WATERPROOFING:

CAPILLARY ACTION OF WATER:

Capillary action is upward movement of water and vapor through voids in soil from wet lower areas to drier high areas.
Capillary action is dependent upon the soil type present. Clay soils promote the most capillary action, allowing more than 10
ft of vertical capillary action. Loose coarse gravel prevents capillary action, with this type of soil promoting virtually no
upward movement.

Capillary action begins by liquid water saturating lower areas adjacent to the water source. This transgresses to a mixture of
liquid and vapor above the saturation layer.

The damp proof course acts as a barrier and prevents the rise of water above the floor level.For the DPC to be effective it
should be 40mm thick and made up of cement concrete mix 1:2:4. A good quality waterproofing compound should be
added to the concrete as per the manufacturer’s instructions and a uniform layer of 85/25 bitumen should be applied on the
top surface aft ..
 SELF COMPACTING CONCRETE:

• Self-Compacting Concrete (SCC) is defined as concrete that has an ability to flow under its own weight, to fill the
required space or formwork completely and to produce a dense and adequately homogenous material without a need
for vibrating compaction.

WATERSTOPS:
• Waterstops or waterbars are premanufactured joint filler used to prevent the transmission of water through the
construction joint. Waterstops are mainly used for the waterproofing of below-grade concrete structures like tunnels,
water treatment facilities, parking structures, water reservoirs, sewage treatment facilities, and marine structures.

• Waterstops are highly demanded in locations where the construction joints are common:
1. The transition area between the horizontal and vertical concrete components.
2. Long length wall areas, where two or more formwork is required for casting
3. Situations when concrete placement is paused or stopped for some reason
4. Where a change in design form is required for the design elements.

• The construction joint is also referred to as cold joints which occur when the before placed concrete cures earlier than
the adjacent one. These are the most likely areas which can result in water ingress. In most of the cases, the
construction joint is not actually formed. But, a construction joint, like the control joint is introduced in order to facilitate
the shrinkage caused due to large displacements.

Material for Waterstop

Waterstop are premanufactured joint fillers that come in numerous size, shapes, and types. The most widely used
waterstops from 1950s are made from PVC. PVC waterstops are flexible and strong. New materials like asphalt, myriad
metal, hydrophilic materials with different compositions are now commonly used for the manufacture of waterstops that
suits the varied application in construction.
MATERIALS FOR WATERSTOPS:
Waterstops are premanufactured joint fillers that come in numerous size, shapes, and types. The most widely used
waterstops from 1950s are made from PVC. PVC waterstops are flexible and strong. New materials like asphalt, myriad
metal, hydrophilic materials with different compositions are now commonly used for the manufacture of waterstops that
suits the varied application in construction.

1. PVC Waterstops
A PVC waterstops is installed on either side of the construction joints, hence creates a tough physical barrier. Based on the
type of construction joint, the width, size and thickness of the waterstop varies. A PVC waterstop due to its material
property can be installed in any climatic conditions. These tend to be highly durable.
The installation of PVC watertsop is carried out during the concrete process, which if not performed carefully results in the
damage of the PVC joint.

2. Bentonite Waterstop
Bentonite waterstop is a type coming under the hydrophilic waterstop category. Bentonite, as we know is a swellable clay
compound. It has the property to expand sixteen times when it comes in contact with the water.
This filling property is used to seal the concrete joints. This waterstop actually compression seal the system thus filling the
cracks and the voids in the concrete.
One of the challenges in installing this system is that the bentonite must be maintained dry until it is poured into the joint
which has to be sealed. Premature exposure of the bentonite to moisture results in the damage of the joints and weakening
of the concrete around the joint. In the long run, the number of expansion and contraction of the bentonite waterstops
reduces. Hence it is necessary to replace it. Hence, bentonite is best suited for areas when moisture and extreme weather
conditions are not so frequent.

