WEAVING

By
S Naavendhan
20MT31
Introduction
● Textile fabric may be defined as the assembly of fibres, yarn or combination of
these. There are several ways to manufacture a fabric.
● The yarn which is collected from the spinning section cannot be used in loom
directly. Before using it is processed by many and these are known as yarn
preparation.
What is woven fabric
● Woven fabric is any textile formed by weaving. Woven fabrics are often
created on a loom, and made of many threads woven on a warp and a weft.
● Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by interlacing two or more
threads at right angles to one another.Woven fabrics can be made of both
natural and synthetic fibres, and are often made from a mixture of both.
Fabric Manufacturing Technologies

● Textile fabrics are generally two dimensional flexible materials made by interlacing of
yarns or inter-meshing of loops with the exception of nonwovens and braids.
● Fabric manufacturing is one of the four major stages (fibre production, yarn
manufacturing, fabric manufacturing, and textile chemical processing) of textile value
chain.
● Natural fibres in general and cotton fibre in particular are the most popular raw material
for woven fabrics intended for apparel use. Staple fibres are converted into spun yarns
by the use of a series of machines in the yarn manufacturing section. Continuous
filament yarns are texturised to impart spun yarn like bulk and appearance to them.
Textile fabrics are special materials as they are generally light-weight, flexible (easy to bend,
shear and twist), moldable, permeable and strong. There are four major technologies of
fabric manufacturing as listed below:

● Weaving
● Knitting
● Non-woven
● Fabric manufacturing may be preceded either by fibre production (in case of
nonwoven) or by yarn manufacturing (in case of weaving, knitting).
● Fabrics intended for apparel use must fulfill multidimensional quality
requirements in terms of drape, handle, crease recovery, tear strength, air
permeability, thermal resistance, moisture vapour permeability. However,
looking at the unique properties and versatility of textile fabrics, they are now
being used in various technical applications where the requirements are
altogether different.
WEAVING TECHNOLOGY
● Weaving is the most popular way of fabric manufacturing. It is primarily done by
interlacing two orthogonal sets (warp and weft) of yarns in a regular and recurring
pattern.
● Actual weaving process is preceded by yarn preparation processes namely
winding, warping, sizing, drawing and denting.
● The fabric is produced using looms, thus called as weaving looms.
Different parts of loom
The main parts of a loom are listed below:
❖ Warp beam.
❖ Heald shaft.
❖ Shuttle.
❖ Reed.
❖ Cloth roller.
❖ Picker.
❖ Picking stick
❖ Temple.
❖ Lease rod.
Warp beam
➔ The warp beam, which holds the warp yarns, is located at the back of the
machine and is controlled so that it releases warp yarns to the weaving area
of the loom as needed. This beam is produced by warping.
Healds shaft
➔ It is a frame which contain more amount of wire. Every wire contain a hole or
eye in its center through which a warp yarn is threaded. Healds control the
warp yarn to produce shed by the tappet, dobby, or jacquard mechanisms

.
Shuttle
➔ Shuttle is the device used in weaving to carry the weft warn. The picking are
completed by shuttle at shuttle loom. The filling thread is wound on a bobbin
which sets into the shuttle or bobbin container. As the shuttle passes back
and forth through the warp shed, it releases thread from the bobbin and so
forms the filling cloth.
Reed
➔ This is inevitably a combination made up of steel wire rods set vertically in a
frame. The spaces between the wires are known as splits or dents and are
kept even and parallel.The function is to feed the filling thread into position. To
do this it has to move in a back and forth motion. It attach the pick with fell of
the cloth.
Cloth Roller
➔ The cloth beam, which holds the fabrics , is located at the front of the
machine. The produced fabric are wind on this beam by take up motion.
Picker
➔ It is a parts which attach with a spindle. Its get motion from picking arm and
this motion help the shuttle to passing one side to another side. It made by
plastics.
Temple
➔ A temple is an adjustable stretcher used on a loom to maintain the width and
improve the edges of the woven fabric.The parts at the edges of the cloth
which supports to maintain fixed dimension in width.
Ring temple

