Jute as a vegetable textile fibre

Presented by
Afzaal Qammar(2012-ag-552)
And
M. Farhan Shakar(2012-ag-553)

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 Contents
1. Definition of jute fibre.
2. Introduction to jute fibre.
3. Origin and Major Jute producing countries.
4. Fibre production and early processing.
5. Longitudinal and cross sectional view under
microscope.
6. Retting and fibre extraction (Decorticating).

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7. Manual retting.
8. Mechanical retting.
9. Jute fibre sorting.
10.Physical and chemical properties.
11. Flowchart diagram for yarn production from jute
fibre
12. Fabric production, end-uses and specifications.

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 Jute Fiber Definition
• Jute is a long, soft, shiny fiber that can be
spun into coarse, strong threads.

• It is one of the cheapest natural fibers.

• Jute fibers are primarily composed of the

plant materials cellulose, lignin, and pectin.

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• Both the fiber and the plant from which it
comes are commonly called jute.

• Jute fibre is often called hessian.

• Jute fiber is also known as Golden fiber.

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 PICTURE OF JUTE FIBERS.

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 Introduction to Jute fiber
• Jute, a rainy season crop, grows best in warm,
humid climates.

• To grow jute, farmers scatter the seeds on

cultivated soil About four months after
planting, harvesting begins.

• The plants are usually harvested after they

bloom, but before the blossoms go to seed.
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 Introduction to Jute fiber
• Jute When the plants are about 6 inches (15
centimeters) tall, they are thinned out.

• It is graded (rated) according to its color, strength, and

fiber length.

• The fibers are off-white to brown and 3 to 15 feet (0.9

to 4.5 meters) long.

• Jute is pressed into bales for shipment to

manufacturers .

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 Introduction to Jute fiber
• Jute grows in alluvial soils and can survive in
heavy flooding.

• It will only grow in areas with high temperatures,

sand or loam soils, and annual rainfall over 1,000
millimeters.

• Large-scale jute cultivation is virtually confined to

northern and eastern Bengal, mostly in the
floodplains of the Ganges and Brahmaputra
Rivers.
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 Introduction to Jute fiber
• More than 97 percent of the world's jute is
produced in Asia, including 65 percent in India
and 28 percent in Bangladesh.

• The world's largest jute mill is in Bangladesh

• In India 4000,000 families are involved in the

cultivation of raw jute
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 Introduction to Jute fiber
• There are 76 jute mills in India and nearly
1,37,679(Oct.2001) people are employed in these
mills.

• India is also self sufficient in the jute seed

production.

• More than 90 percent of seeds are produced by

the state seed corporation of Andhra Pradesh and
Maharashtra.

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 Origin and Major Jute producing countries.

• Jute is grown mainly in India, Bangladesh, China,

Myanmar, Nepal and Thailand.
• The total area under cultivation, yield and total
production of jute/ mesta1 in these countries are
given in Table These figures cover the total
production of `jute and similar' bast fibres, which
are: white jute (Corchorus capsularis), tossa jute
(C. olitorius), kenaf (Hibiscus cannabinus) and
rosella (H. sibdoriffa).

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• Abaca (Musa textiles) is not included as the fibre
is obtained from the leaf sheath of the plant and
is therefore not a bast fibre. India and Bangladesh
account for more than 93% of the jute fibres
produced all over the world.
• There are over thirty Corchorus species but only
two of them are widely known, Corchorus
capsularis (white jute) and Corchorus olitorius
(tossa jute)
• These are commercially grown in Bangladesh,
India and Nepal. Kenaf and Mesta (rosella or
Roselle), the other fibres allied to jute, are grown
in China and Thailand.

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• Mesta is also grown and is commercially
important in India and Thailand.
• White and tossa jute cannot normally tolerate
water-logged conditions but can be grown on
high land that is normally subject to flooding.
• Jute is mainly used for manufacturing
products for the packaging of grains, sugar,
cocoa, coffee and other food crops as well as
for cement, fertilizers, salt, cotton, etc.
• These, i.e., hessian (burlap) and sacks,
currently account for 80% of jute production.

