COSMECEUTIC

ALS

Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals

BY SOWJANYA
What are Cosmeceuticals
 Cosmeceuticals are the cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients
purporting to have medical or drug like benefits.

 It is an ingredient with medicinal properties that manifests beneficial topical actions

and provides protection against degenerative skin conditions and improves
appearance by delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin.

 The word cosmeceuticals was coined by Raymond reed who was the founding
member of the US Society of Cosmetics Chemists in 1961.

 In 1971, Albert M. Kligman reactivated the intrest in cosmeceuticals by developing

a formula to improve the appearance of UV damaged and wrinkled skin using
Retinoic acid.
 Origin of Cosmetics
 Egyptians are the first to recognize the health properties of cosmetics by Circa 4000
BC. The ancient Sumerians, Babylonions and Hebrews also applied cosmetics.

 Up to 19th centuary there was no clear distinction between cosmetics and

pharmaceuticals, this seperation has occurred when first mordern pharmaceutical
has developed.
 According to FD&C Act, a product can be a drug or cosmetic or both,
but the term cosmeceuticals has no meaning under the law. So the term
cosmeceuticals was not recognized by the Act.

COSMETICS: These are the COSMECEUTICALS: These are the

substances or formulations which are
introduced into or applied on any part of
the human body for clensing, beutifying,
promoting attractiveness or altering the
appearance with out affecting structure
and functional activity.
These consist of mixture of natural and
high amount of synthetic compounds.
substances or formulations which are
introduced into or applied on any part of
human body which penetrate into the
inner layers and alters the structural and
functional activity along with some
pharmacological actions.
These consist of high amount of active
ingredients along with few synthetic
compounds.
 Types of Cosmeceuticals
 Sunscreen Agents
 Retinoids
 Moisturizers
 Antioxidants
 Hydroxiacids (alpha, beta, poly)
 Lightening Agents
 Botanicals/Plant extracts
 Epidermal Growth Factors
 Proteins/Peptides
 Other Vitamins & Minerals
Specific agents of recent intrest are
 OTC Retinoids
 Niacinamide
 NAG
 Topical Peptides[alternative retinoids]
Sunscreen Agents
 These are regarded by dermatologist as single most important formulation
that should be applied daily.
 UV-A and UV-B radiation causes disruption of extracellular matrix which
is the cause of photo aging.
 Broad spectrum agents are used for photo-aging therapy.
Ex: Enzophenones [dioxybenzone, oxybenzone, susilobenzone],having
spectrum around 320-340 nm, gives protection against UV-A and UV-B.
Retinoids
 These are the most prevalent cosmeceuticals used in market. These are
natural and synthetic derivatives of Vitamin-A.
 These are premier evidence based comeceuticals as they function through
surface cell receptor interaction to produce a clinically defined effect.
Ex: Topical Tretinoin which is used to improve the face and photo
damaged skin by reducing wrinkles, decreasing laxity, bleaching
hyperpigmented spots and bringing about smoother surface of skin.
Moisturizers
 These are the most useful products for management of various skin
conditions.
 These products include emollients, occlusives, humectants.
 Majority of moisturizers enhance skin barrier function and used for
hydration of skin.
 These claim to make skin smoother, softener, more radient, less wrinkled
and firmer.
 Moisturizers based on materials such as Petrolatum, Silicon, Mineral oil,
Glycerin enchance skin barrier function.
Antioxidants
 These enhance skin natural antioxidant action in the skin.
 These reduce free radical damage by blocking the oxidative process in cell
and also inhibit inflammation in causes collagen depletion.
 These are used protect the skin from photo damage, photo aging, skin
cancer.
Ex: Vitamin- A, C & E, Alpha lipoic acid, Lactobionic acid, Ubiquinone.
Hydroxyacids ( alpha, beta )
 These are the organic acids classified into Alpha hydroxyacids (glycolic
acid, lactic acid) AHA’S. Beta hydroxyacids (salicylic acid) BHA’S based
on their molecular weight.
 These are derived natural products so theses are called as fruit acids.
 These are used as active dermatological drug and cosmetic ingredient.
 AHA’S increase the synthesis of glucoseaminglycans which improve the
quality of elastic fibers and increase the density of collagen.
 BHA’S have dermolytic properties and helps in various xerotic and
ichthyotic disorders.
Lightening Agents
 These are also called as depigmenting agents.
Ex: Hydroquinone, aloesin, arbutic acid, azelaic acid, glycolic acid, kojic
acid Vitamin-C, NAG.
Hydroxyquinone is considered as most effective one, it acts by inhibiting
the conversion of tyrosin to melanin.
Epidermal Growth Factors (EPG)
 These are naturally occuring chemicals in the body which influence cell
proliferation and differentiation.
 EPG stimulates epidermal growth and used in the treatment of burns and
excision wounds.
 Transforming Growth Factor(TGF) stimulates normal skin growth, cellular
growth & repair.
 TGF is a mediator of Fibrosis( tissue repair), Angiogenesis(formation of
new blood vessels) and it promotes healing of wounds.
Proteins/Peptides
 Peptides have potential to improve the appearance of aging skin.
 These are of various types Signal peptides, Carrier peptides,
Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides.
