HERBAL FAIRNESS

CREAM
1
PREPARED BY –
ZULI
SHINGALA
2 FAIR AND BEAUTIFUL ??
(EQUAL OR NOT )

 Fairness is considered equal to attractiveness by majority of the

populace.
 Advertisements stating - wanted Fair, Slim and Beautiful Bride ?
 Making the not so fair person feel that they have to do something
to become fair skinned person.
 Or they lose the chance of finding a suitable groom. This
Psychology has become the trading point of the Fairness Cream
Industry.
3 SKIN WHITENING / LIGHTENING /
FAIRNESS PRODUCTS
 Skin lightening products refers to the practice of using substances
for lighten skin tone or provide an even skin complexion by
inhibiting the concentration of melanin.
 The colour of the skin may have a major impact on an
individual’s psychological profile.
 There are products available to treat both hypo and hyper
pigmentation.
 India, being a tropical country has predominantly dark-skinned
people.
 Products to enhance “skin fairness” are available as cosmetic
creams in the market and these are advertised widely.
 Most products are aimed at young women.
4  These are usually in the form of creams or gels or lotions.
 WHAT DOES THE FAIRNESS PRODUCTS DO?
 Inhibit the formation of melanin.
 Reduces pigmentation.
 BY-
 destroying Melanocytes.
 Inhibit Tyrosinase activity, thus inhibit the production of Melanin.
 Affecting the Formation of Tyrosinase.
 When a product claims that its use will result in making the skin
fair, it implies that using it will actually decrease the natural skin
coloration of an individual.
5 HERBAL / NATURAL INGREDIENTS –
EXTRACTS:

 Licorice
 Saffron
 Aloevera
 Manjistha
 Turmeric
 Cucumber
 Papaya
 Lemon
 Rose
 Tulsi
 Milk
 Sandalwood
 Besan
6
SYNTHETIC INGREDIENTS THAT HELP IN SKIN
LIGHTENING

 Tretinoin
 Hydroquinone:
 Hydroquinone is a strong inhibitor of melanin production, can
disrupt the synthesis and production of melanin.
 Banned in some countries (e.g. France- from 2001) because of
fears of a cancer risk. Hydroquinone has been shown to cause
leukemia in mice and other animals.
7
 Arbutin :
 Pure forms of arbutin are considered more potent (alpha-arbutin,
beta-arbutin, and deoxy-arbutin).
 Beta-Arbutin is also known by its more common name of
Bearberry extract.
 Derived from the leaves of bearberry, cranberry, mulberry or
blueberry shrubs, and is also present in most types of pears. It can
have melanin-inhibiting properties.
 considered safe alternatives to commonly used de-pigmenting
agents to make the skin fairer.
 There are patents controlling its use for skin lightening.
8
 Kojic acid :
 Kojic acid is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting
rice for use in the manufacturing of Sake, the Japanese rice wine.
 Kojic acid is an unstable ingredient in cosmetic formulations.
 Upon exposure to air or sunlight it can turn brown and lose its
efficacy.
 Many cosmetic companies use Kojic di-palmitate as an
alternative because it is more stable in formulations. some
controversial research has suggested that Kojic acid may have
carcinogenic properties in large doses.
 It can cause allergic contact dermatitis and skin irritation.
9
 Azelaic acid :
 Azelaic acid is a component of grains, such as wheat, rye, and
barley.
 It is applied topically in a cream formulation at a 10-20%
concentration.
 Azelaic acid is used to treat acne, but there also is research
showing it to be effective for skin discolorations.
 Vitamin C :
 Vitamin C are considered an effective antioxidant for the skin and
they help to lighten skin.
  Alpha hydroxy acids :
10  Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) - primarily in the form of lactic
acid and glycolic acid - are the most researched forms of AHAs
because they have a molecular size that allows effective
penetration into the top layers of skin.
 4% to 15% are not effective for inhibiting melanin production
and will not lighten skin discolorations in that manner.
 Their benefit is in helping removing unhealthy or abnormal layers
of skin cells (exfoliation) where hyper pigmented cells can
accumulate.
 Alpha hydroxy acid peels (using 50% concentrations or greater)
may remove skin discolorations. Only a qualified physician
should perform these types of facial peels.
 Niacinamide :
 Niacinamide is much safer alternative for skin whitening.
Niacinamide has no adverse side-effects. It promotes acne
reduction, and reduces fine wrinkles.
11  Major Constituents of Fairness Cream:
 usually a solid or semi-solid emulsion.
 Oil phase ingredients – base as stearic acid (in most of the
cases), liquid paraffin,cetostearyl alcohol
 Water based ingredients –glycerin,triethanolamine
 Emulsifiers – stearic acid
 Sesquersting agents – Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
 Fairness actives – Synthetic and Natural/herbals
 Preservatives – To preserve the formulations from microbial
attacks and contaminations- methyl and propyl paraben
 Colouring and Perfumery agents – To keep the formulation
aesthetically appealing and pleasant.
 Other special ingredients –UV protective agents,Anti-
oxidants,Vitamins etc.
 preparation
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 Generally fairness creams are oil in water (O/W) emulsion based

