Function of Jigger Dyeing Machine:

A Jig Dyeing machine, is an efficient dyeing technique. It is also known by the name of
jigger. Jig Dyeing machine processes fabrics in open width to avoid creasing problems in
fabric dyeing. The Jig Dyeing machine operates by transferring the fabric back and forth.
This happens from roller to roller via the medium of a dye bath, that is located at the base
of the machine. As soon as the second roller gets full, the direction of movement of fabric
can be reversed. In Jig dyeing, the duration of the process is measured on the basis of the
number of passages or ends of the fabric passing through the dye bath from roller to roller.
The end in dyeing parlance is known as the passing of fabric through a dye liquor from
one roller to the other one.
CONTINUOUS DYEING
In continuous dyeing fabrics are bleached, (mercerized), dyed and washed in open width
form on ‘ranges’, which are long, big machines that need to be threaded up with very
long pieces of fabric – It is possible to create modular mega-machines which combine
bleaching, mercerizing, washing, drying, dyeing, fixing, washing and drying into a single
machine several hundred meters long.

Normally dyeing, fixation, wash-off and drying are carried out in a single machine that is
around 150 meters long.

The reason for emphasizing the size of the machine is because the fabric is ‘festooned’ in
the machine – as in the example below – and, even though the best machines can be
extremely efficient, it can take up to 500 m to even thread up the dyeing machine. In
order to avoid permanent creasing the fabrics need to be run under a certain amount of
tension and this means that unless very sophisticated controls are employed continuous
dyeing is only applicable to rigid woven fabrics.
The dyes are applied using a mangle: fabric is dipped in a trough of dye liquor and
fixation chemicals and mangled (this sometimes a two stage process with dyes applied in
one trough and chemicals applied separately – the eliminates the risk of alkali rendering
the dye non-reactive before application to the fabric). The fabric is usually dried and the
dyes are fixed by either the application of steam or dry heat – the diagram below gives a
schematic view of the pad trough and mangle arrangement.
In order to get good dye fixation in the limited time the fabric has in either a steamer or
thermofix unit it is often necessary to add humectants (chemicals that attract moisture), such as
urea, to the dye liquor in addition to the alkali used for dye fixation. Urea in effluent is a major
problem because it is difficult to remediate (it requires specific denitrification techniques) and if
discharged to the environment it acts as unwanted fertilizer and can cause damaging algal
blooms.
Salt and/or thickeners are sometimes added to the dye liquors to enhance dye uptake from the
pad trough. Salt is an environmental challenge and thickeners (such as alginates) can add
considerably to the BOD/COD content of effluent.
WASH OFF
The post-bleach and post-dye wash offs can be either a hugely water intensive processes or
incredibly efficient depending on the type of machinery used.
Modern ‘counter-flow’ wash ranges are very impressive in terms of water consumption – the
concept is that ‘dirty’ fabric enters the machine at one end and clean water enters the machine at
the other. Fabric moves from the front to the back of the machine and gets progressively cleaner
and water moves from the back of the machine and gets progressively dirtier.
By the time the fabric exits the machine it is being washed in clean water and by the time the
water exits the machine it is quite contaminated but still capable of removing a large proportion
of the unfixed dyes and fixation chemicals from the fabric.
Older wash ranges with discrete, sequential wash baths can be very inefficient and use very large
amounts of water.
 Fabric in-feed
Open width fabric must be processed under uniform tension, before entering the padder
and during take-up on the beam.
Synchronized cloth guidance systems must be used
Incorrect tension or inadequate cloth guidance, causes

 Creases or twists in the fabric

 Piece-to-piece shade variation
 Side-centre shade variation
 Interruptions in production
 Fabric requirements after pre-treatment
Uniform weave (no tight or dense selvedge’s, consistent yarn density)
 Dry
 Good absorbency
 Neutral reaction (pH 6 – 7)
 Fabric conditioning before dyeing (temperature, moisture content)
 Free from size,, bleaching chemicals,, earth metals & salts
(Fe, Ca, Mg)
Padder
Pad roll shore hardness: 70 - 80°woven
fabric, 50 - 60°knitgoods Finishing Padders

 Side-to-side pressure control, uniform

nip across the width (Küsters Swimming
Roll or Benninger Bicoflex system)

 Small volume pad trough with liquor

level control (3 - 5 min turnover)
 Even dye liquor distribution across the
width
 Speed and temperature control
 synchronized fabric guidance - in feed /
take up Pressure Padders The Dyeing Padders
 Trough content
The volume in the pad trough should be relatively small (20 – 50
litres) and automatically controlled at a constant level throughout the
run.

