Buffing Machine

KENNY RAMIS
6515010013
Hello world!
I am Kenny Ramis
You can find me at
e-mail :kennyramis@gmail.com
line :kennyramis
1
INTRODUCTION TO BUFFING

Let’s start with the

first set of slides
"Buffing" is the
process used to
shine metal, wood,
or composites using
a cloth wheel
impregnated with
cutting compounds or
rouges. The cloth
buff "holds" or
"carries" the
compound, while the
compound does the
cutting.
Introduction

The industry refers to "polishing" as the process, which

uses abrasive belt finishing.

Buffing generally requires two operations, a cut buff and a

finish buff. Even the cut buff, which is the coarsest
buffing operation, is too fine for removal of pits, course
abrasive polishing lines, or deep scratches. This is why
surface preparation prior to buffing is critical to a high
luster, final finish.

Excellent pre-buff surface preparation starts with using

the finest abrasive belt that production will allow. It is
from this point that removal of the original scratch line needs to be
accomplished to achieve the final buff finish.

The original "scratch" or polish is followed by one or two additional

polishing steps. Cross polishing the abrasive lines if possible and buff
off of approximately 400 grit or finer abrasive on metals.

The cut buff will remove the final polishing lines, but may not be as
bright as required. The finishing buff will produce the luster.
The Difference Between “Polishing” and
“Buffing”
Polishing a piece of metal removes a moderate amount of
metal from the piece, using coarse to medium abrasives in stages.
The piece will have a “brushed” look and you will not be able to
see any reflections in it. Polishing removes scratches and minor
surface imperfections which are too deep for buffing compounds to
remove efficiently. If you run your fingernail over a scratch and
it gets caught, then the piece should be polished before buffing.
The key to success in polishing is to remove just enough material
to make the surface even and no more.
Buffing removes very small surface irregularities and
makes the surface almost perfectly smooth by removing a very small
amount of metal. Just like polishing, buffing is done in stages
from coarse to fine. Buffing compound grits are so fine that you
might not be able to tell the difference between compounds by
rubbing some between your fingers. Their difference in
performance, however, is significant.
What Are “Cutting” and “Coloring” Compounds?

“Cutting” compounds are coarse and will remove a fair

amount of material quickly. The first stages of buffing
could be referred to as the “cutting” stages.

“Coloring” compounds are extremely fine and result in the

mirror-like shine which is the result of an excellently
done buffing project. The final stage of buffing could be
referred to as the “coloring” stage.
 BIG CONCEPT
The objective of buffing and polishing is to make a rough surface
into a smooth one and, of course, each work piece will be in a
different condition, so will need different procedures. Imagine
the surface magnified thousands of times, it will look like jagged
mountains and valleys. By repeated abrasion, you are going to wear
down those mountains until they are old, soft, rolling hills! Then
they will not dissipate the light, but reflect it. It is the
reflection that makes the buffed part appear shiny.
2
BUFFING WHEELS AND TYPES
Overview

The buffing wheel is the actual carrier of the compound or rouge. It becomes the
transferring agent between the abrasive compound, and the work piece.

The construction of the buff becomes important to the desired performance; therefore it
is important to match the construction of the buff to the work piece.

A harder buff is not as flexible and is more aggressive. It is typically used on flat
surfaces. A softer buff is more conformable and less aggressive which makes it ideal for
work pieces with more complex shape.

The Sisal and Airway ventilated buffs can be treated at the manufacturer by dipping the
cloth or sisal in water, or solvent based resins. There are various degrees of firmness,
each color-coded by the individual manufacturers. The treatments add stiffness,
strength, and lubrication to the buff. Usually the stiffer buffs will cut faster. The
stiff treatments are used on flat surfaces where little flexing is required. The softer
treatments are used for reaching into deeper areas and around complex shapes.

In certain applications, many buffs can cut, shape, blend, debur, and finish in one
operation with automatic machines. The manual buffing operations will tend to be a cut
buff, followed with a finish buff.

