Fundamentals of

textiles
Content

⬩ Tie & Dye ⬩ Flat – screen printing

⬩ Batik ⬩ Rotary printing
⬩ Block printing ⬩ Transfer printing
⬩ Screen printing ⬩ Stencil printing
⬩ Roller printing
⬩ Digital printing

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 1.
Tie & Dye printing
 Tie & Dye printing
⬩ It is same as that of batik printing but
here the dye is resisted by knots that are
tied in the cloth before it is immersed in
dye bath.
⬩ The outside of the knotted portion is
dyed, but inside is not penetrated if the
knot is firmly tied.
⬩ This gives a characteristic blurred or
mottled effect .

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Tie & Dye printing
⬩ Disadvantages –
⬩ Advantages – 1. Costly
1. Interesting design created on 2. Laborious
fabric.
3. Time taking
2. No m/c cost is there.
4. Skilled labourr required.

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 2.
Batik printing
 Batik printing
⬩ Originated on island of Java and is a
cottage based industry.
⬩ Batik is derived from word “AMBATIK”.
⬩ The resist-dyeing process, whereby designs
are made with wax on a fabric which is
subsequently immersed in a dye to absorb
the color on the unwaxed portions, is
known as batik printing.
⬩ Special feature is the fine lines of color
running irregularly across the fabric.

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Batik printing
⬩ Advantages –
1. Gives a good artistic effect.
2. Cheap printing.
3. Greater artistic design.
4. Fabric has a rich and graceful
appearance.
⬩ Disadvantages –
1. Laborious
2. Time taking
3. Cracking effect
4. dye should be applied at low
temperature than wax.
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 3.
Block printing
 Block printing
⬩ It is the oldest and the simplest way of
printing.
⬩ In this method a wooden block with a raised
pattern on the surface was dipped into the
printing colorant and then pressed face down
on to fabric.
⬩ The desired pattern was obtained by repeating
the process using different colors.
⬩ Generally the wooden block is carved out of
hand
⬩ Printing is done manually.

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Block printing
⬩ Advantages –
1. Simple method of printing.
2. No expensive equipment
3. No limitation in repeat of size
of style.
4. Prints produced have great
decorative value and stamp of
craftsmanship.
⬩ Disadvantages –
1. Involves much manual work.
2. Method is slow and therefore
low output.
3. Good skilled labors needed for
multi color design.
4. Fine and delicate designs hard
to produce
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 4.
Screen printing
 Screen printing

⬩ It involves the application of the printing paste

through a fine screen placed in contact with
the fabric to be printed.
⬩ A design is created in reverse on the screen by
blocking areas of the screen with a material
such as an opaque paint.
⬩ The screen is then placed over the fabric and
the printing paste is forced through the open
areas of the screen using a flexible synthetic
rubber or steel blade known as a squeegee.

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Screen printing
⬩ Advantages – ⬩ Disadvantages –
1. Simple and cast effective. 1. For high production large no.
2. Quick pattern making of tabled required.

3. 16 colors can be used in a 2. Delicate shading difficult to

design. obtain.

4. Sharp lines and features easily 3. Screen clogging may be there

produced. in fine areas.

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 5.
Roller printing
 Roller printing

⬩ It is the machine method of printing designs

on cloths by engraved rollers.
⬩ The design is engraved on the surface of a
metal roller, to which dye is applied, and the
excess is scraped off the roller’s surface,
leaving dye in the engraved sections. When it
rolls across the fabric, the dye on the roller
transfers to the fabric.

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Roller printing
⬩ Advantages –
1. Large quantities of fabric at
the rate of 914-3658m per hour
can be printed.
2. Faulty joints or joint marks are
absent.
3. Fine sharp outlines and good
prints can be obtained which is
difficult to get in block
printing.
⬩ Disadvantages –
1. Not economical for short run
of fabrics.
2. Difficult to produce blotch
designs.
3. Repeat of design limited to
size of the rollers.
4. Setup cost of roller printing
m/c Is high.
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 6.
Digital printing
 Digital printing

⬩ Digital printing is the process of printing

digital based images directly onto a variety of
media substrateds.
⬩ Digital files such as PDFs or desktop
publishing files can be sent directly to the
digital printing press to print on paper, photo
paper, canvas, fabric, synthetics, cardstock and
other substrates.

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Digital printing
⬩ Advantages –
1. Superior quality
2. Print flexibility
3. Reduced carbon footprint.
4. Prototyping option.
⬩ Disadvantages –
1. The range of printable fabrics
of more limited than with
screen printing.
2. Not so durable
3. Color white cannot usually be
reproduced within the print.
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 7.
Flat - screen printing
 Flat - Screen printing

⬩ It is the advanced version of screen printing by

using automatic m/c to do work.
⬩ It consists of printing table, conveyor belt,
number of screens, mechanism to print on the
fabric, etc.
⬩ First the fabric is brought on the printing table
through a feeding arrangement and it is
gummed to the conveyor belt on the table.

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Flat - Screen printing
⬩ Advantages –
1. Greater production than
manual screen printing.
2. Printing with different repeat
can be made easily
3. Good print is obtained
⬩ Disadvantages –
1. A big setup required for more
number of screens.
2. Prints with more colors may
not be possible.
3. Printing paste not evenly
controlled
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 8.
Rotary printing
 Rotary printing
⬩ Rotary screen printing involves a series of
revolving metal cylinder , each with revolving
screens, each with a stationary squeegee inside
which forces the print paste onto the fabric.
⬩ Twenty or more colours can be printed at the
same time.
⬩ The process is much quicker and more efficient
than flat screen printing .

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Rotary printing
⬩ Advantages –
1. Greater production than
manual screen printing.
2. Printing with different repeat
can be made easily
3. Good print is obtained
⬩ Disadvantages –
1. A big setup required for more
number of screens.
2. Prints with more colors may
not be possible.
3. Printing paste not evenly
controlled
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 9.
Transfer printing
 Transfer printing
⬩ It is a indirect method of printing in which dyes are
transferred from paper to a thermoplastic fabric
under controlled conditions of temperature, time and
pressure.
⬩ The image is first engraved on a copper plate.
⬩ Then pigment is applied on these plates.
⬩ The image is then transferred to a piece of paper,
with a layer of glue applied .
⬩ This is then placed on the fabric and heat and
pressure applied which fixes the print onto fabric.

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Transfer printing
⬩ Advantages –
1. Operation is simple and no
expensive m/c is required.
2. No after treatment of fabric
required.
3. Print on fabric is of excellent
quality.
⬩ Disadvantages –
1. Process applicable to synthetic
fabric like polyester.
2. Color range is limited.
3. Cost of printed paper high.
4. Not economical for small
orders.
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 10.
Stencil printing
 Stencil printing

⬩ It Is one of the oldest way of printing.

⬩ In it color is applied to the fabric by brushing
or spraying the interstices of a pattern cut out
from a flat sheet of metal or waterproof paper
or plastic sheet or laminated sheet.
⬩ A stencil is prepared by cutting gout a design
from a flat sheet of paper, metal, or plastic.

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Stencil printing
⬩ Advantages –
1. Simple and cost effective.
2. Stencils can be made rapidly
and can be used for small
orders.
3. Color combination is good in
it.
⬩ Disadvantages –
1. Good design is difficult to
obtain.
2. Process is laborious.
3. Not suitable for large scale
production.
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Want big impact?
Use big image.

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