Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Sarwat Halima Saima Habib Sadia Amin
Sarwat Halima Saima Habib Sadia Amin
Sarwat Halima Saima Habib Sadia Amin
Saima
Habib Sadia
Amin
What I do is restricted by the cloth and the
human body.
My job is to make that cloth give expression to
the body.’
(Vivienne
Westwood)
April 1941 is an English fashion designer and
businesswoman, largely responsible for
bringing modern punk and new wave fashions
into the mainstream.
Garment making is a technical accomplishment
that requires knowledge of fabrics, principles of
clothing construction and skills involved in it.
This depends on the ability to select the correct
fabric, color, design and accessories to suit an
individual occasion.
A garment that is made will be attractive if it
fits well and proper attention is paid to its finer
details.
It is necessary to know the techniques of sewing
for producing attractive garments with good
fit.
Perhaps the most obvious function of dress is
to provide warmth and protection.
Other basic functions of dress include
identifying the wearer and making the
wearer appear more attractive.
Clothes that are deemed handsome in one
period are declared downright ugly in the
next and even uniforms—the simplest and
most easily identified costume—are subject
to change.
One of the earliest theories which
formed the hypotheses of wearing clothes
was the modesty/shame theory.
This theory is also known as the fig leaf
theory which is based on the story in the
Bible. Genesis states that Adam and Eve
realize that their state of being naked
when they consume a fruit from the
knowledge tree. And in shame they both
stitched clothes out of fig leaves, hence
the name fig leaf theory.
Arguments said that clothing was merely
because of protection of one's body from the
threats in the environment.
Clothing was discovered eons ago. A
discovery of a 500-year old male on a glacier
on the Austrian-Italian border revealed
such. The body was clad in a fur cap, a
leather cape, a loincloth, and leather
shoes.
These clothes were possibly there to
provide protection against the harsh
winds.
Other arguments stated
that clothing was
created to create
sexual attraction or to
display beauty of one's
body.
It is discovered that
people began
decorating themselves
much before they
started clothing. Early
age signs of decoration
included painting and
tattoos and even
jewelry.
Recent scholars now state that clothing
represents one's identity and communicates
nonverbally.
Clothing in some societies is as functional as
language. It represents a person's age,
gender, marital status, ethnicity, social status
and occupation.
It is not certain when
people first started
wearing clothes
however,
anthropologists give
estimates that range
between 100,000 to
500,000 years ago.
The first clothes were
made from natural
elements: animal skin
and furs, grasses and
leaves, and bones
and shells.
Clothing was often
draped or tied
however, simple
needles made out
of animal bone
provide evidence
of sewn leather
and fur garments
from at least
30,000 years ago.
Before sewing
machines, nearly all
clothing was local and
hand-sewn, there
were tailors and
seamstresses in most
towns that could
make individual items
of clothing for
customers. After the
sewing machine was
invented, the ready-
made clothing
industry took off.
Before the invention
of the sewing
machine, most
sewing was done by
individuals in their
homes, however,
many people
offered services as
tailors or
seamstresses in
small shops where
wages were very
low.
Thomas Hood's ballad The
Song of the Shirt, published
in 1843, depicts the
hardships of the English
seamstress:
Ease
Line
Grain
Set
Balance
The garment, which seems to be right size is
neither too loose not too tight.
Ease is also the difference between the
actual body measurements and the garment
measurements.
This amount varies with the fashion, type of
garment and personal taste. A garment
constructed with optimum ease would be the
right size.
Lines should be smooth without folds and
neat. There should be smoothly graded
curves in back and front. Armhole should be
oval, but not pointed or round in shape.
The curve lines should not be too low which
will hinder the movements of the hand.
The lines obtained by darts, pleats and yokes
are with in the garment and they should be
graceful and smooth.
The placement of warp and weft yarns form
grain. Heavier threads tend to drape well on
the figure with graceful folds, when gathers,
pleats and ruffles occur on the straight grain.
If the grain line is not corrected, wrinkles or
sagging occur. Some times the grain line is
off, when the material is not cut
carefully.
A well-fitted garment has a smooth
set without any wrinkles.
A smoothness of "set" or freedom from
wrinkles is required for a good-looking fit.
Graceful folds created by gathers or un
pressed pleats or draped features are style
lines not to be confused with wrinkles, those
slanting triangles straining from some curve
or bulge of the body
The garment should look balanced from left
to right and front to back.
The skirt should hang so that it extends the
same distance from the center to the right
and left sides.
The necklines should fit neck snugly at all
points. If the shoulder seam stands away
from shoulder at neck point and fits tightly
at armhole point, the garment will look
out of balance.
1. When the garments are
carelessly cut and if
stitching is not done
properly then the
garment will have poor
fitting.
2. If the basic patterns are
not of the right size or if
they are not altered
according to the body
measurement then poor
fitting occurs.
3. Poor posture might be
the reason for
differences in the
bodice blocks.
1. The human body has
numerous curves of
which the basic ones are
bust, end of shoulder,
shoulder blade, elbow,
abdomen, side and hip.
The garment should be
cut and stitched
accurately to fit on the
curves of the body.
2. The straight material
should be folded into
darts are cut into seam
to allow enough ease
over the curves.
The garment should be
tacked and tried on.
The openings are pinned
together accurately,
properly and securely. The
basting line that marks
centre front, and back
helps in giving a good
fitting.
The garment should be
worn right side out to
check the fitting on the
body. The garment is
thoroughly inspected and
carefully analyzed for
fitting.
It should be
comfortable while
walking or working.
If any alterations are to
be made on the
garment then Mark the
correct line with tailors
chalk and tack the
corrected seam line or
dart line from the
inside of the garment.
The paper patterns
should also be altered
on the basis of changes
made in the garment.
Until a satisfactory
fitting is achieved,
repining and alterations
for fitting is done.
In the second round of
checking the fitting,
concentration must be
on the sleeves and arms
cycle, Necklines,
waistlines should be
curved to fit
comfortably and
naturally.
The patterns which are
altered for good
fitting should be
preserved.
A dress should look
nice from the back as it
is from the front.
The back should be
more carefully fitted
since there is a strain. A
dress with a back too
wide, too narrow or too
short can be
uncomfortable and it is
unbecoming.
Human beings start to wear clothes for many
reasons i.e modesty, protection,
identification & wearer appear more
attractive.
Garment construction is very old. People
wear leaves, fur and animals skin as clothes.
Initially people used to sew cloths from their
hands which is very time consuming n
difficult job but after the invention of sewing
machine the whole scenario has been
changed n garment has been start
constructed on mass level.
Five basic factors present in every fitting
decides whether a garment fits well or not.
These five are interrelated. These are Ease,
Line, Grain, Set, Balance.
A good fitted garment always gives pleaser
to the wearer and gives good name to the
brand or tailor. The most important factor of
garment construction is “ it should be
comfortable”
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THANK YOU NOW SAIMA HABBIB WILL
CONTINOU………………………