Computer Applications

for Textile
GM-4045

Introduction to
Textile Processing

Kanza Hina
Week 8
 Processing

Textile Processing
Pre-Treatment

Coloration

Finishing

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 Pre-Treatment
• The pretreatment serves as a preparation for the
dyeing or printing of the fabric.
• During pretreatment, many substances are
removed, such as the natural pollution in wool
and cotton fabrics and contaminants arising from
machine lubricants, transport, or storage, and
preparative methods for spinning, weaving, or
knitting.

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• In addition, in the pretreatment the acceptance
and absorption capacity of the fibers for color
and textile auxiliary materials are increased.
• Further, the evenness of the surface is
increased and tensions that are caused by the
production process of the textile fabric can be
reduced.
1. Dry pre-treatments
2. Wet pre-treatments

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 Dry Pre-Treatment
• Normally, mechanical pretreatment is the first
process step at the beginning of fabric finishing.
• It is executed on fabrics and knitwear in a dry
state (dry handling).
• Brushing, Scutching, Napping, Shearing,
Singeing

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 Wet Pre-Treatments
• Textile wet processing is the process that use in
any finishing treatment. Where, this process is
applied on textile in form of liquid with involves
some for chemical action on the textile.
• Desizing, bleaching, scoring, mercerizing.

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 Singeing
• Singeing is the process is removing the hairs of
fabrics or fibers.
• In singeing process, we use three technique to
applied it.
• Such as, gas flame technique.
• At the end of this process, we will find, that the
fabrics is smoother than before and the fabrics
wettability is increase.

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cont…

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 Desizing
Desizing is the process or removing the starch or
size the covering the warp yarn using enzyme,
oxidizing agent, or other chemicals.
• To remove the starch material from the fabric.
• To increase the absorbency power of the fabric.
• To increase the affinity of the fabric to the dry
chemicals.
• To make the fabric suitable for the next process.
• To increase the luster of the fabric increase of
dyeing and printing

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 Methods of Desizing
• In desizing, bacteria is a conventional method
depend by others method. During this process,
the fabrics is wet out in water and allowed to lie
damp for several hour.
• Other than that, the method is most popular that
has been used in this wet processing is by using
enzyme. This enzyme are named after the
compound break down.

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• Beside that, the other method is acid hydrolysis.
This method can remove metal contamination at
the fabrics, but it might affect the cellulosic since
chemically starch and cellulose is very similar.
• Lastly, is oxidative desizing method. This
method using hydrogen peroxide and
persulphate, that will degrade the starch with
serious attack.

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 Scouring
• The term ‘scouring’ applies to the removal of
impurities such as oils, was, gums, soluble
impurities and sold dirt commonly found in textile
material and produce a hydrophilic and clean
cloth.
• Alkali (NaOH) + Soda ash + Wetting agent +
Detergent
• Scoring depend on type and color of cotton,
cleanliness of cotton, twist and count of the yarn,
and construction of the fabric.

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 Objectives of Scouring
• To remove natural as well as added impurities of
essentially hydrophobic character as completely
as possible
• To increase absorbency of textile material
• To leave the fabric in a highly hydrophilic
condition without undergoing chemical or
physical damage significantly.

Kanza Hina

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 Bleaching
• Fabrics are not pure white owing to their natural
fiber color or contamination in preceding
processing.
• So, the fabric has to be bleached to attain the
following desired results:
1. high brightness,
2. good stability of the white color,
3. good absorbency for the following dyeing,
4. theleast possible fiber damage, and
5. high economic efficiency of the process.

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• The oxidizing bleaching process is applied
primarily for products made of cotton (the three
process steps of desizing, boiling, and bleaching
are often performed in a single plant) and other
cellulosic fibers.
• The bleaching effect occurs by oxygen
separation.
• The bleaching agents used for this purpose are
hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), sodium hypochlorite
(NaClO), and sodium chlorite (NaClO2).

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 Mercerization
• The gloss, dye affinity, and tensile strength of
cotton can be increased by mercerizing.
• Furthermore, this treatment gives knitwear a
smoother feel and a higher dimensional stability.
• The material is treated with a concentrated
caustic soda solution under tension.

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 cont…
• The caustic solution macerates the fibers with
simultaneous longitudinal shrinkage from 20% to
25%.
• Here the lumen disappears in the fiber core and
the fibers assume the shape of a circular cross
section and lie in a stretched position

SEM photos of untreated and mercerized cotton

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 Dyeing
• Dyeing is the process of give color to fibers,
yarn, or fabrics by using natural or synthetic dye.
• In this process it have involving three principle
process, that are retardation, migration and
diffusion which all this are chemical process.
• There are many type of dyeing that using in
textile wet processing such as cross dyeing,
union dyeing and gel dyeing.

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Cellulose:
• substantive/direct dyes
• diazotization dyes
• developing dyes
• vat dye
• reactive dyestuff
• sulfide dyes
Polyester:
• dispersed dye

Kanza Hina

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 Printing
• Textile printing is the process of
applying color to fabric in definite patterns or
designs.
• In properly printed fabrics the color is bonded
with the fiber, so as to resist washing and
friction.
• Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas
in dyeing proper the whole fabric is uniformly
covered with one color, in printing one or more
colors are applied to it in certain parts only, and
in sharply defined patterns.

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• In contrast to dyeing of textiles, in which the dye
is absorbed evenly out of aqueous dye liquor
owing to chemical and physical processes on
the textile fiber material, textile printing is the
locally limited staining (sampling) of the textile
fabric.
• For printing textile fabrics the dye solutions or
suspensions are processed into a printable
paste by the addition of certain colloidal
substances (thickening) and certain chemicals
(among other auxiliary means).

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 Appret
• Appret covers all finishing processes that
provide textile fabrics with a special character,
for example, feel and appearance.
• In this way one receives the sales characteristics
and the service value and obtains fashionable
effects.
• Finishing is done predominantly as the final task,
especially on piece goods.

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cont…

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