Pad bath level variations result in a shade differences caused by

variations in immersion time & pick up

The pad liquor turnover time should be as fast as possible (less than
5 minutes).
The pad liquor should be distributed uniformly across the full
width of the padder through a perforated tube
In through example 1 and example 3, because the time of fabric diving is long, the fabric
becomes wet. The way of diving is a distance from the first point of fabric touching bath to
squeezing padders.
1. Depending on the hydrofility of fabric, the time of diving at each 2-4 is to be
considered.
2. The passing speed changes 25-60 minutes depending on the volume, weight and
hydrofility of fabric.

Pick up, immersion time, speed

Pick up
Must be uniform across the width and consistent from batch to batch (60 – 80% for CEL, 45
– 55% for PES/CEL)
Pick-up depends upon:
 Pad pressure and speed (fabric penetration, wetting out)
 Dye level in the trough (dip to nip time)
 Dye bath chemicals (penetration accelerant)
 Fabric (fiber and construction
Immersion time
Should be 1 – 2 s for cotton and 2 – 4 s for viscose
and tencel.
Speed
Must be constant throughout the run –
No stoppages
Padding temperature

Pad bath temperature is critical and must be within the specification.

Pad bath temperature influences the behaviour of the dyes:
 Substantivity (reactive dyes)
 Bath stability (hydrolysis of reactive dyes)
 Dye fixation rate
 Dispersion stability (vat and disperse dyes)

Pad bath temperature is influenced by:

 Friction on the pad rolls
 Dissolving/dispersing the dyes at too high temperature
 Local working conditions (hot climates)
 Too high fabric temperature
 Nip rolls
Nip rolls must be clean and within hardness specification of 70 - 80°shore for woven and 50 -
60°shore for knitted fabric.

The covering of both bowls must be of uniform hardness to prevent two sided problems.

 Damage to the nip rolls results in poor appearance of the dyed fabric and pick-up variations
(silicate build up, age deterioration)

Küsters Swimming Roll

Double swimming roll: Single swimming roll:
BIICOFLEX® roll

The individual internal pressure zone

adjustment as well as the retracting
cushions for avoiding selvedge
pressing ensure a uniform
application, even with changing
fabric width.
Swelling or absorption water fixed by H bonds:
~ 4 - 6%. Fibres moisture regain.
Very difficult to remove (over drying)
Swelling or absorption water on the amorphous
regions of the fibre:
~ 15%. Difficult to remove (drying)
Surface and capillary water:
~ 25% retained on the fabric surface by cohesive forces.
Removable by mechanical means (IR drying)
~ 25% retained by adhesive forces between the individual
fibres (capillary water).
Can be partly removed by mechanical means.
Migration
 During the intermediate drying phase, dye molecules tend to diffuse with water molecules
as they migrate from the wetter towards the drier parts of the fabric
 Dye molecules continue to migrate as long as water molecules diffuse from the surface of
the fabric. Migration stops when the moisture content of the fabric has dropped below 30%

 High affinity dyes migrate slower but unfortunately lead to poor penetration, tailing and
washing-off problems !!

Consequences of too high migration

Horizontal migration on the fabric surface is responsible for unlevel dyeing & side-centre
shade variation
Vertical migration through the fabric is responsible for frosting &face-back shade variation

How to control dye migration

Lower pick-up
Skying between padding and drying
Addition of electrolyte to increase dye affinity (but risk of tailing)
Infra-red pre-drying (most important)
Well balanced air flow in the dryer
Use of a migration inhibitor
Better dye selection
•Infra-red drying system: Invisible IR radiation
from electromagnetic wave radiation can be used
for drying. In terms of drying technology, the most
significant spectral range is 700-3000 nm in which
particles are displaced more rapid by, (random
vibrations) thus warming the product.

Pre dryers in continuous dyeing and finishing

processes use infra-red energy because the drying
is uniform and migration of chemicals is
minimized. Infra-red drying during application of
coating is also very common. Since infra-red
waves travel in a straight line, the material
must be in the path of the waves in order to
absorb the energy and heat up. Therefore the
density of that material being dried affects the
efficiency or IR drying. Sometimes reflectors are
used to improve it.
 Special Features of Pad Batch Dyeing Process:

Significant cost and waste reduction as compared to other conventional dyeing processes.

Excellent wet fastness properties.

A uniform dye quality is achieved with even color absorbency and color fastness.

As compared to rope dyeing, Pad batch dyeing produces much lower defect levels

In pad batch dyeing, qualities like high shade reliability and repeatability are common.
This is because of high reactivity dyes with rapid fixation rate and stability.

