Introduction

• Four different ways of fabric production

– Inter weaving
– Inter looping
– Inter twining
– Inter Bonding
 Knitting
• Knitting is a process of
manufacturing a fabric by inter
looping of yarns.
• Knitting is the second most
important method of fabric
formation.
• It can be defined as a needle
technique of fabric formation, in
which, with the help of knitting
needles , loops are formed to
make a fabric or garment.
• Fabric can be formed by hand or
machine knitting , but the basic
principle remains exactly the
same i.e. pulling a new loop
through the old loop.
Types of Knits
 Distinguish between woven and knits
Woven Knits
Two types of threads are used One type of thread is used
Long process Short process
Yarn movement is restricted Yarn movement is not restricted
Strong fabric Weaker fabric
Less comfortable More comfortable
Wrinkles easily Highly crease resistant
Ironing is necessary Requires no ironing
Garment weaving not possible Garment knitting is possible
Thinner fabric Thicker fabric
Less extensible More extensible
Cutting waste cannot be reduced Cutting waste can be minimized
Stable fabric Less stable fabric
 KNITTED FABRIC STRUCTUES
• There are two main industrial categories of
machine knitting : warp knitting and weft
knitting. Fabrics in both these categories
consist essentially of a series of interlinked
loops of yarn.

Warp Knit Weft Knit

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 WARP KNITTING
• Warp knitting is the process of making a fabric
in which the loops form in a vertical or warpwise
direction; the yarn is prepared as warp on
beams with one or more yarns for each needle.
The fabric has a flatter, closer, less elastic knit
than weft knit and is very often run resistant.

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 WEFT KNITTING
• Weft knitting is the most common type of
knitting, it is the process of making a fabric by
forming a series of connected loops in a
horizontal or filling-wise direction; produced on
both flat and circular knitting machines.

• Most of the sweaters, cardigans, and other

knitted outerwear are weft knitted “fashioned”
garments, produced with a minimum of linking
from shaped, generally flat garment pieces.

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 INTRODUCTION TO (WEFT)
KNITTING
• Knitting is a method of constructing fabric by
intermeshing/inter-looping series of loops of one
(sometimes more than one) yarn.

• Knitted fabric is unique in that it possesses a

high order of elasticity and recovery. It can be
stretched to a considerable length and yet will
gradually return to its original shape or
conformation. It is this feature of the fabric, plus
its air permeability arising from its looped
structure, that imparts to it such desirable and
appealing properties from the consumer's point
of view as:
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 INTRODUCTION TO (WEFT)
KNITTING
(a) A diversity of constructions, and the variety of
fibres and finishes available.
(b) Generally soft and light weight.
(c) Good drapability. Knitted fabrics conform to
the figure without constricting the wearer.
(d) A high order of wrinkle resistance. Creases in
knitted fabric brush right out.
(e) Comfort. The knitted structure is porous. It
allows the skin to breathe freely. Its elasticity
permits greater freedom of body movements
(f) Ease of care. Knitted apparel launders without
difficulty.
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 Common Knitting terms
• Wales :- A wale is a vertical
column of loops produced by the
same needle knitting at successive
knitting cycles. The number of
Wales determine the width of the
fabric and they are measured in
units of Wales per centimeter.

• Courses :- Courses are rows of

loops across the width of the fabric
produced by adjacent needles
during the same knitting cycle and
are measured in units of courses
per centimeter. The courses
determine the length of the fabrics
 WALE AND COURSE
• The series of loops
that intermesh in a
vertical direction are
known as 'Wale'.
• The loops that are
inter-connected
widthwise are known
as 'Course'. (one
traverse is equal to
two courses.)
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• LOOP AND STITCH
The loop is the fundamental element of all
knitted fabrics. It is a basic unit consisting of a
loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously
formed basic units (stitches). Components of a
knitting loop are the needle loop and the sinker
loop.

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 LOOP
• A needle loop is one
which has been
drawn through a
previous loop.

• A sinker loop is one

which connects
adjacent needle
loops.

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 STITCH
• The stitch is the smallest dimensionally stable
unit of all knitted fabrics. It consists of a yarn
loop, which is held together by being
intermeshed with another stitch or other loops.
There are three basic knitted stitches : KNIT,
TUCK and MISS (float or non-knit) which form
the starting point for the entire range of weft
knitted structure.

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 TUCK
• Tuck stitch is made
when a needle rises
to take a new loop
without casting off the
old. It consists of a
held loop and a tuck
loop, both of which
are intermeshed in
the same course.

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 MISS (NON-KNIT)

• A length of yarn not

received by a needle
and connecting two
loops of the same
course that are not in
adjacent wales.

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 Common Knitting terms
• Stitch density :- Stitch density is a term frequently used in
knitting and represents the total number of needles loop in a
given area. Stitch density is the product of Courses and Wales
per unit length and is measured in units of loops per square
centimeter.
• Stitch Length :- the stitch length is one of the most important
factor controlling the properties of knitted fabrics. The stitch
length , measured in millimeter is the length of the yarn in the
knitted loop. Generally longer the stitch length, the more open
and lighter the fabric.
• Count :- the number of wales measured along the width of the
fabric is called wale count or wale density. Wale count is
expresses as number of wales per inch (WPI). The courses
measured along the length of the fabric is called course count or
course density. Course count is usually expressed as the
number of courses per inch (CPI). Count of the fabric is very
important for the fabric analysis.
For Example: if a fabric is having 12 wales and 15 courses per
inch, its fabric count be expressed as ( 12x15 )
Primary/Basic Knitting Elements

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20
 The sinker

The sinker is the second primary knitting element (the

needle being the first). It is a thin metal plate with an
individual or a collective action operating
approximately at right angles from the hook side of the
needle bed, between adjacent needles.
Functions:
It may perform one or more of the following functions,
dependent upon the machine’s knitting action and
consequent sinker shape and movement:
 Loop formation
 Holding-down
 Knocking-over
Different important parts of the sinker
Cam

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• The knitting action
1. Rest position 2. Tuck Position 3. Clearing position 4. Yarn Feeding Position

5. Latch Closing position 6. Knock over position ( loop forming)

• The knitting action can be explained as follows:
1. Rest position- The needle is in the rest position with the old loop in the hook of the
needle.

2. Tuck Position – the needle is raised and old loop is on the latch of the needle.

3. Clearing position – The needle is raised higher to clear the loop from the latch. The
needle reached at the top of the cam and old loop is on the stem of the needle.

4. Yarn Feeding Position – The needle is lowered with old loop new yarn is being fed
to the open hook of the needle.

5. Latch Closing position – The needle is lowered further and the old loop closes the
latch trapping the new yarn inside the hook.

6. Knock over position ( loop forming) – the needle is lowered still further and old loop
slides over the trapped new yarn inside the hook, forming a new loop by completing
the knitting cycle. Knitting cycle is completed with the new loop in the hook of the
needle.