There are many types of cut and finish buffs being produced today, using various cloths
or sisal and a variety of stitching and construction. We will cover the most commonly
used buffs and their applications.
Types of Cut and Finish Buffs

CUT BUFFS FINISH BUFFS

• Spiral Sewn • Loose Buffs

• Set Up Wheels • Concentric Sewn

• Sisals • Airway

• Flannel
• Treated Airways
Spiral Sewn

Made of various cloths or denim

materials, this buff is sewn in
different thicknesses, 1/4" and 3/8"
being the most common. These buffs can
be stacked side by side if more face
width is desired.

The stitching starts from the center arbor hole and spirals
to the O.D. The spacing between the stitching can be
produced in 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, or 3/8" increments. The tighter
they are sewn, the stiffer the buff, and usually a stiffer
buff will cut faster.

The spiral sewn buff is a moderate cut buff, used commonly

as a standard cut buff for all metals and composites.
Set-Up Wheels

Made up by stacking spiral sewn buffs, which have

been glued together and balanced. Canvas covers are
often glued to the sides. The wheels are commonly
available from 1/2" through 4" face widths.

Set-up wheels can be used with grey or tripoli cutting compounds,

but is mainly used with Aluminum Oxide or Turkish Emery grits.

When used with various grits of Aluminum Oxide glued to the face
of the buff, it becomes the coarsest cut buff application. These
wheels are used to grind steel and stainless steel surfaces.

The set up wheel, when used with any varied grits of Turkish Emery
can be used as a grease wheel. For example, using grease and 180
grit emery on steel bumpers will give a good finish, which can
then be nickel leveled and chrome plated.
Sisals

These buffs are made of a hard, cellular

fiber material with high strength. It is
formed into a slender cord that constructs
the buff. The Sisal material has natural
cutting properties. There are various
stiffening treatments that will vary in color
and hardness, as well as untreated sisal and cloth
combinations.

Sisal buffs will remove orange peel and grit lines from
abrasive belts or Set-up wheels. They are used for
finishing Drawn, Roll Formed, and Stamped metals. When a
sisal is combined with cloth, they can cut and finish
stampings in one operation prior to pre- plating.
Spiral Sewn Sisals:
Spiral sewn buffs are
constructed with sewing
from the arbor hole
spiraling outward toward
the outside of the buff.
The standard distance
between sewings are
available in 1/16, 1/8, 3/8
and most common, 1/4". The
buff will stiffen and cut
faster as the sewings
tighten. The Spiral Sewn
Sisal is a very aggressive
cut buff used on all
metals.
Bias Spiral Sewn Sisals:
This is the same
construction as the
previous spiral sewn buff,
with the difference being
that the fabric is cut on a
bias to minimize raveling.
This helps the buff to last
longer as well as providing
better cut and color. They
are cooler running, thus
more burn resistant. The
buff is constructed with a
steel center and is mainly
used on automated buffing
equipment.
Open Faced Sisals:
The same information
applies as with the Spiral
sewn sisal, but this buff
is constructed with a wavy,
flexible open face. It
holds compound better than
the spiral sewn and allows
flexibility to flow over a
work piece and approach
difficult areas.
Finger Sisals:
This buff is also
constructed of sisal cords
wrapped with cloth. It
comes in various
treatments. When grouped
with multiple buffs, the
Finger buff contours well.
The fingers can grab parts
easier than other buff
constructions, therefore
should be used by
experienced buffers. This
buff is the most aggressive
cut sisal buff.
Airway Ventilated Buff

Most widely used production cut buff, this buff is

designed to flow air from the center and force it
through the buff to cool the work piece. The
Airway buff is made with a steel center and must
be used with a specific ventilated flange for
airflow to prevent delamination from the steel
center.

