Coc 2 Module 2 Epas CBLM Yoyoy

COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING
MATERIAL
Sector:
ELECTRONICS
Qualifications:
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING NC II
Unit of Competency:
SERVICE CONSUMER ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS
Module Title:
SERVICING CONSUMER ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS
Institution:
OLIVEROS COLLEGE INCORPORATED

San Francisco Iriga Ctiy
TABLE OF SERVICE CONSUMER ELECTRONIC N.C. LEVEL : II
CONTENTS PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS CORE MODULE: 2
CONTENTS PAGE NO.
HOW TO USE THIS LEARNING MATERIAL 5
SESSION PLAN 7
INTRODUCTION 13
15
LEARNING OUTCOME #1 - Prepare unit, tools and workplace for installation and service
INTRODUCTION 16
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.1.1 - Work Safety Requirements 17
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.1.2 - Application of 5S 19
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.1.3 - Use of Personal Protective Equipment

and Clothing 20
SELF CHECK 3.1.1

21
LEARNING OUTCOME #2 - Install consumer electronic products and systems
INTRODUCTION 23
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.2.1 - Use and function of tools, equipment and 29

testing instruments
39
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.2.2 - Using the Multimeter
SELF CHECK 3.2.1
LEARNING OUTCOME #3 - Diagnose faults and defects of consumer

electronic
products and systems
40
INTRODUCTION
41
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.3.1 - Electronic devices and symbols
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.3.2 - Drawing and Interpreting Schematic 46

Diagrams
SELF CHECK 3.3.1 49
LEARNING OUTCOME #4 Maintain/Repair consumer electronic products 50

52
INTRODUCTION
57
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.4.1 - Principles of Electrical Circuits
62
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.4.2 - Electronic Circuits
64
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.4.3 - Analysis of Troubles
72
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.4.4 - Microwave Oven Principles of Operation
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.4.5 - Microwave Oven Parts and Component 78

Placement
79
SELF CHECK 3.4.1
LEARNING OUTCOME #5 - Re-assemble and test repaired consumerl electronics products

81
INTRODUCTION
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.5.1 - Troubleshooting Components 87
INFORMATION SHEETS 3.5.2 - Microwave Oven Troubleshooting

103
JOB SHEETS 3.5.1 – Microwave oven Disassembly
105
JOB SHEETS 3.5.2 – Microwave oven Assembly
JOB SHEETS 3.5.3 – Discharge a Capacitor 107
JOB SHEETS 3.5.4 – Check turntable rotation 109
JOB SHEETS 3.5.5 – Troubleshoot Microwave Oven problems with circuit

diagnosis 110
JOB SHEETS 3.5.6 – Conduct tests of high voltage components when

little or no heat is produced by an oven but all other 111
operations appear normal
JOB SHEETS 3.5.7 – Remove and install magnetron 114

JOB SHEETS 3.5.8 – Remove and disassemble a stirrer system 116
INSTITUTIONAL ASSESSMENT 117
LEARNER’S DIARY 119

HOW TO USE THIS N.C. LEVEL : II
LEARNING SERVICE CONSUMER ELECTRONIC
PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS CORE MODULE: 2
MATERIAL
Welcome to the learner’s guide for the module; Service Consumer Electronic Products and Systems. This
learners guide contains training materials and activities for you to
complete.
The unit of competency “Maintain and Repair Electronically-Controlled Domestic Appliances”