Pad-batch process (semi-

continuous)
Pad-roll process (semi-
continuous)
Pad-jig process (semi-
continuous)
Process that can be done on woven dyeing machine
•Reactive dyeing
•Pad-batch dyeing
•Reduction Dyeing
•Stripping
•Vat Development/ Vat Dyeing
•Hot and Cold Washing
2.Padding Section
•Pad Steam
•Padders use for padding.
•Wet Chemical Pad
•The pressure of the padders are 1.5 - 2 bar.
Main Sections of the Machine •Two types of pressure used in Kuster padders,
hydraulic and pneumatic.
•The central pressure is hydraulic and side
1.Inlet Section
Inlet section consist of Following Parts pressure is pneumatic.
•We can adjust the pressure of the padders, to
•Plaiter/batcher
•Tensioner rollers prevent the listing problem.
•Liquor is picked in the fabric; afterwards the
•Free guide roller
•Stationary rollers excessive liquor is squeezed out by means of
padders at predetermined pick-up% set by
applying pressure on the padders.
3.Kuster padder
Uniform squeezing pressure over the entire working width independent of fabric
width (no selvedge pressure). No side-to-center shading, due to smooth treatment of
the selvedges.
Advantages:
•Uniform liquor application over the whole fabric width.
•Different liquor application in the range of side-center-side zone is possible.
•Attractive price.
•Easily operation
•Reliable and economical padder

4.Steamer
Here in steamer temperature required for the fixation is given to the fabric. This
temperature is achieved by saturated steam. The purpose of using saturated steam is that
the chemicals used for developing should not dry on the surface of fabric preventing
fabric from stains. Here roof temperature is given to avoid water dropping that causes
spotty dyeing. Here water is not given at the entry of steamer because to prevent
developing chemicals that just applied before going into steamer so water lock is given
at the end of steamer.
 Finishing chemical

°c)
5 0
e( 1
r
Cu
Steaming &
Thermofix Dyeing and printing
(102°c-160°c)
Pad-dry Reactive/vat/sulphur/
disperse

Cu
re(
15
0 °c)

Pigment
Pad-Dry-Pad-Chemical-Steam( Reactive- medium strength)

Pad-Dry-Pad-Steam Process in continuous

dyeing process is the standard process in steam
dyeing. It is generally suggested for long meters
of fabric. It is suitable for fabric more then 500
meters it has a good stability of bath.
Additionally, it is appropriate for bright color. It
has more control parameters. It is necessary to
obtain suitable condition. Pad-Dry-Pad-Steam
process is unproductive for short time lots.

Process flow
Padding dye →Drying →Padding alkali liquor →Steaming fixation
→Washing →Soaping→ Washing →Drying
Condition
Temperature 20 – 25℃
Pick-up 60 – 80 %
Steaming 102 – 105 ℃
Time 40 – 90sec
Process Possible applications
Pad-dry-pad -steam(102-110°C) Medium strength reactive dyes and
Pad-dry-thermofix (160-190°C) Low strength reactive dyes
Cold pad-batch (room temperature) High strength reactive dyes
Pad-dry –thermosol (200-230°C) For disperse dyeing
Pad-dry-curing For pigment dyeing & printing, cross linking
finishing agent
Pad-dry-steam Vat and reactive dye( when color amount is
too high)
Pad-dry(E-control) Stenter machine where drying with 25%
humidity
Pad-steam •Vat, sulphur
•After cold pad batch of reactive dyeing it can
be done.
•Reduction clearing, stripping
Pad-(pad)-steam •Vat and reactive dyes (when alkali is needed)

Pad-dry –pad-develop For naphthol dyeing

•Pad1= Naphtholate
•Pad2=Base
Pad –dry-pad- Steam method (Continuous method) of reactive dye.
Ans.
Recipe: (For medium shade)
Dye stuff        ---- 10 – 20 gm/L
Soda Ash        ---- 5 – 10 gm/L
Common salt ---- 60 – 80 gm/L
Urea                ---- 150 gm/L
Na – Alginate ---- Little amount.
Sequence of operation:

Procedure:
In this method fabric is dyed in large scale. Two bowls are used here. In the first, Padding
is done on the fabric with urea & dye solution at 60ᵒC – 80ᵒC temperature. Urea is used to
dissolve the dye stuff and to penetrate into the fabric. Na – Alginate is used as a migration
inhibitor . Then the fabric is passed through the drying chamber & again padding is done
with NaOH at 60ᵒC temperature. Then steaming is done at 100ᵒC – 102ᵒC for 30 – 60
seconds. Then after rinsing & soaping, fabric is washed & dried.
 Pad- (Pad)-Steam Process
Cotton weaved fabric is generally dyed by continue process. The criteria defining which
of Pad-Steam or Pad-Jig is prepared, is the feature of fabric such as the length type. Long
meters heavy mercerize weaved fabric is dyed by the method of Pad-Steam with distance
drying.
Short meters fabric is dyed by the method of Pad-Jig, however the cost must be cared.
Knitting fabric is not dyed by this method.
Dyeing by Pad-Jig methods without any instance drying supplies much more
penetration and suitable. In bath of methods mentioned is prepared according to the
position and feature of machines, but it is not suggested.

