Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Leather
Leather
• The tanning process derives its name from tannin (tannic acid), the agent that displaces water from
the interstices of the hide’s protein fibres and cements these fibres together and converts the skin to a
stable and non-decaying material.
• Tanning is the process of controlled denaturation of protein of the raw hides and skins.
• The basic raw material for tanning industry is a by-product of the meat processing industry.
• The term hide is used to designate the skin of larger animals (e.g., cowhide or horsehide), whereas
“skin” refers to that of smaller animals (e.g., calfskin or kidskin).
3 Introduction
• When an animal is alive, its skin is soft, flexible, very tough and hard wearing: it has the ability to
allow water vapour to pass out, but it will not allow water in. When the skin dies it loses these
characteristics: if it is kept wet it rots, and if it is dried it goes hard and brittle.
• The process of tanning is to retain the skin's natural properties, to stabilise its structure and at the same
time to chemically process it so it will no longer be subject to putrefaction. Thus leather is animal skin
that has been treated such that its natural properties are retained.
21st Century
chemical tannage—
in particular, the use
of chrome salts—was
introduced.
1893 A.D
5000 B.C Middle Ages By the mid-19th century, power-driven
Primitive man dried fresh skins in the During the Middle Ages the Arabs preserved machines that performed such
sun, softened them by pounding in the art of leather making and so improved it operations as splitting, fleshing, and
animal fats and brains, and preserved that it became highly prized leathers. dehairing were introduced.
them by salting and smoking.
is immune to abrasion in moist & Leather is warm in winter and cool
dry environments which makes lit a in summer.
wonderful protector of human pores
The
and skin.
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The atmosphere of modern
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ost
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t
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ies
Leather can be moulded
a
burning of carbon fuels
to
t
n
and will retain its new
ic
Resi Mou
with sulphur dioxide gas, stan ld
chem ce to
abil shape. It has both elastic
which can accelerate the
ity
i
deterioration of leather. atta cal and plastic properties in
ck Properties wear.
Modern leathers are
tanned and dressed to
ce ry
is an ion
ce
to
resist these harmful
a dd
n
Re et ras
ta gi These properties, concerned
chemicals. is
w ab
s fu n with wear & maintenance,
n
e
Resistance
R o
to fire &
t
t are controlled by the tannage
water
s
and surface finish.
Leather is resistant to
mildew
Leather is inherently resistant to heat,
flame and water.
6 Composition of Hide/Skin
The skin - the largest organ in the human body comprising 12-15% of body weight. The skin is our outer
covering and has very important vital functions for keeping the physiological and biochemical conditions of
the body in its optimum state.
The most important functions of the skin are:
• Regulates body temperature.
• Prevents loss of essential body fluids, and penetration of toxic substances.
• Protection of the body from harmful effects of the sun and radiation.
• Excretes toxic substances with sweat.
• Mechanical support.
• Sensory organ for touch, heat, cold and emotional sensations.
• Vitamin D synthesis from its precursors under the effect of sunlight and introversion of steroids.
7 Skin Layers
• The hides of mammals are composed of three layers: epidermis, a thin outer layer; corium, or dermis, the thick
central layer; and a subcutaneous fatty layer called Hypodermis.
• The corium is used to make leather after the two sandwiching layers have been removed
8 Skin Layers
• Skin is made up of many bundles of interwoven
protein fibres which are able to move in relation to
one another when the skin is alive. When the skin
dies, these fibres tend to shrivel and stick together.
Essentially, the purpose of tanning is to
permanently fix the fibres apart by chemical
treatment, and to lubricate them so they can move
in relation to one another. Amino acids are the monomers that make up proteins
• Well tanned leather, retains the properties of flexibility, toughness and wear. It also continues to 'breathe', allowing
water vapour to pass through but remaining reasonably water-proof.
• In addition, the process of tanning imparts the advantage of resistance to heat, colour, texture and finish to the
leather, to enhance its appearance and suit it to today's fashion requirements
9 Composition of Hide
Fresh hides contain between 60-70% water by
weight and 30-35% protein. About 85% of the
protein is collagen, a fibrous protein held together
by chemical bonds.
• Autolysis of collagen, in fact, starts just following the death of the animal due to the activity of spoilage
bacteria producing proteolytic enzymes
10 Composition of Collagen
• Physically, the skin consists of tiny interwoven collagen fibres, each of which in its turn is made up of tiny
fibrils. The tanner aims to separate these fibres, remove any unwanted matter from the structure and
stabilise and preserve it, whilst retaining the useful properties.
