THE NAIL AND IT’S

STRUCTURE AND GROWTH

WHY AS A COSMETOLOGIST DO I HAVE TO
KNOW THE STRUCTURE AND GROWTH OF
THE NAIL?
That’s a very good question. The fact is that the
structure and growth of the nail is certainly not the
most glamorous portion of your training in
cosmetology, but it could be one of the most
essential. More infections are spread through the
nails and hands than any other area of the body.
To give clients professional and responsible
service, you must learn about the structure and
function of the nail.
•You must know when it is safe to work on a client
and when they must be referred to a doctor. As a
Cosmetologist you should learn about the
structure and growth of the nail since it is
extremely relevant to your future success and
well-being as a professional. Cosmetologists
should study and have a thorough understanding
of nail structure and growth because:
•Understanding the structure and growth of
natural nails allows you to expertly groom,
strengthen, and beautify nails.
•It is important to know the difference between
the cuticle and the eponychium before performing
nail services.
•Understanding the structure and growth cycles of
the natural nail will prepare you for more
advanced nail services.’
WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE
NAIL, ITS STRUCTURE, AND GROWTH IN
ORDER TO PROVIDE QUALITY MANICURING
AND PEDICURING SERVICES?
As a Cosmetologist you will need to recognize
that the condition of the nail may actually reflect
the general health of the whole body. You need
to understand the structure of the nail and also
the structures surrounding the nail. Once you
understand how the nail grows, you will be better
Equipped to recognize the malformations,
disorders, and irregularities that your clients may
bring to the salon. When you’ve gained that
knowledge, you can proceed confidently with
appropriate nail services knowing that you and
your client are not at risk.
THE NATURAL NAIL
The natural nail, also known as ONYX is the hard
protective plate composed mainly of keratin, the
same fibrous protein found in skin and hair. The
natural nail is located at the end of the finger or
toe. It is an appendage of the skin and part of
the integumentary system.
Which is made up of the skin and its various
organs. Nail plates protect the tips of the fingers
and toes, and their appearance can reflect
general health of the body.
A normal healthy nail is firm but flexible. The
surface is shiny, smooth, and unspotted with no
wavy ridges, pits, or splits. It also is whitish and
translucent in appearance, with the pinkish color
or the nail bed showing through. A healthy nail
may look dry and hard, but its water content is
actually between 15 and 25%. Water content
affect the nail’s flexibility, the lower the water
content the more rigid the nail becomes.
NAIL STRUCTURE/ANATOMY
The nail consist of three parts: the nail body or
plate, nail root, and free edge.
The nail body or plate, is the visible portion of
the nail that rests upon, and is attached to the nail
bed. The nail body extends from the root to the
free edge. It is the hardened keratin plate that sits
on and covers the nail bed. It is relatively porous
and will allow water to pass through it. It is
formed by matrix cells. It appears to be one
piece, but is actually constructed of about 100
layers of nail cells. Constructed of dead cells
requiring no oxygen.
The nail root is at the base of the nail and is
embedded underneath the skin. It is attached to
an actively growing tissue known as the matrix.
The free edge is the end portion of the nail plate
that extends from the tip of the finger or toe.
The nail bed is the living portion of the skin upon
which the nail body rests. It is pinkish in color and
It has many blood vessels that provide
nourishment necessary for continued growth of
the nail, also supplied with and abundance of
nerves. It is attached to the plate by a thin layer
of tissue called the bed epithelium. Does not
have sudoriferous glands so it can’t perspire.
The bed epithelium helps guide the nail plate
along the nail bed as it grows.

The MATRIX is the part of the nail bed that

extends beneath the nail root and contains
nerves, lymph, and blood vessels to nourish the
nail. This is where the nail plate cells are formed,
this area is composed of matrix cells, that
produce the nail plate cells that generate and
harden the nail. The matrix will continue to grow
as long as it receives nutrition and remains
healthy. Growth can be retarded if an individual is
in poor health, nail disorder or disease is present
or if there is an injury to the matrix.
The lunula or half-moon, is located at the base
of the nail. The light whitish color of the lunula is
caused by the reflection of light where the matrix
and the connective tissue of the nail bed join.
Every nail has a lunula, but some lunulas are
short and remain hidden under the eponychium.
FREE EDGE
NAIL BODY
OR PLATE
NAIL BED

LUNULA
NAIL ROOT
MATRIX
STRUCTURES SURROUNDING THE NAIL:
CUTICLE: The cuticle is the dead, colorless tissue
attached to the natural nail plate. The cuticle comes
from the underside of the skin that lies above the natural
nail plate. A normal cuticle should be loose and pliable.
This prevents entry of foreign material
and microorganisms and helps
prevent Injury and infection.
EPONYCHIUM: The eponychium
Is the living skin at the base of the
Natural nail plate that covers the
Matrix area. The eponychium is
Often confused with the cuticle.
They are not the same. The cuticle is the dead tissue
adhered to the nail plate; the eponychium is living tissue
that grows up to the nail plate. The cuticle comes from
the underside of this area, where it completely detaches
from the eponychium and strongly attaches to the new
growth of nail plate. It pulls free to form a seal between
the natural nail plate and the eponychium.
HYPONYCHIUM: The hyponychium
is the slightly thickened layer of skin
that lies between the fingertip and the
And the free edge of the natural nail
Plate. It forms a protective barrier that mantle

