Dhaka University of Engineering &

Technology,Gazipur
PRESENTATION ON
JACQUARD SHEDDING

Presented by
Group no 5 Mosharaf Hossain(175028)
Md. Minhaz(175031)
Muhammad Ripon(175036)
Amunullah Chowdury(175038)
Tauhid Hasan(175041)
Muhammad Nasim(175052)
 Content
• Introduction
• Object of Jacquard shedding
• Jacquard shedding in Textile
• Classification of jacquard shedding
• Scope of jacquard shedding
• Advantage & Disadvantage
• Different between Jacquard , Dobby & Tappet shedding
• Operating principle
• Jacquard shedding mechanism
• Limitation of mechanical jacquard
• Electronic jacquard machine
• Jacquard waves
• Size and figuring capacity of jacquard
• Jacquard calculation
• Board question
• Reference
Introduction

• The jacquard is a shedding device attached to the top of the hand

loom or a power loom and controls a large number of warp threads
with a view to produce the maximum variety of sheds (without and
heald shaft) for ornamenting the fabrics.

• It was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard.

 Object of jacquard shedding:
i.To know the jacquard shedding.

ii.To ensure a good Jacquard.

iii.To produce a uniform Jacquard cloth .

iv.To use large no warp thread .

v.To use Harness cord ,hook , needless in Shedding mechanism

vi.To produce a large pattern of fabric

vii.
To know of tapestry effect .
 Jacquard shedding in Textile

• In textile sector, the jacquard is a

shed or shedding device which is
placed on the top of the weaving loom
 for producing large figure patterns by
using a very large no. of warp yarn
separately by means of hooks,
needles, and harness cords but without
any heald shafts.
 Classification of jacquard shedding
•There are various ways of classifying jacquard shed or shedding In textile weaving.
Those are in the below:

1.According to figuring capacity:

100s, 200s, 300s ………., 1800s+

2. According to lift and number of cylinder:

•Double lift single cylinder jacquard (DLSC),

•Double lift double cylinder jacquard (DLDC),
•Single lift single cylinder jacquard (SLSC).
Cont…

3. According to selecting device:

•Paper roll jacquard,
•Jard jacquard

4. According to pitch of jacquard:

•Coarse pitch jacquard,
•Medium pitch jacquard,
•Fine pitch jacquard.
 Cont..

5. According to types of shedding:

•Open shed jacquard,
•Semi-open shed jacquard,
•Center close shed jacquard,
•Bottom close shed jacquard.

6. According to the source of driving power:

•Power jacquard,
•Hand jacquard
Cont…
7. According to position of cylinder:
• Vertical jacquard,
• Horizontal jacquard.

8. Method of harness mounting:

• Single tie-up London system,
• Repeating tie-up London system,
• Pointed tie-up London system,
• Mixed tie-up London system,
• Special tie-up London system,
• Nor-witch system.
Cont…
9. Control mechanism:
Electronic mechanism,
•Mechanical mechanism,
•Mechatronics mechanism

10.Broadly:
•Special jacquard,
•Ordinary jacquard.
Scope of jacquard shedding:

i. It can produce any shape of design.

ii. One warp thread for each harness.

iii. Most costly fabric is produced. (Costing: Jacquard>Dobby>Tappet).

iv. It can be used for a large design which cannot be positive on tappet or dobby. (It
can produce most complex or any design).

v. No heald shaft is used.

vi. Every thread is controlled individually.

vii. It is possible to lift 2000-3000 yarns at any instant.

 Advantages & Disadvantages of Jacquard m/c:

Advantage:
i. Tremendous pattern possibilities,
ii. Simpler inwards regulation than dobbies.
iii. It can produce any design.
•Disadvantages:
i. Large scale moving parts makes the machine as well as its harness
relatively costly to install as well as maintain.

ii. Jacquard fabrics are much to a greater extent than costly to produce.

iii. Jacquard machines are fifty-fifty to a greater extent than liable to create
faults inwards the stuff than dobbies.

iv. Pattern alter is a fourth dimension consuming process.

v. Until recently, the jacquard machine had tended to impose limitations (300
picks/min )

vi. Jacquard shedding is ordinarily used alone when the cloths to hold out woven
are exterior the orbit of dobby shedding.
Different between Jacquard , Dobby & Tappet shedding:
Jacquard shedding Dobby shedding Tappet shedding

1. Most complex mechanism. 1. Quite complex mechanism. 1. Simple mechanism.

2. Installation cost is high. 2. Installation cost is medium. 2. Installation cost is low.

3. 2-1000 yarns can be 3. 2-36 yarns can be controlled 3. 2-8 yarns can be controlled
controlled collectively. collectively. collectively.

4. Jacquard is placed generally 4. Dobby is placed generally 4. Tappet is placed generally

above the loom. above the loom. below the loom.

5. It can produce any shape of 5. It can produce square and 5. In can produce basic design.
design. rectangular design.

6. Harness cord used. 6. Heald shaft used. 6. Heald shaft used.

7. Less production. 7. Less production. 7. Production is more than

dobby shedding.
 Operating principle:
i. For jacquard shedding, punched card is used which is made according to design.

ii. Pattern chain is made which is placed on pattern cylinder.

iii. Card holes indicates warp up of the design.

iv. The knives from the griffe (Which are all fastened together) are moved up and down
from the crank shaft of the loom.

v. When the griffe begins to move upward, the cards of the perforated cylinder is
pressed against the needles.

vi. It there is hole in the card, the needle directly opposite the hole will pass through it
and in to the perforation the cylinder and the knife will take if the hook to which this
needle is connected and forms the top line of shed.

vii. If the card is blank opposite any needle, it will pass back the hook and as the knife
lifts, the hook is left down. Thus it is possible to lift nay of the jacquard for any pick
and form the bottom line of the shed.
Jacquard shedding mechanism:
• Main parts:
1.Pattern chain.
2.Motor.
3.Pattern cylinder.
4.Needle.
5.Knife.
6.Harness cord.
7.Neck cord. 
8.Comber board.
9. Top board
10. Hook.
11.Grid bar
12.Dead weight.
13.Spring board.
14.Needle board. Jacquard shedding mechanism
 Jacquard mechanism
1.For shedding mechanism here punched card are used which is
made according to design. One pattern card is used for one pick.
With these pattern cards pattern chain is made which is placed on
the pattern cylinder. On each pick pattern cylinder rotates 1/4th of
the full rotation in clockwise direction. At the same time it oscillates
to and fro forming an arc.