• Skin collagen is usually associated with keratin (the protein in hair, wool and nails). Most mammals have
an outer coat of hair, wool or fur, which acts as an insulating layer and keeps the animal warm.
• Keratin is a fibrous protein and different from collagen in one very important aspect: the polypeptide
chains are linked together by cystine linkages. The early part of leather production is the removal of hair
from the skin, and the presence of the cystine linkage makes it possible for this to be achieved.
11 Ty p e s o f Ta n n i n g
Several tanning processes transform hides and skins into leather:
1. Vegetable Tanning
2. Chrome Tanning
3. Aldehyde Tanning
4. Formaldehyde Tanning
5. Brain Tanning
6. Rose Tanning
7. Alum Tanning
12
Ve g e t a b l e Ta n n i n g
• Vegetable tanning is to process the hides in a pure and natural way without using harmful
chemicals. The process is used in order to stabilise the skins and be able to process the resulting
leather by taking the advantage of the tannic acids naturally found in some plants.
• The actual tanning process takes between one and three months but can be accelerated with the
addition of synthetic tanning agents.
• Tanning starts with a penetration process, leaving the combination of hides and natural tanning acids
rest until the tan is well into the leather.
• It is the true "chemical-free" method, and does not have harmful chemicals.
• The natural appearance before painted, has a slightly brownish tinge over a beige color, with a
natural, woody and earthy smell.
Ty p e s o f Ta n n i n g
13
Ve g e t a b l e Ta n n i n g
• Advantages • Disadvantages
colors and textures have a more natural and Production time (about two months);
used/maintained; workers.
very high final costs.
Ty p e s o f Ta n n i n g
14
C h r o m e Ta n n i n g
• The most popular and controversial tanning method using chrome surfate and other chromium salts
which adds up to 80% of the global leather supply.
• It is effective and fast (within a few days) to produce a soft and uniform leather and does not
discolor or lose shape as drastically in water as vegetable-tanned.
• The raw appearance is pale blue in color (known as wet-blue for its color derived from the
chromium) and with a strong chemical smell that frequently remains in the final product.
• However, there are environmental concerns with this tanning method as chromium salts is harmful
to the human and environmental health, it is a carcinogenic, persistent and indestructible chemical.
Ty p e s o f Ta n n i n g
15
Difference
between Vegetable
and Chrome
Tanning
Ty p e s o f Ta n n i n g
16
A l d e h y d e / F o r m s l d e h y d e / B r a i n Ta n n i n g
• Is advertised as the "chromium-free" method and mainly used in the automotive, clothing and
footwear industry for infants.
• Is tanned using Formaldehyde (a pungent smelling gas) which is water soluble and its solution is
known as formalin(toxic and may develop acidity, contains 40 % formaldehyde ).
• Formaldehyde is probably the only tanning gas and is used for tanning white, washable leathers
with the grain split or shaved off.
• This is the leather that most tanners refer to as wet white leather due to its pale cream or white
colour.
• But the formaldehyde, base chemical in this process, is dangerous, and the toxicity .
Ty p e s o f Ta n n i n g
17
R o s e Ta n n i n g
Ty p e s o f Ta n n i n g
18
A l u m Ta n n i n g
Ty p e s o f Ta n n i n g
19 Manufacturing Process
20 Manufacturing Process
Leather manufacturing process
• Leather manufacturing processes are subdivided into three
fundamental sub-processes.
1. Preparatory stages
2. Tanning
3. Crusting
21
Ca(OH)2, Organic acid,
pH: 3.5 Tan bark
Na2S
Skins,
kips, Liming Drench Lay-away Jacking
Vegetable tanning
Spent liquor
hides (10 days) vat vat bench
Dye
steam
De-hairing
Scudding
Dyeing
Fresh tan liquor
drum
Bunch
Trimming machine Tanning Tanning Drying
vat vat loft
Table
30 min)
Stuffing
Reduction
Emossing
Tryptic
drum
Pickling
setting
Soaking
drum
drum
drum
rolls
Enzyme
Pit batting Chrome tanning
(2 baths)
H2O HCl H2O
1st bath
Measuring
Rinsing
machine
NaCl
Beaming Splitting
bath
vat
2nd
Rinse vat machine
22
Na2Cr2O7
23 Leather Manufacturing Process
Leather manufacturing processes are subdivided into three fundamental sub-processes.
