CHIKANKARI

RESEARCH ON CHIKANKARI
• Chikan  is a traditional embroidery style
from Lucknow. Literally translated, the word
means embroidery, and it is one of Lucknow's
best known textile decoration styles. The
market for local chikan is mainly in Chowk,
Lucknow.
 ORIGIN
• There are references to embroidery similar to chikan work in India as
early as 3rd century BC by Megasthenes who mentioned the use of
flowered muslins by Indians. But these embroidered patterns lack any
colour, ornamentation or anything spectacular to embellish it.
•  According to lalia Tyabji, chikankari stems from the white-on-white
embroidery of Shiraz and came to India as part of culture
of Persian nobles at the Mughal court. There is also a tale that
mentions how a traveler taught chikan to a peasant in return of water
to drink.
• The most popular origin story credits Noor Jahan, Mughal empress
and wife of Jahangir, with introducing chikankari to India.
• Chikan began as a type of white-on-white embroidery.
 TECHNIQUE
• The technique of creation of a chikan work is known
as chikankari .
• chikan is a delicate and artfully done hand embroidery on
a variety of textile fabric like muslin, silk, chiffon, organza,
net, etc. White thread is embroidered on cool, pastel
shades of light muslin and cotton garments.
• Nowadays chikan embroidery is also done with coloured
and silk threads in colours to meet the fashion trends and
keep chikankari up-to-date. Lucknow is the heart of
the chikankari industry today and the variety is known
as Lucknawi chikan.
 TECHNIQUE
• The piece begins with one or more pattern blocks that are
used to block-print a pattern on the ground fabric. The
embroiderer stitches the pattern, and the finished piece is
carefully washed to remove all traces of the printed
pattern. The process of chikankari includes the following
steps:
• Design
• Engraving
• Block printing
• Embroidery
• Washing and finishing
 STICHES
• The patterns and effects created depend on the
stitches and the thicknesses of the threads used.
• Some of the stitches include backstitch, chain
stitch and hemstitch. The result is an open work
pattern, jali  or shadow-work.
• Often the embroiderer creates mesh-like
sections by using a needle to separate threads in
the ground fabric, and then working around the
spaces. It consists of 32 stitches:
 CONTD.
• Chikankari-Tepchi is a long running or darning stitch worked with six strands on the right
side of the fabric taken over four threads and picking up one. Thus, a line is formed. It is
used principally as a basis for further stitchery and occasionally to form a simple shape.
• Bakhiya — 'Shadow work' or bhakia is one of the stitches of chikankari. The reason for
the name shadow is that the embroidery is done on wrong side and we see its shadow
on the right side.
• Hool is a fine detached eyelet stitch. A hole is punched in the fabric and the threads are
teased apart. It is then held by small straight stitches all round and worked with one
thread on the right side of the fabric. It can be worked with six threads and often forms
the center of a flower.
• Murri- is the form of stitch used to embroider the centre of the flowers in chikan work
motifs. They are typically French knots that are rice-shaped. Murri is the oldest and
most sought-after form of chikankari. The use of this stitch is depleting due to a
decrease in the artisans doing this embroidery.
• Jali stitch is one where the thread is never drawn through the fabric, ensuring that the
back portion of the garment looks as impeccable as the front. The warp and weft
threads are carefully drawn apart and minute buttonhole stitches are inserted into the
cloth.
 CONTD.
• Turpai • Kapkapi
• Darzdari • Madrazi
• Pechani • Bulbul-chasm
• Bijli • Taj Mahal
• Ghaspatti • Janjeera
• Makra • Kangan
• Kauri • Dhania-patti
• Hathkadi • Rozan
• Banjkali • Meharki
• Sazi • Chanapatti
• Karan • Baalda
• Jora • Zanzeera
• Keel kangan • Rahet
• Bulbul
• Banarsi
• Sidhaul
• Khatau
• Ghas ki patti
• Phanda
 CONTD.
STICHES FROM FRONT STICHES FROM BACK
MOOD BOARD
BRAINSTROMING
FORMS
FORMS
FORMS
FORMS
ILLUSTRATIONS
ILLUSTRATION
ILLUSTRATIONS
 THANK YOU
• SUBMITTED BY- PRATIBHA SHARMA
• ROLL NO.-01
• REGISTRATION NO.-11900986
• SUBJECT-INDIAN COUSTUMES AND TEXTILE
• SUBMITTED TO-RAJDEEP KAUR