INTRODUCTION

of SEWING
MACHINE
INTRODUCTION

20,000 years ago the only means of stitching two pieces of

fabric together is with the use of a common needle and a length
of thread. The thread might be of silk, flax, wool or other fibrous
material. During that time Needles are made of bone, silver,
bronze, steel, or some other metal with its thread-carrying eye
had been an ingenious improvement over the sharp bone, stick,
or other object used to pierce a hole through which a lacing then
had to be passed. The earliest known sewing needles made of
iron come from the Celtic hill fort at Manching Germany, and
date to the third century BC.
On 19TH Century sewing machine is considered as one of the
most important invention, sewing machine is used to stitch the
fabric and other pliable materials together with threads. Sewing
machine lessen the substantial of manual sewing done in
garment industries. Sewing machines reduce the amount of
manual sewing in preparing a garment or any other article.
Sewing machines help the operator in getting the work done
quicker, with greater accuracy and much more consistently.
DEVELOPMENT OF SEWING
MACHINE
In 1755, Charles Fredrick Wiesenthal, a German man, was issued a
British patent for a “needle that is designed for a machine.”
Unfortunately, there’s no description in Wiesenthal’s patent of any
mechanical machine, but it shows there was a need for such an invention.

In 1790: The First Detailed Design

The history of the sewing machine & who invented it essentially
starts here. Englishman Thomas Saint designed the first sewing
machine of its kind. The patent described a machine powered with
a hand crank to be used for leather and canvas. Nobody knows if
Saint built a prototype, but in 1874, William Newton Wilson found
the patent drawings. They were so detailed, he built a replica,
proving that it did work.
DEVELOPMENT OF SEWING
MACHINE
In 1830 a French tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier
(1793-1857), patented the first practical sewing
machine. It employed a hook-tipped needle, much like
an embroidery needle, that was moved downward by a
cord-connected foot treadle and returned by a spring.
Like Thomas Saint's machine, it produced a chain
stitch. By 1841, eighty of his machines were being used
to sew uniforms for the French army. However, his
factory was destroyed by a mob of tailors, who saw the
new machines as a threat to their livelihood.
Thimonnier died bankrupt in England.
DEVELOPMENT OF SEWING
MACHINE
The earliest idea for a double-thread
sewing machine came from Walter Hunt
(1796-1860) of New York in 1834. Often called
a Yankee mechanical genius, (Hunt also
invented the safety pin) Hunt devised a
machine that used a reciprocating eye-
pointed needle. It worked in combination with
a shuttle carrying a second needle, making an
interlocked stitch comparable to that of the
modem machine. He abandoned the project,
however, convinced that his invention would
throw impoverished seamstresses out of
work.
DEVELOPMENT OF SEWING
MACHINE
In 1846, Elias Howe (1819-67) patented a
sewing machine with a grooved, eye-pointed
needle and shuttle. This lock stitch machine
could sew nothing but straight seams, which
could not be longer than the basing plate.
Unsuccessful in marketing the device in
America, Howe went to England to adapt his
machine for an English corset-maker. He
returned penniless to find that sewing machines
were being sold by many manufacturers, all
infringing on some part of his 1846 patent. In
1856, after favorable litigation, Howe entered
into the world's first patent pool.
DEVELOPMENT OF SEWING
MACHINE
In 1851, Isaac M. Singer (1811-75) patented the
first rigid-arm sewing machine. Before this, all
machines employed an overhanging arm that held
the needle directly and vibrated with it. Singer's
machine also included a table to support the cloth
horizontally, instead of a feed bar; a vertical presser
foot to hold the cloth down against the upward
stroke of the needle, and an arm to hold the presser
foot and the vertical needle-holding bar in position
over the table. A real breakthrough was his invention
of a foot treadle instead of a hand crank. Parts of
Singer's new machine were based on Howe's work.
In fact, Singer was sued by Howe for infringement of
the latter's patent rights, but a compromise was
reached where Singer paid a royalty.
DEVELOPMENT OF SEWING
MACHINE
In 1850 American inventor Allen Benjamin
Wilson (1824-88) invented both the vibrating
and the rotating shuttle. Wilson developed a
prototype for a reciprocating-shuttle machine.
When the needle went through the cloth, it
formed a loop below the seam. A shuttle that
was pointed on both ends held a second thread
that was passed through the loop and as the
tension on the thread was tightened, a lockstitch
was made. This shuttle could be moved both
forward and backwards to form a stitch on both
movements, unlike the shuttles of Hunt and
Howe, which only created a stitch in one
direction.
DEVELOPMENT OF SEWING
MACHINE
The Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company started
in 1857 as the answer to Singer's more expensive
machines. In 1855, James Gibbs, a 24-year old farmer,
first saw a woodcut illustration of a sewing machine,
and out of curiosity, he devised his own machine. Two
years later, while visiting a tailor in Virginia, he noticed a
Singer sewing machine, which he thought was too
heavy, complicated, and exorbitantly priced. Recalling
his own invention, he teamed up with James Willcox
whose family was already involved in building models of
new inventions.
DEVELOPMENT OF SEWING
MACHINE
Together, they manufactured chain stitch sewing
machines, which, on a simple iron-frame stand with
treadle, sold for approximately $50. Similar machines
sold for $100. The Singer company then brought out
their own light family machine in 1858, but it also sold
for $100. The Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine
Company prospered and even into the 1970s was
producing commercial machines, many of which were
based on the original chain stitch principle.
DEVELOPMENT OF SEWING
MACHINE
Thousands of sewing machine patents
granted in the past 150 years, hundreds
of them have been by women. Notable
among them is Helen Augusta
Blanchard (1840-1922) of Maine. Of her
28 patents, 22 of them deal with
sewing machines; she is particularly by
Henry Alonzo House in 1862. The
model for her 1973 over seaming
machine can be seen at the
Smithsonian.
DEVELOPMENT OF SEWING
MACHINE
Later in 1889, the machines run by electricity were
designed with motors fixed in them. At first, these
were standard machines with a motor strapped on the
side. As with the expansion of the power in houses,
these became more popular and the motor was
gradually introduced into the casing. Later innovations
include the ability to make more sophisticated
stitching patterns.
DEVELOPMENT OF SEWING
MACHINE
In 1920’s the motor was plugged into the design by Singer
Sewing Company and replaced the foot- operated treadle and
make it work much faster. This is what we call the Industrial
Sewing Machine.
In the twenty-first century, sewing machine companies
have manufactured several type of machines used for different
sewing techniques and there are also computerized machines,
embroidery machines and special purpose machines
manufactured. The latest machines have LCD screens,
microprocessors, and pre-programmed fonts. Years passed and
the development of sewing machine still continues. Categories
of sewing machine
Types of Sewing Machine
Though there are different types of sewing machine but mainly, three types are
considered for sewing, as given below.