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Fibre production and early processing
• Jute is the common name given to fibres
extracted from the stems of plants belonging
to the botanical genus Corchorus.
• Although over 40 wild species are known,
only two, viz., C. capsularis L. and C. olitorius
L. are cultivated commercially.
• Within the jute manufacturing industry, C.
capsularis is known as `white jute' and C.
olitorius as `Tossa' jute

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Fibre production and early processing
• There are many plants similar to Corchorus that grow
in the tropics and sub-tropics, and from which fibres
can be extracted from the stem.
• The plants are all woody-stemmed herbaceous
dicotyledons, having the fibre located in the bast,
between the epidermis and the woody core.
• The most important of these from the point of view of
textile fibres are two species of the genus Hibiscus, viz.,
H. cannabinus L. and H. sabdariffa L., both of which are
commonly referred to as kenaf, although H. sabdariffa
L. is, more correctly, rosella.

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Fibre production and early processing
• They are all suitable for converting into yarn on
jute spinning systems and in marketing statistics
are often grouped together as `jute and allied
fibres'.
• `White' jute (Corchorus capsularis) which is
usually golden yellow, is one of several closely
related types in textile use.4 The cell wall of the
fibre varies in thickness.
• The fibres are coarse, generally 20±25 m in
diameter; the length of the ultimate fibres is only
1±5 mm.

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Fibre production and early processing
• Spinnable fibres are composed of ten or more ultimate
fibres placed in overlapping fibre bundles joined
together by non-cellulosic material, usually lignin.
• Though jute is a strong fibre, its very low extensibility
results in stiff, non-stretchy fabric.
• In developing countries, jute is much used for woven
hessian, sacks, packaging and tarpaulins. Figure 2.1
shows a line drawing of a cross-section of C. olitarius
(tossa jute) fibres. Figure 2.2 is a diagrammatic
illustration of a jute stem showing the positions of the
fibre bundles.

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Figure 2.1 Cross-section through jute fibres

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Figure2.2 Diagram of the anatomy of a jute stem

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5. Longitudinal and cross sectional view under
microscope.
• The fibres contain between 61-71% cellulose,
large amount of hemicelluloses (14-20%) and
lignin(12-13%) and pectin (0.2%) [Mather 2011].
• The cross-sections of bundles of jute fibres show
a range in the size and number of fibres per
bundle, in the thickness of the wall and in the
shape and diameter of lumens The fibre is
generally smooth, with some dislocations.
• The individual fibres are mainly polygonal, with
rounded corners and oval to round lumens
(Figure ) [Hearle 1963].

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 Figure 5. a) Longitudinal view (5000× magnification) and
b) cross-section (180× magnification) of jute fibre

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Retting and fibre extraction (Decorticating) and types of
retting.

• jute can be extracted from the plants, they need

to undergo a process called retting. This is
required to eliminate the gummy substances
which cement the fibre to the rest of the tissues
in the stem, and to each other.
• In the case of jute and allied fibres this involves
steeping the stems in water, where enzymes
produced by bacterial action remove the pectin
and gummy materials, after which the fibres can
be stripped from the woody core.

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Retting and fibre extraction (Decorticating) and types of
retting.

• The fibres are then washed and hung out to

dry before being taken to the local market for
sale to balers and exporters.6 Retting takes
between 10 to 20 days, or more depending on
the water and on its temperature.
• Extraction of the fibres from the retted stalks
(decortication)is, in the case of jute and
similar fibres, still usually done manually

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 Manual retting of jute
• In manual decortication the fibres are stripped from
the woody core of the stem using knives.
• In the retting process, the thicker parts of the stem
take longer to rett than the thinner parts.
Consequently, if the butt end of the stem is correctly
retted, the apex will be over-retted and may suffer
damage.
• Retting is therefore terminated when the main part of
the stem is adequately retted, and, if necessary, fibre
from the butt end, which may still have pieces of bark
adhering to it, will be cut off and processed separately
from the `long jute 'as `cuttings'.

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Figure 2.4 Manual stripping of jute fibre from retted
stem.

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The various factors affecting retting of jute and
Mesta
• The various factors affecting retting of jute and Mesta
are types of water, temperature, pH and macro-
nutrients.
1. Types of water:
• In stagnant water, the products of the fermentation
process accumulate near the stems and tend to affect
the colour and luster of the fibre.
• whilst in slow-flowing water these are removed by the
current before they can produce any adverse effects
and the fibre appears very bright and glossy.

