Functional Clothing:

The emerging segment of

Technical Textiles

Dr Deepti Gupta
Indian Institute of Technology Delhi,
INDIA

Origin Africa, April 2012, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

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Everyday clothing vs
Functional Clothing
Normal Clothing : Fulfils basic needs –
aesthetic to simple protection from
elements.
Functional Clothing : Engineered to
deliver pre-defined performance to
user, over and above its normal
functions.
Provide protection from hazardous to
life threatening situations, facilitate
healing or recuperation and reduce
fatigue during sporting activities.
Aesthetics vs performance
 Drivers for growth
• Advances in technical fibres and
fabrics
• Advances in garment manufacturing
technologies
• Availability of military technologies

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Functional clothing: characteristics
• Physiological requirements - shape, size, mass,
strength and metabolic activities.
• Biomechanical requirements - dynamic and
behavioral analysis of human activity.
• Ergonomic requirements - mechanical
characteristics of clothing should match the
mechanics of human body.
• Psychological requirements – Peer group, pride,
social and cultural background, aesthetics.
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 User
User Survey Activity

Work
Environment
User
Requirements
Material Accessories
selection
Garment Design
Seams & Size and Fit
Stitches
Material Pattern Design
selection
Process flow
Garment
Openings Assembly
& closures

Testing & Bench scale Pattern Design

for design of
Layering &
Zoning
Analysis
Field Trials Technical
clothing
Not Appropriate Appropriate

Production
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 Functional Clothing-
Classification Based on Application

1. Protective (extreme weather, NBC, injuries)

2. Medical (therapeutic, bio sensing)
3. Sports (performance enhancing)
4. Vanity (body sculpting, body support)
5. Cross functional (military, space suits)
6. Special needs (disabled, elderly, pregnant)

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 Protective Clothing
1.1. Protection against environmental hazards - Natural or
occupational
Extreme heat, fire, cold, rain, snow, dust, wind, UV exposure.

1.2. Protection against biological, Chemical and Radiation hazards

Ingestion, penetration or skin contact of hazardous chemicals,
body fluids, toxic gases, germs or radioactive particulate matter.

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 Protective Clothing
1.3 Protection against injuries
High impact –
• Extreme sport applications - motor
biking, snow boarding
• Ballistic.
Blunt impact-
• Anti –riot , cricket ball hockey, collisions,
falls.
Cut/ Slash –
• Meat cutting, chain saw work

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 Medical Clothing
2.1 Therapeutic/ Rehabilitation
Compression garments for
burns, venous and lymphatic
disorders, post operative.

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 Medical Clothing
2.1 Therapeutic/ Rehabilitation
Proprioception for bodily function impairment
(body strength, sensory motor skills.

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 2. Medical Clothing
2.2 Biosensing clothing
Used to map critical physiological
parameters -heart rate, blood
oxygenation, pulse rate, body
temperature.
Critical care in ambulatory mode
for elderly, disabled.
Fitness assessment of sports persons
, military personnel.

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 3. Sports Clothing
Minimum restriction, maximum protection, enhanced performance

General Sportswear
• Aesthetic,
• Skin drying, Moisture transport
ing
• Body temperature control th
c lo
• Antibacterial na l
tio
• UV block nc
t Fu
No

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 3. Sports Clothing
Performance sportswear

Compression
Blood circulation, higher oxygen
supply
Lower muscle vibration, reduced
fatigue

Body shape modification

Aerodynamic for wind resistance
Triathlon
shorts
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Proprioception
Muscle support

Aerodynamic 14
 New

4. Vanity Clothing

Clothing designed for body

sculpting
• Used to compress, uplift or
support certain body parts
preferentially to create a
sculpted look.
• Invisible support built into
seams, special construction
techniques.
• Pants, undergarments, Posture
shirt
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http://www.WearItOut.com.au
 4. Vanity Clothing
Eg. Posture enhancing shirt
• Combines the science of proprioception (the
unconscious perception of movement and
spatial orientation arising from stimuli within
the body itself) and targeted skeletal support
technology.

• The body is "cued" by neuro-receptors in the

skin firing messages to the brain to pull the
shoulders back while the integrated support
system provides a subtle pulling and support
action.

Creates a positive anatomical change in the

body- the upper arm and shoulder socket have
been shown to be better aligned. Opedix.com
5. Cross Functional
clothing assemblies
Clothing required to fulfill
several essential functions
– Military Clothing
– Space suits

Protection, performance,
communication, comfort all are
equally critical.
 Cross functional clothing assemblies
Military Clothing
Protection from hazards - ballistic, environmental
(temperature, wind, precipitation, terrain, insects),flame, nuclear, chemical
and biological agents, IR detection, laser, microwaves, static electricity
and mental stress.
Functionality – Perform military tasks with ease, mobility
Compatibility with other elements : helmet, gas mask,
ballistics gear, survival vest, cooling systems and hand and foot gear.
Communication: (GPS, monitoring and discreet devices).
Identification: Friend or foe

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 Space suit
18,000 odd parts, 11 layers,
Everything an astronaut needs to stay alive –.

• Stable internal pressure.

• Mobility- Achieved by careful joint design.
• Breathable oxygen.
• Temperature regulation
• Shielding against UV radiation, particle
radiation
• Protection against small micrometeoroids
• A communication system
• Means to recharge and discharge gases
and liquids
• Means to maneuver, dock, release onto
spacecraft
• Means of collecting and containing solid
and liquid waste
Michael Quante, AATCC NEWS, Nov.2009.
http://mvl.mit.edu/EVA/biosuit/index.html
 Clothing for Special needs

Design considerations
include changed body
shape, limitations of
strength and mobility,
social and
psychological needs.
– Aged, paraplegics,
disabled.

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 In Conclusion
Functional clothing -
• Receptive to new products and technologies
• Highly sophisticated and high-tech.
• Applications are diverse and complex
• Available information is fragmented or protected.

Evolutionary & Interdisciplinary

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Thank you for your attention!!

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