2.With every 1/4th rotation a new card comes front of the cylinder in
the hook side and for the to and fro movement the needles enter
inside the holes of the punch card. This selection of entrance inside
the punches of the needles is actually done according to design.
3.If a needle enters in the hole of the card the needle remains stationary in its
position. So the needle crank also remains stationary in its position. So for the
upward movement of the knife the hooks also goes upward along with the warp
threads to form the top line.

4.If needle gets no perforation to enter, the hook is pushed to the right and as result
the needle crank takes away the hook along with it. So when the corresponding
knife goes upward it cannot lift the hook with it. Thus the warp ends of those hook
remains fixed in its position and form the bottom line.

5.After certain time the knife releases two hooks which is lifted to form the top line
and due to wrap tension and dead weight the heald eye comes down. Its downward
movement is controlled by grid bar. Each needle has a spring push at its right and
that spring pushes back the needle when the next card comes.
 Single lift single cylinder
• One needle and one hook for every end in
the design.
• Shed formed by raising hooks by knives .
• Griff rise and fall in every pick.
• Cylinder must reciprocates and turn.
• Require to form shed and reduce the
speed of loom.
• Warp ends highly strained and may cause
breakage.
 Double lift single cylinder
• One needle and two hooks for every end
in the design.
• Each needle controls two consecutive
hooks.
• Pair of hooks connected to one neck cord.
• One hook controls neck cord in odd pick
and other even pick.
• Two set of knives ,1st controls odd hook
and 2nd even hook.
• Cylinder is turned quarter revolution every
pick.
• Less tendency of harness swing.
• Loom speed is higher.
Double lift double cylinder

• Has two set of knives.

• Two needle and two hooks for
every end in the design.
• Two card cylinder operate on
alternate picks ,one carrying the
odd numbered and other carrying
even numbered cards.
• Cylinder turned quarter revolution
in every two picks because of one
cylinder handle odd picks and
other even picks.
• Is faster than DLSC.
Limitation of mechanical jacquard
• Modern microprocessor controlled
weaving machines can not work with
mechanical jacquard.

• At speeds in excess of 700 rpm result

problem of selection and shedding
control.
Electronic jacquard machine

•Develop to overcome
limitations mechanical
jacquard.
•CAD control simplify
procedures.
•Cards or patterns are changed
by magnetic tape.
•Computer can scan the pattern
very rapidly.
 Cont…

• Software program convert the

warp and filling interlacing in
to a binary number form and
read by computer.

• Design displayed on computer

screen then the designer can
change pattern by drawing on
the screen with alight sonic
pen.(Staubli CX860)
 Advantage

• High speed hook selection and

weaving.
• Elimination of cylinder needle
and design card.
• Automatic pattern change by
CAD system.
Jacquard waves

• Large figure designs that require more

than 25 different arrangements of the
warp yarns to complete one repeat
design –woven on a jacquard loom.
i. Dasmask
ii. Brocade
iii. Brocatelle
iv. Jacquard tapestry
v. Wilton rugs
Size and figuring capacity of jacquard:
Size of the Hooks in a short row Hooks in long row Total hooks
machine
100 4 26 104

200 8 26 208
300 8 38 304
400 8 51/52 408/416
500 10 51 510
600 12 51/52 612/624
800 12 70 840
900 12 72 924
1000 10 100 1000
1200 12 104 1248
Jacquard loom calculation
Cont…
 Board Question
Q.1. Define necessary condition for good jacquard
shedding?
Answer:
Jacquard is a shedding device placed on the top of the loom to produce
large no of patterns by using a very large no of warp threads separately
by means of harness cords, hooks and needles.To ensure a good
jacquard shedding we may follow this instructions.
The necessary condition for good jacquard shedding:
1. It should be as small as possible
2. Heald angle must be right angle according to slay .
3. Perfect leveling Heald is obtained
4. The vertical uploaded and downward movement must be without any
extra tension
5. The tension of the shed must be constant
6. Smooth movement shed fronts .
 Q.2.  How is a jacquard made?
Answer:

Simply put, jacquard is a specially woven fabric

created using a Jacquard loom and various
materials such as cotton, polyester, silk and acrylic
can be woven to create them. Some of these fabrics
even feature a raised pattern, such as a Matelassé
or a brocade.
Q.3. Describe jacquard sheded cloth ?
Answer:
Jacquard clothing is durable and strong, with a structured and
wrinkle-resistant feel that is perfect for everyday wear. Unlike
printed and stamped designs, the woven pattern won't fade or
wear off of your garment.Modern jacquard fabrics can be made
from a variety of different fibers, from natural cottons and silks, to
man-made polyester and polyester cotton blend.Light weight
jacquards are often picked for spring and summer apparel,
whereas heavy cloths have their say in colder seasons. ... Unlike
prints which are applied to the fabric after it is woven, jacquard
patterns are created together with the cloth.
Reference

• Hand book of weaving,Sabit Adanur,Phd

• Hand out material,jacquard mechanism
• Internet browsing
Thank’s all for stay with
us.