• MR. & MRS.

DEVADASON
FACULTY
• PGDM 1ST YEAR
CLASS
CALCUTTA BUSINESS SCHOOL
• RAJDEEP LAHA
NAME
The NECKTIE
A Brief history of
WHAT IS A NECKTIE ?
The Necktie (or Tie) is a long piece of cloth
worn for decorative purposes around the neck
or shoulders, resting under the shirt collar and
knotted at the throat.

Men and women wear neckties as part of regular

office attire or formal wear. Neckties can also be
worn as part of a uniform (e.g. military, school).
The history of Necktie
1618 – 1648 : THE THIRTY YEAR’S WAR

It was around this time that

the CROATIAN mercenaries
from the FRENCH Military
Frontier wearing their
traditional small knotted
neckerchiefs aroused the
interest of the PARISIANS.
Due to the slight difference in
the Croatian words for Croats,
Hrvati, and the French word,
Croates, the garment gained
the name “CRAVAT”
1650 – 1720 : THE STEINKIRK
The STIENKIRK, a neck cloth with long lace ends and which is worn in a
disheveled manner became very popular. It originated in THE BATTLE OF
STEENKERQUE, when the French soldiers tucked their neck scarves into
their buttonholes because they were caught by surprise by the enemy and had
no time to properly dress.

1720 -1800 : STOCKS, SOLITAIRES, NECKCLOTHES &

CRAVATS
In 1715 another kind of neckwear called ‘STOCKS’, made its appearance.
Stocks were initially just a small piece of muslin folded into a narrow band
wound a few times round the shirt collar and secured from behind with a pin.
The ends were tucked into a black silk bag worn at the nape of the neck.
 The ‘SOLITAIRE’ was a variation of the bag wig. This form had matching
ribbons stitched around the bag. After the stock was in place, the ribbons would
be brought forward and tied in a large bow in front of the wearer.
Clockwise from top:
1) A STIENKIRK
2) A STOCK
3) A SOLITAIRE
1800 – 1850 : CRAVATS, STOCKS, SCARVES & BANDANAS
During this time, there was also much interest in the way to tie a proper cravat
and this led to a series of publications. This began , in the year 1918 with
‘NECKCLOTHITANIA’, which is a book that contained instructions and
illustrations on how to tie 14 different cravats. It was also the first book to use the
word ‘tie’ in association with neckwear.
BANDANA : A Bandana is also known as a kerchief. A kerchief (from the
French word ‘couvre-chef’ which means "cover the head") is a triangular or
square piece of cloth tied around the head or around the neck for protective or
decorative purposes.
SCARVES : A scarf is a piece of fabric worn on or near the head or around the
neck for warmth, cleanliness, fashion or for religious reasons. Ancient Rome is
one of the first origins of the scarf, where it was not used to keep warm, but to
keep clean. It was called the ‘sudarium’, which translates from Latin to English
as "sweat cloth", and was used to wipe the sweat from the neck and face in hot
weather. They were originally worn by men around their neck or tied to their belt.
1) A PAGE FROM
NECKCLOTHITANIA
2) Different types of
SCARVES
1850 – 1920 : BOW TIES, SCARVES, ASCOTS & THE LONG NECK
TIE
The industrial revolution created a need for neckwear that was easy to
put on, comfortable and would last an entire workday. The modern
necktie, as is still worn by millions of men today, was born. It was long,
thin and easy to knot and it didn’t come undone.

In 1864, the first mass-produced readymade tie was patented and
became widely popular throughout much of GERMANY and the
UNITED STATES of AMERICA.

In 1880, the BRITISH MILITARY abandoned their brightly coloured

uniforms in an effort to camouflage; however, their original colours
remained in the stripes of their neckties, which became a signature part of
their uniform.
BOWTIE : The bow tie is a men's necktie popularly worn with formal
attire, such as suits or dinner jackets. It consists of a ribbon of fabric tied
around the collar in a symmetrical manner such that the two opposite ends
form loops. It is also informally called as ‘DICKIE BOW’.

ASCOT : An ascot tie, or ascot, is a narrow neckband with wide pointed

wings, traditionally made of pale grey patterned silk. This wide, formal tie is
usually patterned, folded over, and fastened with a stickpin or tie tack. It is
usually reserved for wear with morning dress for formal daytime weddings
and worn with a cutaway morning coat and striped grey trousers. This type of
dress cravat is made of a thicker, woven type of silk similar to a modern tie
and is traditionally either grey or black.