Pad-Steam process has more advantages to supply high production due to it is an easy
process. It requires less investment and energy than Pad-Dry-Pad Steam. It has no
possibility of migration. It includes fewer chemicals. It is the continue dyeing process
used in big amount of fabric and viscose fabric. It includes tailing problem and it has limit
to dye choose.
Pad-Steam( Reactive- medium strength/Vat /Sulphur dyes)

Condition
Temperature 60-80 ℃
Pick-up 60 – 80 %
Steaming 102 – 105 ℃
Time 30-40 Sec
Pad-Steam dyeing is a process of continuous dyeing in which the fabric in open width is
padded with dyestuff and is then steamed. Pad steam is an ideal machine for reactive
dyeing of cotton and its blended fabrics. Light, pale and medium shades can be dyed in
this machine. Continuous roller steamer is used for diffusion of reactive, vat, sulphur and
direct dyes into cellulosic fibers in an atmosphere of heat and moisture that is created by
saturated steam injected into the steamer.

Purposes of the machine

•It can be used as a pad batch for reactive dyeing in which batch is left for 12-18 hours
for the completion of the reaction. For time saving the fabric passes through the steamer
for 1 minute and the reaction is completed.
•It can also be used for reduction clearance (RC) in which we treat PC fabric with
caustic and sodium hydrosulphide to remove the disperse dye from cotton.
•Stripping of the fabric can also be done on this machine that is, color can be removed
completely by adding higher amount of caustic and sodium hydrosulphide.
•It can be used for the development of Vat dyes.
•The dyed fabric can be washed in this machine.
 Pad-Dry-Steam Process

Firstly, right prep operations must be done to realize good

dyeing.
In Pad-Dry Steam Process, the satiation of color is high.
The possibility of color difference and tailing is low. It
does not include salt. It is more advantages than Pad-Dry-
Pad-Steam process.
If fewer chemicals are wanted to be used and migration
problem is faced, this process is prepared. It has the risk
of dropping water. The adjustment of machine is too
difficult because steaming and hot drying is close.
Pad-Dry (E-Control) Process

E-Control process is improved by the cooperation of Monforts Company.

It is economical and with using of chemicals. It is rapid and new process realizing
immediately washing after dyeing.
In this process steaming does not exist. With the 25% humidity, at the 110-130 ºC
cellulose dyeing and at the 210 ºC polyester dyeing is done. It is a suitable process
for people wanting to pass entirely continues from cold Pad- Batch.

E-Control process is short and includes cost. It is usable with hot air drying and
fixation continue dyeing process it includes less procedures and uses less chemicals
so it has advantages. Its feature of reputability is great. Tailing problem is again
encountered in E-Control process like the other process
Pad-Dry-Thermofix(Reactive dyes-low strength &
disperse dyes)

Condition ℃
Temperature 20 – 25
%
Pick-up 60 – 80 ℃
Steaming 140 – 160 Sec
Time 60 – 90
Note:
• Pre-drying by infrared or hot air gradually until the drying percentage 70%.
• Thermofix and washing off should be carried out immediately when the fabric is dried after
padding dyes.
• Pad-dry-thermofix can have reduced fastness properties, pre-trials are necessary.
Recipe:
Dye stuff         ---- 2% (According to the wt of mtl)
Soda Ash        ---- 1%
Salt                  ---- 8%
Urea                ---- 15%
Na – Alginate ---- Little amount

Procedure:
In this method padding bath continuously dye, alkali, salt, urea and Na – Alginate
liquor. Padding is done in the bath at room temperature. Then fabric is passed through
drying chamber. Then thermo – fixation is done at 160ᵒC for 5 minutes. Finally
rinsing, soaping and again rinsing is done. This method is suitable for moderate
reactive dye. 
Pad-Dry-Thermosol(Pigment)

Condition
Temperature 200 – 220
℃
Pick-up 75 – 90 %
Time 60 – 90 sec
 Cold Pad Batch(Reactive dyes-high strength)

Advantages of Cold Pad batch dyeing

• Low investment cost
• High productivity
• Economical
• High colour yields with high fixation rate
• Free from chloride or sulphate salts
 The Most Important Factors Of Cold Pad Batch Dyeing

Suitable Fabric Humidity

The temperature and humidity of fabric taken dyeing is important. The preparation,
drying operation has to be done and particular temperature value and humidity must be
included. The standard humidity of cellulose type fibers is %7 and the temperature of
fabric 25 ºC. Namely, before dyeing the humidity of % 100 cotton fabric is %7, the
temperature 25 ºC. According to the results of test in company, the value of humidity
%100 cotton fabrics ready for dyeing is
below.

