Impulse

BE THE BENCHMARK

A BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO
FABRICS
POINTS TO COVER

1.INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE

2. FLOW CHART OF SPINNING LINE

3. WIDING

4. WARPING

5. SIZING

6.DRAWING IN

7. WEAVING

8.DIFFERENT WEAVE DESIGN POSSIBLE ON WEAVING MACHINE

9. WEAVING MACHINE
 INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE
Textile refers to a general term applied to any manufacture from fibres, filaments or
yarns characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of Length to thickness

FIBRE-

In term of textile term “fibre” refers to a unit of matter which is capable of being spun into yarn
or made into fabric.

CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBRE-

1. Natural Fibres- Cotton ,Wool ,Flex ,Silk

2. Regenerated Fibres- Rayon ,Acetate

3. Synthetic Fibres- Polyester, Nylon, Glass

Chart Representation Of Classification Of Fibres
YARN-
Yarn is the term of continuous stand of textile fiber which is suitable for making
fabric.

CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE YARN-

1. Single yarn
2. Plied yarn
3. Fancy yarn
4. Cabled yarn
5. High bulk yarn

• Spinning is the process which is required to convert the raw textile fibre into
yarn.

• This needs to be done with the help of respective textile machine processes to get
the desired
outcome of the yarn.
FLOW CHART OF SPINNING LINE (COMBED YARN)

Collection of Fibre Bale

↓
Blow Room (LAP)
↓
Carding Machine(CARRDED SLIVER)
↓
Draw Frame(D/F SLIVER)
↓
Lap former(SMALL LAPS)
↓
Comber(COMBED SLIVER)
↓
Simplex (ROVING)
↓
Ring Frame(YARN)
↓
Auto Coner(YARN PACKAGE)
↓
Yarn Package Shipping
Video
 WINDING

The formation of big yarn packages which can be smoothly unwound, during warping process is
known as winding.

There are 3 types of wound packages based on the angle yarns are laid on the package-
1.Parellel wound package

In these type of packages yarns are laid parallel

to each other
2.Nearly parallel wound package

In these type of package the successive coil

laid at very nominal angle

3.Cross wound package

In these packages yarns are laid at

appreciable helix angle
 OBJECTIVES OF THE WINDING PROCESS-

1. Inspect the yarn

2. Clearing of defects

3. Lubricate the yarn

4. Package the yarn

Figure- Schematic Diagram of winding mechanism

THE WINDING MECHANISM FOR CROSS WINDING IS MAINLY OF TWO TYPES

1. Drum Driven or Random Winding

2. Spindle Driven or Precision Winding

Drum Driven or Random Winding-

In drum-driven wider, the package is driven by a cylinder by surface or frictional contact.
Traverse of yarn is given either by the grooves cut on the drum or by a reciprocating guide.

In case of grooved drum, the drum performs the dual functions of rotating the package by
surface contact and performing the traverse. However, when plain drums are used, it just
rotates the package and traverse is performed by reciprocating guide.

Figure- (A)-Dual function of groove drum , (B)-Plain drum for rotating and groove for traversing the yarn.
Spindle Driven or Precision Winding

In spindle-driven winder, the package is mounted on a spindle which is driven positively by

a gear system.

If the RPM of the spindle is constant then the surface speed of the package will increase
with the increase in package diameter

In case of the latter, the spindle r.p.m. is reduced with the increase in package diameter
in such a manner that the winding speed remains constant.

Figure- Spindle driven Winding Mechanism

 WARPING

Warping is transferring many yarns from a creel of the single end package forming a
parallel sheet of the yarn wound on to a beam.

OBJECTIVE OF WARPING-
1. It also used to make reusable small winding packages.
2. It is used to expand the required quality of warp yarn.
3. It is used to expand the weave-ability of warp yarn during fabric manufacturing.
4. It is used to make suitable warp yarn sheet for the next process named sizing.
5. It is used to wind definite length of warp yarn in the warp beam.
6. It helps to increase fabric manufacturing production.
WARPING CAN BE FURTHER CLASSIFIED INTO-

1. Sectional or Pattern Warping

2. Direct warping

Sectional Warping-

In this method , the warp ends are first wrapped on the warping drum and then transferred
on the weaver’s beam.

This warping method is mostly used for warping of multi plies yarn, multicolor warp,
continuous filament yarns.

Since the warp ends are wrapped over the drum in number of sections, so that warping with
less no. of warp packages is possible in this method.
SECTIONAL WARPING DRUM AND BEAM
 DIRECT WARPING

In this method of warping, single colour (mono colour) in warping is used generally.