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The various factors affecting retting of jute and
Mesta
• In faster, running water, retting is adversely affected.
The inside bundles of the stack of stems, or `juck', ret
faster than the outer stems and this produces fibres of
uneven quality.
• For satisfactory retting, the stem-to-water ratio should
be around 1 : 20. Retting is quicker in soft than in hard
water and the colour and luster of the fibre is
remarkably improved by immersing the stack under
water with bamboo poles and coir ropes.
• Concrete slabs as weights also give excellent results.

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The various factors affecting retting of jute and
Mesta
2. Temperature:
• A temperature of 34 °C is the optimum for good retting.
3. PH value
• with a pH value in the range of 6.0 to 8.0 is the optimum for
good retting.
4. Chemicals:
Various chemicals, particularly nitrogen and phosphorous
compounds, have been tried to boost the retting of jute and
nitrogenous compounds and have proved to be the best
stimulants. In general, cations such as NH4, K, Ca and Mg and
anions such as SO4, NO3 and PO4 have beneficial effects
while chloride ions at high concentrations slow the process
down.

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 Manual retting
Types of manual retting with
advantages and dis advantages

• There are two types of manual retting

1. Conventional or stem retting
2. Ribbon retting

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 Hand ribboning kenaf stems using
bicycle wheel hub

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 Mechanical retting
• Machinery for jute decorticating The Jute
Agricultural Research Institute, Barrackpure,
West Bengal has developed a decorticating
machine15 for the mechanical extraction of jute
fibres.
• The machine is designed to extract and scrape
out barky material from the stems of bast fibre
crops such as jute, Mesta, sunnhemp, urena, etc.
• The machine breaks down the inner woody cores
of the stems into pieces and scrapes the bark,
especially at the root ends of the stalks.

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 Mechanical retting
• The production of commercial fibers by these
machines requires only five or six days including
retting. The capacity of the machine is about a
tonne of green jute plants per hour with a 5 hp
prime- mover.
• Five men are needed to operate the machine,
two for feeding stems into the machine and three
for arranging, bundling and steeping of the
extracted material. If required the capacity of this
machine can be increased.

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 Mechanical retting
• The best stage in the growth of the plant for
decortication is at 115 10 days after germination.
Decortication should be done immediately after
harvesting and can be continued for two to three
days if the stalks are kept under cover.
• Defoliation is not necessary before feeding the
stems into the machine.
• The plants are fed into the machine butt-end first.

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 Mechanical retting
• Two to eight plants are fed into the machine
at a time, depending upon their diameter.
• It has been found that the optimum diameter
for decortication by these machines is around
12mm.
• Improved results are obtained if the stalks are
sorted into two groups; one group of 12mm
diameter and below and the other of 12mm
and above.

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 Fibre sorting for quality
• After retting and decorticating,90 various fibre qualities are
used in trade that differ particularly in the properties of
colour, fineness, strength, density, root proportion and
tendering.
• Both types are sorted into a total of eight categories in
India: `tossa jute' (TD1 to TD8) and `white jute' (W1 to W8).
• In Bangladesh white jute' and `tossa jute' are divided into
five classes (A to E). According to Rowell and Stout91 the
classification of fibres still takes place using organoleptic
methods but as the classification systems are different in
each country international comparison is difficult.

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 Physical and chemical properties
• Physical properties:
• Jute has a moderate strength (30-45 cN/tex),
however it is not as strong as flax or hemp.
• For fibres low extension at break (1-2%) is
characteristic.
• Moisture regain of jute fibres is 12.6%, but it can
absorb up to 23% of water under conditions of
high humidity.
• Jute has high insulating and anti-static properties
and low thermal conductivity

