Chemicals for Beauty

a safety perspective

Prof Lukman Hakim PhD

Faculty of Pharmacy, UGM
 Criteria for Safety :
Animal tests

1. In Vitro
2. Mikrobiologi (for preservative)
3. Toksikologi umum
a. Akut (LD50)
Biological
b. Sub-akut : 14 & 28 hari
c. Sub-kronis : 90 hari Extrapolasi
effects in
d. Kronis : 2 tahun humans
4. Toksikologi khusus
- dermato-test : cosmetics
- carcinogenesis : coloring agents,
sweeteners, Do the tests conform
preservatives. for humans ?
 Chemicals in Cosmetics

• Safety : test dermatologi (alergi, iritasi) pada hewan

yang sensitif dan manusia, carcinogenisitas.
• Untuk bahan berbahaya, dosis dan lama pemakaian
hendaknya dibatasi.
• Pemalsuan/permasalahan kosmetik:
– Wadah dan packing asli, isinya dipalsukan.
– Dipasarkan bebas dan online (ada ijin BPOM)--?
– Content dirahasiakan, tidak disebutkan pada label.
 Hair coloring

Content Possible effects

Para-phenylenediamine Allergy, potential carcinogen
Coal tar dye (75%) Allergy, potential carcinogen
Possible carcinogen and
Lead acetate
Serious neurological problems (banned in Europe)
DM hydantoin (preservative) Has been linked to immune system problems
Can be toxic and corrosive
Ammonia
May cause respiratory problems
Resorcinol Can be an irritant
A potential carcinogen.
Heyne Claimed as a herbal coloring agent
 Chemicals Cosmetic products Safety
Butylated Lip products, hair products, Endocrine disruption, organ-system toxicity,
hydroxyanisole makeup, sunscreen, developmental and reproductive toxicity,
(BHA) & antiperspirant/deodorant, cancer, irritation.
Butylated fragrance, creams
hydroxytoluene
(BHT)
Carbon black Eyeliner, mascara, nail polish, Carbon black has organic contaminants such
eye shadow, brush-on-brow, as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs)
lipstick, blushers, rouge, which is carcinogen
makeup, and foundation

Coal tar (mixed Shampoos and scalp According to FDA, any drug products
benzene, toluene, treatments, soaps, hair dyes, containing coal tar at levels of 0.5-5% (the
naphthalene, and lotions level deemed effective and safe) must
anthracene, specify on a label the concentration of coal
xylene, creosote tar.
oils and
benzo[a]pyrene
Formaldehyde Nail polish, nail glue, eyelash Cancer, skin irritation
and glue, hair gel, hair-smoothing
formaldehyde- products, baby shampoo,
 Chemicals Cosmetic products
Ethanolamine Soaps, shampoos, hair
compounds conditioners and dyes,
(MEA, DEA, TEA lotions, shaving creams,
and others) paraffin and waxes,
household cleaning products,
pharmaceutical ointments,
eyeliners, mascara, eye
shadows, blush, make-up
bases, foundations,
fragrances, sunscreens
Hydroquinone Skin lighteners, facial and
skin cleansers, facial
moisturizers, hair
conditioners, finger nail
coating products.
Triclosan and Antibacterial soaps and
triclocarban detergents, toothpaste and
tooth whitening products,
antiperspirants/deodorants,
shaving products, creams,
color cosmetics.
Safety
In cosmetics formulations, DEA may react
with other ingredients to form a carcinogen
called nitrosodiethanolamine (NDEA) which
is absorbed through the skin.
Bioaccumulation: 52 to 68 % of DEA in hair
dyes, body lotions and shampoos remain on
the upper layers of the skin after exposure
Cancer, organ-system toxicity, respiratory
tract irritation.
Endocrine disruption, triclosan-resistant
bacteria, environmental toxicity
(bioaccumulation). In 2005 FDA found no
evidence that antibacterial washes
containing either triclosan or triclocarban
were superior to plain soap for protecting
 Skin Hydrating & Whitening effects of Vitamin C
and Glutathione in Asian skin types

• Most patients (n=270, 95.4%) perceived a certain degree of skin hydration

and whitening after six Vit C and GSH intravenous injections.
• Most patients were satisfied (mean score 5 out of 7) with the results,
without experiencing any serious adverse event.
• But, duration of treatment results depends on 3
important factors:
– Environmental UV light exposure (an outdoor job vs indoor job)
– Amount of protection against UV light (patients were advised to carry an
umbrella when walking under the sun)
– Genetic conditions (patients with eczema tend to visit the clinic monthly
for maintenance).