BEST TIME TO VISIT ETHIOPIA

• Ethiopia sits over 1,500m high above the SEA level

• days can be mild and nights cold – especially in the fog-
shrouded highlands, which soar well over 3,000m.
• The best time to visit Ethiopia is Sep-April, but particularly
at either end of the rains – in April,
• when the land is dry and barren, or as it flourishes again in
Sep-Oct. This green season is also best for highland
wildlife.
• Rains replenish the Omo Valley even sooner – so travel
Nov-Mar or Jun-Sep. Generally, though, the rains cause
little disruption; you’ll just find lusher landscapes and
fewer tourists.
Map highlights
• Ethiopia is more than four times the size of the UK, and with roads in
various stages of construction and repair, full day drives are not uncommon.
• This is compounded by the fact that driving should always take place in
daylight; wild animals plus unlit donkey carts and locals herding livestock
mean that accidents are all too likely after dusk. But these long drives really
allow you to appreciate the changes in scenery; anyone venturing south will
be traversing the Rift Valley, with its surprisingly lush lakes and astounding
views across hills, valleys, escarpment and forest.
• It also provides the perfect excuse to stop in little towns for a reviving cup
of coffee – follow the smell of frankincense and fresh popcorn to find a
roadside stand.
THINGS TO DO IN ETHIOPIA
Northern circuit
• Ethiopia’s historical circuit has long been a draw for history buffs, archaeology fans and religious pilgrims – yet, like
just about everything in Ethiopia, you still have that sneaking sense you’re being let in on an incredible secret; the
crowded Vatican City this is not.

• The circuit takes in four northern cities, including Lalibela, home to the astonishing rock-hewn churches. Freed from
the rock using hammers and chisels some eight centuries ago, these 11 structures are feats of engineering. Visit on a
Sunday when you will see them not just as ancient monuments, but as living, thriving places of worship. Aksum, the
former capital of the Aksumite Kingdom, is today the heart of Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity, as it claims to be the
final resting place of the Ark of the Covenant. Here, too, ancient engineering came into play, with the creation of
enormous stellae – stone pillars – some over 40m high, and weighing over 500 tonnes.
• There are beautiful 17th century castles, palaces and churches in Gondar, which is also the gateway to the nearby
Simien Mountains. Pretty, peaceful Bahir Dar is on the shore of scenic Lake Tana; attractions here include the Blue
Nile Falls, the monasteries on the lake’s islands, and the daily market.
ETHIOPIAN CULTURE
• As the only country in Africa never to have been fully colonised, Ethiopia is a rare glimpse into
a culture little influenced by the West. Like many African nations, it has its own languages, but it
is the only African country which also has its own unique alphabet. Ethiopia also has its own
time (the daily clock starts at 6am, not midnight), and its own calendar, roughly seven years and
nine months behind our own.
• The country is largely Christian, but having been so since around 330AD, Orthodox Christianity
here far predates the colonisation of Africa; Ethiopia is, in fact the second oldest Christian
country in the world. Religion is enormously important in Ethiopia – for the Christians, Muslims
and many tourists, who come to admire the impressive rock hewn churches, or to make the
pilgrimage to the little chapel in Aksum, where the Ark of the Covenant is said to rest today.
• Religion also wields a huge influence over daily life in Ethiopia. Visitors will hear the calls to
prayer, see the churches, chapels and mosques which are focal points in every town, and join in
the many religious festivals that take place across the country.
THINGS TO SEE & DO AT LALIBELA,
ETHIOPIA
• Lalibela is Africa’s Petra. Named after King Gebre Mesquel Lalibela, who was revered as a saint,
centuries ago Lalibela was the Ethiopian capital and today this compact, rural town is an
immensely significant pilgrimage location, among the most important sites in Christianity. The 11
monolithic churches here, expertly carved out of the pink volcanic rock between the 7th and 13th
centuries to symbolise spirituality and humility, are uniquely built top-down, sunken underground.

Ethiopia was one of the first Christian nations in the world. Almost every citizen of Lalibela,
especially those of older generations, is an Orthodox Christian, and dressed in white robes they
flock to the churches every morning to pray, petition and chant. It’s not unknown for services held
during religious festivals to become feats of endurance, the Christmas ones known to exceed 12
hours.