In ring temples the rings are usually at an angle of 12 deg to 21 deg and the angle
reduces in steps of 3 deg towards the centre of the cloth.
Roller temples
➔ The roller temples usually have two rollers supported at both ends which
guide the fabric in the warp directions by means of raised points. The rollers
are usually of steel and are covered with rubber or plastics.
➔ Ring and roller temples hold the fabric in the selvedge zones only and
stretches the fabric outwards.
Lease Rod
➔ Another guiding device it is for the warp yarns. These are two sorts of wooden
or glass rods set between the whip rolls and the heddles. Alternating warp
threads can be kept separate by passing over and under these rods.
 Types of Looms

Hand Loom This is mainly used in unorganized sector. Operations like shedding and picking is done
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by using manual power.This is one of the major sources of employment generation in rural areas.

Power Loom: It was designed by Edmund Cartwright in 1780s (during the industrial revolution). All the
operations of the loom are automatic except the change of the pirn.

Automatic Loom: In this power loom, the exhausted pirn is replenished by the full one without
stoppages. Under-pick system is a requirement for these looms.
Multiphase Loom Multiple sheds can be formed simultaneously in this looms and thus productivity can be
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increased by a great extent. It has failed to gain commercial success.

Shuttle-less Loom Weft is carried projectiles, rapiers or fluids in case of shuttle-less looms. The rate of
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production is much higher for these looms. Besides, the quality of the products is also better and the product
range much broader compared to that of Power looms. Most of the modern mills are equipped with different
types of shuttle-less looms based on the product range.

Circular Loom: Tubular fabrics like hose-pipes and sacks are manufactured by circular looms.
Motions in a loom

It is classified into 2 types of motions,Namely:

● Primary motions.
● Secondary motions
Primary motions

Primary motions are classified into 3 types,namely:

● Shedding.
● Picking.
● Beat up.
What is shedding
● It is the process by which the warp sheet is divided into two groups so that a clear
passage is created for the weft yarn or weft carrying device to pass through it.
● One group of yarns (red yarns) either moves in the upward direction or stay in the up
position (if they are already in up position) . Thus they form the top shed line.
● Another group of yarns (green yarns) either moves in the downward direction or stay in
the down position (if they are already in down position). Thus they form the bottom shed
line.
.The motion forms “the shed” by dividing the warp ends into two sheets, thus providing a
path for the weft.

■ This is done by raising and/or lowering frames.

■ Shed geometry and shed characteristics require a great consideration and precision
because it is the zone in which the yarns are converted into the fabric.

■ The basic functions of weaving are performed in this area.

● Except for jacquard shedding, warp yarns are not controlled individually
during the shedding operation.
● Healds are used to control a large number of warp yarns. The upward and
downward movements of healds are controlled either by cam or dobby
shedding mechanisms.
● The movement of the healds is not continuous. After reaching the top or
bottom position, the healds, in general, remain stationary for some duration.
This is known as ‘dwell’. In general, the shed changes after every pick i.e. the
insertion of weft.
Geometry of shedding
■ The path followed by the warp threads in an open shed is longer.
■ The additional length required for warp ends should be taken either by the
warp extension, as in many of the elastic textile material, or by the regulation
of the yarn delivery.

■ For the first case, the warp yarns are withstood the higher tension forces
when the shed is opened.
■ For the latter case, tension acting on the warp yarn is constant but position of
the cloth fell is moveable.
■ Using the longer back shed length is preferable to obtain a less degree of
warp extension or tension in the open shed, essential for silk weaving.
■ The shorter back shed length assists in separation of the upper and lower
warp sheets and formation of a clear shed, preferable for weaving fabrics from
hairy coarse yarns.
Size of shed
■ Sizeof shed is very critical. It should allow a secured weft
insertion.
■ The requirements of shed opening are determined by

❑ the means of weft insertion and

❑ beat up motion.