contains the knowledge, skills and attitudes required for Electronic Products Assembly and Servicing. It is one
of
the Core Modules at National certificate Level II (NC II).
You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to complete each learning
outcomes of the module. In each learning outcomes there are Instruction Sheets to help you better
understand the required activities. Follow these activities on your own and answer the self-check at the
end of each learning outcome. You may remove a blank answer sheets at the end of the module to
reflect your answers for each self-check. If you have questions, please don’t hesitate to ask your
facilitator for assistance.
Instruction Sheets:
 Information Sheet – this will provide with information (concepts, principles and other
relevant information) needed in performing certain activities.
 Operation Sheet – this will guide you in performing single task, operation or process in a job.
 Job Sheet – this is designed to guide you how to do a job that will contribute to the attainment
of the learning outcome.
 Assignment Sheet – the assignment sheet is a guide used to enhance (follow- up) what you
have learned in the information sheets, operation sheet or job sheet.
 Worksheet – worksheets are the different forms that you need to fill-up in certain activities
that you performed.
Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL)
You may already have some or most of the knowledge and skills covered in this learner’s guide
because you have:
 Been working for some time.
 Already completed training in this area.
If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent in a particular skill, you don’t have to
do the same training again.
If you feel you have some of the skills, talk to your trainer about having them formally recognized. If
you have qualification or Certificates of Competence from previous training, show it to your trainer. If
the skills you acquired are still relevant to the module, they may become part of the evidence you can
present for RPL.
HOW TO USE THIS N.C. LEVEL : II
LEARNING SERVICE CONSUMER ELECTRONIC
MATERIAL
At the end of this learner’s guide is a learner diary use this diary to record important dates, jobs
undertaken and other workplace events that will assist you in providing further details to your trainer or
assessors. A Record of Achievement is also provided for your trainer to complete once you
completed the module.
This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency in maintaining and
repairing electronically-controlled domestic appliances. This will be the source of information for you to
acquire knowledge and skills in this particular trade, with minimum supervision or help from your
instructor. With the aid of these materials you will acquire the competency independently and at your
own pace.
 Talk to your trainer and agree on how you will both organize the Training of this unit. Read
through the learning guide carefully .It is divided into sections, which cover all the skill and
knowledge, you need to successfully complete in this module.
 Work through all the information and complete the activities in each section. Read
information sheets and complete the self- check. Suggested references are included to
supplement the materials provided in this module.
 Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He/she is there to
support You and show you the Correct way to do thing. Ask for help.
 Your trainer will tell you about the important things you need to consider when you are
completing activities and it is important that you listen and take notes.
 You will be given plenty of opportunity to ask questions and practice on the job. Make sure
you practice your new skills during regular work shifts. This way you will improve both your speed
and memory and also your confidence.
 Talk to more experience workmates and ask for their guidance.
 Use the self-check questions at the end of each section to test your own progress.
 When you are ready, ask your trainer to watch you perform the activities outline in the
learning guide.
 As you work through the activities, ask for written feedback on your progress. Your trainer
keeps feedback/pre-assessment reports for this reason. When you have successfully completed
each element, ask your trainer to mark on the reports that you are ready for assessment.
 When you have completed this modules (or several module), and feel confident that you have
had sufficient practice, your trainer will arrange an appointment with registered assessor to assess
you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in your competency Achievement Record.
SERVICE CONSUMER ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS AND N.C. LEVEL : II
SESSION PLAN
SYSTEMS CORE MODULE: 2
Session Plan
Sector : Electronics
Qualification Title :Electronic Products Assembly And Servicing NC - II
Unit of Competency :Service Consumer Electronic Products And Systems
:Servicing Consumer Electronic Products And Systems
Module
Learning Outcomes:
LO1. Prepare unit, tools and workplace for installation and service
LO2. Install consumer electronic products and systems
LO3. Diagnose faults and defects of consumer electronic products and systems
LO4. Maintain/Repair consumer electronic products
LO5. Re-assemble and test repaired consumer electronics products
A. Introduction
This module is designed to enhance the knowledge, skills and attitude of the trainees in maintaining and repairing electronically controlled
domestic appliances.
B. Learning Activities
LO 1: Prepare unit, tools and workplace for installation and service
SESSION PLAN
Learning
Presentation Practice Feedback Resources Time
Content
Work Safety Read Information 1 hour

Requirements Sheets 3.1.1
Read Electrical Safety

1 hour
- Safety and Health for
Electrical Trades
Student Manual Learning elements and
Application of 5S Read Information 1 hour
Answer Self Check Instructor evaluates
Sheets 3.1.2 manuals
View “5S Application” Working area/bench

3.1.1 trainee
CD 1 hour
PPE
Use of Personal
Read Information 1 hour
Protective
Equipment and Sheets 3.1.3
Clothing 1 hour
View “PPE” CD
LO 2: Install consumer electronic products and systems
Learning Presentation Practice Feedback Resources