The Temperature Of Fabric Before Cooling Padders

Before dyeing, the temperature of fabric must be in standard temperature. Because, the
temperature resulted from fabric will increase the temperature of dye solution, before and
after dyeing the temperature will increase and this will tailing problem.

The Temperature Of Fabric

Before Trough Entrance In the
increase of temperature in
summers, cooling ventilators can be
used to cool and prevent flies
putting on fabric so it prevents
stain. Cooling Padders Of Pad-Batch Entrance
The Temperature Of Fabric At The End Of Trough After Dyeing
One of the important temperatures of fabric is the temperature of fabric at end of trough. The
changing of temperature caused by bath dye solution and the temperature of manufacture
water affects fabric temperature

The Temperature Of Fabric At The Entrance Of Washing After Waiting

(Rotation)
The all factors likely to affect color after and before dyeing have to be cared and necessary
precautions must be taken. As it is known, in the Pad-Batch Process winded fabric rollers after
dyed must be waited in the conditions of manufacture. (4-24 hours, depending on kind of
fabric and dyestuff) This waiting temperature is vital since our waiting conditions normal
atmosphere conditions; it differs depending on winter and summer over country and region.

In winter, manufacture temperature 0 ºC; in summer it is 35 ºC. So it is inevitable to be

different colors. Therefore, this problem resulted from changing must be not neglected. In
some companies, dyed part is conditioned by condition equipment so the same humidity and
temperature are supplied
The Measurement Of Temperature in Dyeing The Measurement Of PH at the
Trough: Trough Bath
Since the excessive and insufficient temperature resulted
from fabric bath manufacture water and cooling water
and cooling water influence dyeing through, the
temperature in dyeing through is suitable to be fix and
20-25 ºC. In summer at the 35-40 ºC, the temperature of
dyeing through will be excess. Atthe same time, the
temperature coming from manufacture water and fabric
will change. Since this kind of the excess of temperature
exist. It is right to cool dyeing through by cooling
systems and it enables to get good trough temperature.
From the period of the beginning of
dyeing to the end, PH in dyeingbath
must be fix and desired value. If we
realize dye by different PH bath, the
effect of dye on fabric will be
different, that is tailing problem will
occur.
Therefore, PH in trough has to be
checked periodically.
The Cooling
System Dye
Trough
 Cold pad batch dyeing

Cold pad batch dyeing is closely related to continuous dyeing but it only requires the
use of a pad mangle and a means of winding fabric onto a roll .

The fabric is dipped in a trough containing dye and alkali (typically sodium
hydroxide and/or sodium silicate), it is mangled and then wound on a roll without
drying it
The roll is covered in plastic sheets to stop the fabric drying and the batch is slowly
rotated for 12 – 24 hours to allow the dye to fix at room temperature.

There is no need to apply heat* and there is no need to use salt or humectants so it is a
low water dyeing process, it requires little energy and the absence of salt has the dual
benefits of easy dye wash off and no salt in effluent. Additionally there is often a higher %
dye fixation compared to jet dyeing.

*The rate of fixation is dependent on the ambient temperature and in countries where
there are great differences between summer and winter temperatures it is good practice to
carry out dye fixation in a thermo-regulated room.

The contents of the dye pad trough have to be prepared as late as possible before dyeing
commences because, even though the alkali is necessary to fix the reactive dye to the fiber,
it can also permanently deactivate the reactive part of the reactive dye by a process called
hydrolysis – the two reactions (alkali fixing dyes and alkali deactivation dyes) compete in a
reactive dyeing process and dyers must minimize hydrolysis to get good levels of dye
fixation.
The dye solution and alkali solution are typically pumped to the dye trough independently
and mixed immediately prior to dyeing – and there is often the use of a chiller to keep the dye
liquors cool to minimize hydrolysis.

Unlike jet dyeing, it is very difficult to make adjustments to off-shade dyeings so it is

necessary to get cold pad batch dyeing right first time. However because the dye liquor (minus
alkali) is normally prepared well in advance of the dyeing process there is time to conduct
laboratory checks and make adjustments. It is absolutely critical to get a uniform dye
application and high quality adjustable rollers are required to get uniform dye application. Side
to side variation is a common problem with poor quality mangles.

Fabrics have to be bleached and dried prior to dyeing and it is essential that fabrics have
completely uniform moisture content prior to dyeing in order to get uniform dye uptake.
After dyeing the fabrics can be washed off using batch processes (such as a winch or a jet)
or, preferably, on a new efficient counter-flow wash range.