■ It is desirable to have a small shed opening (H) in order to reduce the lift of
heald frames and therefore to reduce the stress on the warp.

■ However, the magnitude of H is mostly determined by the size of weft

insertion device.
■ Shed size can be expressed in terms of the front shed angle.

■ The shed angle may be as low as 150 to 180 on a gripper

projectile weaving machine .
■ In general, the reduced shed may be used with the smooth warps, for
example, with the filament warps.
■ It cannot be used with low grade warps, because the sticking warp ends
cannot be separated in a small shed.
■ Shed angle should not exceed 250 with very poor warps, because it would
require excessive lift of the farthest heald shafts from the beat-up line.
Timings of the shed opening
■ Timing of the shed opening is also critical.
■ Healds cross at 0 0 .
❑ Heald shafts become level when the reed is at its most forward position.
■ Healds cross at 270 0 .

❑ Heald shafts become level well before the reed reaches its most forward
position.
❑ When the reed is at the front dead, a new shed is partly opened.
❑ The timing of shed opening is earlier than the former one.

■ Relative timing of ‘the shed change’ with respect to the reed beat up can be
adjusted.
 Shed characteristics
Regarding top and bottom shed positions of the heald shafts in an open shed,
the shed which is built up may be in different forms.

Clear Shed: suitable for any type of weft insertion, especially jet

Semi clear shed: rigid rapier, shuttle

Unclear shed : equal heald shaft lift and equal warp tension
Shed geometry for symmetrical shead
■ Top and bottom sheds are identical.
■ It is is advantageous for picking because it gives a similar warp
tension in both shed levels, but it is disadvantageous, for the same
reason, for the beat-up.
■ The air-jet weaving machines have been provided with a cradle which
secures a symmetrical shed during the picking and different warp
tensions in the shed levels during the beat-up.
Asymmetrical shed

❑ Shed geometry
■ Top and bottom sheds are not identical.
❑ Asymmetrical course of the heald shaft lift
■ asymmetrical to the vertical axis
■ asymmetrical to the horizontal axis
Early shedding
■ An early shedding prevents the pick from springing back
when the reed recedes and develops a substantial friction
between ends and picks which helps
❑ obtain a closer pick spacing,
❑ redistribute of the warp threads more evenly.
■ Furthermore, if the back rest is above its normal position,
alternate warp threads will be relatively slack and therefore
free to move laterally to achieve a more uniform spacing.
Early shedding

❑ helps obtain a closer pick spacing

❑ improves the warp cover, giving fabric a better
appearance
❑ helps remove reed marks, giving fabric a better
appearance
■ This is very common in cotton weaving.
■ It offers advantages in widely different circumstances.
❑ In weaving closely set cloths like typewriter ribbon, poplin, and canvas, it
helps to achieve a close pick spacing, where the warp cover factors are
high enough to ensure a good cover anyway.
❑ In weaving more openly set plain cloths, pick spacing is not a problem,
but warp cover is, and here again the combination of early shedding and
a raised back rest is likely to be beneficial.
Types of shedding

■ Bottom closed shed: too much wasted movement, used

in hand looms and single lift jacquards
■ Semi-open shed: double lift jacquards.
■ Center closed shed: for leno fabrics, still used in
some jacquards.
■ Open shed: for most purposes, ideal type of shed, no
wasted movement.
Shedding mechanisms

Main types of mechanism is:

Cam

Dobby

Jacquard
General characteristics of cam mechanism

No. of picks/repeat
▪ limited to 8 or 10 picks/repeat
No. of heald frames (or no. of ends/repeat)
▪ limited to 8, 10 or 12 heald shafts
Advantages and disadvantages