It is mainly used to prepare the warp of single ply yarn.

Multi-plies warp can also be used in this warping. 

The warp yarn from these beams is transferred on the weaver’s beam during sizing.

Figure- Direct Warping System with v-type magazine creel

PARTS OF WARPING MACHINE WITH THEIR RESPECTIVE FUNCTIONS-

PARTS OF CREEL WITH THEIR FUNCTION-

1. Yarn clearer-
It help in removing different yarn faults like slub and neps.

2. Stop motion device-

it is an electronic devise which helps to stop the machine when the end
broke accidently.

3. Digital indicator-
It help in indicating yarn breakage in the respective
package.

4. Yarn guide-
It allow the yarn of the package to pass in a specific way.

5. Blower or Suction Fan-

It help to remove the dust and dirt from the yarn
PART OF HEAD STOCK AND THEIR FUNCTION-

1. Adjustable V-wrath
Warp beam weight is controlled by this device.

2. Break assembly-
It help the machine to stop in case of end breakdown.

3. Stop motion
When required length is filled on beam, then it stops the machine.

5. Lease rod-
It help to separate the warp sheet with even and odd no. of yarns.
 SIZING

Sizing is process of application of sizing paste on to the beam which imparts

strength and increases the abrasion resistant so that the breakage in the yarn
threads will decrease during the further process.

Sizing agents are selected on the basis of type of fabric, environmental friendliness,
ease of removal, cost considerations, effluent treatment etc.

Effect of Sizing on Yarn Properties

1.Yarn elasticity decreases.
2.Yarn strength increase.
3.Flexibility of yarn decrease.
4.Smoothness of yarn increases.
5.Irregularity of yarn decreases.
6.Yarn diameter increase.
7.Yarn weight increases.
 OBJECTIVE OF SIZING

1.To protect the yarn from abrasion

2.To improve the breaking strength of the yarn

3.To increase smoothness of yarn

4.To increase yarn elasticity

5.To decrease hairiness

6.To decrease the generation of static electricity

Figure- Sizing Machine

 SIZING PROCESS

The sizing is a preparatory process of weaving which comes after warping.

In this process, the warp sheet gets immersed in the paste of adhesive and binder, then the
warp is squeezed properly to eliminate excess amount of adhesive.

Now the warp is dried and the ends are separated from each other. Now the warp ends are
wound on the weaver’s beam.

During sizing process, warp yarn passes under moderate tension. This tension causes some
stretch in the yarn, thus elongation of yarn after sizing gets reduced.

Many types of sizing agents are used in sizing process to improve various properties of yarn.
This process is carried out carefully and precisely. Improper and poor sizing results many
difficulties in weaving.

The amount of size pick-up is applied according to the yarn parameters used in warp yarn.
Selection of correct sizing ingredients plays major role in the quality performance of sizing.
 DRAWING IN

The drawing-in process comes just after the preparation of weaver’s beam. The weaver’s
beam is obtained from sectional warping or sizing.

The drawing-in process mainly consists of two processes. The first process is called
drafting and second process is called denting.

It is mostly performed manually but in large scale textile industries, automatic drawing-in
machines are used, where more productivity is required.

DRAWING IN CONSIST OF -

1. Drafting

2. Denting

3. Knotting(Additional)
1. DRAFTING-

• A process of passing the end through the eye of heald wire or harness according
to the draft (sequence of drafting the ends) is called drafting”.

• When the drafting is performed manually, two persons do this job.

• The person who selects the ends and presents them for drawing is called Reacher.

• The person who draws the ends through the eye of heald wire with the help of drawing
hook is called Drawer.
2. DENTING-

• When the drafting of the ends is completed, these ends are passed through the dent of
reed.

• We can say that “denting is the process of passing the ends through the dents
of reed according to the denting order of the fabric to be woven”.

• It can be performed by single person or two person.

• In case of two persons, one person selects the ends and presents it to the other person
who passes these ends through the dents of reed.
3.KNOTTING-

When the fabric design is repeated on the same loom after weaver’s beam exhaustion,
there is no need to perform drawing-in process on that loom.

The tying process is used to replace the exhausted weaver’s beam with new weaver’s
beam.

Tying or knotting is the process of joining the ends of exhausted weaver’s beam with the
ends of new weaver’s beam.

It is performed manually or mechanically. When it is performed manually, it is

called “piecing”. When it is performed mechanically, it is called “knotting”.
 SO WHAT BASICALLY TERM WEAVING MEANS

Weaving is the action of producing fabric by the interlacing of warp and weft thread.
The warp threads are placed along the length of the fabric and the weft threads are
placed along the width of the fabric.

