engine long enough to
heat up.
One symptom of a stuck-open thermostat is the heater
delivering cool air, but this can be caused by other things.
Visibly, you'll see a gap between the thermostat frame and the
"pellet" even when the thermostat is cold (see the pictures of
the hot thermostat below). If so, this is a faulty thermostat.
 Testing a Thermostat
Procedure
o A "stuck closed" thermostat is considerably less obvious.
The thermostat will be closed at room temperature but
won't open at the right operating temperature either.
This can cause the fluid in the radiator to remain pretty
cool while the water inside the engine can't escape.
– This can lead to overheated engines, warped heads,
cracked blocks, blown head gaskets and other
serious problems. Usually, the temperature guage
will quickly rise to indicate a problem before it gets
too serious.
 In any case, replace the thermostat with a new one if it's
faulty.
 Testing the Thermostat
Procedure
1) Boil some water in the microwave.
o Make sure it's deep enough to cover the whole thermostat.
o Remove from the microwave with a hot pad. Be very careful, water
can boil over when you pull it out of the microwave even if it seems
calm before you remove it. We don't want people hurting
themselves! NEVER, EVER heat the water with any metal
instruments, tools, or parts in it.
 Testing the Thermostat

Procedure
2) Test the temperature of the
water. It should be over 200
degrees, simultaneously
observe the thermostat valve.
 Testing the Thermostat

Procedure
3) With salad tongs, gently
place the thermostat into
the water, being careful
not to splash the hot
water. The thermostat
should start to open after a
few seconds
 Testing the Thermostat

Procedure
4) Insert the thermometer again
and watch the temperature
and the thermostat gap at the
same time. As the
temperature falls closer to
the "operating temp" of the
thermostat, the gap will get
smaller.
 Testing the Thermostat

Procedure
5) Take note of the temperature at which
the gap closes (to the naked eye)
completely. If this process is taking too
long, you can trickle warm water into the
container VERY slowly, waiting a few
seconds between adding dashes of
warm water. This will cool the
thermostat's bath down a little quicker.
This can make the test inaccurate
though.
 Flushing the System
The original additives in antifreeze fight rust and
corrosion breakdown and are ineffective after 1 to 2
years.
o This is because of the continual exposure to the heat
in the cooling system. After the additives break down,
rust begins to form rapidly. Therefore, a rust-colored
antifreeze is an indication that the cooling-system
service is required.
The cooling system should be cleaned periodically to
remove rust, scale, grease, oil, and any acids formed by
exhaust-gas leakage into the coolant.
 Flushing the System
Flushing (cleaning) of a cooling system should be done
based on the manufacturer’s recommendations or when
rust and other contaminants are found in the system.
o Flushing involves running water or a cleaning chemical
through the cooling system to wash out contaminants.
Rust is very harmful to the cooling system because it
causes premature water pump wear and can collect
and clog the radiator or heater core tubes.
o There are three methods of flushing
i. fast flushing,
ii. reverse flushing, and
iii. chemical flushing
 Flushing the System
Fast flushing
o is a common method of cleaning a cooling system
because the thermostat does not have to be removed
from the engine.
o A water hose is connected to a heated hose fitting.
o The radiator cap is removed and the petcock is
opened.
o When the water hose is ON and water flows through
the system, loose rust and scale are removed.
 Flushing the System
Reverse flushing of a radiator
o requires a special flushing gun device that is connected to
the radiator outlet tank by a piece of hose (fig. below).
o Another hose is attached to the inlet tank, so the water and
debris can be directed to the floor drains.
o Compressed air, under low pressure, is used to force water
through the radiator core backwards.
o The air pressure is used intermittently to loosen scale and
sediment.
 Excessive air pressure should be avoided to prevent damage to
the radiator. Starting and stopping the water flow produces a
fluctuation in pressure and tends to loosen all foreign matter
clinging to the passages in the radiator core.
 Flushing the System
Reverse flushing can also be used on the engine block and
head (fig. below)
o First, remove the thermostat and disconnect the upper radiator
hose.
o Then disconnect the lower radiator hose at the water pump.
o Insert the flushing equipment in the upper radiator hose.
 Reverse flush the system by sending water and air through
the water jackets and coolant passages.
o Following the flushing, replace the thermostat and hoses so the
system can be refilled.
 When reverse flushing equipment is not available, you can
still reverse flush the system with a garden hose.
o This is often effective following the use of a chemical cleaner.
 Flushing the System
Chemical flushing
o is needed when a scale buildup in the system is causing
engine overheating.
o Add the chemical cleaner to the coolant.
o Run the engine at fast idle for about 20 minutes. Wait for
the engine to cool.
o Then drain out the coolant and cleaner solution.
Using a garden hose, flush out the loosened rust and
scale.
Continue to flush until the water runs clear.
Flushing the System