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 Physical and chemical properties
• Chemical properties:
• Retted fibres such as jute have three principal
chemical constituents; alpha-cellulose,
hemicellulose and lignin.
• The lignin can be almost completely removed by
chlorination methods in which a soluble chloro-
lignin complex is formed and the hemicellulose
then dissolved out of the remaining holocellulose
by treatment with dilute alkali.
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 Physical and chemical properties
• The final insoluble residue is the alpha-cellulose
constituent, which invariably contains traces of
sugar residues other than glucose.
• The hemicellulose consists of polysaccharides of
comparatively low molecular weight built up
from hexoses, pentoses and uronic acid residues.
• In jute, capsularis and olitorius have similar
analyses, although small differences occur
between different fibre samples.
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 Physical and chemical properties
• For fibre extracted from jute plants grown in
Bangladesh, the range of composition has
been given as lignin 11.4±12%, alpha-cellulose
58-63% and hemicellulose 21±24%.
• In addition, analysis of the hemicellulose
isolated from alpha cellulose and lignin gives
xylan 8±12.5%, glucoronic acid 3±4%, together
with traces of araban and rhamnosan.

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 Physical and chemical properties
• The insoluble residue of alpha cellulose has the
composition glucosan 55±59%, xylan 1.8±3.0%,
glucoronic acid 0.8±1.2%, together with traces of
galactan, araban, mannan and rahmnosan.
• All percentages refer to the weight of dry fibre.
• As well as the three principal constituents, jute
contains minor constituents such as fats and
waxes 0.4±0.8%, inorganic matter of 0.6±1.2%,
nitrogenous matter 0.8±1.5% and traces of
pigments.
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 Physical and chemical properties
• In total these amount to about 2%. The detailed
molecular structure of the hemicellulose
component is not known with certainty, although
in the isolated material the major part is stated to
consist of a straight chain of D-xylose residues,
with two side branches of D-xylose residues,
whose position and length are uncertain.
• In addition there are other side branches formed
from single residues of 4-0-methyl glucoronic
acid, to the extent of one for every seven xylose
units.

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 Physical and chemical properties
• The third major constituent, lignin, is a long-chain
substance of high molecular weight which, like
hemicellulose, varies in composition from one
type of vegetable material to another.
• The molecular chains are built up from
comparatively simple organic units that may
differ from different sources, and also in the way
in which they are combined.
• Most of the studies in lignin have been concerned
with wood and the bast fibres have been rather
neglected.

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11. Flowchart diagram for yarn production from
jute fibre

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 yarn production from jute fibre
• Selection of jute
• In the selection process, raw jute bales opened to
find out any defect and to remove the defective
portion by workers.
• Raw jute bales are of two types i.e. 150kg weight
and 180kg weight with or without top portion
cutting.
• The bales are assorted according to end use like
Hessian weft, Sacking warp, Sacking weft etc.
• After selections, jute bale are carried to softening
section
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 yarn production from jute fibre
• Softening & Lubricating
• In softening process of jute are made soft and pileable.
• Two methods are used for softening; use of softening
machine and use of jute good spreader.
• Generally an emulsion plant with jute softener
machine is used to lubricate and soften the bark and
gummy raw jute.
• The emulsion plant consists of gear pump, motor, vat
jet sprayer, nozzles, emulsion tank and the jacket.
• In this softening process jute becomes soft and pileable
and suitable for carding.

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 yarn production from jute fibre
• Conditioning/Piling
• The main function of pile breaker is to break the
pile and serve it to the carding machines.
• The softener machine output material carried by
pile men through bile to the pile place for pilling.
• During piling superficial moisture penetrates
inside fiber and “Thermo fillip” action take place
which soften the hard portion of the root.

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 yarn production from jute fibre
• Conditioning/Piling
• After pilling for nearly 24 hours the pile
breakers carry the material to the carding
machine.
• Generally root cutting is done after piling near
the hand feed breaker carding machine.
• The root weight varies from 5 to 7% of the
total weight of jute.

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 yarn production from jute fibre
• Carding (Breaker & Finisher)
• Carding is a combining operation where jute
reeds are splitted and extraneous matters are
removed.
• Jute fibers are formed into ribbon called”
sliver”.
• There are three different carding section;(1)
Breaker Carding (2)Inner Carding (3)Finisher
Carding.
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 yarn production from jute fibre
• Breaker Carding;
• In different jute mills the carding operations
has been carried out in tow ways:
• a. Hand feed breaker carding.
• b. Roll feed breaker carding.
• The material after piling more than 24 hours is
used hand feed breaker where the material
after piling for 12 hours used in the roll feed
carding.
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 yarn production from jute fibre
• In the breaker carding machine soften jute
after piling is feed by hand in suitable weight.
• The machine by action with different rollers
turns out raw jute in the form of jute silver for
finisher carding.
• In this process root cutting is necessary before
feeding the material to the hand feed breaker
carding machine.