The Airway buff comes in two different mill treatments; a white firm and a
yellow maze. These mill treatment buffs are good cutting buffs for brass,
copper, and aluminum. The Airway buff can also be treated with various
manufactures colors that make them stiffer than the mill treatments. These
stiffer treatments are good cut buffs for harder and tougher metals such as
stainless steel and steel.

This buff is constructed with different densities (packs) 2, 4, 6, and 8

with the 2 and 4 being the most popular. The higher the density, the more
cloth is used in the buff, the more flex and the longer the life of the
buff. The Airway buff is also produced with different plys ranging from 12
to 20 with 16 being the most common. The ply will determine the thickness
(or face width). The Airway is also available with 3", 5" and 7" center. The
larger the center, the less material and therefore the less expensive the
buff will be.
Finishing Buffs

Concentric Sewn Buffs:

This buff is constructed of
Loose Full Disc Buffs:
individual cloth sheets, sewn
This buff is constructed of
concentrically from the center
individual cloth sheets, sewn once
arbor hole in 1" spacing increments
around the arbor hole. Each cloth
completely around the buff. It is
sheet is considered one ply.
commonly produced in approx. 1"
Sixteen to twenty ply is fairly
thickness and because of the way it
standard. It may be necessary to
is sewn; it is a firmer finishing
stack buffs together when
buff than the loose buff. As the
additional width is required. The
buff wears down to the seam line,
buff cloth comes in two standard
it is common practice to cut the
mill weaves of 6060 & 8080. The
stitching and work the buff to the
8080 with a higher thread count
next seam line. This buff is very
produces a better finish. The loose
popular in the jewelry finishing
buff lacks firmness, but is a good
industry. Because of the width and
standard finishing buff on all
firmness it is often requested over
metals and plastic.
the loose buff and produces a good
finish on all metals and
composites.
Finishing Buffs
Airway Buffs:
This buff is the most popular
production finishing buff. It
runs cooler because of the
airflow from the center of the
buff to the work piece. It is
firmer and holds compound well.
The standard finish buff is the
non-treated mill cloth. The
Airway buff is an excellent
choice for all finishes.
Flannel Buffs:
This buff can be constructed in
the form of a loose, concentric
sewn, or airway buff. It is the
softest finishing buff, leaving
fewer scratches than any other
type of buffing material. The
flannel material undergoes a
"picking" operation at the
mill, which pulls up the nap,
giving it the softness. The
Canton flannel is softened on
both sides and is used in gold
and silver jewelry buffing. The
Domet flannel is softer on one
side only and is used on fine
brass and wood, such as guitar
bodies.
3
PREPARING PIECES
Dent Removal

In most cases it is possible to restore a dented piece of

stainless or aluminum trim to its original condition. By
using Trim Hammer and Anvil Set for dent removal. The Trim
Hammer is designed to access most areas. It may however, be
necessary to custom grind a bolt head to access dented
areas under a flange. Start at the outside of the dent and
work your way around the outside of the dent and gradually
inward in a circular pattern. This will shrink the metal
back to its original shape. If you work from the inside of
the dent outward, you will stretch the metal further and
possibly ruin the piece. It is better to make several light
passes and slowly work the piece back into shape than to
try to remove the dent with a few heavy blows.
Filing

Next use a fine file (such as an ignition point file) to

“knock down” any high spots, but be careful not to remove
too much material from the hammered area. Inspect your work
to make sure it is as smooth as possible and, if necessary,
use the trim hammer to bring up any low spots, then repeat
the filing to remove any high spots. Finally, sand/polish
the surface using one of the methods detailed in the next
section.
Sanding/Polishing (hand, expander wheel, and
greaseless compounds)
Once the piece is as even as you can make it using the trim
hammer and file, sand the area with 220 grit sandpaper to
remove the file marks (320-600 grit for hard metals). Soft
metals like aluminum will require little work, while harder
metals such as stainless steel will take more time. In some
cases hand sanding may be all that is needed. To speed your
work consider using an expander wheel, greaseless compounds
and/or abrasive rolls detailed in the following sections
4
CHOOSING THE RIGHT WHEEL
& COMPOUND FOR THE JOB
CHOOSING THE RIGHT WHEEL & COMPOUND FOR THE JOB

