What we covered still now?

Over view of Apparel Manufacturing Process

 Pre production Production Post Production
 Machine and equipment's
 Basic Garment Terminology
 Industrial Engineering
 IE in Garment Industry
 IE Tools
 Work study
Method study
Work measurement
 Garment Construction
 Garment Production Systems
And
Layout selection

Compiled By: Esubalew Gebrie

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
December ,2013 E.C
 What is Layouts ?
Physical arrangement for-
 The location of all machines

 Utilities

 Employee workstations

 Customer service areas

 Material storage areas

 Aisles

 Restrooms, lunchrooms

 Internal walls

 And offices
 A Layout is
The optimum placement or arrangement of space
consuming components with in a productive
system.
 Man
 Machine
 Material
 A Layout is

Arrangement for-

 flow patterns of materials and people around, into,

and within buildings

And
 infrastructure services such as the delivery of line

communications, energy, and water and the removal of

waste water all make up basic utilities.
 Layout

Layout identically involves the allocation of space and

the arrangement of equipment in such a manner that

overall operating costs are minimized.

- James L.
 Objectives of a Layout
 Provide enough productive capacity
 Reduce Material Handling by distance travelled
 Enough/adequate space for Machines, Man and
Material
 Allow high labor, Machine and Space Utilization
 Provide Volume and Product Flexibility
 No compromise with Safety and Health of the work
force
 Ease of Supervision
 Ease of Maintenance
 Reduced Energy consumption/Max. usage of sunlight
 Criteria for a good layout
Integration Integrates of men, materials and machines and support
services in order to get the optimum output of resources.
Cubic space Utilization of both horizontal and vertical spaces and height is
utilization very important to use the space as much as possible.
Minimum distance The total distance travel by the men and material should be
minimized as much as possible.
Floor Arrangement Arranging the floor to move the material/finished products in
forward direction towards the final stage.
Maximizing Entry into and disposal from any department should be in such
coordination manner that it is most convenient to the issuing or receiving
departments.
Maximizing The layout should be able to modify when necessary.
flexibility
Maximum All servicing and maintenance points should be readily
accessibility accessible.
Safety Due consideration to industrial safety methods is necessary.
Minimum handling Reduce the material handling to the minimum.
Good and Bad Layouts
A good layout results in comfort,
convenience, safety, efficiency, Compactness
and finally in profits to the organization.

A poor layout results in congestion, wastes,

frustration, inefficiency and finally a lower
profit or a loss to an organization.
 Selection of Layout
“A Plant should be located at a place where inhabitants

are interested in its success, the product can be sold

profitably and production cost is minimum.”

-Dr. Vishweshwarya
Phases of Plant Layout Development
 Plant layout begins with plant location and
continues through 3 further levels-

Layout of departments within site

Layout of items within the

departments

Layout of individual work

places
Factors for choice of Plant Location
1. Availability of Raw materials

2. Suitability of Land and Climate

3. Nearness to potential market

4. Supply of Labor

5. Transportation facilities

6. Integration with other companies

7. Safety Requirements

8. Govt. rules, Policies and Systems

 Types of layouts
 Process

 Product

 Cellular

 Fixed position

 Hybrid (mixed)
 Process Layout
Used when the operations system must handle a
wide variety of products in relatively small
volumes (i.e., flexibility is necessary)
Similar equipment and similar operations are
grouped together in the process or functional
layout.
Process Layout…characteristics
General-purpose equipment is used
Changeover is rapid
Material handling equipment is flexible
Operators are highly skilled
Technical supervision is required
Planning, scheduling and controlling functions are
challenging
Production time is relatively long
In-process inventory is relatively high
 Product Layout
 Product layouts are used to achieve a smooth and rapid flow
of large volumes of products or customers through a system.
 A job is divided into a series of standardized tasks,

permitting specialization of both labor and equipment.

 The large volumes handled by these systems usually make it

economical to invest huge amount of money in equipment and

job design.
 Operations are arranged in the sequence required to make the

product

high degree of labor and equipment utilization.

Product Layout…characteristics
Special-purpose equipment are used

Changeover is expensive and lengthy

Material flow is continuous

Material handling equipment is fixed

Little direct supervision is required

Planning, scheduling and controlling functions are

relatively straight-forward
Production time for a unit is relatively short

In-process inventory is relatively low

 Product Vs. Process Layout

Process
Characteristics Product Layout
Layout

Work Flow Fixed/almost Non Variable Variable

Product Mix Standard Product Variable

Volume High Moderate/Low

WIP Moderate/Low High

Space Utilization High Low

Capital Investment High Moderate

Level of Technology High Moderate/Low

 Cellular Layout
 Cellular manufacturing is a type of layout in which
machines are grouped into what is referred to as a cell.