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 yarn production from jute fibre
• Finisher Carding:
• Finisher carding machine make the sliver more
uniform and regular in length and weight
obtained from the Breaker carding machine.
• Finisher carding machine is identical to the
breaker carding machine, having more pair of
rollers, staves, pinning arrangement and speed.
• Nearly 4 to 12 slivers obtained from Breaker
carding machine is fed on this machine.
• The material thus obtained is send to drawing
section.
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 yarn production from jute fibre
• Drawing:
• Drawing is a process for reducing sliver width
and thickness by simultaneously mixing 4 to 6
sliver together.
• There are three types of Drawing Frame
machine.
• In most mills three Drawing passages are used
in Hessian and two Drawing passages are used
in sacking.
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 yarn production from jute fibre
• First Drawing:
• The slivers obtained from finisher carding
machine is fed with four slivers on to the first
drawing frame machine.
• The first drawing frame machines makes
blending, equalizing the sliver and doubling two
or more slivers, level and provide quality and
colour.
• This machines includes delivery roller, pressing
roller, retaining roller, faller screw sliders, check
spring, back spring, crimpling box.
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 yarn production from jute fibre
• Second Drawing:
• In the second Drawing Frame machine obtain the sliver
from the First drawing machine and use six slivers and
deliveries per head. The second Drawing machine
make more uniform sliver and reduce the jute into a
suitable size for third drawing.
• Third Drawing:
• In the Third Drawing frame machine uses the sliver
from second drawing.
• The Third Drawing machine is of high speed makes the
sliver more crimpled and suitable for spinning.
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 yarn production from jute fibre
• Spinning:
• Spinning is the process for producing yarn from
sliver obtained from Third drawing.
• In the spinning process sliver are elongated and
fibers are twisted into yarn to impart strength.
• Spun yarns in the spinning process are wound
onto bobbins.
• The entire time is called an average cycle time.
The time for replacing the bobbins full of yarn by
empty bobbins is called softening time.

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 yarn production from jute fibre
• The jute spinning frame machine is fitted with slip draft
zone and capable of producing quality yarns at high
efficiency with auto-doting arrangements also.
• A 4 pitch slip-draft sliver frames available of 20
spindles 100 spindles, having a production range 8 lbs
to 28 lbs with a flyer speed of 3200 to 4000 Rpm.
• Spinning of several types of yarn is processed by
spinning frame machine using different kinds of
bobbins, such as; Food grade HFC, Sacking Warp,
Hessian Warp, and Hessian Weft.

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 yarn production from jute fibre
• Winding:
• Winding is a process which provides yarn as
spools and cops for the requirement of
bearing and weaving operations.
• There are two type of winding:
• 1. Spool Winding
• 2. Cop Winding

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 yarn production from jute fibre
• 1. Spool Winding.
• In Spool Winding yarn is produces for warp (the
longitudinal yarn). Spool Winding machine
consists of a number of spindles.
• There is wide variation in the number of spindles
per machines from one make to another.
Productivity of spool winding depends on the
surface speed of the spindle and machine
utilization.
• Spool winding machine uses the bobbins contain
smaller length of yarn.
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 yarn production from jute fibre
• This machine wound the yarn into bigger
packages known as spool.
• The spool are used in making sheets of yarn to
form warp portion used during interlacements of
weaving.
• 2. Cop Winding.
• Cop Winding machine obtain yarn from the
spinning machines.
• The spinning bobbins are placed on a suitable pin
on top of the cop machine and yarn tension is
maintained by means of a small leaver.
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 yarn production from jute fibre
• The yarn on bobbins is converted into hollow
cylindrical package said to be cop.
• The cop is used to form Transverse thread during
interlacement of weaving. Generally a cop
winding machines consist 120 spindles.
• Beaming/Dressing:
• Beaming process is follows after spool winding.
• In beaming operation yarn from spool is
wounded over a beam of proper width and
correct number of end to weave jute cloth.

