PHYSIOLOGY AND CHEMISTRY OF LIPS

BLEACHES AND TONICS

SUBJECT- HERBAL COSMETICS DEPT-
PHARMACOGNOSY

M.PHARMACY Ist YEAR

IInd SEMESTER

BY-
NOOREEN FATIMA
ROLL NO-170120888002
 PHYSIOLOGY AND CHEMISTRY OF LIPS
LIPS- Lips are a visible body part at the mouth of many animals, including
humans.
Lips are soft, movable, and serve as the opening for food intake and in the
articulation of sound and speech. Human lips are a tactile sensory organ and pliable
anatomical structures that form the mouth margin of most vertebrates, composed of
a surface epidermis (skin), connective tissue, and a muscle layer.
STRUCTURE- The upper and lower lips are referred to as the "Labium superius
oris" and "Labium inferius oris", respectively.
LAYERS OF LIPS-
1. Skin - thin and hairless, allowing the redness of the underlying capillary bed to
show through.
2. Superficial Fascia - loosely arranged and contains some fats.
3. Muscle - orbicularis oris
4. Sub mucous Tissue - contains blood vessels and labial mucous glands which
opens to the vestibule of the mouth.
5. Mucous membrane - coats the intraoral vestibule of the lips and then reflects
from the upper and lower lips to the attached gingiva. This is called the
vestibular or mucolabial fold.
Microanatomy- The skin of the lips is stratified squamous epithelium. The mucous
membrane is represented by a large area in the sensory cortex, and is therefore
highly sensitive. The Frenulum Labii Inferioris is the frenulum of the lower lip. The
Frenulum Labii Superioris is the frenulum of the upper lip.
Nerve supply-
1. Trigeminal nerve
2. The infraorbital nerve is a branch of the maxillary branch. It supplies not only
the upper lip but also much of the skin of the face between the upper lip and the
lower eyelid, except for the bridge of the nose.
3. The mental nerve is a branch of the mandibular branch ( via the inferior
alveolar nerve). It supplies the skin and mucous membrane of the lower lip and
labial gingiva (gum) anteriorly.
Muscles- The muscles acting on the lips are considered part of the muscles of facial
expression. The muscles acting on the lips: Buccinator, Orbicularis oris, Anchor
point.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LIP AND REGULAR SKIN STRUCTURE-

The lips are more attractive than the regular skin. Generally the top corneum layer
of regular skin has 15 to 16 layers mainly for protection purpose.
The top corneum layer of the lip contains about only 3 to 4 layers and very thin
compared to typical face skin. The lip skin contains very few melanin cells.
Because of this, the blood vessels more clearly appear through the skin of the lips
that gives a lovely pinkish color of the lips. The lip skin has no hair follicle and
no sweat glands. Therefore it does not have the sweat and body oil in protecting the
lip from outside environment.
 The lip skin is not hairy and does not have sweat glands. Therefore, it does not
have the usual protection layer of sweat and body oils which keep the skin
smooth, inhibit pathogens, and regulate warmth. For these reasons, the lips dry
out faster and become chapped more easily.
 Thinning of the vermilion of the upper lip and flattening of the philtrum are two
of the facial characteristics of fetal alcohol syndrome, a lifelong disability caused
by the mother‘s consumption of alcohol during pregnancy.

 How Lip Makeup Products May Affect The Human Lips??