• It is said of the churches’ origins that they were an attempt to build a new Jerusalem. However,
you don’t need to be religious-minded to appreciate what an incredible architectural and
engineering achievement they were for the masons of medieval Ethiopia. Indeed, the churches
today are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Lalibela’s 11 churches are arranged in four groups, clustered for the most part within walking
distance of each other on both sides of a stream known as the River Jordan. Some of the more
remote churches can be reached with mules and a little hiking, and provide stunning panoramas over
the surrounding landscape. The Northern group are considered the most impressive in terms of scale
and detail.

• Biete Medhane Alem

• The House of the Saviour of the World, supported by dozens of columns, holds the
Lalibela Cross. This is one of the most precious religious artefacts in Ethiopia, a
processional cross said to have the capacity of healing when brushed against the skin.
• Biete Maryam
• The oldest of the Lalibela churches is said to be a replica of the Tombs of Adam and
Christ. The interior is decorated with superb frescoes across its pillars, arches and
ceilings.
• Biete Golgotha Mikael
• Distinctive for the seven reliefs of saints around its outer walls, Biete Golgotha Mikael is
said to be the final resting place of King Lalibela.
• Church of Saint George
• The single most impressive church here is also the best preserved. This 15m
tower was built in the shape of a cruciform cross. Completely distinct to the
other churches, the Church of Saint George sits in a deep pit and truly
showcases the mastery of the builders.

• Inside the churches it can be very dark, with little to no natural light
illuminating the various decorations. Dozens of priests wander around
wearing sunglasses due to incessant flash photography. It’s thought this is
damaging the paintings, but the priests are still always happy to pose. As you
would expect from such ancient buildings, the churches have suffered from
erosion over the centuries, and the ongoing 
conservation efforts are controversial as many of the most interesting
architectural features have been screened off for some years with little sign
of progress
WALKING HOLIDAYS IN ETHIOPIA

• Ethiopia is still a long way off the beaten tourist trail, meaning its own trails remain wonderfully crowd-
free. This is a unique and magnificent trekking destination, and a fantastic opportunity to escape from the
route around the main sights to get to know the culture in-depth through speaking with your guides, and
encounters with local people in communities you pass along the way.
• During your treks you can expect to see many examples of Ethiopia’s wildlife, much of it endemic, from
grass-chewing geladas to rare Ethiopian wolves, and birds of prey wheeling in the sky above. Sightings
made by your group may be passed on to help with conservation research.
• Most walking is done in the north of the country, particularly in the Simien Mountains National Park and
the Gheralta Mountains of the Tigray region. But lighter trekking is also involved when bird watching in the
Bale Mountains south of Addis Ababa. You’ll stay in a mixture of locally owned lodges, where you can
expect the accommodation to be quite Spartan but comfortable enough, and tents at both permanent and
wild campsites.
WILDLIFE HOLIDAYS IN ETHIOPIA

• Most people, when they think about African wildlife, will be picturing
the Big Five or perhaps the gorillas and chimpanzees of Uganda. But
Ethiopia, well beyond the mainstream tourist track and boasting many
relatively isolated regions, is a thrilling country to ‘safari’, with a
number of species that cannot be seen anywhere else on Earth. These
creatures are framed against some absolutely stunning landscapes
from the Simien Mountains in northern Ethiopia, formed volcanically
before the Great Rift Valley, to Lake Tana, said to be the source of the
Blue Nile.
WHERE TO SEE WILDLIFE IN ETHIOPIA

