Knot

A knot is an intentional complication in cordage

which may be useful or decorative. Practical knots
may be classified as hitches, bends, splices, or knots.
A hitch fastens a rope to another object;
a bend unites two rope ends; a splice is a multi-
strand bend or loop. A knot in the strictest sense
serves as a stopper or knob at the end of a rope to
keep that end from slipping through a grommet or
eye.
Knot Methodology
 Tying a knot in a rope immediately reduces its strength
to between 50% and less of the unknotted rope, but
obviously knots have to be tied to use the rope.
 The tying on knots are often secured with an overhand
knot tied with the tail of the rope around the live rope.
 A tail of at least 15cm must be left after the knot is tied.
 Only the standard bowline requires this precaution to be
safe, however with the other knots it provides
reassurance that sufficient tail has been left after the
knot is tied.
 Prusik Knot
Uses:
The principal use of a Prusik
Knot is allowing a rope to be
climbed – ascending or
“Prusiking“. Two Prusik loops
are alternately slid up the
static rope: a long Prusik loop
reaches the climber’s foot – to
allow leg power for ascending,
and a second short Prusik loop
is attached to the harness – to
allow sitting. In rescue work, if
a climber has to be pulled up, a
Prusik loop can hold a pulley
block purchase system on a
climbing rope.
 Clove Hitch (Rope End)

A simple all-purpose hitch.

Easy to tie and untie. A useful
and easy to tie knot, the Clove
Hitch is a good binding knot.
However, as a hitch it should
be used with caution because it
can slip or come undone if the
object it is tied to rotates or if
constant pressure is not
maintained on the line.
Bowline Knot
Uses:
The Bowline makes a reasonably
secure loop in the end of a piece
of rope. It has many uses, e.g.,
to fasten a mooring line to a ring
or a post. Under load, it does
not slip or bind. With no load it
can be untied easily. Two
bowlines can be linked together
to join two ropes. Its principal
shortcoming is that it cannot be
tied, or untied, when there is a
load on the standing end. It
should therefore be avoided
when, for example, a mooring
line may have to be released
under load.
Double Fisherman’s

Uses:

The Double Fisherman’s

is the way to join two ends of a
line to form a Prusik Loop and is
also an excellent and reliable
way of joining two climbing
ropes. It can be used for a full
rope-length abseil; after which
it should still be possible to
retrieve the rope.
Figure 8 Knot
Uses:

The Figure 8 Knot provides a

quick and convenient stopper
knot to prevent a line sliding
out of sight, e.g., up inside the
mast. Its virtue is that, even
after it has been jammed
tightly against a block, it
doesn’t bind; it can be undone
easily. This virtue is also,
occasionally, a vice. The Figure
8 Knot can fall undone and
then has to be retied.
Figure 8 Bend
Uses:

The Figure 8 Bend, provides a

safe, and simple way to join
two ropes. It is reasonably easy
to remember, tie, and check.
Figure 8 Directional Loop

Uses:

The directional figure
eight (a.k.a. inline figure-
eight loop) is a loop knot. It is
a knot that can be made on
the bight. The loop must only
be loaded in the correct
direction or the knot may fail.
It is useful on a hauling line to
create loops that can be used
as handholds.
Figure 8 Follow Loop

Uses:

The Figure 8 Follow
Loop allows the simple and
reliable Figure 8 loop to be
tied to a ring, a carabiner, or
your own harness. It is
reasonably easy to
remember, tie, and check. 
Alpine Butterfly Loop

Uses:

The Alpine Butterfly Loop

is useful anytime a
secure loop is required in
the middle of a rope. 
Double Overhand Stoppper

Uses:

The Double Overhand

Stopper Knot is based on
the Overhand Knot with
one additional turn. It
creates a reliable,
moderately large, stopper
knot.
Hand Cuffed Knot
Use:
In Search and Rescue
Operations, the Handcuff
Knot is avoided because of
the inherent danger
of damage to the victim.
However, it is worth
considering if there is no
other way of rescuing
someone trapped, e.g., in a
crevice or in a hole below
grade. The two loops are
placed around the wrists or
the ankles. The two ends are
then pulled to tighten the
loops for traction. The
Handcuff Knot can also be
used to restrain an animal or
drag an animal carcass.
Water Knot

Uses:

In climbing it is used to
join two pieces of
webbing strapping.
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