Lip makeup products are primarily used due to their colouring. In addition, they can
have further advantages and some disadvantages as well. Certain lipsticks, mainly
long-wearing lipsticks, tend to dry the lips. It is attributed to the silicones found
among the ingredients. These ingredients seal the color to the lips. Lip plumping
lipsticks containing menthol and camphor may also cause dryness.
 Other factors that might contribute to the development of dry lips include nasal
obstruction, promoting mouth breathing, and dentures that might not fit properly
(commonly seen in the elderly).
 Common Lip Conditions- Dry and chapped lips Due the differences in the skin
structure, the lips dry out faster and become chapped more easily.
 Absence of moisture, dry lips if not protected properly leading to cracking and
bleeding.
 Lip Care Cosmetics- such as lip sticks, make the lips more attractive, but provide
limited protection.
 Preventions and Protections for healthy lips-Excess sun exposure, smoking and
alcohol can dehydrate the lips fast. Apply lip balm regularly, the best prevention
and protection for dry lips is a moisturizing lip balm, preferable one that provides
sun protection.
FUNCTIONS OF LIPS-
 Oral competence
 Deglutition
 Articulation
 Facial expression
 Opening and closing of mouth
 Make speech sounds
 Tactile
 BLEACHES
 Product which cause (a material such as cloth, paper, skin or hair) to become
white or much lighter by a chemical process or by using herbal ingredients.
 Bleaches are of two types-
1. Skin bleaches
2. Hair bleaches

3. SKIN BLEACHES-
 Skin bleach's refers to the practice of using herbal substances in an attempt to
lighten the skin or provide an even skin color by reducing
the melanin concentration in the skin.
 Skin whitening, also known as skin lightening and skin bleaching.
 Bleaching or skin lightening creams or ointments are widely used worldwide
either to attempt to remove localised dark patches (e.g. melasma )or as a fashion
trend aiming to reduce normal melanin in the skin.
 An importing colour to the skin, the most important role is played by pigments,
carotenes and melanins.
 Melanins are responsible for racial difference.
 By definition, cosmetics are meant to improve the appearance of the skin or
enhance the attractiveness of users, not to alter the basic structure of the skin.
 MECHANISM OF ACTION-
Skin whitening agents work by reducing the presence of melanin in the skin. To
accomplish this, there are several possible mechanisms of action:
1. Inhibition of the activity of tyrosinase:
 The catalytic action of tyrosinase is inhibited by the skin whitening agent.
 Inhibition of the expression or activation of tyrosinase: The antimelanogenic agent
causes less tyrosinase to be generated or prevents tyrosinase from being activated
to its functional form.
 Scavenging of the intermediate products of melanin synthesis.
2. Preventing the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes.
3. Directly destroying existing melanin.
4. Destroying melanocytes.
NATURAL SKIN LIGHTENING AGENTS OR BLEACHES-
 Formulation-1

INGREDIENTS WEIGHT FOR 100g

Milk Cream 3.0

Acetic Acid 2.0
Citric Acid 4.0
Glycerin 10.0
Sunflower Oil 10.0
Perfume 0.5
Water 70.5

Method of preparation:
 Mix the citric acid in water and acetic acid in glycerin.
 Mix the two solutions and add milk cream.
 Dissolve perfume in alcohol.
 Allow to stand for over night and filter.
 As the preparation is strong and may irritate, cold cream can be used.
 Formulation-2

INGREDIENTS WEIGHT FOR 100g

Strained Lemon Juice 80
Alcohol 15
Glycerin 4.5
Perfume 0.5
Method of preparation:
 Dissolve perfume in alcohol and add to the strained lemon juice.
 Then add glycerin to it.
 Note that ½ % of alcohol ( acetic acid ) is added
 Formulation-3