Cold pad batch dyeing can save around 50% of energy and water for the whole process
compared to jet dyeing provided bleaching and post-dye wash off are carried out on efficient
counter-flow wash ranges.
Cold pad batch dyeing can be applied to woven and knitted fabrics (knitted fabrics need
careful low tension processing) and, because there is no abrasive processing, the fabrics are
much smoother than if processed in a jet dyeing machine – this means smooth fabrics can
be obtained without enzyme bio-polishing – resulting in stronger fabrics.

Advantages over jet dyeing:
 Much reduced water consumption
(if counter-flow washing ranges
used)
 Cold process - Much reduced
energy consumption
 Slightly higher dye fixation
 No salt required
o Easier post-dye wash off
o No salt in effluent
 Fabrics are smoother
o No need for biopolish
o Fabrics are stronger than
biopolished equivalent
 Opportunity to do pre-dye checks
to improve right first time.
 Productivity – one machine can
dye far more fabric than a jet
machine
Limitation and disadvantage compared to
jet dyeing
 Requires investment in specialist equipment
 Best results achieved by continuous
bleaching and washing – requiring large
investment
 Difficult to make amendments to off-shade
batches so pressure to get things right first time
 Process not viable unless high quality kit is
used o Side to side variation results in fabric
rejections.
 Requires off-line bleaching and wash off
which makes planning more complex.
 Requires an intermediate drying process
after bleaching.
 Requires fabrics to have completely uniform
moisture and temperature throughout to
achieve optimum results
 Ideally requires a chiller for dyes and
thermo-regulated room for dye fixation
Advantage over continuous dyeing
 No humectants needed, salt should never be used on Lower effluent loading
 Cold dye fixation – energy savings
 Can be applied to small batches of a few hundred meters
 Turn round times between colors is very low
 No energy being wasted when the machine is not dyeing fabric
 Better suited to stretch fabrics and knits because it’s easier to manage tension
control in a small machine

Limitation and disadvantage compared to continuous dyeing

 For large batch sizes the logistics of producing multiple ‘small’ batches using a
3/5 step process bleach-[dry]-dye-wash-[dry] are more complex than a single pass
down a continuous range
 When should Cold Pad batch dyeing should be Promoted?

Cold pad batch dyeing should be promoted over jet dyeing in most instances where it
is a suitable method for the cellulosic fabric in question.
It may not be suitable for some very lightweight, stretch fabrics that can distort easily
and these may be better suited to a horizontal jet dyeing machine.
Cold pad batch may only be the appropriate choice from a water and energy
perspective where efficient counter-flow wash ranges are used for post-bleach and post-
dye wash off.
Where salt in effluent is an issue (unless the receiving waters for treated effluent
discharge can adequately dilute salt) cold pad batch dyeing should be the method of
choice.
Some jet dye mills can remove salt from effluent using reverse osmosis and vacuum
distillation but this is incredibly energy intensive.
It should be ensured that dyers have good quality equipment (and carry out weekly
pad mangle checks) and have chillers for dye liquors and thermo regulated rooms for
dye fixation where appropriate.
Finally it should be noted that fabrics produced by cold pad batch are smooth and
strong but they are susceptible to surfacing on consumer washing and tumbling if poor
quality, hairy yarns are used. If low quality yarns are used and require biopolishing
Continuous PAD-STEAM process
This example shows a small PAD-STEAM dyeing range. The advantages of the
continuous dyeing process and the flexibility of a small size range are here combined!

Possible applications
􀁎 PAD-STEAM process for vat and reactive dyestuff (PAD-DRY is carried
out in a separate range)
􀁎 1-bath (all in) PAD-STEAM process with sulfur dyestuff (cotton)
􀁎 2-bath (wet/wet) PAD-STEAM process vat dyestuff (cotton)
􀁎 1-bath (all-in) PAD-STEAM process with reactive dyestuff (cotton)
􀁎 2-bath (wet/wet) process with direct dyestuff (cotton)

Continuous PAD-DRY and PADSTEAM

process
The range is separated into a PADDRY and a PAD-STEAM part. Both parts can run
separately or in line.
The NW-EXTRACTA washing section can run separately as well. This range is
optionally equipped with a winding station for COLD PAD BATCH dyeing
Possible applications
􀁎 PAD-DRY/PAD-STEAM process with reactive or vat dyestuff (cotton)
􀁎 PAD-THERMOSOL/PAD-STEAM process with reactive and disperse dyestuff
(cotton/polyester)
􀁎 PAD-THERMOSOL/PAD-STEAM process with vat and disperse dyestuff
(cotton/polyester)
􀁎 PAD-DRY/THERMOFIX process with reactive dyestuff (cotton)
􀁎 PAD-DRY/PAD-DEVELOP process with naphtol dyestuff (cotton)
􀁎 COLD PAD BATCH dyeing process with reactive dyestuff (cotton)
 10. Steam conditioning unit
Dye steamer
1.Horizontal or
vertical fabric entry
with heated lips and
exhaust fan 5 Top rollers individually driven by AC-motors