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 yarn production from jute fibre
• To increase the quality of woven cloth and weaving
efficiency, the warp yarns are coated with starch paste.
Adequate moisture is essential in this process.
• Quality characteristic of a beam is width of beam-
number of ends and weight of stand and there is a
continuous passage of yarn through starch solution
from spools to the beam.
• Starch solution in water contains tamerine kernel
powder (TKP), antisepticsodium silica fluoride (NaSiF4)
and its concentration varies with the quality of yarn.

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 Weaving process
• Weaving:
• Weaving is a process of interlacement of two
series of threads called warp and weft yarns to
produce the fabric of desired quality.
• There are separate looms for Hessian and
Sacking in weaving section.
• The Hessian looms, shuttle which contents cops
(weft yarn) is manually changed.
• The sacking looms are equipped with eco-loader
to load a cop automatically into the shuttle.

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 Cloth production
• Damping:
• Damping is a manual process in which the rolled
woven cloth is unrolled and water is sprinkled on
it continuously to provide desired moisture. Each
roll is generally 104 yards or 96 meters.
• Calendaring:
• Calendaring is a process similar to ironing of
fabric. After damping the damped fabric passes
through pairs of heavy rollers rendering threads
in fabric flattened and improve the quality and
appearance.
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 Cloth production
• Lapping:
• Lapping is the process in which Hessian fabrics are
folded into the required size used in Bale press
operation on the lapping machine.
• Cutting, Hemming/Heracles sewing:
• Cutting is the process where the sacking/Hessian cloth
is cut to the required length for making bags for
different size and capacity.
• In Hemming process, the raw edges of jute cloth cut
pieces are shown by folding it with sewing machine. In
Heracles sewing the side of sacking cloth cut pieces are
shown to make complete bags.

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 Cloth production
• Baling:
• After the bags are stitched or Hessian lumps
as the case may be, they are piled and packed
in standard packing as per requirement and is
baled by iron strip applying hydraulic force
into hydraulic bale pressing machine

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 End uses
• Uses:
• Core uses: Twine and rope, sackings, carpets,
wrapping fabrics (cotton bale), and the
construction fabric manufacturing industry.
• It can be used in curtains, chair coverings,
carpets, are rugs, Hessian cloth, and backing for
linoleum. Other uses include espadrilles, floor
coverings, home textiles, high performance
textiles, geotextiles and composites.
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 End uses
• The jute is being replaced by synthetic
materials in many of these uses, jute is still
valuable due to its biodegradable nature.
Synthetics are not suitable in some cases.
• Twine and Rope: A very popular use; jute
fibers are used alone or blended with other
types of fibers to make twine and rope.

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 End uses
• Paper: Jute fibers can be turned into pulp and
with increasing concern over forest destruction
for the wood pulp used to make most paper, the
importance of jute for this purpose may increase.
• Textile machineries: Such as textile fibers having
cellulose (vegetable fiber content) and lignin
(wood fiber content). Just is applied in the
automobile, pulp and paper, and the furniture
and bedding industries to manufacture non-
woven, technical textile, and composites.

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 End uses
• Home textiles: Jute has many advantages in
home textile, either replacing cotton or blending
with it.
• It is a strong, durable, color and lightfast fiber. Its
UV protection, sound and heat insulation, low
thermal condition and antistatic properties are
advantageous.
• Jute fibers are also carbon dioxide neutral,
naturally decomposable and can be used in high
performance technical materials.
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 End uses
• Fabrics: Jute can be used for Hessian cloth, sacking, scrim ,
carpet backing cloth (CBC), canvas and even blended to
make silk.
• Hessian, lighter than sacking, is used for bags, wrappers,
wall-coverings, upholstery, and home furnishings. Sacking,
a fabric made of heavy jute fibers, has its use in the name.
• Geotextiles: Made jute more popular in the agricultural
sector.
• It is a lightly woven fabric made from natural fibers that is
used for soil erosion control, seed protection, weed control,
and many other agricultural and landscaping uses.

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