THE LONG NECKTIE : The modern day NECK TIE came into existence
during this period, which can be classified in terms of different types of knots,
fabrics, designs etc
1) AN ASCOT TIE
2) A BOW TIE
3) A NECKTIE FROM A 1913
ARROW COLLAR AD
1920 – 1950 : THE BOLD AND BROADER LOOK.
After the First World War, hand-painted ties became an accepted form of
decoration in America. The widths of some of these ties went up to 4.5 inches
(110 mm). These loud, flamboyant ties sold very well all the way through the
1950s.
1920 : The French fashion designers invented the first variation of the
“Designer Tie” which were made from very expensive materials and had very
bold and colourful designs.
1920 : The Macclesfield tie became very popular among wealthy Americans.
These ties featured a geometric pattern that was specialty of this London area’s
textile mills.
1926 : American tailor JESSE LANGSDORF created a new method of tie
production that improved the elasticity and the fabric’s ability to return to it’s
original shape.
1936 : The Duke of Windsor invented the WINDSOR KNOT for ties, a wide,
triangular knot placed on shirt collars.
1940s : Neckties became much more wider and were adorned with unique and
bolder patterns, further symbolizing the freedom of expression.
1950s : The Neckties became thinner ,less decorative and thus more formal.
1950s – PRESENT DAY : THE EMERGENCE OF THE FORMAL
NECKTIE
The Bold Look lasted until about 1951, when the "Mister T" look (so termed by Esquire magazine),
was introduced. The new style, characterized by tapered suits, slimmer lapels, and smaller hat brims,
included thinner and not so wild ties. Tie widths slimmed to 3" by 1953 and continued getting thinner
up until the mid-1960s; length increased to about 52" as opposed to the length of 48” earlier.
The 1960s brought about an influx of pop art influenced designs. Ties became wider, returning to their
4½ inch width, sometimes with garish colors and designs.
In the 1980s, narrower ties, some as narrow as 1½" but more typically 3" to 3¼" wide, became
popular again. Into the 1990s, as ties got wider again, increasingly unusual designs became common.
Novelty (or joke) ties or deliberately kitschy ties designed to make a statement gained a certain
popularity in the 1980s and 1990s. These included ties featuring cartoon characters, commercial
products or pop culture icons, and those made of unusual materials, such as plastic or wood. During this
period, with men wearing their pants at their hips, ties lengthened to 57".
At the start of the 21st century, ties widened to 3½" to 3¾" wide, with a broad range of patterns
available, from traditional stripes, foulards, and club ties (Ties with a crest or design signifying a club,
organization, or order) to abstract, themed, and humorous ones. The standard length remains 57", though
2008 and 2009 saw a return to narrower ties. While ties as wide as 3¾" are still available, ties under 3"
wide also became popular, particularly with younger men and the fashion-conscious.
 CLASSIFICATION OF NECKTIES :
A. ON THE BASIS OF DIFFERENT KNOTS :

CROSS KNOT FOUR-IN HAND KNOT SMALL KNOT

HALF-WINDSOR KNOT WINDSOR KNOT PRINCE ALBERT KNOT

CLASSIFICATION OF NECKTIES :
B. On the basis of different fabrics :

RAYON TIE LEATHER TIE

SILK TIE WOLLEN TIE

CLASSIFICATION OF NECKTIES :
C. ON THE BASIS OF DIFFERENT DESIGNS :

HAND PAINTED TIE ANIMAL PRINTED TIE

STRIPED TIE POLKA DOTTED TIE

THE NECKTIE AS A FORMAL ATTIRE :
SYMBOL OF STATUS : Ties acted as a symbol of status for men in 19 th century as
usually rich men used to wear ties of very expensive materials to show-off their class.

SIGN OF MEMBERSHIP : Ties soon became the basic norms for men to be the
members of certain distinguished clubs and societies. Even some of the clubs used a
definite pattern or colour of tie to indicate the wearer’s membership to a certain club.

 AS A PART OF UNIFORMS : Soon ties became a part of uniform for military

personnel as well as school and college students.

AS A DRESS CODE FOR FORMAL AND SOCAIL DAY OR EVENING EVENTS
: The neckties also became a part of the dress code to attend any sort of social events.
Usually the BLACK TIE OR WHITE TIE are considered as a integral part of the
dress code for social events.

AS A DRESS CODE FOR CORPORATE OFFICE CULTURE : Today The

NECKTIE has become a regulatory dress code to work in or attend any sort of
corporation or office.