Simple and robust Restricted design possibilities

Inexpensive for maintenance and cost Inconvenient for frequent pattern changes

Not likely to cause faults Causes more faults

Characteristics of dobby design
■ Dobbies are much more versatile
No. of picks/repeat
▪ virtually no limit to the number of picks /repeat (i.e. 5000 picks)
No. of heald frames (or no. of ends/repeat)
▪ normally built up to control 20-28 shafts
▪ Together with the use of fancy DID, sufficient to produce weave or
combination of weaves arranged to give stripes, checks or designs of
geometrical character.
▪ Handkerchiefs, tablecloths, and towels with contrasting pattern
 Characteristics of jacquard design
■ For designs that require the reproduction of freely drawn
shapes, it is usually necessary for each end in the repeat
to be separately controlled.

■The most elaborate designs (reproduction of freely drawn

shapes, i.e. floral designs) are woven on an intricately
constructed loom called the Jacquard loom, and the weave of
these fabrics is called the jacquard weave.
Cam shedding
■ The heald shaft motion is operated by cams or eccentrics.
■ These motive cams convert the rotary motion of the main shaft of the
weaving machine into the reciprocating motion of the heald frames.
■ Cam operated shedding mechanism may be positive or negative in action.
❑ Positive shedding: heald shafts are both raised and lowered by the cams or eccentric
system of the shedding mechanism.
❑ Negative shedding: heald shafts are either raised or lowered by the mechanism, but
are returned by the action of some external device, such as springs, hence, they must
be provided with reversing motion.
■ Design camscan control the arbitrary course of the heald shaft movement
to suit the given technological process and the dynamics of the
mechanism.
■ A cam mechanism can
❑ operate the warp opening of the necessary size lifting and lowering
or position change
and
❑ keep the heald shafts at rest during picking at top or bottom shed
positions
Parameters which affect the cam design
Lifting plan (or weave)
❑ How many times the heald shaft is to be lifted or lowered and their
sequence
❑ It is machined all around the cam surface, hence, the cam contour
includes all design information given in the lifting plan (or weave
repeat)
No. of picks in the lifting plan (or in the weave)
❑ Angular portion or segment on the surface of the cam allocated
for each pick
❑ The part of cam contour to be followed by the roller in each weaving
cycle.
Dwell period of the heald shaft
❑ It is normally determined by the type of weaving machine ( the given
parameter of weaving machine related to its type and width).
❑ This given dwell period in terms of angular rotation of the main shaft is
converted to a particular cam angle
Shed type
❑ Open, center-closed sheds, etc.
Cam throw
❑ It depends on the size of shed or the movement given to the heald shaft
and the leverage between the cam and the heald shaft
❑ Related to the size of cam
Cam settings for a design
■ A new cam arrangement requires to check and change, if necessary, the
following parameters

1. Design cams: suitable for a particular job (or weave)

2. No. of cams: each cam or a pair of cams can control one of the heald
shafts.

3. Transmission ratio of the rotary motion between the main shaft

and the cam shaft: It depends on the number of picks in the lifting
plan( or design)

4. The relative positions of cams in the set: It depends on the weave.

What is picking
● The insertion of weft or weft carrying device (shuttle, projectile or rapier)
through the shed is known as picking.
It is classified into:
● Shuttle loom: weft package is carried by the wooden shuttle
● Projectile loom: weft is carried by metallic or composite projectile
● Airjet loom: weft is inserted by jet of compressed air
● Waterjet loom: weft is inserted by water jet
● Rapier loom: weft is inserted by flexible or rigid rapiers
● With the exception of shuttle loom, weft is always inserted from only one side
of the loom. The timing of picking is extremely important specially in case of
shuttle loom.
● The shuttle should enter into the shed and leave the shed when the shed is
sufficiently open.
● Otherwise, the movement of the shuttle will be obstructed by the warp yarns.
As a result, the warp yarns may break due to abrasion or the shuttle may get
trapped in the shed which may cause damage to reed, shuttle and warp
yarns.
What is beating
● Beat up is the action by which the newly inserted weft yarn is pushed up to
the cloth fell.
● Cloth fell is the boundary up to which the fabric has been woven. The loom
component responsible for the beat up is called ‘reed’.
● The reed, which is like a metallic comb, is carried by sley which moves
forward and backwards due to the crank-connecting rod mechanism. This is
known as crank beat up. In modern looms, beat up is done by cam
mechanism which is known as cam beat up. Generally, one beat up is done
after the insertion of one pick.
Secondary motions