 Groupings are determined by the operations needed to

perform work for a set of similar items, or part
families that require similar processing.

 These relate to the grouping of equipment and include

faster processing time, less material handling,
less work-in-process inventory, and reduced setup
time.

 Used when the operations system must handle a

moderate variety of products in moderate
volumes
 Fixed position Layout
In fixed-position layouts, the item being worked
on remains stationary, and workers, materials,
and equipment are moved as needed.
Fixed-position layouts are used in large
construction projects (buildings, power plants,
and dams), shipbuilding, and production of large
aircraft and space mission rockets.
Fixed-position layouts are widely used for farming,
firefighting, road building, home building, and
drilling for oil.
 Hybrid Layouts
 These manufacturing facilities use a combination of
layout types.

 An example of a hybrid layout is where departments

are arranged according to the types of processes
but the products flow through on a product
layout.
 Garment Production System
 In simple a ‘garment production system’ is a way how
the fabric is being converted into a garment in a
manufacturing system
 Production systems are named according to the
various factors, like-
 Number of machines is used to make a
garment
 Machines layout

 Total number of operators or tailors involved

to sew a complete garment and

 Number of pieces moving in a line during

making a garment.
 Types of production systems

 Make Through System  One Piece Flow System

 Progressive Bundle  Conventional Bundle

System System
 Section Production  Overhead Production
System System (UPS -Unit
 Modular Production Production system)

System  Piece Rate Production

System
 Make Through System
 Operator makes a complete garment from cut to pack.
 In this system, tailors are not depended to others.
 Cont.…
This type of system is effective when a very large
variety of garments have to be produced in
extremely small quantities.
 Cont.…

Advantage Limitation

For high fashion Low productivity

product Multi skill
Less throughput time
Not effective for bulk
Easy to supervise
production
Effective for extremely
High labour cost
small quantities
 Progressive Bundle System 

 Each operator does different operations of a garment.

 Machines laid in a line.
Cut parts are fed in a bundle form.
Cont.…
 Cont.…
 Operator opens the bundle and does her operation (job)
and moves to the next operator who is doing the next
operation.
A number of people involved in sewing a single garment.
Major benefits of this system are
 As operators work on single or limited operations,
their performances increases.
 Secondly, product consistency can be maintained
garment to garment.
Most of the export-oriented garment manufacturers
adopted progressive bundle system as the main production
system. 
 Progressive Bundling system
Advantage
 Higher Productivity with good
resource utilization
 Consistency in output & quality
 Semi-Skilled work force can
also be used
 Easy to develop Skill
Limitation
 Balancing the line is difficult
 Increase in WIP
 Variety of styles & less quantity
are not effective
 Proper maintenance of
equipment and machinery is
needed
 Section Production System
 This system is similar to the progressive bundle
system. But the difference is that, instead of one
line, work is divided into sections.
Sleeve section

Front section

Final Assembly Section

cuff section

Back section

Collar section
 Cont..
 Machines of similar operations are clubbed together
instead of spreading over in all lines.
 For example, when a man’s formal shirt is being made
in a section layout – collars, cuffs and sleeves are in the
preparatory sections and then send to the assembly
section.
 This system is popular to improve line balancing and
utilization of human resources. 
 Modular Production System
 In ‘Modular production system’ sewing operators work
as a team.
 Neither they sew complete garment nor do they sew
only single operation.
 Cont..
 Multi-skilled operators form a group and each of the
team members do multiple operations.
 In a modular system, operators help each other to finish
the garment quickly and the team is fully responsible for
quality and production.
 In modular, always team performance is measured
instead of individual operator performance.
 This system is very successful where quick response is
needed. 
Cont..
 One Piece Flow System
 Instead of making a bundle of multiple pieces, a bundle
is made with all components of a single piece.
 Sewing machines in One-piece-flow system can be laid
in a straight line or modular line.
 The main difference is that the operator will receive one
piece from the back and move one piece to his next
operator after completing his work.
 Benefits of One-piece-Flow system are less throughput
time, Less WIP in the line. 
 Overhead Production System
(UPS -Unit Production system)
 In the overhead production system, garment
components are clamped in a hanger and the hanger
moves on an overhead rail.
 In the hanger components of a single piece is clapped.
 So this is also one kind of single-piece-flow system
 Cont..

Advantage Limitation
Bundle handling completely Unit production system requires
eliminated. high investments.

The time involved in the pick- The payback period of the

up and disposal is reduced to investment takes long time.
minimum.