3. Urethane Waterstops
Urethane waterstops also comes under the hydrophilic category. This material also swells and forms a compression seal in
the construction joints in the concrete structure. An increase of 350% is expected by this type.
Urethane waterstops can be either applied in the form of strips or by means of a caulking gun, which makes the installation
process easy. This material requires 24 hours for curing, only after which concrete pouring is expected to perform. So,
throughout the curing process of the concrete, the urethane material must remain dry. Long exposure of waterstops to
water results in its wear out.
4. Metallic Waterstops
Metallic waterstops are mostly made from bronze, steel, lead or copper. These waterstops are embedded similar to PVC
waterstops. These are very strong and can be exposed to extreme temperature conditions and chemical atmosphere. This is
hence highly applied in the construction of dams and heavy construction projects.
CAUSES OF WATER LEAKAGES IN TERRACE:

Structural Issues
• Cracks on the top surface of slab-Injection grouting as required, large cracks repair with URP modified mortar
• Cracks on the bottom of slab due to excess deflection of slab-Structural consultant's opinion must be taken; if leaking
can be addressed with a hydrophobic PU foam injection grout
• Cracks at column supports-Structural consultant's opinion must be taken
• Excess porosity in the slab, bad quality concrete-Resort to Injection grouting
• Expansion joint in the slab-Polysulphide sealant application with proper detailing
• Inadequate design of the slab-Structural engineers opinion
• Spalling of concrete due to corrosion in the slab-Detailed repair with catholic protection & repair materials
• Cracks due to differential settlement of a building-structural and soil experts opinion must be taken
• As the case may be, these must be addressed before waterproofing job is taken up.

Non Structural Issues:

• Slope not proper-Slope must be provided for water drainage
• Inadequate rain water pipes-Provide drain water pipes as required
• Parapet wall not in good condition-Repair parapet masonry/plaster using mortar added with w/p compounds/polymer
bonding agents
• Internal cracks, honeycombs (finished with ordinary mortar), porosity, etc. which cannot be seen by eye-pack using
inject grout at the place of leakage from top to bottom
• Mechanical installations like cooling towers, AC units, etc., on the terrace-Foundations must be examined and repaired if
required
• Aggressive climatic conditions-choose and apply protective coating/WP system
• Thermal extremes-Provide insulation treatment over WP layer.
TERRACE WATERPROOFING:

In India, Terrace Waterproofing has always been done with very traditional materials. Typically systems like brickbat Coba,
Lime terracing or the "Mud Fuska" technique are still very much in vogue. These systems have been offering waterproofing
with some insulation against heat.

Some of the problems that these systems have are:

• Heavy loading on the slab
• Cracks on the surface, especially in case of brick bat coba
• Expertise levels of application required for lime terracing/mud fuska not as good as in the olden days
• Offer more insulation rather than a leak proof or a water-tight system
• As they age breaking them and re-doing the same system is risky for the slab; cracks caused in the slab increase the
problem of leakage.

BRICKBAT WATERPROOFING:

1. Surface Preparation
In the case of existing treatment, the coating on the slab top shall be removed, and surface cleaned by hard wire brush and
washed with water. In the case of a new slab to be cast, the surface of the concrete must be roughened by scraping. In case
the slab has already been cast, and the surface is fairly finished, the same shall be cleaned neatly of all mortar droppings,
loose materials, etc.
The main aim of the surface preparation is to make the surface of the slab free from any oil, grease, dust, etc. Proper
measures shall be adopted for all structural cracks as per standard practice.
2. Application of Slurry and Base Coat
The slurry is prepared with cement and water to a required consistency. It shall be applied over the dampened surface with
brushes very carefully, including the joints between the floor slab and the parapet wall, holes on the surfaces and joints of
pipes in masonry or concrete.
The prescribed quantity of slurry application is 2.75 Kg of cement per Sqm. The pot life of the slurry shall be considered as
1/2 hour. The use of the slurry should continue up to a height of 300 mm over the parapet wall.
The laying of a 25mm thick base coat is carried out soon after the application of slurry when the application is still green.
The cement plaster of 25 mm thick with a mix ratio of 1:4 is evenly applied over the concrete surface.
3. Placing of BrickBat
While the base coat is still green, brickbats of the size (65mm to 120mm) are placed with a gap of 15 and 20mm. The
brickbats shall be wholly burnt and are well soaked overnight before laying.
Once after laying of brickbats, curing is carried out for a minimum of 24 hrs after which, the gaps between the brickbats are
filled with the same mix mortar used for base coat.
Fig 2: Laying of Brickbat Waterproofing
4. Laying of Protective Coat
A waterproofing compound confirming to IS 2645 is blended with the cement water mixture as per the manufacture
specification. However, not more than 3 % of the waterproofing compound shall be used per 50 Kg of grey cement.
A cement mortar of a 1:4 ratio is prepared with the waterproofing compound and applied over the surface, including the
haunches/ gola and 300mm on the parapet wall.
The surface is neatly finished with the help of wooden / steel hand float. The finished surface shall be allowed to dry for a
while till a string mark can easily be made on the surface when 300mm x 300mm square marks shall be made over the
entire surface.
5. Curing
The entire surface thus treated shall be flooded with water by making bunds with low cement mortar. The curing shall be
carried our for a minimum period of 2 weeks.
BITUMINOUS WATERPROOFING:

