Module I Classification

Amity School Of Fashion Technology
Amity School Of Fashion

Technology
Bdes FD, VIIth Sem
Fundamentals Of Textiles-VII
(Module-I: Introduction to finishing)
1
Student Learning Objectives

• To understand the concept of finishing
• To understand the concept of objectives and functions of
finishing
• To understand the concept of physical and chemical
classification
• To understand the concept of temporary and permanent
classification
• To understand the concept of aesthetic and functional
classification
2
Contents
• Introduction of Finishing
• Objectives and functions of finishing
• Classification of finishes – Physical and chemical;
Temporary and permanent ; Aesthetic and
Functional
3
Module 1 -Introduction to finishing

• Introduction of Finishing
• Objectives and functions of finishing
• Classification of finishes
– Physical and chemical;
– Temporary and permanent ;
– Aesthetic and Functional
4
Introduction of Finishing
Definition 1
• Textile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of
fiber, fabric, or clothing. In order to impart the required
functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to
subject the material to different type of physical and
chemical treatments. (https://textilelearner.blogspot.com)
Definition 2
• Textile finishing is the term for chemical and mechanical
processes used on textiles after they have been made.
(Study.com)
5
• In the textile industry, finishing is the last step in fabric
manufacturing and is when the final fabric properties are
developed.
• Textile finishing gives a textile its final commercial
character regarding appearance, shine, handle, drape,
fullness, usability, etc.
• Nearly all textiles are finished.
6
• It is any process that is done to fibre, yarn, or fabric either
before or after fabrication.
• Right after new textiles have been made, they are
called gray goods because they're still in their natural color,
and sometimes they are rough and unappealing.
• The industrial processes involved in making textiles can
leave them dirty and not yet ready for use in making
products like clothing.
7
Textile finishing produces results that make textiles –
• more appealing and
• usable to the consumer.
• Finishing steps may take place before and after fabric has
been dyed.
8
Objectives and functions of finishing

• To impart new characteristics/properties of textile
materials such as flame retardant, water repellent or water
proof finishes.
 To set the fabric, so that it can maintain its shape and

structure.
 To meet up specific end uses.
9

 To improve wearing qualities of cloth by making it shrink
resistant (e.g. by sanforising cotton cloth or by non-felting
wool), crease resistant (by incorporating suitable resins) or
free from pills and soiling (by anti pilling and soil release
finish)
 To cover faults in the original fabric (e.g. by starch

finishing)
10

It is any process that is done to fibre, yarn, or fabric either
before or after fabrication---
 to change the appearance (what is seen),
 the hand (what is felt), or
 the performance (what the fabric does)
11
Classification of finishes
 Physical and chemical
 Temporary and permanent
 Aesthetic and Functional
12
Classification
according to
machinery
Physical Chemical
13
14
15
Physical Finishes
• Calendaring
• Heat setting:
• Napping
• Shearing
• Standing (or sueding)
• Shrink control
16
Physical Finishes
• Calendaring
A mechanical process of passing fabric between heavy
rollers. By using different combinations of heat,
pressure and rollers, It is possible to produce a wide
assortment of effects, such as glaze, watermark or
more.
Calendaring is usually done on synthetics because it is
permanent on fabrics made of natural fibers.
17
Physical Finishes
• Heat Setting
This is a final finish created by heating thermoplastic
manmade fabrics(usually ) to just below their melting point.
This treatment stabilizes the fabric so that there will be no
further change in its size or shape and therefore ,improves the
fabric’s resilience.
• Napping
Fabric surfaces are raised and plucked with needles on
rotating drums to create a woolly or flannel surface.
18
Physical Finishes
• Shearing
Fabric surfaces are sheared to give the surface a uniform pile
or to take off fuzz.
• Standing (or sueding)
The process of mechanically rubbing the fabric with rollers
coated with fine-grit sandpaper to create a soft surface.
• Shrink control
The preshrinking of cotton cloth so that it will not shrink
during laundering;also known as sanforzing or compacting.
19
Chemical Finishes
• Chemical finishing or ‘wet finishing’ involves the addition
of chemicals to textiles to achieve a desired result.
• In this finishing process water is used as the medium for
applying the chemicals.
• Heat is used to drive off the water and to activate the
chemicals. Some finishes combine mechanical processes
along with the application of chemicals.
20
Chemical Finishes
• Parchmentsing/Softening
Cellulosic fabrics, when treated with concentrated sulphuric