creams.
 Emulsifier and other oil soluble components (cetyl alcohol,
almond oil) dissolved in oil phase.
 The preservatives and other water soluble components (methyl
paraben, propyl paraben, propylene glycol, and all herbal
extracts) dissolved in the aqueous phase.
 Heat both phase at 75 ˚C.
 After heating, add aqueous phase into oil phase with continuous
stirring.
13
 What should be the desired qualities of Fairness Cream?
 Pleasant odour and colour
 Must be aesthetically appealing
 Easy to spread, and provide a pleasant feeling during application
 Easy penetration
 Should be non-oily / non-greasy after application
 Impart skin lightening
 Improve complexion
 Render moisturization
 Impart hydration
 Render nourishment
 Well tolerance
 Non-allergenic
 EVALUATION PARAMETERS
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 1. pH of cream
 2. viscosity
 3. dye test :
 The scarlet red dye is mixed with the cream.
 Place a drop on a microscopic slide, cover it and examine.
 O/W types of creams shows – disperse globules red over colourless
background.
 4. homogeneity
 5. appearance
 6. washability / removal of cream
 7. Acid value
 8. saponification value
 9. irritancy test
15 MARKETED PRODUCTS

 1. FAIR AND LOVELY AYURVEDIC CARE

 Kumkumadi oil – skin lightening remedies for dull and dark
complexion.
 Chandan, manjishtha, milk, kesa, wheat germ oil.
 It also provides protection from UV rays.
 2. VICCO TURMERIC SKIN CREAM
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 Ingredients :
 Combination of turmeric and sandalwood oil.
 It heals and prevents acne, pimples and blemishes.
 3. Himalaya hebals natural glow kesar face cream
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 Contains alfalfa, vitamin E, vitamin B3 and saffron

 Inhibits melanin synthesis
 Saffron helps lighren skin tone and brightens a dull complexion.
 4. Patanjali saundarya swarn kanti fairness cream
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 Contains an advanced blend of purified gold along with a natural
oils, herbs, vitamins and fruit extracts.
 5. roop mantra ayurvedic medicinal cream
 Contains 12 medicinal herbs and fruits includind aloe vera, apple,
carrot, almond, grapes, mulethi, neem and chandan.
 That makes skin look fair and gives natural glow to skin.
 6. VLCC white and bright glow creme
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 Paraben free formula
 Contains carrot seed dry powder extract, aloe vera, grape extract,
liquorice extract and mulberry extract, saffron, turmeric,
cucumber extract and olive oil.
 Brightens the dull and dark skin
 Reduces the appearance of marks, blemishes and pigmentation.
20  REFERENCES
 Fairness cream – consumers association of India
 (www.caiindia.com)
 Natural fairness creams to achieve fair and flawlwss skin from
beautyglimpse.com