EMBROIDERY OF

INDIA
Sit Dolor Amet

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Various regions have specific embroidery – Kashmir
Kani shawl and Ahir mirrorwork of Gujrat tribe

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Cultural influnced by Kings
Folk culture for masses – Chikenkari of Lucknow
Environment as inspiration for motifs and colors
 Hand embroidery
◦ Kashmir - Kashidakari
◦ Himachal Pradesh – Chamba Rumal
◦ Punjab – Counted thread of Phulkari
◦ Haryana – Cross stitch and counted thread
◦ Delhi – Old delhi for Mughal Empire – Zardosi
◦ Lucknow – Shadow work of Chikenkari for Mughal costumes
◦ UP – applique work
◦ Rajasthan – Mirror work, recycled patchwork
◦ Gujrat- Mirror work, counted thread (Suf and Kharak), Rabari and Ahir (different tribes have different embroideries and motifs)
◦ Hyderabad – Zardosi for Mughal kings
◦ Bengal – Zardosi and Kantha (recycling of old sarees with running stitch)
◦ Banjara embroidery
◦ Karnataka – Kasuthi embroidery (counted thread)
◦ Orissa – Pipli applique work for Jagannath temple
Gujrat – Rabari Tribe mirror work

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Dowry for Rabari girls
Jath tribe embroidery –
geometry and counted thread
Pakko stitch in yoke of Jath women
Ahir tribe
Ahir tribe of Kutchch
open ladder stitch, Pakko filling stitch, chain stitch and
herringbone stitch in Mirror work
MOTIFS – Flowers, leaves, tree, peacock, Krishna, elephant,
scorpio
Meghwal Tribe – Gujrat
Kutchch embroidery for menswear
Kediyo for men
Kediyo for boys
 Sindhi stitch –
interlacing

open ladder stitch

recycling of fabric
Embroidery of Gujrat on home textile

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Motifs
Geometric motifs of Kasuthi of Karnataka , Suf
of Gujrat and Phulkari of Punjab
Phulkari – open resham threads (not twisted)
Phulkari odhni as dowry for women
Kasuthi – counted thread
Chikenkari of Lucknow
Zardosi – Persian and Mughal roots
Zardosi Vintage – real gold and silver used –
Zari, dabka, gota, sequins, tilla, nakshi
Famous on accessories too
Needle work
Adda or frame for zardozi
Bridal wear mostly zardozi
Kantha of Bengal
Applique work
Applique of Banjara and Gujrat
Reverse applique – Gujrat, UP, Udaipur
Rajasthan
Khaka on butter paper