Advanced knitted fabric

manufacturing

Dereje Berihun
• Introduction to knitting:
the fundamental concepts
principles of knitting and knitting
machineries
classification,
structures,
properties and
construction methods
 Introduction to knitting:
The fundamental concepts
• Knitting is a method and process by which yarn is
manipulated to create a fabric by inter-looping yarns that is
used in many types of garments. Knitting may be done by
hand or by machine. Knitting creates stitches: loops of yarn
in a row, either flat or in the round (tubular).
• The concept of knitting for converting yarn in to
fabric/garment was visualized long back may be about 3000
years ago and the same was implemented by some curious
and innovative minds using two sticks or needles. Such
technique is of course known as hand knitting but there is no
record of the name of the inventor of knitting. Hand knitting
is a slow process and still in practice.
 Cont.
• William Lee started to develop a frame around 1561 for
continuing knitting process at a faster rate using a large
number of needles. At the end of 3 years’ excessive study,
patience and toil, Lee was enabled to make a course or
knit upon the frame and that too at a speed of 600 loops
per minute using worsted yarns. The frame was further
perfected and speed of loop formation was increased
before its commercial appearance in 1589.
• Since then modifications on the knitting frame have been
continued for making better to better machine for
producing quality knitted fabrics at much higher speeds.
 Advantages of knitting

• Fabric can be produced from minimum number of yarns, even only

one yarn.
• Loop size can be varied to a wide extent and that too very easily.
• During knitting, loops can be transferred from one needle to other.
• The extensibility and stability of the knitted fabric can be
engineered.
• The desired porosity or compactness of the fabric can be achieved
easily.
• Shaping can be done at the time of knitting on the resultant fabric.
• Yarns generally unsuitable for knitting can be introduced in the
fabric as in-lay.
• Loop structures are easily distorted under tension in application,
which imparts more freedom of movement and comfort of the
wearer.
 Advantage

• Fabric with single face, double face, open-work and surface

interest can be knitted according to requirement.
• The number of yarns to be knitted in the same fabric can be
varied by selection.
• The total number of needles for loop formation can be varied
from knitting cycle to cycle.
• Yarn can easily flow from one loop to another under tension.
• Wastage of yarn during conversion of yarn in to fabric by
knitting is negligible.
• Knitting can produce fabrics which are very much suitable for
intimate wears as well as for technical applications.
 Introduction to knitting:
Principles of knitting
• Depending upon the direction of movement of yarn
during loop formation with relation to the direction of
fabric formation, knitting technique is classified as warp
knitting and weft knitting.

Directions of threads in knitted fabrics

 Principles-Cont.
• Weft knitting machines produce four basic knitted structures such

as plain, rib, interlock and purl. Plain structure is produced in

single jersey machine whereas the other three are produced in

double jersey machines.

• These basic structures are composed of face loops and back

loops. In addition, different derivatives of those basic structures

are also produced by introducing tucking and floating. Such

tucking and floating are possible due to individual needle

selection. Pattern wheel, multiple cam track, jacquard, etc., are

generally used for needle selection.

 Principles-Classifications
• Knitting is primarily classified as weft knitting and warp knitting.
This classification is based on the direction of movement of yarn
with respect to the direction of fabric formation. If the yarns run in
the width or crosswise direction with reference to the direction of
fabric formation during knitting, then the process of knitting is
called weft knitting. The yarns in the knitted structure are just like
weft yarns in woven fabrics. Such structures are called weft-knitted
fabrics or jersey fabrics, and the machines in which such structures
are produced are called weft knitting machines.
• In case the yarns run in length direction, i.e. the direction of fabric
formation during knitting, the process is called warp knitting. The
yarns inside the knitted fabrics are just like the warp yarns in
woven fabrics. Such knitted fabrics are called warp knitted fabrics,
and the machine which produces such fabric is known as warp
knitting machine.
Weft knitting Warp Knitting
 Classifications-Weft knitting

• Weft knitting machines are classified in various ways. The main

basis of classification is the needle bed. Needle bed is the

platform or frame on which needles are arranged at regular

pattern. There are grooves or cuts at regular interval to

accommodate the individual needles so that those can move up

and down or to and fro along the needle axis for loop formation

but restricted to move laterally. The number of needle bed in a

machine may be one or two and accordingly, the machines are

called either single bed (single jersey) or double bed (double

jersey in UK and double knit in USA) machines.