1. Mechanical sewing machines this machine have inner

workings that consist of gears, shafts, levers, less expensive and
are the simplest type of sewing machines in terms of build.
Mechanical machines do not have electronics such as circuit
boards, computer chips and software. Mechanical machines
are still made today. Two type of mechanical sewing machine:
1.1 Hand-operated sewing machine -this is the simplest form
of domestic sewing machine which is operated by hand. A
handle is attached to the flywheel which is detachable and is
used to operate the machine. Commonly used for domestic
purpose for simple projects as it does not work very speedily.
Types of Sewing Machine
1.2 Treadle sewing machine- This machine is the same as a
hand-operated sewing machine but it is operated by feet, with
an additional stand attached to the machine. A belt is attached
to the lower stand passing through the balance wheel and
driven by feet. These machines run faster than the hand-
operated sewing machine. (This machine is also suitable for the
places where there is no electric supply.
Types of Sewing Machine
2. Electronic sewing machine- In the 1970's electronic machines appeared.
Electronic machines build on the basic mechanical machine and add electronics
such as circuit boards, computer chips and additional motors to independently
control various aspects of the machine while it is running. It is essential to control
the speed of this machine by putting pressure on an electronic foot pedal.
3. Computerized sewing machines- These sewing machines allow the Operator to
modify the functions according to the sewing needs are very fast and specific to
use, a computerized sewing machine works with the help of various software’s.
These sewing machine functions very appropriately in designing and stitching
various components of the garment. Some advanced computerized machines
have an LCD display or touch screen. They are multi-function machines and are
expensive.
Several types of electronic and computerized sewing
machine according to their specific applications.
1. Buttonhole machine is usually sewn with two parallel rows in a narrow zig-zag
stitch, with the ends finished in a bar tack created using a broader zig-zag stitch.
One of the first automatic buttonhole machines was invented by Henry Alonzo
House in 1862.It also reinforced holes in fabric that buttons pass through, allowing
one piece of fabric to be secured to another.
Several types of electronic and computerized sewing
machine according to their specific applications.
2. Button attaching machine Specially used for attaching the polo shirt and woven
shirt buttons. This machine is very useful in clothing industries. The first
mechanical button stitch machine was patented by Harrison Tone of Denison
Texas in January 24, 1888.
Several types of electronic and computerized sewing
machine according to their specific applications.
3. Bar-tack machine these machine has a zigzag pattern repeated
perpendicular over itself several times to make a sewn product
stronger, and resistant to tears or rips in the seams.
Several types of electronic and computerized sewing
machine according to their specific applications.
4. Feed off arm machine is used in making flat and felt seam. Two
needle threads form the chain stitch. This machine is used for sewing
shirt side seams and under arms, and for sewing jeans inseam.
Several types of electronic and computerized sewing
machine according to their specific applications.
5. Blind stitch machine is used when you do not desire the stitches to be seen, this
is accomplished by picking up only one thread at a time, Blind stitch machine
makes a 1 thread stitch which on the face side of the fabric appears to be hidden.
Clothing industries used machine in making men’s woman’s clothing, plus
household textiles like curtains Basically used for the luxurious and high class
garments.
Several types of electronic and computerized sewing
machine according to their specific applications.
6. Hemming stitch machine used for finishing hems.
Traditionally, hemstitching was done by hand as threads were
removed from the fabric. Karl Friedrich Gegauf invented the
first hemstitching machine in 1893
Several types of electronic and computerized sewing
machine according to their specific applications.
7. Chain stitch sewing machine is formed by two or more sets of threads named
needle thread and looper thread. The sewing threads are bound together by
interloping and interlacing. Chain stitch machine speed normally kept at 8000spm.
Several types of electronic and computerized sewing
machine according to their specific applications.
8. Over-lock sewing machine also known as “serger sewing machine” used for
edge finishing and seaming. The overlock stitch can only sew on the edge of the
fabric. A sergers can be used for construction by joining the edges of two pieces of
fabric. Technically speaking, sergers have a built in cutter to trim the edge of the
fabric and overlock machines do not have a cutter, but in common usage the term
“serger” and “overlock machine” are interchangeable and mean the same thing
Several types of electronic and computerized sewing
machine according to their specific applications.
9. Single Lock Stitch Machine are formed with one needle
thread and one bobbin thread. this sewing machine is widely
used for joining two or multiple fabric plies together, can sew
light weight, medium weight and heavy materials.
Two Categories of Lock stitch sewing
machine