There are different types of wheels and these have

different effects on the compound they are used with. For
example, the SISAL wheel is a course 'rope like' fiber,
which frays out to make a sort of brush. These fibers have
a very beneficial effect on scratched and rougher surfaces,
almost stroking them smooth. When used with a course
'EMERY' compound, they 'cut' the metal down very rapidly.
You could use this compound on a SPIRAL SEWN wheel and it
would work, but the job would take much longer because the
softer SPIRAL SEWN wheel is not going to thrash the metal
so aggressively.
As you progress through the buffing compounds, you
will change your buffing wheel, ending up using the softest
polishing wheel, the CANTON FLANNEL with the least abrasive
BLUE or RED compound which only polishes, it has no cutting
action.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT WHEEL & COMPOUND FOR THE
JOB(cont’d)
So, depending on the job in hand, you will determine
which abrasive compound and wheel you are going to use
first, then step down through the stages until YOU are
satisfied with the results. Compounds are made from a
mixture of fine abrasive fillers and a sort of greasy wax.
The compound is melted, by friction heat, as the bar is
pressed to the revolving wheel. This applies a thin layer
of abrasive, 'glued' onto the cloth wheel, making it
similar to an emery paper, only much faster!
Do not apply the compound after the workpiece, or on its
own. This wastes material and is much less efficient.
By applying the material before the workpiece, you
actually use the workpiece to force the compound into the
buff. This is much less wasteful, more efficient and will
actually speed up your buffing times.
Apply small quantities of compound, by approx. 1/2 -
1 second applications to the wheel.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT WHEEL & COMPOUND FOR THE JOB
(cont’d)
When buffing plastics, it is preferable to use a loose cotton wheel and blue
compound, but at a slower rate than normal. An old washing machine motor
(1/8hp @ 1800 rpm) is ideal as the slower rpm lessens the chance of burning
or melting the plastic.

Motor
4" 6” 8” 10”
Size

1”
1/6 hp 0.5” - -

1/4 hp 1.5” 1” 0.5” -

1/3 hp 2.5” 2” 1” -

1/2 hp 3” 2.5” 2” 1”

3/4 hp 4.5” 3.5” 2.5” 2”

CHOOSING THE RIGHT WHEEL & COMPOUND FOR THE JOB
(cont’d)
Use the chart below to make your selection. The condition
of the piece on which you are working will determine
whether or not all three buffing steps will be necessary. A
felt bob, facer, mushroom, goblet, or mini buff can be
substituted as necessary to buff deeply recessed areas.
There are two basic buffing motions you
should use.

1. CUT MOTION gives you:

SMOOTH SURFACE, SEMI-BRIGHT & UNIFORM

The workpiece should be moved AGAINST the direction of the

wheel, using a MEDIUM to HARD pressure.

2. COLOR MOTION gives you:

BRIGHT, SHINY & CLEAN SURFACE

The workpiece should be moved TOWARD the direction of the

wheel, using a MEDIUM to LIGHT pressure.
5
MOUNTING AND APPLYING TO
THE BUFFING WHELL
Mounting the Buffing Wheel

Attach the buffing wheel to the buffing

motor spindle, making sure that it is
mounted securely between the flange
washers. When mounted properly, the top
of the wheel should spin toward you and
down when the buffing motor is running.
NOTE: Wheel stitching orientation is of
no consequence to wheel performance or
durability.
Applying Compound to the Buffing Wheel

With the buffing wheel attached and the

motor running, gently touch the
appropriate tube of compound to the
face of the wheel for one to two
seconds. Apply the compound slightly
below the centerline of the wheel. (See
illustration at right)
6
WORKING THE PIECE
Since much buffing is done with stainless steel, we will
use that as an example. Keep in mind that the condition of
the piece on which you are working will determine the
wheel/compound combinations and steps necessary.