 These act by wound healing mechanism that activates fibroblast in response
fragmented chains of elastin and collagen.
 Peptides increase collagen production to improve akin appearance and
uniform smoother skin.
OTC Retinoids
 These are the analogues of Retinoids which show less irritation compared
to retinoids.
 These are classified in to 3 types :
 Vitamin-A metabolites: Transretinoic acid, Retinaldehyde, Adapalene,
Tazarotene.
 Vitamin-A :Retinol.
 Vitamin-A esters: Retinyl acetate, Retinyl propionate, Retinyl palmitate.
 These show more bioavailability and Anti aging propreties.
Niacinamide(vitamin-b3)
 These are the precursors for NADH &NADPH which are responsible for
various metabolic functions
 This B-complex vitamin can improve the barrier function of the epidermis
and act as melanasome transfer inhibitor resulting in reduced
hyperpigmentation.
NAG
 These consist of high amount of glucosamine.
 These prevent occuring of new signs of photo damage and alter the
imperfections by interrupting the chemical signals which promote melanin
production.
Topical Peptides
 These are regarded as cellular messengers
Produced from amino acids designed to mimic
Peptide fragments with endogenous biologic
Activity
Ex: 5-amino acid fragments( pentapeptide lysine
threonine-threonine-lysine-serine[KTTKS].It plays an important role in
signalling fibroblast to produce collagen which improves wrinkles of the
skin.
Other examples are Pal-KTTKS, Pal-KTTKS with niacinamide vs. palcebo
which has more effect in reducing wrinkles.
Botanical Extracts
 Cosmeceuticals include plant extracts as active ingredients which topical
and pharmacological action. Following few HERBS are the examples
which show both cosmetic and pharmacological action.
 Coconut oil: It is produced by crushing copra, the dried
kernel, which contains about 60-65% of the oil.
Coconut oil contains a high amount of glycerides of lower chain fatty acids.
Coconut oil is derived from the fruit or seed of the coconut palm tree Cocos
nucifera, family Arecaceae. The melting point of coconut oil is 24 to 25°C
(75-76ºF) and thus can be used easily in liquid or solid forms and is often
used in cooking and baking. Coconut oil is excellent as a skin moisturizer
and pharmaceutical action.
Sunflower oil:
It is the non-volatile oil extracted from sunflower seeds obtained from
Helianthus annuus, family Asteraceae. Sunflower oil contains lecithin,
tocopherols, carotenoids and waxes. It smoothing properties and is
considered non- comedogenic . A has n-volatile oil extracted from
sunflower simple yet cost-effective oil, well tried and tested for generations
in a wide variety of emulsions formulated for face and body Products.
Jojoba oil:
It is a mixture of long chain, linear liquid wax esters extracted from the
seeds of the desert shrub simmondsia chinenesis, family simmondsiaceae.
Jojoba oil is easily refined to remove any odor, color it is oxidatively
stable, and is often used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and as a carrier oil for
exotic fragrances. Human sebum and jojoba oil are virtually identical.
Sebum protects and moisturizes the skin and hair but is stripped away by
chemicals, pollutants, sun and the aging process, resulting in dry skin and
hair. Jojoba oil replenishes what skin and hair lose and restores them to
their natural pH balance.
Gingko
 In China and Japan, the leaves and nuts of the Ginkg biloba (G. biloba) tree
have been used for thousands of years to treat various medical conditions,
including poor blood circulation; hypertension; poor memory, and
depression, particularly among the elderly; male impotence. In addition, it
is gaining a similar reputation as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory
agent. Ginkgo biloba belongs to family Ginkgoaceae, which grows to a
huge size. The G. biloba extract EGb 761, prepared from the tree's leaves, is
a natural mixture containing flavone glycosides (33%), mostly quercetin
and kaempferol derivatives, and terpenes (6%), which has exhibited the
capacity to isolated from the isolated from the leaves of L.inermis has
shown significant antifungal leaves of L.inermis has shown significant
antifungal
Aloevera
 Aloe vera is a herbal plant species belonging to liliaceae family that is
found only in cultivation, having no naturally occurring populations,
although closely related aloes do have presence in northern Africa.
 It is an ingredient in many cosmetics because it heals, moisturizes, and
softens skin.
 Simply cut one of the aloe vera leaves to extract the soothing gel [4]. Aloe
vera contains amino acids like leucine, isoleucine, saponin glycosides that
provide cleansing action, vitamins A,C,E,B, choline, B12 and folic acid and
provide antioxidant activity.
 This is used in multipurpose skin treatment. Also it is used in dietary
supplements for healthy digestive system.
 Aloe vera consist of aloen which induces
effects which is removed before preparing
formulations.
Turmeric:
 It is a deep yellow-orange powder that comes from the rhizomatous
herbaceous perennial plant called Curcuma longa belonging to the family
Zingiberaceae.
 It consist of alkaloids like curcuminoids, curcumin, demethoxy curcumin,
bisdemethoxy curcumin.
 It also consist of volatile oils like tumerone, altone, zingiberene.
 Turmeric can be used cooking in our daily life's, in Digestive disorders,
Liver diseases, Atherosclerosis, Cancer, Osteoarthritis, Menstrual problems
in women, Bacterial disorders, Eye disorders etc.
Uses of curcumin in different disorders
THANK YOU