MONGOLIAN EMPIRE

13TH TO 14TH CENTURY

Mongolian Empire in
12th century and the
countries that came
under
• Russia
• China Khazakasthan
• Pakistan
• Sudan
• Algeria
• Libia and many more
History
1. The Mongol Empire: 2nd largest land empire ever conquered from 1206 and 1368.
2. With 110 million population.
3. Led by their Genghis Khan, took control of approx. 24,000,000 square 9,300,000 square miles of
Eurasia.
4. In 1335, the Mongols lost control of Persia.
5. The Black Death swept across Central Asia along Mongol trade routes, wiping out entire cities.
 Genghis Khan
■ Genghis Khan was the first leader, or Khan,
of the Mongol Empire, from 1206 CE–1227
CE.
■ He was born around 1162 in modern-day
northern Mongolia into a nomadic tribe
with noble ties and powerful alliances.

Genghis Khan: Genghis

Khan as portrayed in a
14th-century Yuan-era
album. He was the first
leader of the unified
Mongols and first emperor
under the Mongolian
Empire.
MONGOLIAN CLOTHING
■ In 13th and 14th century CE, clothing reflected
their nomadic lifestyle in the often harsh
climate of the Asian steppe.
■ Felt hats, long jackets with loose sleeves, and
practical baggy trousers.
■ Both male and female traditional outfits
consist of a large overcoat called “deel”, a belt,
an intricate headdress, boots, and some
accessories. Under the coat, people use
ordinary shirts, trousers, skirts, and dresses.
■ In winter a heavy coat of fur or felt was worn
over the deel robe. Under the robe another
thin robe might be worn or a simple cotton or
silk undershirt. Trousers were worn under the
ever-present robe.
■ Winter trousers could be made entirely from
fur or have cotton, wool or silk padding, the
latter being an excellent light insulator.
Deels
■ The most recognisable piece of outer
clothing for Mongol men and women, still
widely worn today, was the short robe
or deel.
■ This one-piece long jacket was folded over
and closed on the left side of the chest (left
breast doubled over the right) with a button
or tie positioned just below the right
armpit. A traditional
Mongolian deel
■ Robes were strong, warm, durable and robe. The
comfortable and flexible when riding on a embroidery and
horse or sitting on the floor of a yurt. fur trim of this
example indicate
■ The outer lining of the robe was of cotton it was likely worn
or silk and heavier versions had an additional at the imperial
fur or felt lining or a quilt padding. court.

■ Deels were worn in the winter and

a terlig (thinly-lined coat similar to a deel) in
the summer.
The Mongol Scroll, aka the 'Illustrated
Account of the Mongol Invasion of Japan.'
 Kaftan

Source: Flat Bottomed Cup. Length:

142cm Width cuff to cuff: 246cm
Currently at Collection of Inner Source: Caftan. 14th century. Via The David
Mongolia Museum. Collection, http://davidmus.dk/en/collections/islamic/mat
erials/textiles/art/23-2004.
Belts

■ A wide leather belt was worn which had useful hanging pouches
and which might be decorated with ornate metal pieces. Belt Hook, Yuan dynasty (1271–1368);
Mongolia. Jade, with silk band; H. 1 in. (2.5 cm),
■ The belts of women were even more decorative than those of the W. 15/16 in. (2.4 cm), L. 4 3/4 in. (12 cm). Lent
by Gansu Provincial Museum
men.
■ Essential tools such as eating gear, tobacco and pipe, knives, cups
and firestones were hung off the belt

Belt Slide, 12th–14th century, Jin (1115–1234)–

Yuan (1271–1368) dynasty, China. Jade (nephrite);
L.: 2 11/16 in. (6.9 cm). The Metropolitan Museum
of Art, New York, Purchase, Florence and Herbert
Irving Gift, 1991 (1991.483)
 Footwears
■ Boots were made of leather and were often worn
with warm felt socks.
■ Boots had turned up toes to allow the foot to easily
slip out of stirrups should a rider fall, but also added
a pocket of warmer air in the boot.
■ The tough hide bootleg protected legs when riding
or walking through tough grass. In winter, fur covers
called degtii were pulled over boots. Boot heels
could be high or low, depending on the boots’
purpose. Boots had no heels and were fastened tight
using laces.
■ These boots would be fashioned from animal hide,
often from cow skin, goat or sheep, with the sole
being layered numerous times to bear the changing
climate. The toe of the boot would curve upwards to
make using stirrups easier, as horse riding was an
essential part of life for all Mongol warrior.
Fabrics
■ In the early Mongol years before the empire had grown and the Mongolians were just a small tribe,
most clothing was made of hemp fibre material, and animal skin. Later when the empire grew, and the
Mongols travelled their clothing materials broadened. From lands like China they discovered silk, which
would become a favourite material providing a smooth alternative to the rough hemp for the
Mongols. From India they discovered cotton which came to replace many of their traditional hemp
clothing
■ Felt was used for clothing, blankets, and the yurt tents
■ The Mongols acquired furs such as sable, squirrel, rabbit, fox, monkey, dog, goat, and wolf. Exotic or
difficult to obtain furs like snow leopard and lynx were especially prized and reserved for the elite
members of society.
■ Deels: Women’s deels were always long. Summer deels were made of cotton or silk while winter deels
were made of felted wool, leather, suede lined with fur or sheepskin, with the warm wooly part turned
inwards .
■ Boots: Boots were made from felt or leather with the sole usually being a thickened layer of felt and the
boots high enough to tuck in the trousers.
■ Hats: The classic Mongol hat was conical and made from felt and fur with flaps for the ears and an
upturned brim at the front.