● For uninterrupted manufacturing of fabrics, two additional secondary motions

are required. These are take-up and let-off. Take-up motion winds the newly
formed fabric on the cloth roller either continuously or intermittently after the
beat up. The take-up speed also determines the picks/cm value in the fabric
at loom state. As the take-up motion winds the newly formed fabric, tension in
the warp sheet increases. To compensate this, the weavers beam is rotated
by the let-off mechanism so that some new warp sheet is released.
● Take up motions ensure the winding of fabric continuously as soon as it is
produced.
● Ensuring uniform pick spacing is also another function of take up motion.
When the fabric is wound by the take up system, the tension in the warp
increases and thus it is required to release the warp from the weaver's beam
which is performed by the let off motion.
● Take up motions ensure the winding of fabric continuously as soon as it is
produced. Ensuring uniform pick spacing is also another function of take up
motion.
● When the fabric is wound by the take up system, the tension in the warp
increases and thus it is required to release the warp from the weaver's beam
which is performed by the let off motion.
Let off mechanism
● The let off motion is the secondary motion of weaving which is used to
release the warp yarns from the weavers beam so that weaving can take
place.
● It is a mechanism which provides the facility to Let off the warp yarn from the
beam.
Objective of Let off motion:

❏ To maintain the free length of the warp yarns.

❏ To control the yarn tension.
❏ To maintain uniform weaving.
Types of let off motion:
❏ Positive let off motion.
❏ Negative let off motion.
Negative Let-off :

In this mechanism the warp yarn is released from the beam by the help of a chain and
ruffle arrangement. In this mechanism we have to use this separate mechanism for
releasing the warp yarn from the beam.

Positive Let off :

In case of positive Let-off motion the warp tension is controlled by a mechanism

which drives the warp beam at a correct rate. As the tension in the warp increases,
the backrest is depressed to maintain a uniform tension.
Take up motions

Objectives:
The objective of take-up is to draw forward the woven cloth as a new pick is inserted in
order to maintain the line of fabric formation and pick spacing constant.
Auxiliary motions

Auxiliary motions are mainly related to the activation of stop motions in case of
any malfunctioning like warp breakage, weft breakage or shuttle trapping within
the shed. The major auxiliary motions are as follows:
● Warp stop motion (in case of warp breakage)
● Weft stop motion (in case of weft breakage)
● Warp protector motion (in case of shuttle trapping)
Warp stop motion

Warp stop motion may be defined as, the stop of loom when a warp thread break.
or Warp stop motion stops the loom immediately when a warp thread break during
weaving process.Warp stop-motion stops the loom in the event of an end break.
The system is activated by the lightweight metallic drop wires which have profiled
shape

Purpose of warp stop motion:

The main purpose of warp stop motion is to stop the loom when warp end break
or warp thread excessively loose. So that the unrepeatable faults is avoided
Reason

If the breaking of warp thread is not detected immediately, then the loose thread
will tend to become entangled round adjacent thread to break and create a faults
known as a flat in fabric
Weave design

Fabric weave design implies the pattern of interlacement between the warp and
weft yarns. The design influences the aesthetics as well as the properties of the
woven fabrics. The design of woven fabrics is manipulated by changing the
following two things.
● Drafting
● Lifting plan
The design is constructed on point paper by using cross (×) and blank. The
cross means that the end is passing over the pick. The blank means the end
is passing below the pick.
Drafting
● Drafting determines the allocation of ends to healds i.e. which end will be
controlled by which heald.
● Generally, drafting is made in such a way that minimum number of healds is
required to produce a particular design. This implies that if the interlacement
pattern of two ends is identical then they should be controlled by the same
heald shaft.
● In case of drafting, a cross means that the heald frame is up and a blank
means that the heald frame is down.
Lifting plan