3. Large roller diameter (193 mm)

7. Roof heating

9.fresh
water

8 Water seal
with small
liquor content
4. Lifetime lubricated 12 Automatic cleaning system (option)
bearings
2. Section with 25 m fabric content
11. Probe to measure the steam condition 6 Load cell to measure fabric tension
Steam Fixation: Process requirements
Equilibrium setting up time
An air free atmosphere of saturated steam
Sufficient steam pressure and supply
Measurement of wet & dry bulb temperatures
Prevention of condensation drops ( heating of steamer entrance & roof)
Fabric cooling before padding
Chemical pad recipe and pick up
Fabric tension and steaming time
Water seal

Air free atmosphere

The fixation of reactive dyes and the reduction of vat dyes is carried out in a steamer with an
air free atmosphere of saturated steam.
The dry bulb temperature, is the temperature of the atmosphere inside the steamer. It is
determined by the temperature of the steam. At high altitude the temperature of the steam
decreases.
t °C = 100 – 3.2 x h (h = altitude in km)
The wet bulb temperature, is the temperature reached by the fabric inside the steamer. This
temperature is effectively the fixation temperature and depends not only on the temperature of
the steam, but also the moisture content.
5.Washer
Washing is carried out in order to remove unfixed dyes. After steamer fabric flows from 7 to
8 washers. Most commonly first to four washers are used for washing of salt or chemicals
which are being applied in trough of pad steamer. In 5th, 6th washer, oxidation is done if
required. If oxidation is not required then soaping is done in 5th, 6th washers. Neutralization
is done in 7th washer by using acetic acid. There are 8 chambers counter flow system is used.
The chambers are used for number of process a/c to the requirement of dyes by showering of
different type of chemicals
6.Dryers
In the last of the pad steam machine, there are three groups of drying cylinder for dry
the fabric. Each group has 12 hot cylinders, but last one has 10 hot and 2 cool
cylinders. All the cylinders are Teflon coated. Their purpose is to remove water
molecules from fabric.
7. Batcher
The fabric from drying cylinders passes through some tension rolls and also from anti-
static rods which absorbs the charge from the fabric. This rod has 5 KV voltages and
1800-18000A of current after passing through this fabric is winded on the batcher.
Infrared pre-drying
Removal of as much as 50% of the water from the
padded fabric in the absence of strong air currents and Hotflue Driers
fabric to metal contact, which accelerate dye migration.  Equilibrium setting up time
Requirements of an infrared pre-drier  Uniform air distribution
 Gas or electrically heated  Temperature control
 Equilibrium setting up time  Uniform fabric tension to prevent
 Temperature/capacity adjusted depending upon creasing
weight of fabric  Graduated temperature between the
 Moisture content of fabric after pre-drying hot flue chambers
 Setting of protective shields during downtime  Drying time – no over drying
 Cleaning of guide rollers  Cooling down of fabric after drying
Cylinder driers
Graduated temperature control: Prevents fabric over drying
Sufficient steam pressure and supply: Prevent condensation in the cylinders
 Cylinders must be properly aligned, well balanced and clean
Fabric cooling after drying
Cylinders of smaller diameter, are used for pre-drying, compared to final drying, to
control migration. Shorter contact distance
 Hotflue Driers

Cylinder driers
Infrared pre-drying
 Sized yarn
Curing ? Steaming ?Drying ?
Dyed knitted
t er fabric
e n
r/st

RF
ry e

/In
a t d
Fl

fra
-re
RF Dyed yarn

d
RF/Infra-red
Curing
Drying Hot fl
ue /drum
dryer Dyed woven
r fabric
le
r ol
d RF
a te
/ He
m
ea Flat dryer/stenter Dyed
St
Calendaring Garments
Steam/Heated roller
Heat setting

Perforated Sanforizing/compating
drum dryer
Air suction to remove moisture
Air passing through fabric to
outside
 Tailing and listing

Tailing is shade variation along the length of the fabric and is determined by a series of
comparisons of the color from the first meter to the last, checked and measured during the
dyeing process. For example, if 10000 m of fabric is to be dyed in a continuous dyeing range,
the dyeing is started and the shade being matched is sampled and agreed and this sampling is
continued up to the end of the 10 000 m at intervals. These intervals depend on past history of
the dyes and fabric being dyed. The term ‘ending’ has also been used as well as listing.