Prevents microorganisms from invading

And infecting the nail bed.
PERIONYCHIUM: The perionychium is that
portion of the epidermis surrounding the entire
nail border.
NAIL WALL: The folds of skin overlapping the
sides of the nail.
NAIL GROOVES: Folds of skin that form the slits,
or furrows or tracks, at either side of the nail or
sidewall (also known as lateral nail fold) upon
which the nail moves as it grows.
MANTLE/NAIL FOLD: The deep fold of skin in
which the nail root is embedded.
SPECIALIZED LIGAMENTS: A LIGAMENT IS A TOUGH
BAND OF FIBROUS TISSUE THAT CONNECTS
BONES OR HOLDS AN ORGAN IN PLACE. They
attach the nail bed and matrix bed to the underlying
bone. They are located at the base of the matrix and
around the edges of the nail bed.
NAIL GROWTH: Normal nails:
a. Grow forward from the matrix and extend over the
tip of the finger.
b.Can grow in a variety of shapes depending on the
shape of the matrix.
c. Length, width, and curvature of the matrix
determine the thickness, width and curvature of
the natural nail plate.
d. Longer matrix produces a thicker nail plate, highly
curved matrix creates a highly curved free edge.
e. No product can make the plate grow thicker, that
would require a larger matrix.
f. TOENAILS ARE THICKER AND HARDER THAN
FINGERNAILS BECAUSE THE TOENAIL MATRIX IS
LONGER.
g. Average growth rate for nails in normal adults is 1/10
of an inch per month.
h. Children’s nails grow faster.
i. Nails of the elderly grow slower.
j. Nails grow faster in summer.
k. Nails grow slower in winter months.
l. Growth rates increase during the last trimester of
pregnancy.
m.The nail of the middle finger grows the fastest.
n. The nail of the thumb grows the slowest.
o. Toenails grow more slowly than fingernails and are
thicker and harder.
p. Growth of the nail is influenced by nutrition, general
health, and disease.
NAIL MALFORMATION:
a. Shape and thickness of nail plate can change if
disease, Injury, or infection occurs in the matrix.
b. If a nail is lost due to injury or infection of the matrix it
May not grow back normal.
c. If the matrix is not damaged through disease, injury or
Infection it should grow back normal.
d. Replacement of a natural fingernail takes about 4 to6
Months.
e. Toenails take about 9 months to 1 year to be fully
Replaced.
Diseases of the nail should never be treated by a
Cosmetologist. However, you may work on disorders
such as the following:
a. Furrow or corrugations: long depressions that run
lengthwise or across the nail. Causes: zinc deficiency,
pregnancy, psoriasis, frostbite, high fever, measles in
childhood, poor circulation. If furrows are not deep buff
nails with a nail buffer or pumice powder to remove or
shorten ridges, fill remaining ridges with ridge filler,
cover with polish.
b. Onychopagy: Bitten, deformed nails. Result of an
acquired nervous habit – chewing nail or hard cuticle.
Frequent manicures, tips or wraps to help correct.
c. Discolored nails: Nail appears blue in color. Disguise
f. Onychorrhexis: Split or brittle nails. Causes may be
injury to the finger, careless filing of the nails, vitamin
deficiencies, illness, frequent exposure to strong soap
and water, excessive use of cuticle solvent and nail
polish removers. Suggest hot oil manicures.
g. Onychocryptosis or ingrown nails: Nail grows into the
tissue on the sides of the nail. Improper filing, poor
fitting shoes.
h. Agnails or hangnails: Cuticle is dry, so it splits. Causes
could be cutting off too much cuticle, carelessness in
removing the cuticle. Soften with oil.
i. Leukonychia: White spots on the nail. Can be caused
by injury to the base of the nail. Through growth white
spots usually disappear.
j. Onychauxis or hypertrophy: Overgrowth of nails,
usually in thickness rather than length. Usually caused
by a local infection and can also be hereditary. If
infection is present, nail is not to be manicured, if not
present you may manicure. File smooth and buff with
pumice powder.
k. Eggshell nails: Fragile thin, white, and curved nails
more flexible than normal. Nail plate separates from
the nail bed and curves as the free edge. Can be
caused by a chronic illness of systemic or nervous
origin.
l. Pteryguim: Common forward sticky cuticle growth.
Can be caused by circulatory problems.
m. Onychatrophia or atrophy: Nail loses its luster,
becomes smaller and sometimes shed entirely
causing wasting away of the nail. File smooth with fine
side of emery board. (Exposure to strong soaps)

n. Blue nails can be caused by poor blood circulation or

a heart disorder.
o. Bruised nails: will have dark, purplish (almost black or
brown) spots, usually due to injury or bleeding in the
nail bed. The dried blood attaches itself to the nail
and grows out with it. Treat gently, avoid pressure.
p. Treating cuts: If a client is accidentally cut during a
manicure apply an antiseptic immediately. Do not buff
or apply nail polish to injured finger. To protect against
infection, apply a sterile bandage.
q. Infected finger: In case of an infected finger, the client
,,,
should be referred to a physician.