Construction of shoe

Presentation Aim
• To Highlight that –

1. The making of every single pair of shoes involves;

– Expert craftsmanship of a numerous pairs of hands

1. The customer …
– His Sense of Style,
– His Lifestyle,
– His Personality
…is at the core of each process in shoe-making
By the end of the Presentation
• You will be able to
– share with the customer the rigorous attention
• to his style preference
• and his functional requirement
that goes into each step in the process of making
their choice of shoe
Men’s Footwear
Sports Footwear
Construction of Shoe
• Construction is defined as
– the method of attachment of sole with the upper
Factors in Determining Type of Construction
• Two major factors:
– Function of the Shoe

– Appearance & Style

Types of Construction
• Based on methods of construction shoes can be
categorized into following groups:-
1. Cemented Shoes
2. Moulded Shoes
1. Vulcanized
2. Direct Injection
3. Stitched Shoes
1. Goodyear Welt
2. Stitched Down
4. Moccasin
• Each group gets its name from the method used to attach the
outsole to the shoe.
Types of Construction- Cemented Shoes
Types of Construction- Cemented Shoes
• Stuck on process
Types of Construction- Cemented Shoes
• Outsole, insole and lasting margin attached using
bonding cement (adhesive)

• Layer of filler material (foam) between the outsole

and insole to create an even surface at the bottom

Lasting Margin is
the part of the
upper that is
made to fold
onto the last.
Advantages of a Cemented Shoe

• Relatively easy to manufacture due to the use of pre

finished components.
Result:
• Fine Appearance

• Suitable for High style Footwear

Types of Construction – Moulded Process
Types of Construction – Moulded Process
I. Vulcanization Process
• Rubber sole and heel are heat-moulded to the upper
as one unit.

• Sole gets permanently and securely attached.

Vulcanization in Popular Footwear Brands
Types of Construction – Moulded Process
II. Direct Injection-moulding
• PU material is injected into a mould.

• Sole is formed directly on the upper.

Types of Construction – Moulded Process
Each Mould for PU-TPU sole consists of
– One Dummy Last for Direct Moulding of TPU Outsole
– One Last for Mounting upper and Directly Injecting PU
midsole
– Two Part Side Rings for side design
– One Sole Plate for Outsole
Direct-injected Soles in Popular Footwear Brands

ECCO Biom Running Shoes

Direct-injected Soles in Popular Footwear Brands

Nike Soccer Boots

Advantages of a Moulded Shoe
• Cost-effective as because of less operation involved

• Light-weight & Comfortable (In case of PU injection

moulding

• Suitable for Sports Wear

Types of Construction- Stitched Shoes
I. Goodyear Welt Construction
Types of Construction- Stitched Shoes
I. Goodyear Welt Construction
• Used by Master shoemakers for nearly 100 years

• Recognized as the best construction for men’s high-

grade shoe
Goodyear Welt Construction
• Upper is formed over the last with a leather Insole.

• A strip of leather, welt, is sewn to the edge of the

upper and Insole.
• Cavity between the outsole and Insole is filled with a
cushion which eventually conform to the sole of the
foot.
Advantages of a Goodyear Welt shoe
• Heavy and Strong construction

Durability as the bottom components are assembled

with stitching

• Goodyear Welt shoe is easily re-soled.

Goodyear Welt in Popular Footwear Brands
Advantages of a Stitched Shoe
• Durable

• Used in High Quality Footwear

Types of Construction – Stitched Shoes
II. Stitch-down Process
Types of Construction- Stitched Shoes
II. Stitch down Process
• Consists of stitching the lasting margin to the sole
• The outsole is stuck on to the bottom of the Insole
Advantages of a Stitch down shoe
• Durable
• Light weight
• Not many operations involved in making
• Distinct design feature justify the higher price.
Happy Selling!