1. Domestic sewing machines These are designed mainly for one

person to sew individual dresses while using a single stitch type.
Modern sewing machines are designed in such a way that the
fabric easily glides in and out of the sewing machine, speeding the
stitching process and saving time and energy.

2. Industrial sewing machines are a heavy-duty version of a standard

basic sewing machine, and it is used in garment and other related
industries. Industrial sewing machines are used for mass
production. An industrial machine is well equipped with a clutch
and large servo motor.
Two Categories of Lock stitch sewing
machine
COMPARISON BETWEEN DOMESTIC AND INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES
DOMESTIC SEWING MACHINES INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES
Stitching not more than 1500 stitches per .
minute stitching from 3000–6000 stitches per
minute
presser foot generally operated presser foot on a power machine is
manually using a lever at the back of the raised and lowered with a knee lift to a
needle bar. special foot pedal
 
Lubrication manually done Lubrication is done automatically
 
Usually work on lightweight fabrics or designed to sew heavy material speedily,
work pieces. such as leather, canvas, and vinyl
 
to be used for working a couple of hours at run for longer hours, and able to deal with
a time, and you can stop and start your more powerful projects
project easily.
 
Usually used in homes used for mass production.
Usually have one-foot pedal have a foot pedal or knee pedal or both.
 
Single Needle Lockstitch Industrial Sewing
Machine

This is the most basic type of sewing machine used

for heavy duty purposes.
Main Parts:
Head
Head – this is where most of the mechanical parts
of the machine is located. Table
Motor
Table – It serves as the base of the machine head
where the sewing process is performed. Legs

Legs – It is the stand for the table of the machine.

Motor – It is the electrical power unit which allows
the machine to work. l - /
Single Needle Lockstitch Industrial Sewing
Machine

Parts and Function:

Thread Stand – It is where the thread used for sewing rests

Thread guides – it serves as a guide where the thread passes through while
sewing.
Upper thread tension – it controls the delivery of thread from the thread stand
Three-hole thread eyelet – this three holes’ guide and control the thread from
the upper thread tension.
Single Needle Lockstitch Industrial Sewing
Machine
Single Needle Lockstitch Industrial Sewing
Machine
Thread Stand – It is where the thread used for sewing rests
Thread guides – it serves as a guide where the thread passes through while sewing.
Upper thread tension – it controls the delivery of thread from the thread stand
Three-hole thread eyelet – this three holes guide and control the thread from the upper thread tension.
Thread tension assembly – this is the control mechanism for the upper thread while sewing.
Thread take-up lever – This part of the machine goes up and down as it pulls the thread from the upper
thread tension assembly
Needle clamp – this holds the needle securely while sewing
Presser foot – it holds the fabric down and presses it unto the feed mechanism
Feed dog – this serves as the teeth of the machine and works in conjunction with the presser foot
Pull up arm – it is a lever which when pulled up lifts the presser foot after the machine is used
Stitch regulator – It controls the length of stitches as needed for sewing
Band wheel – located at the right side of the head, it serves as a pulley which turns the belt of the machine
around.
Single Needle Lockstitch Industrial Sewing
Machine
Reverse lever – it reverses the movement of the feed dog when pushed
Switch – the power switch turns the machine on and off as it is pushed.
Oil reservoir – this contains the machine oil which lubricates the mechanical parts
inside the head of the machine
Rotary hook assembly - located under the machine head, it holds the bobbin case
which serves as the lower thread compartment
Slide plate – as the bobbin case is inserted under the machine, the slide plate is
opened so that the bobbin case will be placed properly on the shuttle
Knee lifter – it is the circular plate on the knee level which, when pushed, lifts the
presser foot.
Treadle – it is the platform where the feet rest while sewing. The clutch is pushed
with the toes and allows the machine to run, while the brake is pushed with the
heel and allows the machine to stop.