 Classifications-Weft knitting

• Further, the shape of the bed may be flat or circular. So

according to the shape of the bed, knitting machine may be
either flat bed machine or circular bed machine. Thus
combining the number and shape of the bed, a total
combination of four types of machines is possible. Flat single
bed machines are generally horizontal or slightly angled. But
the two beds in flat machines are generally inclined making an
angle of about 90° at the meeting point.
 Classifications-Weft knitting
• The single circular bed is cylindrical and vertical. But circular
double beds are of two types – (a) two cylinders facing each
other, or (b) dial and cylinder type, i.e. cylinder at the bottom
and dial (a circular plate) at the top. The dial and cylinder type
machines are more common in commercial uses.
• The same machines may be classified as hand-driven machine
and power-driven machine according to the nature of drive
(mainly applicable to flat bed machine).
• The types of structure produced in different machines are
different. So machines may be classified according to the basic
knitted structures they produce. The four basic weft-knitted
structures are (a) plain, (b) rib, (c) interlock and (d) purl. The
plain structure is made in single jersey / bed machine whereas
the other three are made in double jersey / bed machine.
 Classifications-Weft knitting

Sometimes different design elements/devices are fitted in knitting

machine and then those machines are given names according to the
element/ device attached to the machine. For example such machines
are

(a) knitting machine with pattern wheel

(b) knitting machine with jacquard

(c) knitting machine with multiple cam track arrangement

(d) knitting machine with intarsia facility

(e) knitting machine with CAD and CAM.

 Classifications-Weft knitting
• Sometimes, some machine is developed and used to produce
some special end product, and accordingly some specific name is
given to that machine, i.e. socks knitting machine, terry knitting
machine, sliver knitting machine, etc.
• Knitting machine can produce continuous fabric like weaving or
can make garment with proper shaping. On the basis of the
product, machines may be classified as fabric length machine or
garment length machine.
• Garment length machines are more complicated and less
productive.
• There is another type of weft knitting machine according to shape
of the needle bed equipped with bearded needles called straight
bar frame. It has much similarity in appearance with Lee’s
original hand frame knitting machine. This machine is mainly
used for fashioning.
 Classifications-Warp knitting

• Based on the features of warp knitting, the machines

available are classified into two categories: Tricot and
Raschel. Both Tricot and Raschel may be made with
either single needle bar or double needle bar.
 Base weft knit structures and properties
Property Plain 1x1 Rib 1x1 Purl Interlock
Appearance Different in face Same on both Same on both Same on both
and back, V- sides, like sides like face sides like face
shapes in face face of plain of plain of plain
and arcs on
back
Extensibility
Lengthwise Moderate (10-2- Moderate Very high Moderate
%)
Widthwise High (30-50%) Very high High Moderate
(>50&)
Area Moderate-high High High Moderate
Thickness and Thicker and Much thicker Much thicker Very much
warmth warmer than and warmer and warmer thicker and
Plain woven than plain than plain warmer than
fabric from the plain
same yarn
Unroving Either ends Only from Either ends Only from
end knitted end knitted
last last
Curling Tendency to No tendency No tendency No tendency
curl to curl to curl to curl
End-uses Inner garments, Outerwear, Children’s Underwear,
stockings, T- socks, clothing, trouser suits,
shirts, dresses, knitwear, knitwear, shirts, dresses,
base fabric for under-wear, heavy sportswear
coating collars, outerwear
cuffs,& waist
bands in
different
garments
• Assignment
 1. Make the graphical chain classification of the weft knitting
machines. 2. Write a page of comparison of weft and warp knitting.
(submit during the next class)
 Article review on (in 1 month)
Mechanics of fabric formation and analysis of knitted fabric
geometry
3D knit wear and spacer fabrics
Use of AI and machine learning techniques in knitting
Special knitted structures with associated machines and
properties
Advanced applications of knitted fabrics
 Till next class

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