One of the keys to successful buffing is to let the wheel

do the work. Use only light pressure against the wheel and
always keep the piece moving.

Before you begin, double check the surface of the piece to

ensure that there are no deep scratches in the surface. If
you can catch your fingernail in the scratch, you will have
to file and sand it out before you begin buffing.

First, mount a treated or untreated Sisal Wheel and load it

with Emery Compound. Emery is fairly coarse and will remove
fine scratches, leaving a uniform finish. NOTE: The treated
Sisal Wheel will produce faster results.
With the buffing motor off, make practice runs with your
piece to determine your pattern. Be aware of any corners,
sharp edges, or bolt holes that the wheel may catch. Work
on one small area at a time

Begin in one area and work the part across the buff
horizontally. Use light pressure and move down 1/4" after
each pass until you have finished. Inspect your work
frequently. When you have finished that section, move on to
the next one, reapplying compound as necessary

After you have buffed the entire piece, clean it thoroughly

with PRE (#10041Z), Metal Wash (#10120), lacquer thinner,
or dish washing detergent and let it cool before
continuing. Make sure all traces of the compound you were
just using are wiped from the piece before continuing.
Otherwise you will contaminate the next wheel and
compromise your results.
After you have buffed the entire piece, clean
it thoroughly with PRE, Metal Wash, lacquer
thinner, or dish washing detergent and let it
cool before continuing. Make sure all traces
of the compound you were just using are wiped
from the piece before continuing. Otherwise
you will contaminate the next wheel and
compromise your results.
7
Surface Speed
Surface Speed

Surface speed, measured in feet per minute is the rate at

which a buff or wheel moves over a work piece. Surface
speed will determine the work rate speed, pressure
required, heat build up, and the actual finish that will be
produced.

The surface speed chart below indicates how wheel diameter

and RPM affects the surface speed in feet per minute. To
calculate; surface foot per minute = circumference X RPM.
To determine circumference; circumference = (D) where D
represents the diameter of the buff wheel.
 For best results your wheel should maintain a surface
speed of between 3600 & 7500 Surface Feet Per Minute. (SFPM). The
higher your speed, the better and quicker your results. Formula
for calculating surface speed of wheel in SFPM.

SFPM = 1/4 x diameter of Wheel x RPM (revs of spindle per min.)

Therefore an 8" wheel @ 3600 RPM =2 x 3600 = 7200SFPM.
Spindle speeds can be increased by a step pulley on a motor shaft.