● Lifting plan shows the position of healds (up or down) for different peaks i.e.
which heald or healds will be lifted in which pick. It is dependent on the design
and the drafting.
● Lifting plan is shown at the right hand side of weave design
Straight draft
● In case of straight draft, a diagonal line is created by the crosses. This implies
that, generally, end one is controlled by heald one, end two is controlled by
heald two and so on
Pointed Draft
● In case of pointed draft, a pointed line is created by the crosses.The repeat of
the design contains more than one ends with similar interlacement pattern.
For example the interlacement pattern is same for ends 1 and 7 and thus they
are allocated to one heald (heald number 1).
● It is also true for ends 2 and 6, 3 and 5, 4 and 8. Therefore, this design which
is having eight ends in the repeat requires only four healds. Pointed twill
weaves are made using pointed draft.
Skip draft

In case of skip draft, two or more healds are controlled by a single shedding cam.
Plain woven fabrics can be woven with two healds. However, for heavy (high areal
density) plain woven fabrics, the number of ends is very high. It often becomes
convenient to use four healds for the heavy plain woven fabrics. Therefore, the
number of ends controlled by a single heald becomes less as compared to the
situation with only two healds.
Different types of weave
➢ Plain weave.
➢ Rib weave.
➢ Basket weave.
➢ Twill weave.
➢ Herringbone weave.
➢ Satin weave.
➢ Leno weave.
➢ Oxford weave.
➢ Jacquard weave.
➢ Dobby weave
Plain weave

● This is a weave with the most simple interlacing but it makes for a
very strong and firm fabric because these interlacings are more
frequent than for any other weave.
● In this weave, the warp thread is interlaced over the weft thread by
alternately lifting and lowering of the yarns. ie each and every weft
thread goes under and over the warp threads across the width of the
fabric.
The advantage of this weave is that it is quite strong and durable and produces
very fine good quality fabrics.

It is also called tabby weave or taffeta weave or linen weave. Also called Panama
weave.

Hopsack is a plain weave with two or more threads in weft and warp interlaced
instead of one. Also called Celtic weave. It is popular as a weave for suit fabric.
Rib weave
● This is a plain weave in which extra thread is incorporated as reinforcement at
regular intervals.The extra thread along the weft and warp gives the look of a
chequered pattern on the fabric. This extra thread gives extra strength to the
fabric and resistance from tearing.
● A variation of the plain weave. Here, either weft yarn or warp yarn is woven
raised because it is a thicker yarn ie the warp and weft yarns are of different
weights. Usually, it is the weft yarn which is thicker in which case there is an
appearance of prominent ribs in the horizontal direction.
Basket weave

This is a variation of the plain weave but with more than one thread. Two or more
warp fibers alternately interlace with two or more weft fibers. Instead of the over
under pattern in a plain weave we have a over over under under pattern.

The resultant fabric has a matt weave and flexibility and a looser construction. It is
not as durable as plain weave, though and may shrink in the wash. It is difficult to
sew. Another name is a hopsack weave
Twill weave
● In this weave, one or more warp fibers alternately weave over and under
two or more weft fibers repeatedly (Weft-faced)or one or more weft fibers
alternately weave over and under two or more warp fibers repeatedly (warp-
faced).
● This results in a strong and soft fabric which has more drape than all
other weaves with a self-design effect, with parallel diagonal ribs
formed left-to-right or right-to-left but the fabric has a smooth surface.
● There are clear diagonal lines on the surface of the fabric. The back side of
this weave is rough and will show the opposite pattern of the front. Fabrics
with twill weave are more durable, heavy and wrinkle resistant than ones
with plain weave
● In denim, inarguably the most famous twill fabric, the weft-thread is white or
off-white and the warp-thread is indigo-dyed.
● Twills have a wale. Wales can be S or Z. If the wales run from upper right to
lower left the weave is called right-hand twill / z twill
● If the wales run from lower left to right top the weave is called left hand twill.
● When there is a combination of right-hand and left hand twill it is called a
broken twill.
Variations

