HISTORY OF JAMDANI TEXTILE

During Mughal emperor Jahangir's regime (1605-1627), the plain

Jamdani muslin was decorated with numerous floral designs. The emperor
was seen wearing a Jamdani swatch around his waist on many occasions.
Jamdani fabric finds fleeting mentions in pieces of literature as ancient as
Arthashastra (3rd cent. BC) and also occupies space in accounts of
travelers & traders from China, Arabia, and Italy who noted its
unparalleled finesse.

Jamdani is a word of Farsi origin, in Farsi, the word ‘jam’ means Flower,
and ‘Dani’ refers to the vase. The Mughals chose this name because, at
that time, Farsi was their court language.

jamdani was originally known as Dhakai Jamdani or simply as Dhakai

and has its roots in Sonargaon (situated in present Narayangang). Jamdani
is a handloom woven fabric made of cotton, famously known as Muslin.
And it became popular for its intricate design and special weaving
technique.
https://anuprerna.com/crafts/jamdani
 Dhaka: The Home of Jamdani

In the early 20th century, the home of this craft began shifting
from Sonargaon to Rupganj. The bank of Shitalakkhya River
that was also a part of Dhaka in the past still remains as a
popular location for Jamdani craftsmen. 
 The Weaving of Dreams

The everyday life and dreams of the Jamdani weavers revolve

around their craft.  Traditional weaving is an art made of
passion, hooks, and threads. Motifs are woven on the loom,
typically in grey and white. There is a particular number of
threads used to perfectly bring a design to life. Muslin is made
of at least 300 counts of thread, while Jamdani is made of 40 to
120 counts of thread.
The weavers collect threads from their local shops. It creates a
small-scale market network among the weavers, service
providers, and producers.

Dyers use different types of colors to contrast the threads. The

choice of color depends on the design and motifs. The weavers
have mastered Jamdani motifs.
 The
Loom
During the weaving process, a small
shuttle of thread called ‘Maku’ is
passed through the weft. Two weavers
sit alongside each other at the loom
and add every discontinuous
supplementary weft motifs separately
by hand using a tool called ‘Kandul’.
They interlace the supplementary weft
threads into the warp with fine
bamboo sticks in a zigzag manner
using individual spool of thread.
 The local weavers use bamboo in making the whole structure of the
loom; it is locally called “tant”. Wood, jute, or plastic can also be used to
make a loom.
 Weavers set up looms inside a house according to space availability and economic
capacity. For poor families that usually have only one living room, their looms are set
up in it, too
Two weavers can use one loom at the same time to make a
saree.
APPROACH TO THE CRAFT
 THE TECHNIQUE OF JAMDANI WEAVE

The jamdani weave is a supplementary weft technique of weaving, where the artistic motifs are produced by a non-
structural weft, in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together.

The standard weft creates a fine, sheer fabric while the supplementary weft with thicker threads adds intricate patterns
to it. Each one of the motif designs is handwoven into the muslin using a single continuous extra weft yarn.

The result is a complex mix of different patterns that appear to float on the surface of the Jamdani fabric.

The pattern is not sketched or outlined on the fabric but is drawn on graph paper and placed underneath the warp. Often
a mixture of cotton and gold thread was used. Usually, the Jamdani motifs are geometric in their silhouette

https://anuprerna.com/crafts/jamdani
Different Designs Of
Jamdani
 
The traditional art of Jamdani weaving is one that has been around for centuries, and the designs that can be
created with this type of weaving are truly unique and beautiful. There are many different designs today
weavers develop, and each one is sure to impress. These are some design patterns of traditionally woven
Jamdani-
•Panna Hazar
•Balihar
•Batpata
•Karla
•Jal
•Butidar
•Jalpar
•Tercha
•Pansi
•Mayurpankhi
•Dubli
•Katihar
•Kalkapar
•Duria etc.
TRADITIONAL CONTEMPORARY
COLORS COLORS
 JAMDANI
MOTIF

