Definations

Acrylic
A manufactured fiber made from long-chain synthetic
polymers. Characteristics: wrinkle resistance; low moisture
absorbency and quick-drying; provides warmth yet
lightweight, soft and resilient
AlpacaAngora
Downy soft, fluffy hair that is plucked or
sheared from the angora rabbits.
Angora Goat
The goat that produces "mohai"
Apparel Wool
All wools that are manufactured into cloth
for use as clothing.
Baby Combing Wool
Short, fine wool which is usually
manufactured on the French system of worsted manufacture.

Black Wool
Any wool containing non-white fibers. Black
wool is usually run in lots that are to be dyed.
Black-top Wool
Wool containing a large amount of wool
grease combined at the tip of the wool staples with dirt, usually
from a Merino. This wool is usually fine in quality, of good
character, and desirable in type, but the shrinkage is high
 Bleaching
The procedure, other than by only scouring, of
improving the whiteness of textile materials. Sometimes
accomplished with and sometimes without the removal of natural
colouring or other extraneous substances.
Blend
A textile containing two or more different types fibers or
different colors and grades of the same fiber.
Blocker
A frame for drying wool.
Blocking
The process of drying a skein of wool under tension.
This can be done by drying a skein on a blocker.
Boiled Wool
Thick, dense fabric that is heavily fulled to
completely obscure its knitted construction.
Bold 
“ A term applied well-grown wool of good character."
Braid Wool
It is a very coarse and lustrous wool..
Brushed Wool
Finished yarn or material that has been
brushed to raise all loose fibers to the surface, i.e., the
commercially-spun mohair yarn.
Buck Fleece
A fleece from a ram. The wool usually has a heave
shrinkage due to excessive wool grease; thus wool of this type
is not worth as much in the grease as a similar wool from ewes
or wethers
Bulk Grade
The largest percentage of grade in a lot of original-
bagged wool.
Burry Wool
Wool heavy in vegetable matter -- including burs,
leaves, seeds, and twigs, which requires special and expensive
processing in removal.
Carbonizing
The process of treating wool with chemicals, usually
acids, to destroy and remove the burrs without seriously
damaging the wool. The usual chemical used is sulphuric acid.
Wool so treated is known as carbonized wool.
Carding Wools
Wools that are too short to be treated by wool
combing and must be processed into woolen yarns.
Carpet Wool
Coarse, harsh, strong wool that is more suitable for
carpets than for fabrics.