Output is automatically Proper planning is required to

recorded, eliminates the be effective
operator to register the work.
Cont..
 Conventional Bundle System
 Sewing machines are arranged in lines. The work flows from
the central (store) area to the first machine, from the first
machine back to the store, and then on to the next machine,
and so forth.
 A distributor stationed at the store is responsible for
receiving and dispatching the work. The work in progress is
in the form of bundles. These bundles may be put on to a
tray, a box, or a bag, or the garment parts may be wrapped
and tied.
Cont..
 Piece Rate Production System
 Piece rate system also one of the most popular
production system in small and unorganized factories.
 Though people called it a piece-rate system, actually it
is not a production system.
 Whatever Production system is used as mentioned
above, when operators are paid according to their
works (how many pieces produced), is named as a
piece-rate system.
 Prft=Slg pr.-cost
What shall I
I need only do???
output Best Quality

On time

Best Price Mi
ni
mi
ze

Customer High profit

Cost
 Exercise
Fill the following production system chart
(Low/Moderate/High)

Operator
Production
Throughput Skill WIP Quality Production Productivity
System/Concept
Required

Make through
System
Progressive
Bundle System
Unit Production
System
Modular
Production
System
Flexible
Manufacturing
System
What we Manufacture ?
 OPERATION BREKDOWN OF A LADIES SHIRT
Cuff Sleeve Front Back Collar

Fused cuff Fused collar

Run stitch cuff Sew dart Sew dart Stich collar stand
Sleeve placket
Turn & Iron cuff attach to margin Stitch front yoke Yoke Turn & Iron Collar

Attach & finish Turn & Iron yoke Edge stitch

Top stitch cuff sleeve placket Overlock yoke collar stand
Top stitch on to back
Loop Pocket front yoke Attach collar band
Attach yoke & collar stand
Attach placket with back
Stitch pocket stripe to margin Turn collar band
Run stitch mouth Topstitch on yoke & edge stitch
with gathring
Turn & Iron Turn & Close placket
Turn & finsh Edge stitch placket
Top stitch loop Pocket with
Edge stitch
Buttonhole Attach pocket Lable
to front
Attach loop
to Sleeve Care lable
Overlock shoulder attach to
main lable
Shoulder stitch

Topstich shoulder

Overlock sleeve with body

Sleeve attach to body

Overlock side seam

Side seam stitch

Cuff attach to sleeve

Symbol
Store Collar attach to body
with lable
Operation
Top stitch collar
Iron
Bottom hem
Inspection
Button hole making

Button attach

Inspection

Finished shirt
 Preparing operation bulletins/operation
breakdown
 The method of preparing operation lists in a sequence
is called as operation breakdown.
 To make operation bulletin the first step is doing
operation breakdown of the sample garment.
 The garment operation bulletin is also called as
operation breakdown.
 But operation bulletin includes more information than
the operation breakdown.
 Cont.…

 Prior to loading production to the line (for a new

style), IE prepare an operation bulletin (OB) for the
style.
 And also calculate manpower and machine
requirement based on SAM of all operations and
production target per hour (or per day).
 So OB helps to set a production line with the correct
number of machines and manpower.
 OB Making Process
Step #1: Prepare an OB format.
Step #2: Collect correct Sample

Step #3: Make operation breakdown for the sample

Step #4: Define machine for each operation

Step #5: Enter SMVs for each operation

Step #6: Calculate calculated production per hour

Step #7: Calculate number of machines

Step #8: Calculate estimated production per hour

Step #9: Calculate Machine Summary
Sample operation breakdown of basic short sleeve t-shirt
Benefit of breakdown in apparel industry
 Notice all operations of the garment at a time.

 Could expect the difficulties of doing a crucial

operation.
 Could make layout in an easy, simple and less time.

 To calculate SMV for target setting and equal time

distribution to the operator during layout.
 Easy to select appropriate operator for the specific
process.
 Cont.….
 Could know the quantity and kind of machine
required to produce the required garment.
 Could achieve the production target within a very
short period.
 Could be aware about quality to meet the buyer’s
standard.
 Could know about additional guide, folder and
attachment.
 WORK MEASUREMENT
 Work measurement is the application of technique
designed to establish the time for a qualified worker to
carry out a specified job at a defined level of
performance.
 Used to set the standard times for carrying out the
work and standard output level.
 • The job to be studied by making sure it is worthwhile spending time to improve it.
• The work which can be studied with economic advantage
Select

• All facts about the task/job/operation

Stages in Method Study
• Each and every detail about the job, even if it seems to have no effect on the method
Record

• Critical examining all the details (purpose, place, sequence, persons) such as why, by whom, what,
where, how etc.
Examine • Search for alternative manners by simplify, eliminate, combine and modify.