1. Preparatory stages
2. Tanning
Beam-house operations:
3. Crusting • The term beam-house derives from
an ancient practice, where the hides
are hung over a special curved log or
table, known as the beam for de-
hairing.
24 Leather Manufacturing Process
1. Preparatory Stages: 1. Selection, Skinning, Trimming, Fleshing & Weighing
At first select raw hides/skins and put aside the putrefied stock to treat separately
• skinning in performed in which skins are removed from the flesh of slaughtered/dead animals before the
body heat leaves the tissues.
• Trimming is done to remove the unwanted hairs from the surface of raw-hide.
• Fleshing is performed for the removal of un-removed animal flesh and fat particles from the internal
surface of raw-hides.
• Initially hides are soaked in water in soaking pit for approximately 3-24 hours to remove dirt or other
• Then Curing (wet-salting (brine-curing) ) is applied by agitating the hides in salt water bath (soaking pit)
• Hides are again soaked in clean water to remove the salt left over from curing and increase the
pH Check: pH: 9.0 – 10. If the pH goes over 11,it is called immunization of soaking. In this case hair gets
fixed in its root and cause problem in liming process.
Soda Ash or Na2CO3- It increases the pH & works as bleaching agent. It helps to maintain pH.
Bactericide- It prevents bacteria's growth in raw h/s
Soaking Enzyme: It works as catalyst to return the wet condition completely in hides just like green
condition and also remove loose plunk which grows during mechanical agitation of soaking.
It also assists to control the pH in optimum level.
• Enzymes (Proteases), Tyratic enzymes, amylases can be used for this reason that act upon the
Note:
skin proteins. • (The enzymes used in the “Bating Process” or any other
process should not damage or dissolve the collagen or
• 32 degree Celsius and for 20-30 minuteskeratin, but should be able to hydrolyze Casein, elastin,
time duration.
albumin and globulin-like proteins, as well as non-
structured proteins that are not essential for leather
manufacturing.
• It is especially important to hydrolyze the elastin if the
leather is to be limed, or treated with calcium hydroxide; if
not treated properly before liming, the elastin will harden
Preparatory Stage Tanning
during the process). Crusting
32 Leather Manufacturing Process
1. Preparatory Stages:
Rinsing vat and Pickling
• After bating step the material can once again washed by using clean water in rinsing vat.
• Once bating is complete, the hides and skins are treated with a mixture of common table salt and
sulphuric acid (in case of mineral tanning to be done).
• This is done to bring down the pH of collagen to a very low level so as to facilitate the penetration
of mineral tanning agent into the substance. This process is know as “Pickling”.
• The common salts (sodium chloride) penetrates the hide twice as fast as the acid.
• This process takes several days and is best done with the skins suspended in the acid bath and given
gentle agitation.
• A pH of 3.0-3.5 is maintained.
Preparatory Stage Tanning Crusting
33 Leather Manufacturing Process
2. Tanning
• Tanning is a process of conversion of proteins of raw hide or skin into a stable material which
will not putrefy, to make it worth full for end applications.
• The basic difference between raw hides and tanned hides is that raw hides dry out to form a hard
inflexible material that when re-wetted putrefy, while tanned material dries out to a flexible form
that does not become putrid when wetted-back.
• Two types of basic tanning processes used depending upon the end application process of
produced leather, it includes,
Vegetable tanning
Mineral Tanning (Chrome tanning)
• The tannin extract is mixed with water and placed in a rotating drum along with the animal skin.
• The rotation of the drum will evenly distribute the extract over the skin.
• Obtained hides absorbs large quantities of tannins, and the absorbed material fills up the holes and
stiffens the leather.
• Tannins from chestnut, oak, hemlock, eucalyptus, quebracho, mangrove are used.
• Once the chromium enters the leather, which leaves the leather a pale blue color (due to chromium),
this product is commonly know as “Wet blue”.
• The level of chromium penetration into the hide surface can be checked in regular intervals by
cutting the skin from its cross-sectional area.
• Next to the reduction drum, hides are treated in settling drum with borax to set the chrome salt onto
the fibers, this process is called as “Basification” (because for the settling of chrome, frequent
increase in pH is desired, that helps the formation of chromium complexes).