Layer of bituminous water proof membrane is laid over the structural roof which acts as a shield against the seepage of
water onto the roof. Roof tiles & membrane is applied over the filler material laid to slope to pass the flow of water into
drains. A proper slope is necessary to allow the water to flow steadily to drains.

These membranes have 2 to 4 mm thick water proof materials. Membrane should be flexible with elongation 150 % to cover
any small cracks, strong, chemical & UV resistant, flexible enough to take any shape over which it is laid.
 FACTORS CAUSING WATER INTRUSION AND LEAKAGE IN BASEMENT:

• Improper Soil and Drainage Systems: If rain and groundwater cannot drain away properly it can make its way into your
basement. Improper soil and poor drainage systems are one of the most common causes of basement wetness. If water
isn’t directed away from the home, it will accumulate around the foundation, where it will try to find a way inside.

• Poorly Installed and Maintained Gutters: Gutters are intended to direct rainwater away from your foundation. If they
are improperly installed or too clogged to function, water will drain around your foundation, rather than away from it.

• Improper Slope: The ground around your foundation should slope away from your home, not towards it. If the slope is
wrong, water will accumulate around your foundation, rather than running away from it.

• Hydrostatic Pressure: Hydrostatic pressure occurs when water accumulates around your foundation. As gravity pushes
down on that water, it will try to escape, in an effort to relieve that pressure. The water will force its way through any
cracks in your basement walls and floors. In fact the pressure can get so strong, that it will cause cracks.

• Cracks in Your Basement: Cracks in your basement walls, floors, and around windows or doors provide the perfect
avenue through which water can flow. Water will always follow the path of least resistance and these cracks make it
easy for water to come inside.

• Condensation: Basements are notoriously damp places. When condensation occurs, it can bring mildew, mold, and
potential damage along with it.
BASEMENT WATERPROOFING METHODS:

• Interior Sealants & Waterproofing: The most common entry point for water is through cracks in the concrete
foundation. The good news is that these cracks can be easily sealed from the inside.
• Special sealants are injected into the opening, penetrating through to the exterior where they seal the path off to
potential moisture and leaks.  These sealants usually last for a long time and come with long warranties. Although
interior sealers are good for preventing leaks and humidity, they won’t work perfectly if there is strong hydrostatic
pressure (water pressure) pushing against the foundation.

• Exterior Waterproofing: Exterior waterproofing helps to prevent water from entering your home to begin with so that
the moisture doesn’t damage the foundation or the inside of your basement.
• This method is accomplished by fully excavating around the home to the bottom of the foundation. Once that is done,
the walls are sealed with a waterproof coating, which will waterproof the walls and direct water down to a drain system.
• The drain can then be directed to a sump pump or down a slope that leads away from the foundation. This method will
efficiently stop water from entering into your home and basement through the walls or through the foundation.

• Interior & Exterior Drainage: If water did somehow make it into your home through a leak, then a proper drainage
system is a great way to keep water under control. The easiest way to utilize drainage inside your basement is to have a
sump pump that collects the water from inside and then pumps it out away from your home.
• Interior drainage systems function by draining underground water from alongside the foundation of your home and then
pump it away from the basement. These drainage systems should be prepared to work in case of a power outage, an
overwhelming rainfall or heavy snowstorm and snow melt.