Chapter 3

Drafting the Sleeve Sloper

A M D 225 Patternmaking I
Sleeves
 Two Basic Sleeve Classifications
Set-in Sleeve Sleeve-bodice Combinations
• sleeve cut separately and • sleeve combined in part, or
stitched into the armhole of with the entire bodice
the bodice • Chapter 15
• Chapter 14
 Variations of the Basic Sleeve
Additional Sleeve Slopers Sleeve Designs
• Dartless sleeve: • Bell sleeve
– A straight sleeve without an
• Bishop sleeve:
elbow dart that is used as a • Cap sleeve
base to create many sleeve • Cowl sleeve
designs. • Extended cap
• Quartering sleeve: • Lantern sleeve
• Leg-of-mutton sleeve
– Sleeve divided into four equal
• Petal sleeve
parts from cap to wrist.
• Puff sleeve
– Used as guidelines for
• Roll-up sleeve
spreading the sleeve.
• Wedding sleeve
The Basic Pattern Set

SLEEVE DRAFT
 Parts of the Basic Sleeve
• Sleeve cap:
– Curved top of the sleeve from front to back.
• Cap height:
– Distance from biceps to cap at center.
• Grainline:
– Center of the sleeve from top of the cap to
wrist level—straight grain of sleeve.
• Biceps level:
– The widest part of the sleeve, dividing the cap
from the lower sleeve.
• Elbow level:
– The location of the dart is level with the elbow
of the arm.
• Wrist level:
– The bottom (hemline) of the long sleeve, level
with the wrist.
 Relationship of Sleeve Cap to Torso &
Bodice Armscye
Cap ease
• Difference between the cap
and armhole measurements
– (ranging from 1 to 1 7/8”).
• Walk the sleeve along the
armhole to mark the
location of the notch to
equalize cap ease.
Notches
• What is the purpose of
notching front and back
sleeve cap?
• How many notches &
where?
– One notch = front sleeve;
– two notches = back sleeve.
– Cap notch indicates where
the sleeve and the shoulder
meet (location can vary from
center grainline).
 Fitting the Sleeve
• We will learn how to:
– Identify and correct problems with the fit of the
sleeve
– Explain sleeve rotation and the correction that
would upright the sleeve.
Fitting the Sleeve to the Bodice / Torso
• Identify when the • Correct the basic sleeve
sleeve is in need of that hangs away from
rotation. the side of the garment.