Preparatory Stage Tanning Crusting
37 Leather Manufacturing Process
C h r o m e Ta n n i n g :
• Chrome tanning process requires only 1-3 weeks.
• The practical measure of degree of chrome tannage is that of thermal stability, if the leather can
withstand at temperature of 100 degree Celsius, under wet conditions, it is considered to be
satisfactory tanned.
• Fat-liquoring is a process in which tanned leathers are treated with reactive oils, which attach
themselves to the fibrous structures, and lubricate them, so that they can move readily in relation to
one another, producing soft leather.
Splitting and Skiving machines:
• Splitting machines accurately split a material into a thinner dimensions and can split a thick material into
many thinner pieces.
• These machines are also often used by automotive, rubber and plastic industries, predominantly in their
laboratories and also in their production operations.
• Skiving machines removes the excess material, usually along the degree or the edges of a part.
• Skiving is often used in the leather goods, automotive and furniture industries to bevel the edges of parts that
Preparatory Stage Tanning Crusting
42 Leather Manufacturing Process
Jacking Bench:
• The coated and dry leather product is then allowed to enter into the jacking bench.
• It is actually a machine equipped with a solid cylindrical piece of glass, probably 2 inches in diameter
and 6 inches long.
• Then pressure applied by the machine onto the leather surface can be controlled, and the surface of
leather can be glazed to the desired degree.
• By this operation, workers can bring up the good color tones, and a high gloss finish at different areas
of skin.
• The rubbing of the glass across the finish develops high temperatures, which promotes hardening of
the finish and at the same time quick smoothing action that results in high gloss finish.
Preparatory Stage Tanning Crusting
43 Leather Manufacturing Process
Jacking Bench:
Measuring Machines:
• Quality of leather is now measured using light scanners fitted to a conveyer belt in a finishing
department.
Basic Building block for the Tanning Reaction, formation of OXO compounds, with Cr-O-
Cr bonds.
45
Leather manufacturing process
46
Skins,
kips, hides
Trimming
Table
Soaking
Pit
Beaming
47
Ca(OH)2, Organic acid,
pH: 3.5 Tan bark
Na2S
Skins,
kips, Liming Drench Lay-away Jacking
Vegetable tanning
Spent liquor
hides (10 days) vat vat bench
Dye
steam
De-hairing
Scudding
Dyeing
Fresh tan liquor
drum
Bunch
Trimming machine Tanning Tanning Drying
vat vat loft
Table
30 min)
Stuffing
Reduction
Emossing
Tryptic
drum
Pickling
setting
Soaking
drum
drum
drum
rolls
Enzyme
Pit batting Chrome tanning
(2 baths)
H2O HCl H2O
1st bath
Measuring
Rinsing
machine
NaCl
Beaming Splitting
bath
vat
2nd
Rinse vat machine
48
Na2Cr2O7
49
50
51
52
53
54
Skins,
kips, hides
Trimming
Table
Soaking
Pit
Beaming
55
USES
• Clothing (e.g: shoes, hats, jackets,
skirts, trousers and belts)
• Bookbinding
• Leather wallpaper
• Furniture covering
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57
A l d e h y d e Ta n n i n g
• The skins are prepared to a pH 4 or 5 and drummed in 3% formalin with the least possible amount
of water. A temperature of 30 oC is beneficial. After runtime of 4-5 hours, they are left in the closed
drum overnight and then 'ashed up' (1-1.5 % soda ash, 50-100% water) until pH is not less than 8.
At this pH formaldehyde rapidly fixes to the skins. At higher pHs over tannage of grain side (with no
penetration) occurs. If production of grain leather is intended various(modified) alkali systems are
recomended (use of Mg salts) to avoid this danger.
The amount of aldehyde being attached to the hide is small, from 0.2 to 2 %. Part of this may
remain unbound. Aldehydes combine with the basic amino group of skin protein. In alkali some
condensation(aldol) to larger molecules give fullness to the leather.
Aldehyde tanned leathers have reduced ability to fix acid (basic groups have reacted).Similarly they
can reduce fixation of some vegetable tans and dyes. Aldehyde tannage reduces isoelectric point of
T y p e hides,
s o f Tsoa nthat
n i nat
g any pH it has a lower cationic charge than raw skin, and mineral tanned leather.
Leather industries in pakistan
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