For the workshop where only the occasional piece of work

needs to be buffed, an economic alternative to purchasing a
special machine is to simply adapt a bench grinder. Whilst this
does not have the extended shaft, it can still do a formidable
job.
All the guards need to be taken off and the grinder
mounted on the edge of a workbench. This will allow access to the
wheel from many angles. Alternatively, a small used washing
machine motor can be used. With access to a lathe, a simple
pointed taper can be made to fit over the shaft. Then the buffing
wheels can be rammed on to the point. On smaller pieces, an
electric drill with one of our shank mounted buffs will do an
excellent job.
Below is surface speed recommendations for
various buffing operations:
Cut Down Buffing Satin Finishing Color Buffing (Bright
Finish)
Aluminum Buffs Spiral Sewed, Ventilated Spiral Sewed, String Loose, Concentric
Wheel
Compound Greaseless, Grey, Green or White Rouge
s S.F.M Tripoli 6000 to 9000 Greaseless 3000 to 6000 to 7000 S.F.M
S.F.M 5000 S.F.M
Brass Buffs Spiral Sewed, Ventilated Spiral Sewed, String Loose, Concentric
Wheel, Ventilated, Sewed,Low Density
Compound Greaseless, Grey, Loose Greaseless Ventilated Green or
s S.F.M Tripoli 6000 to 9000 3000 to 5000 S.F.M Red Rouge 6000 to
S.F.M 9000 S.F.M
Copper Buffs Spiral Sewed, Ventilated Spiral Sewed, String Loose, Concentric
Wheel, Ventilated, Sewed, Low Density
Compound Greaseless, Grey, Loose Greaseless Ventilated Green or
s S.F.M Tripoli 5500 to 7500 4500 to 6000 S.F.M White Rouge 5500 to
S.F.M 7500 S.F.M
Steel & Buffs Sisals, Spiral Sewed, Spiral Sewed, String Loose, Concentric
Stainless Ventilated Greaseless, Wheel, Ventilated Sewed, Low Density
Steel Compound Grey 8000 to 9000 Greaseless 4500 to Ventilated Green
s S.F.M S.F.M 6000 S.F.M Rouge 7000 to 9000
S.F.M
As you reach surface speed with a given sized buff, a
certain amount of horsepower is required. The larger the
buff diameter and work piece, the more horse power
required. For example, using a twelve inch buff on a 7"
x 10" work piece will require 1 to 1-1/2 HP. A 16" buff
on a larger work piece will require 2 to 5 HP. The
buffer will stall easily if the proper amount of
horsepower is not used. If the buff diameter and
horsepower match up, but the surface speed is not high
enough for a given sized part, the desired finish may
not be reached and the job will take significantly
longer.
8
FINISHING
Inspect Your Progress

Check your progress from time-to-time while

buffing. Inspect the piece by looking at the
reflection of a single light bulb in the surface.
If the reflection is irregular as you move the
piece, the surface is uneven and will not buff out.
Try to keep your buffing as smooth and even as
possible. Remember: let the wheel do the work.
If you notice medium scratches in the piece, but your
fingernail does not catch on them, mark those areas and repeat the
Sisal/Emery process. Do not attempt to buff them out with the
Stainless Compound.
If you notice scratches which are deep enough for your
fingernail to catch, then you will need to re-polish the piece
(See page 4) and repeat the buffing process from the start.
When you have finished the entire piece, let it cool,
clean it, and put the Spiral Wheel and Stainless Compound in a
sealable plastic bag.
Final Buffing or “Coloring”

Next mount the loose section wheel and apply White

Rouge Compound to the wheel. Initially work a small area at
a time as done in previous steps. Again change your angle
of attack by 90° so you can easily see when the Stainless
Steel Compound scratches have been removed. Then make a
light pass with the direction of wheel rotation over the
longest length of the piece. Now you will see what the
final piece will look like. The Loose Section Buff and
White Rouge Compound has little cutting ability, but serves
mostly to bring out the “color” of the metal.
9
SAFETY
SAFETY FIRST
There are two distinct areas on a
buffing wheel - THE UNSAFE AREA
which is rotating towards the
workpiece.

THE SAFE AREA which is rotating away from the workpiece.

The division of these two areas is marked with the dotted line on
the above drawings. The workpiece must only be applied to the area
of the buff that is rotating AWAY from the workpiece.

You should ensure that you are completely aware which area is
which, otherwise you could have a serious accident. Objects being
thrown away from a buffing wheel can be traveling at very high
speeds, which can result in some very unpleasant and potentially
deadly accidents!

When buffing parts have sharp corners, edges or hooks, they should
be offered to the wheel with the edge flowing away from the buff,
so the part does not catch.

Operators should ALWAYS wear SAFETY GOGGLES, APRON and GLOVES.