Variations : One and one (Pick & Pick) has light and dark warp and weft.
3 by 1 twill has three threads crossing over one weft thread. This is a
common denim weave. 2 by 1 twill has two warp thread crossing over
one weft thread.
Herringbone weave
● This refers to a broken twill weave which gives a herringbone (zig zag)
pattern with right and left twills appearing alternatively side by side , both
having the same width.
● The herringbone weave is also called feather twill or arrowhead twill. Other
than the attractiveness of its design it has all the qualities of a twill weave.
This is similar to other broken twill designs like the chevron pattern.
Satin weave
● Floats one warp yarn over four or more weft yarns, then tied down with one
thread, resulting in a smooth face.
● Common Fabrics: Satin, satin-weave fabrics out of fabrics such as cotton &
Charmeuse.
● The fibers used are filament fibers like silk or nylon. The fabric in this woven
pattern will be very smooth and lustrous and has a flexible structure, because
of the long floats. The greatest luster will be in the lengthwise direction.
● The disadvantage is that the fabric fibers will easily snag so this weave is not
considered as strong as the other weaves.The advantage of this weave is its
own disadvantage – it is the long floating yarns that snag.
Sateen weave
● The weave with short staple yarns like cotton.
● The floats will be in the weft direction ie continuous weft yarn, with as few
interruptions of warp as possible
● The fabric is not as lustrous as the satin weave fabric but they are more
durable.
Leno weave
● In this weave, wrap yarns do not lie parallel to each other as in other weaves;
the adjacent warp fibers (two or more) are twisted around consecutive weft
fibers (one or more)to form a spiral pair .
● It results in a sheer open weave fabric which is at the same time strong. It is
also called gauze weave
Oxford weave
● In this two, thin warp yarns are woven to each very soft, thicker yarn in the
weft direction.
● This results in the thin warp yarns to break leaving holes. The resultant fabric
is very fine and soft. In a similar Pinpoint weave weft-thread alternatively pass
over and under two warp-threads.
Jacquard weave
● This weave is produced on a jacquard loom.
● The weave results in a fabric which is strong and lustrous and has a luxurious
look and feel. Jacquards can be made one color or a mix of colors and can be
used to create simple as well as complex patterns.
● More color designs can be produced.
Dobby weave
● This is a patterned plain weave with small designs/geometric patterns.
● A special dobby machines are required to create this weave. The machine
selectively raises some warp threads and selectively depresses others with
the help of a dobby card.
● The fabric which is woven this way is comparatively flat and fine.
Quality control
● The particular standard of product which satisfies the customers need is
nothing but the “QUALITY” of the product.
● Testing of the product is done and parameters of that product are verified.
● Maintaining these parameters in given tolerance limit of standards, this
process is called as “Quality Control”.
Objectives of quality control
● To manufacture the required quality
● To fulfill customer’s requirements
● To reduce the wastage.
● To make more profit at minimum
Quality control process

Quality control is not a single step procedure, it is a multi-step procedure in which

following steps are carried out.