• A record/document of an improved method.

• Development of alternative solutions.
Develop

• Evaluation of all alternatives developed and selection of the solution which is best in all aspects.
Evaluate

• Development and defining the method, machine and equipment, materials, working conditions and
quality parameters
Define

• Implementing the solution proposed and defined.

Install

• Maintain the new method by continually checking at regular intervals that it is still being performed
correctly.
Maintain
 The use of work measurement
 To know the existence of ineffective time.

 To compare the efficiency of alternative methods.

 To balance the work of members of team in multiple activity.

 To determine number of machines an operator can run.

 To set the time standards for carrying out the work. The time
standards ones set may then be used.
 To provide information on which estimates of tenders, selling
prices and delivery promises can be based.
 Cont.….
 To provide information on which the planning and
scheduling of production.
 As a basis for realistic and fair incentive scheme.

 To compare between actual times and target times.

 To provide information for labour cost control and to

enable standard costs to be fixed and maintained.
 As a basis for labour budgeting and budgetary control
systems.
 Work measurement techniques
The following are the principle techniques by which work
measurement is carried out:

Time study
Predetermined motion time
systems(PMTS)
Activity sampling or work sampling
Analytical estimating
Synthesis from standard data
 Time study
 It is concerned with the direct observation of work
while it is being performed.
 Time Study is a work measurement technique for
recording the times and rates of working for the
elements of a specified job carried out under specified
conditions, and for analyzing the data so as to obtain
the time necessary for carrying out the job at a defined
level of performance.
 Uses/Benefits/ Advantages of time study
 Man power planning

 Determining work content and setting wages and

incentives
 Making a job schedules for production planning

 Comparing work efficiency of different operations

operating a machine
 For checking operator complaints about time rates

 To recommend further improvements in work methods

and work place layout.
 Time study Equipment

The equipment required for time study consists of:

Stop-watch
A Study board
Pencils
Time Study forms
Slide rule (for speeding up calculations), and
Measuring instruments for distance and
speed such as rulers, tapes micrometer,
technometer, (revolution counter) etc.
 Steps in making a time study

 Collect all the information about the job, operator and the
surrounding conditions
 Collecting all the information about the method. This is done
to record complete description of operations. Break each
operation into elements which are measurable with the help
of measuring devices accurately.
 Examine the detailed breakdown to ensure that the most
effective method and motions are being used.
 Measure and record the time taken by the operator to
perform each element of the operation.
 Cont.…
 Determine the number of cycle to be timed and
representative time can be found out by taking the
average of all readings.
 Rate the operations performance.

 Extending the observed times to basic time

 Determine the allowances to be provided over and

above the basic time for operation.
 Determine the standard time for the operation.
Time study sheet with calculation
Number of cycles to be timed

 A work cycle starts at the beginning of the first

element of the operation and continuous to the same
point in a repetition of the operation.
 Commonly in industries 95% confidence level is used
and the accuracy desired is +5%. It means that chances
are 95% that the average value of the element will not
be having error more than 5% of the true value.

Thursday, October 21, 2021 Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute 69

  If n= required number of observations ( sample size)
to predict the true time within ±5% accuracy and 95%
confidence level, then statistically,

Where, n’ = number of preliminary readings

n= sample size (no. of observations required)
Ʃx = the sum of preliminary set of individual
observations
Ʃx2 = sum of the squares of the individual observations
of the preliminary set of reading.

Thursday, October 21, 2021 Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute 70

 If a confidence level is 95% and accuracy required +10,
then

E.G At the preliminary level 5 observations are made

with the individual observations being 6,7,7,6,7 unit of
time( 1 unit of time = 0.01 minute), then
•  n’= 5
• Ʃx = 6+7+7+6+7=33
• Ʃx2 = 36+49+49+36+49= 219

Hence, a sample size of 3 is enough to attain the

confidence and accuracy level.

Thursday, October 21, 2021 Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute 71

 If however the accuracy level is increased to +2.5% then,
n becomes,

i.e. at least 36 observations are required.

The statistical method is cumbersome; therefore, a table
of random numbers may be used to determine the
number of cycles to be timed based on the total number
of minutes per cycle.

Thursday, October 21, 2021 Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute 72

Performance rating and computation of standard time

 The assessment of the worker’s rate of working to

observer’s concept of the rate corresponding to
standard rating” Therefore

 It follows from this definition that the observer carries

out rating in two stages
1. He assesses the standard rate of working for a given
element.
2. He assesses the worker’s rate of working in relation to
his own assessment of the standard rate of working
(standard performance).

Thursday, October 21, 2021 Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute 73

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