10
DETERMINING GRIT SIZES of
SANDPAPERS and COMPOUNDS
We often get asked, ‘Which grit should I use first?”
Unfortunately, there is no cut and dried answer to this,
because it really depends on the condition of the part.
So, lets discuss some examples:

1 Aluminum Side Cover with one deep scratch.

To successfully remove the scratch, ALL of the

material around the scratch has to be disposed of. In our
example, this means a lot of aluminum! Initially, we are
concerned with getting as much aluminum sanded off as
quickly as possible, so we would use the coarsest abrasive
available, say a 40 grit sandpaper.on a flat block. It
would be of NO USE to try to buff out this deep scratch
with a buffing wheel, because the wheel would remove more
material from the hole, as well as the surrounding areas.
By keeping the abrasive on a flat block, no further
material can be removed from the hole.
As the scratch is lessened, the grit size of paper is
reduced from 40, to 80, 120, 240, 320 and finally 600.Once
the surrounding material is removed, then the actual
polishing can be started. Buffing compounds will be
determined by the size of the scratches. If you have used a
600 grit paper, you may like to proceed directly to a white
buffing compound. If fine scratches are visible, then
you’ll need to ‘back off’ and go to the black compound
before retrying the white.

2. Aluminum Side Cover - just dull.

Obviously, it would be a step backwards to start treating
this piece by using the technique in our first example. As
there is no large metal content to be removed, you could
virtually dispense with the sandpapers and move directly to
the polishing aspect of the part. The Brown buffing
compound with a spiral sewn wheel could be employed to see
if the shine is good enough. If not, then use a black
compound, and then rework the part using the brown
compound.
3. Aluminum Wheel Casting
Many wheels are prepainted, directly over a rough sand
casting. Remove the paint using BUSCH Clearcoat Remover, to
expose the aluminum. The ‘pimples’ caused by the sand cast
have to be removed to flatten the metal ready for
polishing. Because of the difficult contours of the wheel,
it is virtually impossible to sand with a flat block, so
this is where Greaseless Compound comes in. Start off with
the 80 grit, using a spiral sewn wheel or, for the awkward
areas, a felt bob. Then proceed through the various grit
sizes of Greaseless, until the metal is smooth , all
‘pimples’ are removed and an even ‘flat’ finish is
achieved. The polishing should only begin once all traces
of ‘pimples’ are gone. Use Black Compound for most of the
polishing work, and finally, on a fresh or cleaned wheel,
buff lightly with the Brown compound.
BLACK = Emery Compound, a course abrasive
material for removal of scratches, pits,
paint, rust etc.
BROWN = Tripoli compound used for general
purpose cut and color on most soft metals.
WHITE = Blizzard compound, used for color
and final finish of harder metals, has a
cutting action. RED = Jeweller's Rouge,
designed to polish without any cutting
action. Safe on thin plates. Use on its own
wheel.
BLUE = A dryer, almost greaseless wheel -
designed to polish without any cutting
action. Safe on thin plates. Use on its own
wheel.
GREEN = Used exclusively for Stainless Steel
10
Suggestions for
Successful Buffing
▪ Dedicate a particular buff to a specified compound so that a
larger grain size will not scratch the final finish.
▪ With each different buffing operation, switch buffing
directions on the part if possible.
▪ Loose threads from a buff can drag over a work piece creating
undesirable results. To remove any loose attached threads, run
an abrasive belt attached to a board over the surface of the
buff.
▪ To remove final buffing compound haze and very fine web type
scratches, wipe the part with a nap out (soft) glove and
whiting compound. Flour will also work, but not as well as the
whiting compound.
▪ If one needs to cut faster with a given buff and compound,
increase the pressure to the work piece and add more compound.
▪ To reduce compound left on a part, reduce the wheel pressure to
the work piece.
▪ Fifteen to twenty-five percent of the buffing time is devoted
to applying compound to the wheel.
▪ It will decrease the life of the buff if too little compound is
used or if the buff is allowed to get too hot during operation.
▪ If buff wheels are worn out or allowed to get too hot, finish
performance will decrease.
▪ If the wheel is tearing (or ragging), the buff wheel may be out
of balance, running the wrong direction, being run with too
much pressure, or using the wrong wheel for a particular part.
Thanks!
ANY QUESTIONS?