● Testing of material.
● Analysis of
● Corrective action according to results from the

To obtain a quality end product these steps must be carried out on the woven
fabric which is to be processed.
Defects of woven fabric

Bad Selvedge:
● Inappropriate shuttle wire strain, twisted shuttle jaw, shuttle split, increasingly
pressure on selvedge yarns, late shedding bringing about scouring of shuttle
to the selvedge and ill- advised determination of selvedge weave for the fabric
being woven are the primary explanations behind bad selvedge.
Broken end
● This problem is raised in warp direction when the warp yarn broke in a place
of fabric. This problem could be raised during weaving or finishing.
Broken weft
● High weft pressure, ill-advised form of pirn, knots at the nose or pursue of
pirns, and harmed surface of pirns, shuttle tongue not in level, harsh places
inside the van, harmed nylon circles,
● Also by sloughing off or approximately fabricated weft bundle, transport eye
chipped or broken, weft caught in the crate, selvedge closes cutting the weft,,
inappropriate arrangement of cone in weft feeder, lower curve in weft bringing
about weft opening out in air-fly weavers, missing the picks, and harsh
treatment of cones are the principle explanations behind higher weft breaks.
Weft bar
● At the point when count of yarn changes starting with one cone then onto the
next cone then a bar of weft will be showed up in fabric subsequent to
weaving.
Loose weft or snarl
● When a bunch of or coil of yarn slips from the pirn during weaving then thick
yarn bunches or coils appear on the fabric.
Starting mark
● Thick or thin places occurring in fabric due to pick density variation when
starting the loom, causing starting marks.
Double end
● This sort of issue is created in woven fabrics when the two parts of the warp
get together subsequent to sizing.
Slubs or knots
● Knots or slubs in a portion of the weft or warp yarns are viewed as flaws when
they are obvious to an accomplished individual and when they ruin the
presence of the fabrics.
● This visual evaluation is adequate to test whether the shortcomings would be
unsuitable in an article of clothing and no resilience is allowed for flaws
recognized utilizing this technique for control.
Oil spots
➔ Staining on a neighborhood a substrate that might be impervious to expel by
washing or cleaning. It happens during turning, weaving or wrapping up.
➔ It is additionally frequently found in the woven fabric. It is likewise created in
woven fabric if an excessive amount of oiling has done on the loom parts.
Bowing effect
● Bow or bowing is a common fabric defect in woven fabrications where weft or
filling yarns are displaced from a line which needs to be perpendicular to the
selvage and lie in a wave or arc across the width of the fabric.
● Bowing can be called as defect but in case of some woven patterns (2/2
Twills), bowing is being introduced in fabric to avoid residual bowing in final
finished fabric.
● Picks are inserted at an angle of 90o during beating action so Warp and Weft
should be at perpendicular angle always. But it never happens. Post beating
(fell of cloth), fabric goes through lot of processes and formation of bowing
happens.
Bowing formation at weaving stage

❏ Now a days fabric are being produced on high speed shuttle looms, where
fabric selvedge at both end is being held by temples having sharp pins
impregnated in fabric Which in turn avoid fabric to roll back post beating
action due to let off motion force.
❏ During take up action when fabric is being pulled then application of force is
more at center of fabric, and less at selvedge due to temple hold. And bowing
of 1” to 1.5” is being generated in fabric at both selvedge ends. This is called
as Residual Bowing at Greige fabric.
S NO DEFECT NAME APPEARANCE CAUSES REMEDIES

1 Crack Too few picks per A. Bad start up A. More care

inch in a certain procedure by required while
area. weaver pick finding,

B. Let of or take B. Stop loom,

up worn or call supervisor
broken or mechanic

C. Improper
tension on warp

D. Weft feeler
problem
2 Float Distortion of A. Fluff or Remove the
in weft knot behind cause
direction the reed.
generally
accompanies B. Spare end
with warp weaving in
break
C. Knot with
long tails.

D. Warp stop
motion not
working
3 Wrong Drawing Irregular pattern Weaver Correct the draw
warp way in the incorrectly
cloth. drawing in the
healds.
Conclusion
● As the conclusion, weaving is a necessary process in fabric manufacturing.
● It also can produce a good end products with smoothness, less hairiness and
strength characteristics of fabric because it has weaving preparation process.
● Weaving is only one step in the long process that results in a finished textile.