INGREDIENTS. QUANTITY
Extract of licorice 1.0g
Extract of Turmeric 1.0g
Stearic acid 5g
Cetyl alcohol 3g
Almond oil 2ml
Glycerin 2ml
Methyl paraben 0.02g
Propyl paraben 0.02g
Triethanolamine q.s
Method of preparation-
 Mix both extracts with cetyl alcohol then add stearic acid.
 Separately mix parabens with glycerin.
 Mix both the mixture and add almond oil with triethnolamine.
 EVALUATION
1. Determination of pH
 The pH formulated skin lightening cream was determined using pH meter.
 Weigh accurately 5± 0.01gm of the cream in 100ml beaker.
 To this add 45 ml of freshly boiled and cooled water at 270C.
 It was stirred well to make a through suspension. Then electrode was immersed in
suspension and reading were recorded on pH meter.
2. Determination of Thermal stability
Phase separation study of skin lightening cream was tested by thermal stability in
humidity chamber controlled at 60 to 70% RH and 37± 1ºc according to the
procedure given in the Indian Standards.
3. Determination of Spreadability
 Excess of sample was applied in between two glass slides and was compressed to
uniform thickness by placing 100gm Weight for 5 minutes.
 Weight was added to the pan. The time required to separate the two slides, i.e. the
time in which the upper glass slide moved over the lower plate was taken as
measure of spreadability. Lesser the time taken for separation of two Slides,
Better The Spreadability of Cream.
Formula S = M ×L
Where, M=weight tide to upper slide, L=length moved on the glass slide, T=time
taken
4. Determination of water content
 10g of the material was weighed and transferred it into the flask. 200ml of
toluene and few pieces of pumice stone was added and connected the apparatus
with condenser. The flask was heated until toluene was begin to boil and
refluxed.
Water % by mass = V X D x 100/ M
Where, V = volume of water in ml at room temperature collecting in receiving tube,
D = density of water at room temperature, M = Mass in gm of the material taken
for the test
5. Irritancy test
 Mark an area (1sq.cm) on the left hand dorsal surface. The cream was applied to
the specified area and time was noted. Irritancy, erythema, edema, was checked
for regular intervals up to 24 hrs and reported.
MARKETED FORMULATIONS
2. HAIR BLEACHES-
 Hair Bleach strips the pigment from your hair shaft through the process of
oxidation. It is impossible to make your hair a lighter shade without the help of a
bleaching (or oxidising) agent.
 In fact, bleaching even has some advantages: the process plumps your individual
hair shafts, often making your hair appear thicker and fuller.
 Hydrogen peroxide and ammonia are the most commonly used bleaching agents.
They are often mixed together, because when used separately, they are unstable
and very slow in lightening the hair.
Damage from bleaching includes:
 Dry Hair, Brittle Hair, Inelastic hair
 Hair that is prone to breakage and is prone to split end.
 Bleached hair is also more porous, and therefore more vulnerable to other
chemical and non-chemical hazards. These include everything from heat-styling
with blow-dryers and tongs.
 NATURAL HAIR BLEACHING AGENTS
 Formulation-1
 Bleach Hair With Lemon Juice
Ingredients
 1 cup Fresh Lemon Juice
 1/4 cup Warm Water (for normal hair) OR 1/4 cup Conditioner (for dry hair)
 1 Spray Bottle.
Method of preparation and application-
 For normal hair, pour the ingredients into a spray bottle and shake. For dry hair,
mix the ingredients in a bowl until well combined.
 Spray/Apply the lemon juice mixture onto your hair until it is completely
saturated.
 Sit out in the Sun for 1-2 hours with the lemon juice in your hair.
 Wash and condition
 Formulation-2
 Bleach Hair With Honey And Vinegar
 Ingredients
 1 cup Apple Cider Vinegar
 1/2 cup Honey
 1 tbsp Coconut Oil
 Towel
Method of preparation and application-
 Combine the ingredients in a bowl until you get a smooth mixture.
 Apply this mixture onto your hair until it is completely saturated.
 Wrap your hair in a towel and leave the mixture in overnight.
 In the morning, wash your hair with shampoo.
 Finish with conditioner

 Evaluation
 The following tests are carried out to evaluate hair bleaches .
 1. The sensitization test
 2. The toxic effect test
1. The Sensitization Test: The test is carried out on animal skin. The bleaches
applied on the hair and is kept under observation for 24 hrs. If no reaction
occurs, then the bleach is said to be non-sensitizing or non-irritant.
Histopathological study is carried out as per requirements.
2. The Toxic Effect Test: Toxic effects are studied in animals to know about the
long term effects of the preparations.