Content
Use and function Read Information Answer Self Check Instructor evaluates Indicated in LO2 2 hours
of tools, Sheets 3.2.1 3.2.1 trainee introduction
SESSION PLAN
equipment and
testing
instruments Read Information as 4 hours
Using the
multimeter Sheets 3.2.2
View “Using 1 hour
Multimeter” CD
LO 3: Diagnose faults and defects of consumer electronic products and systems
Learning Presentation Practice Feedback Resources

Content
Electronic Read Information Drawing instruments and 1 hour
devices and Sheets 3.3.1 materials
symbols
Resistor Color View “Resistor Color Working area/bench
Answer Self Check Instructor evaluates 1 hour
Code Code” CD
3.3.1 trainee Sufficient lighting and
Drawing and Read Information ventilation system 1 hour
Interpreting Sheets 3.3.2
Schematic Complete electronic
Diagrams supplies
LO 4: Maintain/Repair consumer electronic products
Principles of Read Information 1 hour

Electrical Circuits Sheets 3.4.1
View “Ohm’s Answer Self Check Instructor evaluates Indicated in LO4

Law” CD 1 hour
Electronic 3.4.1 trainee introduction
Circuits Read Information 1 hour

Sheets 3.4.2
SESSION PLAN
Analysis of Read Information

Troubles Sheets 3.4.3
Microwave Read Information

Oven Sheets 3.4.4
Principle of
Operation
Read Information
Microwave
Oven Sheets 3.4.5
Parts and
Placement
LO5 : Re-assemble and test repaired consumer electronics products
Troubleshooting Read Information Sheets 3.5.1

Components
Microwave Oven
Read Information Sheets 3,5,2
Troubleshooting
Microwave Oven Perform Job Sheets 3.5.1

Disassembly Indicated in LO5
Microwave Oven
Assembly Perform Job Sheets 3.5.2 introduction
Discharge a Perform Job Sheets 3.5.3

Capacitor
Check Turntable
Rotation Perform Job Sheets 3.5.4
Troubleshoot
Microwave Oven
SESSION PLAN
problems with Perform Job Sheets 3.5.4 1 hour

circuit diagnosis
Conduct tests of
Perform Job Sheets 3.5.5 1 hour
high voltage
components
when little or no
heat is produced
by an oven but all
other operations
appear normal
Perform Job Sheets 3.5.6 1 hour
Remove and
install magnetron
Remove and
disassemble a Perform Job Sheets 3.5.7 1 hour
stirrer system
C. Assessment Plan
 Written Test: Questions on domestic appliance operation, component functions
 Interview: Questions on customer related issues, safety issues, troubleshooting techniques, use of tools, equipments,
instruments and devices.
 Performance Test: In a simulated workplace environment. The performance will include –
a. Repairing Electronically-Controlled Domestic Appliance
SESSION PLAN
D. Instructor’s Self-Reflection of the Session

N.C. LEVEL : II
INTRODUCTION SERVICE CONSUMER ELECTRONIC
QUALIFICATION: Electronic Products Assembly and Servicing NC – II

UNIT OF COMPETENCY: Service Consumer Electronic Products and Systems
MODULE TITLE: Service Consumer Electronic Products and Systems
INTRODUCTION:
This module is designed to enhance the knowledge, skills and attitude of the trainees in
maintaining and repairing electronically controlled domestic appliances.
SUMMARY OF LEARNING OUTCOMES:
At the completion of this module the trainees/students should be able to:
LO1. Prepare unit, tools and workplace for installation and service
LO2. Install consume electronic products and systems
LO3. Diagnose faults and defects of consume electronic products and systems
LO4. Maintain/Repair consume electronic products
LO5. Re-assemble and test repaired consume electronics products
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Electrical safety precautions are identified, enumerated and explained correctly