acid under special conditions produce the remarkable organdie
finish. This process is known as parchmentising.
A thin closely woven cotton fabric is transferred into a
beautiful transparent fabric with slight stiffness, the effect is
permanent.
Action of sulphuric acid is characterized by three different
effects depending upon its strength
21
Chemical Finishes
• Anti-Soil finish
Soil can be any substance, which in some way has a negative

influence on the desired demand profile of a textile substrate
during its use or washing. The development of anti-soil
finishes is aimed at minimizing these interactions between the
soil and the textile material (substrate).
22
Chemical Finishes
• Flame retardants
These are chemicals are applied to fabrics to inhibit or

suppress the combustion process. They interfere with
combustion at various stages of the process e.g. during
heating, decomposition, ignition of flame spread. Fire is gas
phase reaction.
• Wrinkle free finish/Crease Resistance
This finish is given to textiles (fabrics as well garments)

eliminate wrinkles or crease after use. Anti-crease finish,
Wash-and-wear finishes, Durable Press finishes are further
development of wash-and-wear finishes. 23
Chemical Finishes
• Water Proof Finishing
When a uniform coating of suitable substances such as rubber
is produced on the surface of a fabric, the interstices between
the warp and weft yarns are blocked by the continuous film or
substance and both water and air not pass through the treated
fabrics.
24
Classification
According to
End Use
Aesthetic Functional
25
Factors affecting performance

of fabric
Aesthetic performance, the functional performance of the
garment is not determined fully by the fabric. Factors which
affect the performance of finishing are
• The design
• Materials
• Construction
• the finish of a garment interact to determine utility and
durability.
26
Aesthetic performance of fabric

The aesthetic performance or attractiveness of fabric refers to
the appearance of the fabric as it complements the appearance
of the garment. However, fabric must be considered in concert
with the design.
Material and construction interact to produce the total
aesthetic effect of the garment. Fabric aesthetics include color,
pattern, color consistency, luster, opacity, and hand. All these
elements of the aesthetic performance of the raw material are
difficult to describe because of their subjective nature; they do
not lend themselves to objective measurement.
27
Aesthetic performance of fabric

Fabric aesthetics include:-
• Color
• Pattern
• color consistency
• Luster
• Opacity
• Hand.
All these elements of the aesthetic performance of the raw
material are difficult to describe because of their subjective
nature; they do not lend themselves to objective measurement.
28
Functional performance of
fabric
The functional performance of a fabric refers to its utility and
durability as its component of the garment.
Utility includes the influence of the fabric on these garment
characteristics
• (1) shape retention,
• (2) appearance retention,
• (3) comfort,
• (4) ease of care,
• (5) safety.
29
Functional performance of
fabric
Durability refers to the serviceability of the fabric regarding
these characteristics of the garment;
• (1) strength,
• (2) abrasion resistance
• (3) resistance to degradation by chemicals and other
elements of the environment.
30
Classification
According to
Quality
Permanent Temporary
31
Temporary and Permanent Finishing

• Finishes are also categorized by their degree of
permanence.
• These finishes are called --
• permanent,
• durable,
• semi-durable
• temporary.
32

• Permanent finishes usually involve a chemical change in
fibre structure and will not change or alter throughout the
life of a fabric.
• Durable finishes usually last throughout the life of the

article, but effectiveness becomes diminished after each
cleaning, and near the end of the normal use life of the
article, the finish is nearly removed.
33

• Semi-durable finishes last through several launderings or
dry cleanings and many are renewable in-home laundering
or dry cleaning.
• Temporary finishes are removed or substantially

diminished the first time an article is laundered or dry
cleaned.
34
Links to follow
https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/03/description-of-texti
le-finishing
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2017/11/textile-finishing
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/316752697_Introduc
tion_to_finishing
https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2015/11/textile-finishes-
introduction.html
35

Module I Classification

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Amity School Of Fashion Technology

Amity School Of Fashion

Student Learning Objectives

Module 1 -Introduction to finishing

• Objectives and functions of finishing

Objectives and functions of finishing

 To set the fabric, so that it can maintain its shape and

 To meet up specific end uses.

Objectives and functions of finishing

 To cover faults in the original fabric (e.g. by starch

Objectives and functions of finishing

 Temporary and permanent

 Aesthetic and Functional

Cellulosic fabrics, when treated with concentrated sulphuric

Soil can be any substance, which in some way has a negative

These are chemicals are applied to fabrics to inhibit or

This finish is given to textiles (fabrics as well garments)

Factors affecting performance

Aesthetic performance of fabric

Aesthetic performance of fabric

Temporary and Permanent Finishing

Temporary and Permanent Finishing

• Durable finishes usually last throughout the life of the

Temporary and Permanent Finishing

• Temporary finishes are removed or substantially

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