Figure- Pictorial representation of warp an weft threads

 PRIMARY MOTIONS OF WEAVING LOOM
MECHANISM

Primary Motions-

These are fundamental or essential mechanisms of loom. Without these

mechanisms, it is practically impossible to produce a fabric. It is for this reason
that these mechanisms are called ‘primary’ mechanisms.

The Primary Mechanisms are further classified into-

1. Shedding mechanism

2. Picking mechanism

3. Beat-up mechanism
 SHEDDING

The Shedding Mechanism separates the warp threads into two layers or divisions

to form a tunnel known as ‘shed’. The shed provides room for passage of the shuttle.
A shed may be formed by means of tappets, dobby and jacquard.

Figure - Alternative Heald frame moves up and down to form a shed

 PICKING

The Picking Mechanism passes weft thread from one selvedge of the fabric to the
other through the shed by means of a shuttle, a projectile, a rapier, an air-jet or a
water-jet. The inserted weft thread is known as “pick”.

Figure - Weft is inserted through the passage formed by alternative warp yarns
 BEAT-UP

The Beat-up Mechanism beats or pushes the newly inserted length of weft thread
(pick) into the already woven fabric at a point known as “fell of the cloth”. These three
mechanisms namely shedding, picking and then beat-up are done in sequence.

Figure - Reed bar pushes the last inserted weft till the cloth fell position
 SECONDARY MOTIONS OF WEAVING LOOM MECHANISM

This mechanism is responsible to have an uninterrupted manufacturing of fabrics

during weaving on the loom.

The Secondary Mechanisms are further classified into-

1. Take-Up Motion

2. Let-off Motion
 TAKE-UP MOTION

The objective of take-up is to draw forward the woven cloth as a new pick is inserted
in order to maintain the line of fabric formation and pick spacing constant.

The main part of the mechanism is the take up rollers, which draws the cloth at the
regular rate, and the number of picks per inch decides this rate.

The take up roller is covered with emery cloth or hard rubber depending upon the
type of cloth woven. The drive to the take up roller is by a train of gear wheels put
into motion directly from the main shaft.

LET-OFF MOTION

The let-off motion delivers the warp to the weaving area at the required rate and at
constant tension by unwinding it from the weaver’s beam.

The secondary motions are carried out simultaneously.

The speed of the servo motor is transmitted to warp beam gear via reduction gear,
thus driving beam.
 REPRESENTATION OF SECONDARY MOTION ON LOOM

Figure - LET-OFF MOTION can be seen at the Weavers beam position and TAKE UP MOTION can be seen at
Cloth Roll position.
FUNCTIONS OF TAKE-UP MOTION
1.To wind the woven fabric on the cloth roller with
continuous progress of weaving.

2.To maintain uniform picks per inch

3. To ensure uniform pick spacing through out the

fabric.

FUNCTION OF LET-OFF MOTION FIGURE- SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM OF TAKE-UP MECHANISM

1. To maintain the necessary tension upon the warp.

2. To unwind and deliver the required amount of warp

sheet from the warp beam .

3. The warp should be supplied in lengths that exactly

correspond with those drawn away by the taking up
roller.

4. To influence the no. of picks per unit space in a

fabric being subsidiary to take up motion.

FIGURE - SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM OF ELECTRIC LET-OFF MECHANISM

 AUXILLIARY MOTIONS OF WEAVING LOOM
MECHANISM
In order to produce a high quality fabric, increase productivity of loom and to prevent
damages it is necessary to use some stop motions which is provided on the loom. They
are called as auxiliary motions.

There are various types of Auxiliary motions of loom.

1.Warp stop motion-

Warp stop motion stop the loom when a drop wire fall as the result of warp end slack or break.

2.Weft stop motion-

Weft stop motion enables to stop the loom when a weft thread breaks or gets exhausted. In case
the loom is allowed to run even after the weft breaks there will be no woven cloth except long
threads of warp. This motion helps to avoid cracks in a fabric. 

3.Warp protector mechanism-

Warp protector mechanism will stop the loom to prevent excessive damage to the warp threads,
cloth, and reed if the weft carrier becomes trapped between the top and bottom of the shed lines
and the reed. 
4.Temple
Temples helps to grip the cloth and hold it at the same width as the warp in the reed,
before it is taken up. It may be made of wood or metal. Metal is useful for rugs.

5.Weft replenishment / Weft mixing motion,

Weft replenishment ensures a continuous supply of weft yarn to the loom whenever
supply package exhausted. 