2. OHS in maintaining and repairing audio/video products and systems are defined and
explained
3. OHS in maintaining and assembling audio/video products and systems are demonstrated in
accordance to the set procedures/instructions
4. Materials needed for maintenance and repair are identified and prepared and checked according
to the work instructions
5. Tools and equipment types and functions needed for maintenance and repair are identified and
demonstrated according to set standards
6. Testing devices and instruments operations needed for maintenance and repair are explained
and demonstrated according to instruction manual
N.C. LEVEL : II
INTRODUCTION SERVICE CONSUMER ELECTRONIC
7. Testing devices and instruments operations needed for maintenance and repair are
explained and demonstrated according to instruction manual
8. Electronic symbols are identified and selected according to the schematic diagram
9. Electronic parts value are read and matched correctly as required
10. Schematic diagram sections and functions are identified and explained
11. Personal protective equipment are used in accordance with occupational health and safety
practices
12. Control settings/adjustments are checked in conformity with service-manual specifications.
13. System defects/Fault symptoms are diagnosed and identified using appropriate tools and
equipment and in accordance with safety procedures
14. Identified defects and faults are explained to the responsible person in accordance with enterprise
or company policy and procedures
15. Customers are advised/informed regarding the status and serviceability of the unit
16. Results of diagnosis and testing are documented accurately and completely within the
specified time
17.
Materials, tools and instruments needed in troubleshooting repair and cleaning are selected
and checked in accordance with established procedures
18. Isolation of troubles are performed with proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and following
the Occupational Health and Safety (OHS) practices
19. Troubles are isolated by following the systematic procedures and using proper instruments in
20. accordance with the prescribed instructions
Defective parts/components are replaced with identical or recommended appropriate
equivalent ratings and soldered/mounted in accordance with the current industry standards
21. Control settings/adjustments of repaired unit are performed in conformity with service- manual
specifications
22. Cleaning of unit is performed in accordance with standard pro
23. Periodical tests of the repaired unit are maintained and documented according to standard
24.
procedures
Repaired units are reassembled completely and waste materials are disposed of in
accordance with environmental requirements
25. Results of troubleshooting and repair are documented properly within the specified
time
PRE-REQUISITE:
Trainee:
1. Is at least high school graduate

2. With good moral character
3. Can communicate either orally or written
N.C. LEVEL : II
INTRODUCTION PREPARE UNIT, TOOLS AND WORKPLACE
FOR INSTALLATION AND SERVICE CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 1
Qualification Electronic Products Assembly and Servicing NC – II

Unit of Competency
Service Consumer Electronic Products and Systems
Module Title Servicing Consumer Electronic Products and Systems
Learning Outcome # 1 Prepare unit, tools and workplace for installation and service
Assessment Criteria:
1. Electrical safety precautions are identified, enumerated and explained correctly

2. OHS in maintaining and repairing electronically controlled domestic appliances are
defined and explained
3. OHS in maintaining and repairing electronically controlled domestic appliances are
demonstrated in accordance to the set procedures/instructions
Resources:
 Learning elements and manuals

 Working area/bench
 PPE
LEARNING EXPERIENCES
Learning Outcome #1: Prepare unit, tools and workplace for installation and service
Learning Activities Special Instructions
1. Work Safety Requirements  Read Information Sheets 3.1.1

 Read Electrical Safety - Safety and Health
2. Application of 5S for Electrical Trades Student Manual
 Read Information Sheets 3.1.2
3. Use of Personal Protective Equipment  View “5S Application” CD
 Read Information Sheets 3.1.3
and Clothing
 View “PPE” CD
 Answer Self Check 3.1.1
15
INFORMATION WORK SAFETY REQUIREMENTS N.C. LEVEL : II
SHEETS 3.1.1 CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 1
Objectives:
Upon completion of these information sheets, you will be able to:
Know basic Electrical Safety.
Electrical Safety
 Never use electrical tools on damp ground or around water

 Never place an antenna near power lines
 Keep a safe distance from pad mounted transformers
 Never insert anything (especially metal) into an electrical appliance (such as a toaster)
 Do not overload electrical outlets with too many electrical plugs. Buy one surge protector with many
outlets instead of ‘daisy-chaining’ smaller power splitters

Wear rubber gloves and rubber boots when working near electrical components.

Inspect tools and appliances for wear and damage prior to use

Use electrical tape for power cord management, do not use staples
Always use the correct size fuse, never use a fuse with a larger amperage allowance

than the original
 When working near power lines, use ladders made of wood instead of metal
 If you have a bad feeling about some work concerning electricity, stay away!
 Know where breakers and electrical boxes are in case of an emergency
 Label circuit breakers clearly
 Do not use electrical outlets or cords with exposed wiring
Do not touch a person or electrical apparatus in the event of an electrical accident.

