Textile Design Economics

TEX0
(Level 3)

Dr. Tamer F. Khalifa

2018-2019
Lecture (5-6)
 AREAS OF COST REDUCTION:

 1. Design
 2. Factory organization and method
 3. Product planning
 4. Factory layout and equipment
 5. Utility services
 6. Marketing
Distribution of the various costs in the flows to
products and residual materials
 Modern Design Theory
• In modern design theory, they design a product according to how
the product should function, how it should be used and how it should
look like.
• Afterwards, when this so-called formal design is ready the design
should be materialized by choosing the materials in dependency of
the role it can play in the design.
 Woven design possibilities
• The design of the woven fabrics is associated with
the following possible cases of production:
1) Creation of a new tissue;
2) Reproduction of an already woven sample,
which has been analyzed;
3) Improving the quality of an already put into
production fabric.
• Each of these cases requires the calculation or
selection of the most appropriate parameters of the
woven structure according to its application,
appearance, and desired operational characteristics.

• The design of the woven fabric ends with a set of

results expressed in a written form, which constitute
the project of the fabric.
According to this Design, different
parameters needs to be set:
1) the necessary raw materials are prepared
2) the technological operations are determined,
3) the necessary machines parameters are set,
4) the operating modes are specified,
5) A specimen is manufactured, and
6) laboratory testing of the gray and finished fabric
is performed
The technical requirements are related to:

• a/ Characteristics of the threads.

1) The number of the sets of warp and weft threads are
determined as components of the fabric structure,
2) together with the composition and structural
characteristics of the yarns, their linear densities and
limitations on the number,
3) the weight of the warp and the weft threads in the fabric,
the requirements for the physical and mechanical
properties of the threads, and their resistance to laundry,
dry cleaning, temperature effects, moisture,
microorganisms, oils, etc.
• b / Characteristics of the fabric:

1) The linear dimensions of the fabric are determined

together with the composition of whole fabric,
2) the desired structural effect of the weave, the type of the
finishing treatments and additional coatings,
3) The mass of one linear meter and one square meter of
both the gray and the finished fabric,
4) the physical and mechanical requirements for the fabric
strength in warp and weft directions, the stretching, the
wrinkling and abrasion resistance, pilling resistance, the
desired visual appearance of the surface, the phase of
construction, the ratio of the warp and weft densities, etc.
 c/ Aesthetic requirements for fabric color, figured elements in
the pattern, shadows, type of the face surface, touch, etc

• d/ Economic requirements.
• The use of a software program to perform the design of а woven
fabric gives an exceptional comfort for engineers and designers,
as it allows quick changing of the calculations when changing an
element of the fabric technical project.
• CAD systems facilitate the design of the fabrics and the
elaboration of the production of documentation. The CAD
systems are very often a part of a specific type of a weaving
machine and can design fabrics from the basic weaves to
complex jacquard weaves
• Software packages that visualize the structure and predict the
properties of the fabrics are also developed.
• true-to-life simulation for all type of fabrics - yarn
dyed Classic Fine Cotton, Large and Casual fabrics,
Linen, Fancy Yarn etc.
• Accuracy of size and effect is handled to perfection
for variable density dobby and extra warp effects.
Weft cramming, empty dents and furnishing fabric
can be simulated easily.