ELEMENTS OF

INSPECTION
 ELEMENTS OF INSPECTION
1ST PROCESSING STAGE (GINNING)
During an on-site inspection, a facility at the first processing stage should show evidence
that organic and conventional fibres are never commingled to avoid contamination.
This can be ensured via different storage locations, clear marking, proper storage &
handling.
Training and awareness of workers is of paramount importance
here, since raw organic and conventional fibres look the same.
Raw fibres purchased must be certified to an organic production standard that is approved
in IFOAM Family of Standards for relevant scope of production (crop / animal production).
The qualitative GMO Screening of organic cotton is required as per ISO IWA 32.
Prohibited are raw fibres that originate from production projects with a persistent pattern of
gross violations of the International Labour Organization (ILO) core labour norms and/or
of animal welfare principles (including Mulesing) and/or land grabbing.
Receiving & validating Scope Certificates and Transaction Certificates for incoming raw
fibres is of utmost importance to verify the organic status of raw materials purchased.
In a GOTS certified entity, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation & appropriate
transportation documentation are some other steps that need to be documented.
For the processed organic material sold by GOTS certified entities the Transaction
Certificate shall include information about quality parameters for micronaire & fibre
length.
 ELEMENTS OF INSPECTION
2ND PROCESSING STAGE (SPINNING)
Since undyed organic and conventional yarns look the same, separation
and identification of organic bales, tops, sliver, yarns, etc. is of utmost
importance in storage and on the shopfloor. Colour coding of cans and
bobbins can help, besides separate storage facilities. Training and
awareness of workers is of essential importance here again.
Spinners must purchase GOTS certified raw materials and maintain
records of quantities purchased.
Once more, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, and
appropriate transportation documentation are some other steps that
should be undertaken.
Any paraffin products used must be fully refined with a limited value for
residual oil of 0.5%. Machine oils coming in touch with organic yarns
must be heavy metal-free. Synthetic fibres, which are to be dissolved at a
later processing stage, are not allowed to be used.
For the processed organic yarns sold by GOTS certified entities, the
Transaction Certificates shall include information about quality
parameters like micronaire and fibre length.
 ELEMENTS OF INSPECTION
3RD PROCESSING STAGE (WEAVING & KNITTING)
Natural sizing agents should be used. Limited usage of
synthetic sizing agents is permitted as well.
Machine oils coming in touch with organic yarns must be
heavy metal-free.
Separation and identification (organic and conventional)
yarns, warp beams, fabric rolls etc. must be ensured in
storage and on the shop floor.
Training and awareness of workers is crucial here, again.
Fabric processors must purchase GOTS certified yarns and
maintain records of quantities purchased.
Wastage, volume reconciliation and transportation
documentation shall be verified during an onsite audit.
 ELEMENTS OF INSPECTION
4TH PROCESSING STAGE (WET PROCESSING)

As other processes explained above, separation and identification

of organic yarns, fabrics, garments, etc. is still important. Once
more, training and awareness of workers is crucial.

Buying GOTS certified raw materials, maintaining records of

quantities, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation,
appropriate transportation documentation, etc. are important yet
again.

Due to use of water and chemicals, this section has the highest
level of associated risks and, therefore, very stringent criteria are
applicable here. Chemical inputs used for wet-processing of GOTS
Goods must be approved prior to their use.

To know more about how to get chemical inputs approved, click here.