9.Feeler motion
A centralized lubrication control and dispensing system.
 DIFFERENT WEAVE DESIGN POSSIBLE ON WEAVING MACHINE

1. PLAIN
WEAVE
It is one of the simplest and the strongest weave

Each weft yarn goes alternately over and under one warp
yarn. Each warp yarn goes alternately over and under
each weft yarn.

2. Matt Weave

Matt weave is a variation of plain weave with two

warp thread passing over two warp thread instead of
a single yarn giving a unique checkerboard-like
appearance.
3.Twill Weave

Twill weave is responsible for the diagonal pattern

in the fabric. Depending on the technique used in
the weave, the diagonal pattern will get different
patches.

4. Herringbone Weave

Herringbone is a variation of the twill weave. The

pattern is called herringbone as it resembles that of
the skeleton of herringbone fish
5. Dobby weave

Dobby weave is the combination of several

different thicknesses of yarn and weave technique.

6. Satin weave

The satin weave has weft floating or overshot warp

threads on the surface which gives the fabric a
shiny surface and visa versa on known as sateen
weave.

7.  Jacquard Weave
weave The Jacquard loom is a weaving mechanism done in special
looms which can control individual warp threads producing
fabrics having complicated woven patterns such as brocade,
damask, tapestry etc.
 WEAVING MACHINE

A Weaving Machine is a device used to weave cloth and tapestry. The basic
purpose is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of
the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and its mechanics may vary, but
the basic function is the same.

Weaving Machines can be further classified into-

1. Shuttle Looms-

The shuttle loom is the oldest type of weaving loom which uses a shuttle which contains a
bobbin of filling yarn that appears through a hole situated in the side. The shuttle is batted
across the loom and during this process, it leaves a trail of the filling at the rate of about 110
to 225 picks per minute (ppm).

Figure- Weft carrier in shuttle loom

Advantages of Shuttle loom-

1. Shuttle looms are more economical as compared to shuttle less looms

2. It is suitable for low scale production type industries
3. Easy to operate
4. Robust is nature

Disadvantage of shuttle looms-

5. Produce noise in working space

6. Shuttle can abrade the weft yarn inserted
7. Production rate is low as compared to shuttle looms
8. Shuttle sometimes fly out from the race board.

2. Shuttle less looms-

In shuttle less loom the weft is driven with the help of either of one mechanism that is
projectile, rapier, water jet or air jet. These looms have more production rate as
compared to the shuttle looms.
Shuttle less looms are named as per their weft carrier mechanisms, some of them are
listed as follows-

1. Projectile Weaving Machine-

In this weaving machine in which the weft thread is gripped by jaw(s) fitted in a
projectile, which is then propelled through the shed.

It has a small hook-like device that grips the end of the filling yarn. It is sometimes
called missile loom as the picking action is done by a series of small bullet like
projectiles which hold the weft yarn and carry it through the shed and then return
empty.

Figure- Projectile weaving Machine Figure- Weft carrier of projectile

machine
2. Rapier Weaving Machine
Rapier loom is a shuttle less weaving loom in which the filling yarn is carried through the
shed of warp yarns to the other side of the loom by finger like carriers called rapiers.

A stationary package of yarn is used to supply the weft yarns in the rapier machine. One
end of a rapier, a rod or steel tape, carries the weft yarn. The other end of the rapier is
connected to the control system .

The rapier moves across the width of the fabric, carrying the weft yarn across through
the shed to the opposite side. The rapier is then retracted, leaving the new filling in
place.

Figure –Weft inserting with the help of positively driven rigid rapiers Figure- Weft carrier of rapier machine
3. Airjet Weaving Machine
The main principle of Airjet weaving machine is that a yarn is prepared of required length
dependent on the reed width by the help of pre-measuring weft carrier and is launched with
the help of jet of compressed air.

The Air Jet weaving machines are the weaving machines with the highest weft insertion
performance and are considered as the most productive in the manufacturing of light to
medium weight fabrics, preferably made of cotton and certain man-made fibers.

A special type of reed is used in air jet waving so that air and weft can be guided with the help
of tunnel shape of profile reed.
4. Water-jet Weaving Machine
Working principle of water jet looms are similar as per Airjet loom, in this jet of water
is used to transmit weft from one end to another.

The process is unsuitable for yarns of hydrophilic fibers because the fabric picks up
too much moisture. They are restricted to filament yarns of acetate, nylon, polyester,
and glass;

In this technique a water jet is shot under force and, with it, a weft yarn. The force of
the water as it is propelled across the shed carries the yarn to the opposite side.

Figure- Pitch shorten Water jet nozzle

Thank You