• Simien Mountains National Park

• Simien Mountains National Park is a popular trekking and camping
destination that is a regular feature on Ethiopia holiday itineraries. Ras
Dejen here is, at 4,563m, Ethiopia’s highest peak. Besides the baboon-
like geladas that wander the grasslands, pulling out clumps to chew,
you may see wildlife including the rare Walia ibex, red foxes, jackals,
klipspringer antelopes and even, if you’re incredibly lucky, the
Ethiopian wolf, Africa’s most endangered carnivore. Leaving the
mountains you may well pass through the Tekeze Valley, where huge,
water-hoarding baobab trees loom above you.
• Lake Tana
• Heart-shaped Lake Tana is the largest body of water in Ethiopia, its shores and islands dotted with ancient
churches and monasteries. Its immense cultural significance notwithstanding, the lake is also renowned for its
wildlife. Colobus monkeys dance in the boughs of trees on the islands, hippos submerge themselves in the
shallows, often to be seen on boat trips, and the birdlife is spectacular – you may see pelicans, kingfishers and
fish eagles here among many other species. The surrounding biosphere reserve is habitat for porcupines,
hyenas and rock pythons, Africa’s largest snake.
• Awash National Park
• East of Addis Ababa, and with a dormant volcano at its centre, Awash National Park provides
habitat for over 400 species of native birds including ostriches. Boat trips on the Awash River will
often result in sightings of crocodiles sunning themselves on the banks, while game drives on the
tracks that criss-cross the park may reveal oryx, gazelle, waterbucks and dik diks – small antelopes
so-named for the whistling sound of warning that the females make in the presence of predators.
• Nech Sar National Park
• Covering a small section of the Great Rift Valley, Nech Sar is one of the country’s least visited
national parks. Herds of zebra and gazelle graze the grasslands, and there are rumours of the odd
lion, but sadly the days of cheetah, elephant and giraffe populations are long gone here. Vervet
monkeys can be heard chattering in the trees and there is a patch of shore on Lake Chamo known
as the ‘Crocodile Market’ where at times hundreds of the toothsome reptiles sprawl menacingly.
• Yabelo Wildlife Sanctuary
• Originally intended as a protected area for hartebeest, which have
sadly now been poached out of existence here, Yabelo Wildlife
Sanctuary is now best known for its incredible birdlife, with almost
200 known species including Prince Ruspoli’s turaco, one of Africa’s
rarest birds.
• Bale Mountains National Park
• Considered one of the best birding sites in all of Africa – some 280
species have been recorded here – Bale Mountains National Park in the
Ethiopian Highlands also holds around a quarter of the country’s
endemic wildlife species. Across several distinct habitats you may see
leopards, wild dogs, hyenas and the critically endangered Ethiopian
wolf, which preys on rodents. There is also a small population of
black-maned Lions.
• Bird watching in Ethiopia
• Ethiopia is one of the finest countries in Africa for bird watching with over 800
recorded species, including some 23 endemics. Specialist bird watching tours
here focus on the Bale Mountains, and may cover locations such as Awassa
Lake to see pygmy goose, grey kestrel and African firefinch; the Sanetti
Plateau; Abijatta-Shalla National Park where ostriches can be observed, and the
Harenna Forest which is the best place in the country to see the Ethiopian wolf.
• The ‘bleeding heart baboon’
• Among the most sought-after wildlife on Ethiopia holidays are geladas,
sometimes known as ‘the bleeding heart baboon’ for their bright red chests,
which live in large populations in the Simien Mountains. Despite the nickname
they are not actually baboons, but actually the last surviving remnant of a
branch of primates that live at high altitudes and eat grass. Endemic to the
Ethiopian Highlands, they are generally unfazed by humans and will often
gather in large numbers close to tour groups, so you can watch them grooming
each other and playing.
TIMKAT FESTIVAL, ETHIOPIA
• What happens at the Timkat festival?
• Most Ethiopians wear the traditional white clothes during the festival, draped with a
traditional netela, or shawl, for the ceremony, and gather at the waterfront at dawn to
watch the water be blessed by the priest, be sprinkled with it and then, in some cases,
submerge themselves in it. Timkat is an aesthetically beautiful event to witness, a very
spiritual one to take part in and an ancient tradition that is an honour to share.

Timkat is both a public and private affair. Although it is a massive community gathering
and expression of spiritual commitment, it is also a rite of passage for young Ethiopian
men who are choosing the path of priesthood. In many cases, this is the culmination of
many years of spiritual learning and dedication, with trainee priests having to prove to the
elders that they are worthy of their ordination right up until the last minute. This journey
is, therefore, a very private spiritual path where each trainee priest has learned the
scriptures off by heart. They have had to beg for all their food as learning to accept charity
is part of this spiritual development. And then finally, during Timkat, their own baptism
into the Ethiopian Orthodox church takes place.