Listing is shade variation across the width of the fabric and it is also checked during
dyeing. Variation can be from side-to-side or side-to-centre. When the fabric runs in open
width this parameter should not be ignored and must be checked in a similar manner as the
tailing. When dyeing in jet machines where the fabric is in a rope form, listing is rarely a
dyeing machine problem.

Testing staff should be made aware of the phenomena of thermo chromic effects as certain
chromophores can exhibit vast temporary color changes. The effect of moisture on shade
should be considered especially when urgent orders are being processed. Shade variations can
occur in finishing but these effects should have been checked in the laboratory.
General factors influencing listing and tailing
An assumption has to be made that for large dyeing orders the fabric is fully suitable
for purpose and has consistent properties. Factors influencing tailing and listing
include variation in yarn count, yarn twist, fabric density and width GSM of the
grey fabric. Sizing agents should be water soluble. Uneven size application affects
the degree of desizing.

Tailing and listing problems can be caused by two controlling factors, namely:
•Equipment parameter changes or variations or
•Eye properties.
Dyeing properties and the effect on
tailing and listing
Different dyes can have vastly different dyeing properties and it is of paramount concern
that the dye manufacturers’ recommendations be followed. Dyes that have been matched
with other dyes are more likely to give similar dyeing characteristics. Colors have different
substantivity and affinities, often at different temperatures and in the presence of added
electrolytes commonly used in dyeing procedures. For example, a mixture of three dyes in
a padding bath might have differing substantivities. If the pad bath is large or the liquor
feed control poor and the machine is running more slowly because of a heavy fabric, one of
the dyes might be removed from the bath more quickly – hence the start of a tailing
situation. This problem was given a name in the very early days of dyeing, the problem of
‘strike’.
It is essential that good records of dyeing problems be kept so that certain mixtures of dyes
for certain fabrics can be avoided if possible or special care taken.

The dye manufacturers have spent time and money on developing efficient dyeing systems
and their efforts should be used to create a viable and prosperous industry.
Shade evaluation and quantifying listing and tailing

Visual assessment is carried out in a standard light bo x. For listing, width-wise fabric
is stitched to accommodate three areas marked as left, centre and right; this article is
then assessed in a standard light box with specified light such as D65, TL84, Inca or
CWF. For tailing, a number of fabric samples are collected at 500 m intervals and
assessed against the customer’s standard in a light box. The number of samples and
intervals vary according to the total length being dyed in bulk.

Spectrophotometric and computer color matching systems can be used instead of the
visual assessment procedure, but this needs to be done against defined standards. The
customer standard is taken as a reference for measurement in a spectrophotometer and
then compared to the production run. All of these factors have different impacts
depending on the fabric, the fiber and the dyeing system. Herein lies the skill of the
colorist.
Equipment control parameters

Correct singeing/desizing: this has a major influence on listing, if singeing or

desizing varies across the width.  Where pad batch processing is used, batching
equipment alignment is very important

•Uneven padder pressure at any stage in desizing, washing, scouring, bleaching, dye
application and washing off can cause variations and thus listing can occur.
• Faulty padder equipment is the most likely cause of listing.
•The individual padder pressures from left, centre and right play a dominant role and
have a direct effect on listing and tailing.
•Padder diameter variation across the width may also producing listing.
• Variation of air of hydraulic pressures can lead to variable padding expression.
• A long run of smaller width fabric will leave an impression across the width on the
padder, which will leave an impression on wider fabric that will show up during
dyeing.

Some companies invest in keeping two dyeing padders operative in one dyeing range
where wider and small width changeover is frequent, one for narrow fabric width
and the second for wider width fabric, in order to avoid any variation caused by the
padder and also to increase the life of the padder
Mercerising: variations in the degree of mercerizing across the width cause listing
and should be controlled. The washing process needs careful control
The drying or dye fixation of fabric must be controlled and even, in order to ensure a
consistent moisture content. A stenter must be fully controlled in terms of temperature
and recycling. Even temperature is needed when there are different temperature zones.
Over- or under-drying can cause listing later in the dyeing process where there is steam
injection for thermosol processes; control is paramount.

A major control problem that is caused by dye properties can be corrected by good
padder design.
Control of washing off: this is vital for both quality and effluent and environmental
considerations. Water flow in each tank must be controlled throughout the production
run; the padder pressures and the condition of the padders in each washing chamber
should regularly be checked. Variation in washing temperature, feeding rate of soap
and neutralizing acid can also account for listing and tailing.

The volume of dye liquor for long runs has to be established and mixing tanks provided
for shade continuity. The padding expressions for the fabric to be padded have to be
decided. The padding trough volume has to be sufficient to stop tailing due to variable
‘strike’ in a bath containing a mixture of dyes of differeing dye properties