 MARKETED FORMULATIONS

HOT STYLE SALON HAIR BLEACH

100G
 TONICS
 Skin tonic or hair tonic is a liquid that you apply on skin or hair in order to
improve the condition and rejuvenate the skin or hairs.
1. SKIN TONICS
2. HAIR TONICS

3. SKIN TONICS-
 A skin tonic is a highly effective dermatological preparation, especially
developed to refine and rejuvenate the skin after cleansing.
 In cosmetics, skin toner or simply toner refers to a lotion or wash designed to
cleanse the skin and shrink the appearance of pores, usually used on the face.
Tonics can be applied to the skin in different ways:
 On a cotton round. (This is the most frequently used method.)
 Spraying onto the face.
 By applying a tonic gauze facial mask—a piece of gauze is covered with toner
and left on the face for a few minutes.
 TYPES OF TONICS
1. Skin bracers or fresheners-
 These are the mildest form of toners; they contain water and a humectant such
as glycerin, and little if any alcohol (0–10%). Humectants help to keep the
moisture in the upper layers of the epidermis by preventing it from evaporating. A
popular example of this is rosewater.
 These toners are the gentlest to the skin, and are most suitable for use on dry,
dehydrated, sensitive and normal skins. It may give a burning sensation
to sensitive skin.
2. Skin tonics-
 These are slightly stronger and contain a small quantity of alcohol (up to 20%),
water and a humectant ingredient. Orange flower water is an example of a skin
tonic. Skin tonics are suitable for use on normal, combination, and oily skin.
3. Acid Toners-
 These are a strong form of toner that typically contains alpha hydroxy acid and
or beta hydroxy acid. Acid toners are formulated with the intent of chemically
exfoliating the skin instead of physically exfoliating it which has been proven to
create micro-tears in the skin. Glycolic, Lactic, and Mandelic acids are the most
commonly used alpha hydroxy acids, best suited to exfoliate the surface of the
skin. Salicylic acid is the most commonly used beta hydroxy acid best for
exfoliating into the deeper layers of the skin.
4. Astringents-
 These are the strongest form of toner and contain a high proportion of alcohol
(20–60%), antiseptic ingredients, water, and a humectant ingredient. These can be
irritating and damaging to the skin as they can remove excess protective lipids as
well as denature proteins in the skin.
NATURAL SKIN TONICS

Witch Hazel Aloe Vera Essential oils

Rose water Apple cider vinegar Green tea

 Formulation – I

INGREDIENTS WEIGHT FOR 100G

Sunflower 44.0
Glycerine 15.0
Hydrogen Peroxide 8.0
Phenol 0.5
Champhor 0.5
Water 30.0
Perfume 2.0

Method of preparation:
 Mix the perfume with alcohol and add rest of ingredients.
 Mix well and filter.
 Formulation – 2

INGREDIENTS QUANTITY
Sandle Wood Oil 300g
Distilled Water 100g
Glycerin 7.5g
Perfume 18g
Boric Acid 3.1g
Sodium Aluminium Sulfate 4g

