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Brake System of motor

cycle
Your motorcycle brakes have a tough job. We riders expect a
firm pull on the lever to shed our speed in less time and distance
than it took the engine to build it. What's amazing is that it does.
(The Bavarian Engine Works company) BMW's S1000XR for
example. From a standstill it accelerates to 100 mph in 6.1
seconds and 497 feet. Yet it slows to a complete stop in just five
seconds and in less than two-thirds the distance. That
impressive performance is due to the power and resilience of the
modern hydraulic brake system, which is comprised of the
following components.
 One of the first motorcycles to have any sort of braking mechanism was made by
Steffey Motorcycles of Philadelphia in 1902
 Considered to be the foundation of the modern braking system, the mechanical
drums brake was developed by Louis Renault. But had been invented earlier by
Gottieb Daimler
MASTER
CYLINDER
 Whether operated by your right hand or your right foot, this converts
mechanical force into hydraulic pressure via a lever acting on a piston
that presses on a fluid. The force with which you pull the lever, the lever’s
leverage ratio, and the size of the master-cylinder piston determine the
amount of pressure imparted on the system, which may exceed 150 psi.
BRAKE LINES

 These multilayer hoses transmit pressure from the master cylinder

to the calipers and typically utilize a Teflon inner lining surrounded
by a braided-nylon, Kevlar, or stainless-steel reinforcing layer
that’s then wrapped in a protective sheathing. The stronger the
hoses the better, since any expansion under pressure will reduce
braking force and feel. Because rubber hoses lose their strength
over time, most manufacturers recommend replacing them every
four years.
BRAKE CALIPER
 The brake caliper is where the multiplying power of
hydraulics comes into play. Since pressure applied to a
confined liquid is transmitted undiminished and with equal
force to all surfaces within the system, the pressure from the
master cylinder is exerted uniformly on the much larger area
of the caliper pistons, increasing the force many fold.
BRAKE DISC CALIPER PISTON

 The piston in brake caliper are responsible for the

brake pads making contact with the brake dacs and
consenquently slowing the motorcycle
BRAKE PADS
 f any part of the brake system deserves sympathy, it’s the pads. Their job
is to convert your bike’s kinetic energy into heat by way of friction. And
we want them to do it quietly and repeatedly and without getting too hot.
It’s not uncommon for the brakes on an aggressively ridden streetbike to
heat up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit, while the pads and discs on a racebike
may exceed 600 degrees. For an explanation of the main types of brake
pad material, see the “Pick Your Flavor” sidebar.
BRAKE DISC (OR DRUM)
 Transferring the brake pads’ resistance to motion to the wheels and on
to the tires’ contact patches are the brake discs or drums. Discs are
typically made from stainless steel, while drums are lined with cast
iron. Both materials provide a durable, heat-resistant surface for the
brake pads to press against. Modern brake discs are relieved, and or
drilled, to assist in cooling and to help shed water and debris.
BRAKE
FLUID  This is the elixir that allows it all to happen. Brake fluid is responsible for
transmitting force from the brake lever to the back of the brake pads. It
needs to be non-compressible to effectively transmit pressure, have low
viscosity to be compatible with ABS components, have good lubricity for
master-cylinder and caliper pistons seals, offer corrosion resistance, and
also have a very high boiling point.
BRAKE DICS ROTOR

 Disc brake rotors have large surfaces that create friction

enough to slow down the movement of your motorcycle. In
this article, you will get to know about the different types
of brake rotors, signs of bad rotors, and many more.
Vaccum breeder
 Even in the best-case scenario, changing hydraulic lines is messy.
Since brake fluid can damage paint and other shiny stuff on your
bike, you should remove or cover any vulnerable painted surfaces.
You will also want to get the system as empty of fluid as possible
before removing the lines. A vacuum bleeder is ideal for this. Begin
by sucking the extra fluid out of the reservoir. Then attach the hose
to a caliper’s bleeder valve. Give the bleeder a couple of pumps to
build up the suction and crack the valve until fluid starts to be drawn
into the catch tank. Keep pumping until the system is dry. Do this
for all calipers that will receive new lines.