Class-two Wool
Class-two wools are not quite as good as the
Merino wool, but this variety is nevertheless a very good quality
wool. It is 50-200 mm in length, has a large number of
"scales", and has good working properties. This class of sheep
originated in England, Scotland, Ireland and W
Class-four Wool
These fibres are from 25-400 mm long, are
coarse and hair like, have relatively few "scales" and little
crimp, and therefore, more smoother and more lustrous. This
wool is less desirable, with the least elasticity and strength.
Class-one Wool
Merino sheep produce the best wool which is
relatively short, but the fiber is strong, fine, and elastic and has
good working properties
Classification by Fleece
Wool shorn from young lambs differs
in quality from that of older sheep. Also, fleeces differ
according to whether they come from live or dead sheep, which
necessitates standards for the classification of fleeces.
Clean Content
The amount of clean, scoured wool remaining
after removal of all vegetable and other foreign materia
Clean Wool
Usually refers to scoured wool but occasionally it
describes grease wool that has a minimum amount of
vegetable matter.
Cloudy Wool
Wool that is off-color. It may be due to wool
becoming wet while poorly stored in a pile.
Coated Fleeces
Some wool producers coat their fleeces that
cut down on the amount of vegetable matter and weathering
Color Fastness
The term used to describe the resistance of
fabric to the loss of color. There are several things which can
cause loss of color, the most important being washing and
light.
Combing Wool
Wools having sufficient length and strength to
comb.
Cotty Wool
Wool that has matted or felted on the sheep's back
Crimp
The wave effect in the wool fiber. Usually the finer wools
show the most crimp. Uniformity of desired crimp generally
indicates superior wool..
Crossbred Wool
A sheep bred from two distinct breeds; also
a classification for wool of medium fineness.
Crutched Wool
Wool that has been clipped from rear end and
udder area of ewes in the early spring to prevent collection of
manure and fly s
Damp Wool
Wool that has become damp or wet before or after
bagging and may mildew.
Dead Wool
Wool taken from the sheep that have died on the
range or have been killed.
.
Delaine Wool
Fine, strictly combing wool, usually from Ohio and Pennsylvania
Elasticity
The ability to return to its original length after being
stretched or compressed. Wool has more elasticity than
cotton, with finer wools stretching up to 30% of their original
length.
Defective Wool
Wool that contains excessive vegetable
matter, such as burs, seeds, and straw, or which is kempy,
cotty, tender, or otherwise faulty
.
Felting 
The matting together of fibres during processing or use.
Fiber Fineness 
The mean fiber diameter which is usually
expresses in microns.
Fiber Length
The staple length of the fiber. On combing wools,
this is often 3-8 inches, on the down wools 1.5-3 inches.
Fiber Thickness
The average diameter of the fiber.
Filament
A fiber of indefinite or extreme length.
Fine Wool
The finest grade of wool -- 64's or finer, according to the
numerical count grade OR wool with an 18 to 24 micron count.
Also, the wool from any of the Merino breeds of sheep. Fine wools
may have as many as 30 crimps per inch.
Fleece
The wool from one sheep, either as it comes from the
animal or after it is rolled into a bundle and tied.
Fleece Wools
Wools produced on farms in areas east of the
Rockies, inclusive of those produced east of the Mississippi River.
.
French Combing Wool
Wools that are intermediate in length
between strictly combing and clothing.
Fribby Wool
Wool containing an excessive amount of second
cuts and/or sweat locks.
Frowzy Wool
A wasty, lifeless-appearing,dry, harsh wool,
lacking in character
Gray Wool
Fleeces with a few dark fibers, a rather common
occurrence in the medium wools produced by down or black-
faced breeds.
Half-blood Wool
Designation of a grade classification
immediately below the fine grade.
Hand-washed Wool
Wool washed before it is shorn from the
sheep.
Heavy Wool
Wool that has considerable grease or dirt and will
have a high shrinkage in scouring.
Lamb's Wool
Wool shorn from lambs, usually when they are
less than 7-8 months old.
Line Fleece
A fleece of wool midway between two grades in
quality and length, which can be thrown into either grade.
Lofty Wool
Wool that is open, springy, and bulky in comparison
to its weight. This type of wool is desirable.
Low Wool
Wool of low 1/4 blood or lower in quality.
Lowland Wool
These breeds are characterized by producing wool that
is generally coarser, and only wavy or quite straight, and of longer
staple (over 4 inches).
Lustre
The natural gloss or sheen characteristic of the fleeces of long-
wool breeds.
Mean Fiber Diameter 
The average diameter (thickness) of a group
of fibers from an animal.
Mohair
Long, lustrous, silky white hair of the angora goat is
stronger and more resilient than wool. It dyes more easily than
any other specialty hair fiber and often comes in brilliant colors.
Moity Wool
Wool that contains straw or other, non-seed-or-
burr vegetable matter.
Mushy Wool
Wool that is lacking in character, dry, and wasty
in manufacturing
Open Wool
Wool that is not dense on the sheep and shows a
distinct part down the ridge or middle of the back. Usually
found in the coarser wool breeds.
Wool lacking character with few crimps.
Pulled Wool
Wool pulled from skins of slaughtered sheep. The
wool is pulled from the skins after treatment of the fleshy side
of skins with a depilatory. Pulled wool should not be confused
with "dead wool".
Range Wool
Wool produced under range conditions in the
West or the Southwest. With the exception of Texas and
California wools, it is usually classified as territory wool.
Raw Wool
Wool in the grease, as shorn from the sheep. Same
as "grease wool".
Reclaimed Wool
Wool that is reclaimed from new or old
fabrics.
Scouring
The process of washing or cleansing wool of grease,
soil, and suint in a water/soap/alkali solution.
Seedy Wool
Wool containing numerous seeds or an appreciable
amount of vegetable matter.
Shafty Wool
Wool of extra good length, sound, and well
grown.
Spring Wool
The 6:7 months of wool produced by sheep
shorn in the spring following fall shearing.
Staple Length
The fiber length from a sample of fibers.
A Wensleydale sheep has a standard staple length of about
12 inches. A Dorset has a staple length 2.5 and 4 inches.
Stained Wool
Wool that has become discolored by urine,
dung, or whatever, which will not scour out white.
Superfine Wool
Superfine wool-from about 15 to 18 microns-
is in a class by itself,
Washed Wool
Wool washed in cold water while on the sheep's
back before shearing .
Wasty Wool
Wool that is short, weak, and tangled, which often
carries a high percentage of dirt or sand.
.Webby Wool
A thin fleece with poor staple formation and a
large number of cross fibers.
Wether Wool
Any fleece clipped after the first shearing is
called wether wool.
Wiry Wool
Wool that is in-elastic and has poor spinning capacity. It is
usually straight and may be the result of poor breeding.
Wool
The fine, soft, curly hair that forms the fleece of sheep and
certain other animals, characterized by minute, overlapping surface
"scales" which give it its felting property. Characteristics: strong and
resilient, soft and warm, wicks away moisture and dyes well for rich
coloration.
Wool Clip
The total yield of wool short during one season from the
sheep of a particular region.
Wool Classer
The person who sorts the "Wool Clip" into the
appropriate "Grades".
Unwashed Wool
Wool in its original condition as it comes
from a sheep. See also "Grease".
Veiled Wool
The wool where the staple lengths have become
disorganized and intermixed with each other.
Virgin Wool
Wool that has been clipped from a live sheep and
that has not been previously processed to the stage where it
contains twist. Noil is merely separated from long fibers in
combing and is considered virgin wool
Wool-Dyed
A term applied to yarns where the fibers were dyed
prior to spinning; either in the loose fibers or as top or roving.
Wool in the Grease
Wool in its natural condition as it is shorn
from the sheep.
Woolen Count
The woolen count is based on 1,600 yards of
yarn per pound. With woolen yarns, this is called a "run", so a
"2 run" would refer to a 3200 yards.
Animal Fibers
Most common animal fiber
Wool — sheep hair
Fine wool found in clothing
Coarse wool found in carpet common a
Other animal fibers
Mohair and cashmere — goats
Wool — camel hair
Wool — llama hair
Angora — rabbit hair
Silk —insect fiber that is spun by a silk worm (moth
caterpillar) to make its cocoon
Vicunas (looks like a llama - South America) $3000 / bolt of
their fir
 ANIMAL FIBRES
 Animal fibers are