Method of preparation:
 Dissolve boric acid and alum in warm water, add alcohol to it.
 Then add glycerin and rest of ingredients .
 Mix well , fliter and bottle.
 Evaluation
1. pH: The pH meter was calibrated and measured the pH by placing in the beaker
containing 20mg of the cream.
2. Spreadability Test
 500mg of the cream was sandwiched between 2 slides.
 A weight of 100gm was placed on upper slide. The weight was removed and
extra formulation was scrapped off.
 The lower slide was fixed on board of apparatus and upper slide was fixed with
non-flexible string on which 20g load was applied.
 Time taken by upper slide to slip off was noted down.
3. Patch Test
 About 1-3gm of material to be tested was placed on a piece of fabric or funnel
and applied to the sensitive part of the skin e.g. skin behind ears.
 The cosmetic to be tested was applied to an area of 1sq.m.of the skin. Control
patches (of similar cosmetic of known brand) were also applied.
 The site of patch is inspected after 24 hrs. As there was no reaction the test was
repeated three times.
 As no reaction was observed on third application, the person may be taken as not
hypersensitive.
4. Irritancy Test
 The cream was applied on left hand dorsal side surface of 1sq.cm and observed
in equal intervals upto 24hrs for irritancy, redness.
 MARKETED FORMULATIONS
2. HAIR TONIC-
 The term “hair tonic” has been used for some hair preparations because the
term is used in therapeutics. Hair tonic is one kind of hair repairing tonic and
re-texturing the hair.
 There are two distinct types of products :-
a. Products those deals with specific problems of the hair. E.g., greasy hair,
dandruff.
b. Those products which are intended for improving, restoring, & maintaining
the condition of the hair.
DANDRUFF - It is an excessive scaling of scalp. It generally occurs in winter
and ease off in summer. Dandruff has been observed that proliferation of micro-
organism is associate with dandruff. The micro-organism are mostly found is
Pityrosporum Ovale, a sporulating yeast.
The scalp is lush environment for the growth of micro- organism & high scaling
condition. The compounds are added to anti-dandruff tonic are mostly are:-
1. anti- microbial.
2. keratolytic or exfoliative.
Formulation – I Anti- Dandruff tonic
HAIR LOSS
 Hair loss may be more or less profuse, more or less localized, it may be
congenital or acquired. It may be an acute state or be a transient event resulting
from an effective disturbance, a trauma, an infectious disease, the effect of
some medicines.
 Five methods by which hair growth might be increased.
1. Increase of the anagen growth of hair.
2. production of new follicles or more multiple follicles.
3. lengthening of the anagen stage or shortening of talogen stage.
4. prevention or delay of talogen.
5. initiation of anagen in follicles in the talogen state.
 Hair loss has long been held to linked to poor irrigation of the scalp & a
number of preparations recommended as ‘anti-loss’.
Formulation – I Cinchona Tonic
Formulation – II Vitamin tonic
 EVALUATION OF HERBAL HAIR TONIC
1. pH of formulation:1ml of the oil was weighed in a test tube. 9 ml of water
was added. pH of the mixture was determined with the help of a pH meter.
2. Viscosity- Viscosity was measured with Brookfield digital viscometer at
100 rpm.
3. Homogeneity- The formulations were tested for the homogeneity by visual
appearance and by touch.
4. Appearance- The appearance of the formulation was judged by its colour,
odour and consistency.
5. Removal- The ease of removal of the formulation applied was examined
by washing the applied part with tap
 NATURAL HAIR TONICS

Onion juice Hibiscus Rosemary oil Cinchona plant

Nigella Sativa oil Amla Almond oil Castor oil

 MARKETED FORMULATIONS
 REFERENCES
1. Hand textbook of herbal cosmetics – Panda .H.
2. Formulation, manufacturing and quality control , - P.P Sharma.
3. Textbook of Cosmetic Formulations - Gaurav Kumar Sharma, Jayesh Gadiya
Meenakshi Dhanawat
4. World Journal of Pharmaceutical Research SJIF Impact Factor 7.523 Volume
6, Issue 17, 1101-1110. Research Article ISSN 2277– 7105.
5. WORLD JOURNAL OF PHARMACY AND PHARMACEUTICAL
SCIENCES SJIF Impact Factor 6.647 Volume 6, Issue 6, 992-1003 Research
Article ISSN 2278 – 4357.
6. Harrys cosmeticology by J.B.Wilkinson & R.J.Moore. Pg. no. –498-513
7. https://www.philipkingsley.com/hair-guide/chemical-hair-processing-and-
colouring/bleaching-your-hair
8. https://www.stylecraze.com/articles/simple-ways-to-bleach-hair-naturally/
9. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/products/hair-bleaches
10. https://benthamopen.com/FULLTEXT/TODJ-12-90
11. http://rjtcsonline.com/HTMLPaper.aspx?
Journal=Research+Journal+of+Topical+and+Cosmetic+Sciences%3bPID
%3d2015-6-2-4.
12. https://herbeday.com/blog/best-natural-hair-tonic-products-hair-food/
13. Skin lightening products revisited- by L Petit and Peirard •
14. Survey and Mechanism of Skin Depigmenting and Lightening Agents-Shoukat
Parvez1, Moonkyu Kang1, Hwan-Suck Chung1, Chongwoon Cho1, Moo-
Chang Hong2, Min-Kyu Shin2 and Hyunsu Bae1
15. Sagarins cosmetic science and technology, pg 233
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