Popular motifs of Jamdani include: panna hajar

(thousand emeralds), kalaka (paisley), butidar (small
flower), fulwar (flower arranged in straight rows),
tesra (diagonal patterns), jalar (motifs evenly
covering the sari), duria (polka spots), charkona
(rectangular motifs), naksha, belwari, nayanbahar,
toradar, hazartara mayuri, and others.

https://artsandculture.google.com/story/jamdani-the-art-of-weaving-ichcap/MAUhKvXXi00LLg?hl=en
types of Jamdani saree
THE PROCESS OF MAKING JAMDANI
MUSLIN
 EVOLUTION OF
JAMDANI

Traditionally, the use of Jamdani was limited to mainly sarees

and was, therefore, always woven into a fine muslin fabric.
However, with modernization, the craft has evolved and been
adapted to modern silhouettes. Today Jamdani comes in higher
gsm which allows the wider application to western styles.

Besides this, Jamdani motif design however has evolved from

traditional designs to more contemporary ones. Over time,
these ancient motifs have become simplified. Today we can
see 
Jamdani fabrics with minimalistic modern motif designs in abs
tract geometric shapes
 along with varying sizes and colours, giving the fabric a
modern appeal.
FABRIC
RAW MATERIAL
PRODUCT
MOTIFS
BUSINESS MARKETING
CHALLENGES
PROMOTIONS
Awards and Certificates
 Pros & Cons of Jamdani

 1. Lightweight & airy:

This is a type of fabric that is lightweight and airy. It is perfect for summer weather, allowing air to
circulate and keeping you cool.
 
2. Versatile:
Jamdani sarees are soo versatile that can be worn by any shaped woman. It is perfect for any special
occasion and long-distance journeys.
 
3. High-quality cotton thread:
Fine count Jamdani is made of high-quality cotton thread which is fully handmade. The thread is spun
from the finest quality cotton, which gives the fabric a soft feel and a luxurious look.
 
4. Thin and Soft:
Jamdani is a thin and soft fabric that is perfect for any weather. It is breathable, making it a great choice
for hot weather.
 
5. Eye-catching motifs
Jamdanis have a great floral or ornamental motif which makes them so eye-catchy. The motifs make it so
classy that you wear it on any occasion.
 
6. Perfect for any occasion:
It is perfect for any occasion! Whether you’re dressing up for a wedding event or just need something
comfortable to wear around the office, Jamdani will always look great. With its intricate designs and
beautiful colors, it is sure to impress.
 
7. Smooth finish
Jamdani has a very smooth finish, which makes it feel luxurious and soft to the touch. With that, Jamdani
will always make you feel classy.
 
8. Comfortable to wear
It is very comfortable to wear. It is made from cotton and is known for its softness and durability.
 
9. Sustainable
You can easily keep it in your collection for years and it will be as it was kept. I have a couple of jamdani
that are 15 years old and they still look new.
In short, buy it! You will not regret it.
Cons:
 
1. Expensive
Authentic jamdanis are very expensive, and can often cost several hundred dollars. They are made with
high-quality yarn, and the process of making them is very time-consuming.
 
2. Possibility of fake
The possibility of fake Jamdani textiles is high, as the fabric is intricate and expensive. This is a hand-
woven fabric from Bangladesh, made from cotton or silk. Few are trying to make it into the machine!
Though they are not successful, they are printing it on low-quality fabric and selling those by the name of
Jamdani.
 
3. Time-Consuming
Jamdani weaving is so time-consuming that it takes 3 months to 1 year to weave a Saree. It takes at least
10 months to weave a saree from the weaving of raw cotton to the finished product. It is said that in the
past even kings and other rich people used to wear jamdani saris.
 
4. Fragile
As we have already come to know that monsoon is the perfect time to weave Jamdani. While buying
Jamdani we obviously never know if it has been woven in the right season. That’s why sometimes when
Jamdani is kept in the closet for a long time, the fabric may break.