natural fibers that consist largely of proteins such as silk,

hair/fur, wool and feathers.
The most commonly used type of animal fiber is hair.

They can be classified further as

Hair Fibres (Staple) Secretion Fibres
(Filament)
Wool Silk
Speciality hair fibres Spider Silk
(Insect fibre
SILK FIBRE
 silk is a natural fiber that can be woven into textiles. It is
obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm larva, in the
process known as sericulture
 properties
 it’s a fine continuous strand unwound from the cocoon of
a moth caterpillar known as the silkworm.
 it is the longest and thinnest natural filament fibre with
the longest filament around 3000yards.
 it is relatively lustrous ,smooth, light weight, strong and
elastic.
 it is essentially composed of protein fibre and is
naturally a white coloured fiber.
Types of silk
 Domestic silk-
 Mulberry silk : This is a white to yellow colored silk. It is fine
and is used mainly for apparel.

 Wild silk-
 Muga silk : This is a golden yellow coloured silk .It is obtained
from the semi-domesticated silkworm ,which feeds on the
aromatic leaves of Som and Soalu plants.

 Eri silk : This is got from the domesticated silkworm. It feeds

mainly on castor leaves.

 Tussar silk : Tussar Silk, also known as Kosa Silk, is valued for
its purity and texture. Kosa Silk is drawn from cocoons
especially grown on Arjun, Saja or Sal trees.
WOOL
Wool is the fiber derived from the fur of
animals principally sheep.
properties
it has the highest moisture regain i.e., 14%.
it exhibits felting property and is easy to spin
due to crimp present in it, it has heat in
stored within
the length of the fibre is around 3-15 inches.
there are two types of wool namely clipped or fleece
wool taken from live sheep and pulled wool removed
from sheep already dead.
merino wool is the best grade of wool.
In addition to clothing, wool has been used for
carpeting, felt, wool insulation and upholstery.
SHEEP BREEDS IN PAKISTAN
Total population of sheeps in Pakistan is 24.9 million

Wool production =40.2 thousand tons

CHOLISTANI
Habitat
Bahawalpur
,Bahawalnagar Colour
White body dark brown
head,ears and neck
Average weight
37-
44kg
Annual wool yield

3kg/head/year Fibre
diameter
39microns
LOHI
Habitat
Southern Punjab
Colour
White body dark
brown head
Average weight
65kg
Annual wool yield

3kg/head/yea Fibre
diameter
39.8 microns
KAJLI
Habitat
Sargodha &Gujrat
Colour
White with blacktip
extending to the lower one third of
ear.
Average weight
45-55k
Annual wool yield

3kg/head/year Fibre
diameter
40 microns
BUCHI
Habitat
Bahawalpur
,Bahawalnagar ,Rahim yar khan
Colour
White body black &
brown head, &ears
Average weight
30-35kg
Annual wool yield

4kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
36 microns
THALLI
Habitat
Thall desert,
Mianwali, Multan,Jhang,sargodha.
Colour
White body black &
brown headlegs bloe knees.
Average weight
27-32kg
Annual wool yield
1.5kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
37 microns
SIPLI
Habitat
Bahawalpur
,Bahawalnagar
Colour
White body with light
brown head.
Average weight
34-40kg
Annual wool yield

5.6kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
40.6
microns
KACHHI
Habitat
Tharparkar,
Sanghar,Mipur khas.
Colour
White body with
black face&legs..
Average weight
32-42kg
Annual wool yield

2kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
41
microns
KOOKA
Habitat
Nawabshah,
Sakhar,Khairpur,Larkana.
Colour
White body.
Average weight
27-32kg
Annual wool yield

2kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
44
microns
Salt Range
Habitat
Attack, Mianwali,
Jehlem,Rawalpindi ,sargodha.
Colour
White body &
brownbroen spotted head.
Average weight
28-36kg
Annual wool yield

1.5kg/head/year
Fibre diameter

34 microns
DUMBI
Habitat
Dadu, Thatta,
Larkana.
Colour
White body rings
around ears.
Average weight
30-36kg
Annual wool yield

1.4kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
38
microns
DESI
Habitat
Dadu,
Nawabshah,Khairpur.
Colour
White body
Average weight
30-35kg
Annual wool yield

2kg/head/ye
Fibre diameter

43microns
DAMANI
Habitat
D.I Khan, Bannu
Colour
White body black
head
Average weight
26-33kg
Annual wool yield

1.5kg/head/year
Fibre diameter

44microns
KAGHANI

Habitat
Kaghan vally
Mardan,Abtabad.
Colour
White body
Average weight
30-35kg
Annual wool yield

1.5kg/head/year
Fibre diameter

31microns
VAZERI
Habitat
Waziristan,Bannu.
Colour
White body , black
spotted head.
Average weight
Medium

Annual wool yield

1.5kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
33.9
microns
BALTASTANI
Habitat
Baltastan
Colour
White body ,brown
legd.
Average weight
25-30kg

Annual wool yield

1.5kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
35
microns
PAHARI
Habitat
Mirpur,Muzaffarabad
in ajk.
Colour
White body ,occasional
patches of tan brown.
Average weight
30-35kg

Annual wool yield

2kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
38
microns
KAIL
Habitat
Neelum,leepa velleys in
AJK
Colour
White
Average weight
32-41kg

Annual wool yield

2.25kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
31
microns
POONCHHI
Habitat
Poonch district of Kasmir.
Colour
White with some
coloured patches
Average weigh

30-37kg
Annual wool yield

2kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
33
microns
MICHNI
Habitat
Peshawar
Colour
White, black or brown
ears.
Average weight
27-36kg

Annual wool yield

1.5kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
37
microns
TIRAHI
Habitat
Bannu,Kohat, Peshawar .
Colour
black or brown
Average weight
24-28kg
Annual wool yield

1.3kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
35
microns
GIGA
Habitat
Hunza velley,Northern
areas
Colour
White body, brow n
rings around eyes
Average weight
30-35kg

Annual wool yield

1kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
33 Micron
KASHMIRI
Habitat
Neelum, Lipa valley
Colour
White, black or brown
head
Average weight
30-40kg

Annual wool yield

2kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
35
microns
BALOCHI
Habitat
Quetta
Colour
White body brown
and black legs rings around eyes.
Average weight
32-37kg

Annual wool yield

2.4
kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
37Microns
BIBRIK
Habitat
Quetta , sibby
Colour
White body and black
head.
Average weight
30-38kg
Annual wool yield
1.5 kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
41 Microns
HERNAI
Habitat
Quetta , Sibby
s Colour
White body, black
spotted head.
Average weight
37-38kg

Annual wool yield

2
kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
31 Microns
QANDAHARI
Habitat
Chamman , Quetta
Colour
White body black and
brown spots on body .
Average weight
25-30kg

Annual wool yield

2kg/head/year
Fibre diameter
36Microns
wool
Wool is the fibre derived
from the fur of animals
principally sheep.

