WEAVES ,THEIR VARIATIONS,

PROPERTIES & THEIR

APPLICATIONS
By: Madhu Kumari
Tanvi Mishra
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
 We would like to express our thanks to Ms. Yashoda
Kumari for her guidance and help. Furthermore we are
grateful to the college Resource Centre which provided
us with the necessary material for the presentation.
Finally we would like to thank our classmates for their
patience and support.
DEFINITION
 Weaving : The interlacing of two sets of yarns, warp and
weft, at right angles.

 Warp yarns are those which lie lengthwise & Weft

yarns lie widthwise of the selvage
REPRESENTATION OF WEAVES
 Draft: Represents the
number of harnesses
used in the making of
the weave.

 Peg Plan: Indicates

the repetitive pattern
that occurs at
intervals in the weave.
 WEAVES CLASSIFICATION

Basic Weaves

Plain Weave Twill Weave Satin Weave

Basket Weave
Warp Faced
Right Hand
2×2 Left Hand
4×4 Warp Faced
Filling Faced
Rib Weave Broken Filling Faced
Reverse
Crosswise
Vertical
PLAIN WEAVE
 Simplest and Tightest method of interlacing.
 Each warp yarn passes alternately over and under each
weft.
 Interlacing is opposite in each neighboring cells.

 The repeat is over two ends and two picks.

 Opposite sides of the fabric are the same.

 Yields the strongest fabric.

 Requires only two harnesses.

 Examples :

Batiste, Cambric, Donegal, Fresco, Honan, Muslin,

Taffeta, Voile.
Plain Weave

Examples of Plain Weave

Batiste Muslin Cambric

VARIATIONS OF PLAIN WEAVE
 Rib Weave: surface shows raised lines or ridges.
 Filling yarns are thicker than warp yarns.
 Abrades quickly, unbalanced fabric

-Warp Rib: runs across the fabric width,

high density of warp ends,
finer warp yarn covers fabric surface.
Commercial Styles: ottoman, rib, bengaline
,broad cloth, taffeta, faille and poplin
-Weft Rib: runs through the length of the cloth,
high weft density,
not a very common fabric.
Rib Weave

Example of Rib Weave

Ottoman
VARIATIONS OF PLAIN WEAVE (CONTD..)
 Basket Weave: groups of two or more warp yarns
interlacing as one yarn with groups of two or more
filling yarns that also interlace as one yarn.
 Examples:- Monk’s cloth, Hopsacking, Oxford cloth.

 2×2 basket weave is the most common

 Decorative, coarse, porous, snags easily, poor shape

retention, flat weave effect
 Not durable and easily shrink

 Difficult to sew
Basket Weave

1×2

4×4

2×2

Example of Basket Weave

Hopsack
TWILL WEAVE
 Created by floats between interlacing points which move
one cell upwards/downwards on adjacent threads.
 Produces diagonal lines( Z or S) on the fabric.

 On the back twill direction is the opposite.

 Smallest repeat size: 3 warp & 3 weft

 Two Types : Warp Faced & Weft Faced.

 Can be made soft or loose and twill lines can be made

more prominent .
 Examples : cavalry, denim, diagonal, drill, gaberdine,
serge, tweed, tricotine, whipcord.
Twill Weave

Examples of Twill Weave

Cavalry Tweed
VARIATIONS OF TWILL WEAVE
 Diagonals: larger twills with two or more twill lines of
different width. Can be warp faced, weft faced or
balanced.
Commercial Names: Diagonals and Cavalry.
 Broad Twills: show a very broad twill line, warp floats
usually cover more than two cells and weft floats at least
two. Can be balanced/unbalanced.
 Balanced Twills: warp and weft floats are of equal sizes,
face and back are similar with opposite twill directions.
Commercial Names: Twill , sheeting
DEVELOPMENT OF TWILL WEAVES
 Steep Twill: equal density of warp and weft, twills
display a twill line of about 45°.
 Flattened Twill: usually weft faced which means that
twill line is formed by the weft yarn.
 Herringbone: made by reversing the direction of the
twill at regular intervals.
 Waved Twill: by changing the direction of the twill line
at regular interval a wave or zigzag effect can be created.
 Broken Twill: are formed by reversing the pattern part
way through the repeat.
 Waved Twill

Herringbone

Broken Twill Steep Twill

 Double/Cavalry Twill

Corkscrew Twill

Right-hand Twill (Mock Up)

Left Hand Twill Mock Up

75° : 4 Filling Yarns
Higher
76° : 3 Filling Yarns
Higher
63° : 2 Filling Yarns
Higher
45° : 1 Filling Yarns
Higher
27° : 2 Filling Yarns
Higher
26° : 3 Filling Yarns
Higher
15° : 4 Filling Yarns
Higher
SATIN/SATEEN WEAVE
 Uniform distribution of the interlacing which are never
adjacent to one another.
 Repeats over at least 5 ends and 5 picks.

 But the warp end interlace only once per repeat which
results in Long Floats.
 Face and the Back look different.

 Satins are Warp/Weft Faced, Sateen is Weft faced.

 Smooth, Uniform and Lustrous.

 Commercial Names: Atlas, duchesse, doeskin, sateen,

satin, venetian.
Satin Weave

Sateen Weave
Examples of Satin/Sateen

Satin
Duchesse

Atlas Venetian
DEVELOPMENTS OF SATIN WEAVE
 Few variations because interlacing must not be allowed
to come close together

 Patterning is achieved by arranging for interchanging

areas of sateen & satin on a Plain/Twill background.

 Examples : Satin Stripe, Damask, Faconne, Figured

Jacquard, Chiffon with Satin Stripes , Satin Faconne.
Developments of Satin Weave

Damask

Satin Stripes

Figured Jacquard
SPECIAL WEAVES CLASSIFICATION
Complex Or Novelty Weaves

Double Cloth
Jacquard Weave Leno Weave
Weave

Double Faced Gauze Weave

Double Back Thermo Weave

Figure Weave French Back

Piqué/Cord
Lappet Weave Dobby Weave
Weave
Spot Weave

Swivel Weave
DOUBLE CLOTH
 A single ply fabric made by two sets of filling and one
set of warp yarn or two set of warp and one set of filling
yarn.
DOBBY WEAVE
 A flat or raised, small
floral, dotted or geometric
weave produced with a dobby
attachment .

 Dull and shiny surface effects.

 Patterns are referred to as birdseye, nailhead, dots,

squares, diamonds, honeycomb
DOUBLE FACED CLOTH
 A woven or knitted fabric constructed with more than
one set of warp & filling yarns, producing two fabrics
with two distinct faces.
FIGURE WEAVE
 Ornamental embroidered effects are produced by adding
additional warp/filling yarns at regular intervals during
weaving.
LAPPET WEAVE
 A figure/embroidery weave design produced by a needle
on the loom, which produces an additional plain woven
end into the plain woven background
SPOT/DOT/CLIPPED SPOT WEAVE
 Method of producing decorative designs & patterns on
the entire width/length of the fabric in predetermined
areas.
SWIVEL WEAVE
 A method of producing decorative dots, circles or
squares on the surface of the fabric.
JACQUARD WEAVE
 Comprises of complicated patterns. Patterns can
incorporate any of the three weaves or their
combinations.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
 Clothing Technology : Europa Lehr-Mittal
 Fabric Science: Puzzartto

 Understanding Fabrics

 Pictures: Google, Understanding Fabrics

THANK YOU