Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Fabric Construction
Fabric Construction
that require some shaping and flexibility. It is made up of yarns which in turn are
made up of fibers.
prohibited.
direction.
Woven fabrics are prepared on the loom. A loom holds the warp yarns.
Parallel to each other and the weft is interlaced through the warp.
Different patterns of interlacing can give different surface effects or
patterns on the fabric.
prohibited.
as a warp sheet.
Weaving can be summarized as a repetition of following steps/processes.
1. Shedding 4. Taking up
Each alternate warp yarns are separated by raising With each shedding, Picking, Beating operation,
or lowering heald frames (heddles/harness)to form the new fabric must be wound on the cloth beam
a clear space(shed) form where the weft (shuttle) to make space for new weft insertion, which is
will pass. called 'taking up'.
2. Picking
As the warps are raised, the weft yarn is passed
across the loom by hand, an air jet, a rapier or by 5. Letting off
shuttle. At the same time, the warp yarns must be
3. Beating up (Battening) released from the warp beam which is called
With each picking operation, the reed pushes or 'letting off'.
prohibited.
As the shuttle moves back and forth Main purpose of selvedge :
across the width of the shed/fabric, Is to hold warp and weft yarns,
a self edge is woven on the both side
of the fabric, which is called selvage It prevents fabric from raveling/fraying,
or selvedge. It is usually much more compact than rest
Very often fabric near the selvage is of the fabric.
not usable as it may have a different There are more warp yarns in the area of
weave pattern, or lack of prints that selvedge.
are present on the rest of the fabric.
Mostly ply is used for selvedge
According the requirement the
selvage can be cut off or hidden in a
prohibited.
Fabric weight
The fabrics are divided into -
Light weight: Those that weigh less than 4 oz/yd2. They are soft, sheer, and drape well.
Medium weight: Those that weight from 4 to 6 oz/yd2. They are heavier and stiffer.
Heavy weight: Those that weight more than 6 oz/yd2. They are durable, stiff and thick.
This refers to the number of warp and weft yarns per square inch of grey goods (fabric as it
comes from the loom). Count is written with warp first and then weft for e.g. 80 x 76
means, there are 80 warps and 76 wefts in one square inch of the fabric. This is measured
by the fabric yarn counter often referred to as pick glass.
Count is the indication of the quality of the fabric. Higher the count better is the quality of
the fabric.
Balance is the ratio of the warp yarns to filling yarns in a fabric. A balanced fabric has one
warp yarn for every filling yarn, or a ratio of 1:1 – e.g. print cloth which has a count of
78x78. An unbalanced fabric has significant more of one set of yarns than the other e.g.
fabric with a count of 144 x 76 and a ratio of 2:1.
For cutting and sewing purposes, it is
necessary to identify the face, or the
right side of a fabric. When the cloth
is on a fabric role, identification
becomes easy because the fabric is
wound or folded with the right side
inside to keep it clean.
Weaves
Right Left
Pointed Herringbone
Hand Hand
Peg Plan:
Design:
Peg plan or Lifting plan is useful
Design indicates the manner in for weaver.
which the warps and wefts will
It denotes the order of lifting of
be interlaced for that particular
heald shaft (harness). In a peg
weave.
plan vertical spaces indicate the
The appearance of the fabric harnesses and horizontal spaces
surface id depend upon the indicate the wefts.
weave design.
The peg plan depends uopn the
drafting plan.
Draft:
The draft or Drawing plan Draft
indicates the manner of inserting
warps through the heald eyes.
It also denotes the number of
Peg Plan
heald shaft (harness) required
for weave.
Design
Plain weave is the simplest form of Draft
weaving.
Warp Rib
Weft Rib
Basket weave is an extension of plain weave in both ways.
It can be regular an irregular.
The second basic weave pattern used in the
manufacture of fabrics is the twill weave.
Fabrics with this weave make strong fabrics. Right Hand Twill
These weave have given names according to their interlace pattern and
the surface effect which they create on the fabric.
2. Huck-A-Back Weave
3. Crepe Weave
prohibited.
The name is derived from their partial resemblance to the hexagonal honey comb
cells.
These weave form ridges and hollows which gives a cell like appearance.
Both warp and wefts on both sides, which creates rough structure and makes fabric
more moisture absorbent.
Repeat is divided into four equal parts. Two parts are filled with plain weave and remaining two
are filled with long floats.
This effect can be achieved by using crepe yarn in plain weave or using
deferent arrangement of yarns to produce crepe effect.
Crepe effect is obtained by insertion of twill weave (3/1 and 1/3) upon every
sateen base.
Nonwovens :
Nonwovens are typically manufactured
by putting small fibers together in the
form of a sheet, and then binding them
either
The base material can be woven or knitted, made up of any type of fiber.
Laminates :
Base fabric is sandwiched between two
plies of flexible thermoplastic film. It
can be bonded utilizing either foam
itself, or some other material, such as
adhesives, heat, or chemical bonding
agents.
Films :
It is made by thermoplastic polymer
extruding from a slit shaped device
instead of holes of spinerette.
Generally 0.01 inch (0.25mm) thick.
Acrylics, nylon, polyester, polyethylene,
polypropylene, polyvinylchloride, and
urethane are used to make films.
The term fabric analysis means the
process of finding all requirements
necessary to reproduce a certain
fabric from given sample.
Fiber type, yarn count, dyes,
weave structure etc.
Pile fabrics can be both functional and beautiful. A high Velvet, corduroy fabrics are made by pile
thick pile adds warmth. Low-twist yarns produce weave
absorbent fabrics (towels).