There are two types of

wool namely clipped or
fleece wool taken from
live sheep and pulled
wool removed from
sheep already dead.
Wool Characteristics

 Absorbent
 Non- Flammable
 Absorbs Dye Quickly
 Warm
 Grading of wool (Blood System)

Fine Wool 2 1/2 inches in staple Very fine crimp (close

length together)
1/2 Blood Wool 3 inches in staple Meduim fine crimp
length
3/8ths Blood Wool 3 1/2 inches in staple Medium crimp
length
1/4 Blood Wool 4 inches in staple Medium coarse crimp
length
Low 1/4 Wool 4 1/2 inches in staple Coarse crimp (large
length waves)
Common 5 inches in staple Very coarse
length
Braid 6 inches in staple The most coarse
length
 Grading of wool (Micron
System )
Fine Wool 64 to 80 Hanks Less than 22.04
Microns
1/2 Blood Wool 60 to 62 Hanks 22.05 to 24.94
Microns
3/8ths Blood Wool 56 to 58 Hanks 24.95 to 27.84
Microns
1/4 Blood Wool 50 to 54 Hanks 27.85 to 30.99
Microns
Low 1/4 Wool 46 to 48 Hanks 31.00 to 34.39
Microns
Common 44 to 40 Hanks 34.40 to 36.19
Microns
Braid 40 to 36 Hanks 36.20 to 40.20
Microns
Wool Morphology
Felting of Wool
The Polymer System
Structure Of Wool
 Cross section of wool fiber
 cuticle made of
 overlapping scales.

medulla found in
medium/coarse
wool
cortex is primary
component of fiber.
Cuticle
 Protective layer of overlapping, flattened scales.

 Scale edges are prominent in fine wool.

 Coarse wool smoother.

 Edge of scales points towards tip of fiber.

 Cortex
-responsible for elasticity

resiliency and durability.

two types of cortical cells

1. Orthocortical (soft)
2. Paracortical (hard)

-division of ortho and para

cortical cells determines crimp.
Medulla
Central core of Med and kemp
fibers

Found in medium and coarse wool

Results from incomplete

keratinizaiton

Kemp is the coarsest fiber and is

>60% medullated.
Fiber types
Wool
lacks medullation
crimp
Med (hair, gare)
medullated
may lack crimp
Kemp
coarsest fibers
shed seasonally
essential in tweed fabrics
Wool Fibre Length
 Staple length adds
weight to the fleece
more than any other
characteristic.

Look for uniformity of length

Breeds of sheep are grouped according to the
type of wool they grow

Fine
Rambouillet, Merino
Crossbred (fine x medium)
Targhee, Corriedale, Columbia
Medium (fine x long)
Suffolk, Hampshire, Dorset, Cheviot, Montadale,
Southdown, Shropshire, Tunis, Polypay
Long (coarse)
Romney, Border Leicester, Lincoln, Cotswold
Carpet (double-coated)
Scottish Blackface, Karakul, Icelandic
Hair (shedding) - not sheared
Katahdin, Dorper, Barbado
Shearing

Sheep shearing is the process by which the woollen fleece of a

sheep is cut off.
After shearing, the wool is separated into four main categories:
fleece (which makes up the vast bulk), broken, bellies, and
locks.The quality of fleeces is determined by a technique known
as wool classing whereby a qualified person called a wool
classer groups wools of similar gradings together to maximize
the return for the farmer or sheep owner. In Australia, before
being auctioned all Merino fleece wool is objectively measured
for micron, yield (including the amount of vegetable matter),
staple length, staple strength, and sometimes color and comfort
factor
Physical Properties
Chemical Properties
Scouring
Wool straight off a sheep, known as "greasy woo or "wool in
the grease", contains a high level of valuable lanolin, as well as
dirt, dead skin, sweat residue, pesticide, and vegetable matter.
Before the wool can be used for commercial purposes, it must
be scoured, a process of cleaning the greasy wool. 
Scouring may be as simple as a bath in warm water, or as
complicated as an industrial process using detergent and alkali
and specialized equipment. In commercial wool, vegetable
matter is often removed by chemical carbonization.In less
processed wools, vegetable matter may be removed by hand,
and some of the lanolin left intact through use of gentler
detergents. This semi-grease wool can be worked into yarn and
knitted into particularly water-resistant mittens or sweaters,
such as those of the Aran Island fishermen. Lanolin removed
from wool is widely used in cosmetic products such as hand
creams.
 Difference b/w woolen & worsted yarns

Woolens
Worsted
Spun from short wool fibers Spun from long wool fibers
(1-3 inches long) (more than 3")
Spun from medium or coarse Spun from fine diameter wool fibers
diameter wool fibers
Fibers are washed, scoured and Fibers are washed, scoured, carded,
carded combed and drawn
higher tensile strength than woolens
lower tensile strength than worsteds
low to medium twist tighter twist
Bulky, uneven yarn Fine, smooth yarn
Soft, fuzzy appearance crisp, smooth appearance
heavier weight lighter weight
not as durable as worsteds More durable than woolens
does not hold crease well holds crease well