 ELEMENTS OF INSPECTION
4TH PROCESSING STAGE (WET PROCESSING)
•For sizing, at least 75% of sizing agents should be of natural origin. For pre-
treatment, ammonia treatment, as well as chlorination of wool are prohibited.
•Only oxygen-based bleaches like peroxide, ozone, etc. are allowed.
•For dyeing and printing, there are additional curbs on allergenic dyes,
carcinogenic and suspected carcinogenic colourants, as well as dyes containing
heavy metal.
•To avoid exploitation of natural resources, the use of natural dyes and
auxiliaries that are derived from a threatened species listed on the Red List of
the IUCN is also prohibited.
•For printing, there are limits for inputs containing permanent Adsorbable
Organic Halides (AOX). Additionally, printing methods using aromatic solvents,
phthalates or chlorinated plastics (e.g. PVC) are prohibited.
•For finishing, the use of synthetic inputs is forbidden for certain treatments.
•These include anti-microbial, coating, filling, stiffening, lustring, matting and
weighting.
•At the same time, finishing methods like sand blasting, which are considered
harmful to workers, are prohibited.
 ELEMENTS OF INSPECTION
4TH PROCESSING STAGE (WET PROCESSING)
Wastewater Treatment by Wet Processing Units
Wastewater from all wet-processing units is treated in an internal
or external functional Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP).
Since laws vary around the world, the most stringent legal
requirement – whether local laws or GOTS criteria – is
applicable.
The criteria include pH, temperature, total organic content,
biological oxygen demand, chemical oxygen demand, colour
removal, etc.
The extent of treatment required for the wastewater and sludge
depends upon types of inputs being used and is evaluated by the
Approved Certifiers.
Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages
under GOTS certification.
 ELEMENTS OF INSPECTION
5TH PROCESSING STAGE (MANUFACTURING)
Manufacturing processes use a variety of accessories for functionality and/or
fashion requirements. They must meet stringent criteria for residue of hazardous
substances, following the following Restricted Substances List (RSL).
(To learn more about how to get accessories approved, see page How to Get Additives Approved.
Alternatively, accessories certified to Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex are acceptable.)
Machine oils coming in touch with organic textiles must be heavy metal-free.
Separation and identification of organic products is essential.
Buying GOTS certified raw materials, maintaining records of quantities,
consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, transportation documentation,
etc. are necessary.
The Certified Weight shall be the weight of GOTS certified raw materials used in
the final product, after reducing wastage.
Clear computation of weight of accessories and additional fibres must be
available for the purpose of volume reconciliation and Transaction Certificates.
For on-product labelling, it is possible to use the licence number of the
manufacturer or of the buyer.
In all cases, the certified entity applying the GOTS Label shall have the labelling
approved by their certification body.
 ELEMENTS OF INSPECTION
6TH PROCESSING STAGE (TRADING)
Traders having a turnover of more than 20.000 Euro per year from GOTS Goods must
become certified. Legal ownership of the goods is considered the decisive factor regardless
of whether the goods are physically received or not.
Traders that are not obliged to become certified, because their annual turnover with GOTS
Goods is less than 20.000 Euro, must register with an Approved Certifier. In this context,
the certified status of their supplier and the correct labelling of the GOTS Goods (with
licence number and certifier's reference of the supplier) should be verified. As soon as their
turnover exceeds 20.000 Euro, they shall inform the Approved Certifier and are under
obligation of certification.
Retailers do not need to become certified but may voluntarily choose to become certified.
They shall get their own licence number, which can be used uniformly for all product
groups, irrespective of the supplier’s licence number. Besides, they will be visible to their
customers on the Certified Suppliers Database.
Furthermore, some relaxations are available for retail groups for Transaction Certificates.
Volume reconciliation and Transaction Certificates remain the most important verification
step in terms of inspection.
It is important to note that even though the number of pieces take centre stage at the
trading / retail steps, Transaction Certificate (TCs) still use the weight of the product as the
primary indicator for volume reconciliation. Information about the quantity of pieces and
the product description is included in the TCs.
 ELEMENT OF INSPECTION
ECOLOGICAL AND SOCIAL CRITERIA
To build a truly sustainable textile industry, GOTS evaluates the 
processing and manufacturing of textiles on the basis of both,
environmental and social criteria.
This means assessing everything from the chemical inputs being
used to the ethical treatment of workers. To become GOTS certified
, it is mandatory to meet all of the criteria.
The GOTS Standard consists solely of mandatory criteria. In
addition the GOTS Manual provides interpretations and
recommendations for implementation.
The standard covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging,
labelling, trading and distribution of all textiles made from at least
70% certified organic fibres.
There are two GOTS label-grades: 'organic' requiring a minimum
of 95% organic fibres and 'made with organic materials' requiring
at least 70% organic fibres