Always disconnect the current first.
Do not clean tools with flammable or toxic solvents.
INFORMATION APPLICATION OF 5S N.C. LEVEL : II
Objectives:
Apply 5S
Phases of 5S
There are 5 primary phases of 5S: sorting, straightening, systematic cleaning, standardizing, and
sustaining. Additionally, there are two other phases sometimes included, safety & security.
Sorting (Seiri)
Eliminate all unnecessary tools, parts, and instructions. Go through all tools, materials, and so forth
in the plant and work area. Keep only essential items and eliminate what is not required, prioritizing
things as per requirements and keeping them in approachable places. Everything else is stored or
discarded.
Straightening or setting in order / stabilize (Seiton)
There should be a place for everything and everything should be in its place. The place for each
item should be clearly labeled or demarcated. Items should be arranged in a manner that promotes
efficient work flow. Workers should not have to bend repetitively to access materials. Each tool,
part, supply, or piece of equipment should be kept close to where it will be used – in other words,
straightening the flow path. Seiton is one of the features that distinguishes 5S from "standardized
cleanup". This phase can also be referred to as Simplifying.
Sweeping or shining or cleanliness / systematic cleaning (Seiso)
Keep the workplace tidy and organized. At the end of each shift, clean the work area and be sure
everything is restored to its place. This makes it easy to know what goes where and ensures that
everything is where it belongs. A key point is that maintaining cleanliness should be part of the
daily work – not an occasional activity initiated when things get too messy.
Standardizing (Seiketsu)
Work practices should be consistent and standardized. Everyone should know exactly what his or
her responsibilities are for adhering to the first 3 S's.
Sustaining the discipline or self-discipline (Shitsuke)
Maintain and review standards. Once the previous 4 S's have been established, they become the
new way to operate. Maintain focus on this new way and do not allow a gradual decline back to the
old ways. While thinking about the new way, also be thinking about yet better ways. When an issue
arises such as a suggested improvement, a new way of working, a new tool or a new output
requirement, review the first 4 S's and make changes as appropriate.
Safety
INFORMATION APPLICATION OF 5S N.C. LEVEL : II
A sixth phase, "Safety", is sometimes added. While it is reasonable to assume that a properly
planned and executed 5S program will improve workplace safety, some argue that explicitly
including this sixth "S" ensures that workplace safety is given at least a secondary consideration.
Security
A seventh phase, "Security", can also be added. In order to leverage security as an investment
rather than an expense, the seventh "S" identifies and addresses risks to key business
categories including fixed assets (PP&E), material, human capital, brand equity, intellectual
property, information technology, assets-in-transit and the extended supply chain.
It is important to have continuous education about maintaining standards. When there are changes
that affect the 5S program such as new equipment, new products or new work rules, it is essential
to make changes in the standards and provide training. Companies embracing 5S often use
posters and signs as a way of educating employees and maintaining standards.
INFORMATION USE OF PERSONAL PROTECTIVE N.C. LEVEL : II
SHEETS 3.1.3 EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 1
Objectives:
Use Personal Protective Equipment’s (PPE)
Personal protective equipment (PPE) refers to protective clothing, helmets, goggles, or other
garment designed to protect the wearer's body from injury by blunt impacts, electrical hazards,
heat, chemicals, and infection. The terms "protective gear" and "protective clothing" are in many
cases interchangeable; "protective clothing" is applied to traditional categories of clothing, and
"gear" is a more general term and preferably means uniquely protective categories, such as pads,
guards, shields, masks, etc.
Goggles and safety glasses are forms of protective eyewear that usually enclose or protect the eye
area in order to prevent particulates or chemicals from striking the eyes. They are used in
chemistry laboratories and in woodworking. They are often used in snow sports as well, and in
swimming.
Goggles are often worn when using power tools such as drills or chainsaws to prevent flying
particles from damaging the eyes. Many types of goggles are available as prescription goggles for
those with vision problems.
Safety googles
Safety Mask
Protective masks have these functions:
 Providing a supply of breathable air or other oxygen-containing gas.
 Protecting the face against flying objects or dangerous environments, while allowing
vision.
N.C. LEVEL : II
SELF CHECK PREPARE UNIT, TOOLS AND WORKPLACE
1.1.1 FOR INSTALLATION AND SERVICE CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 1
Instruction. Tick the box for your answer. Ask your instructor for evaluation afterwards.
YES NO
1. I can enumerate OHS policies and procedures in maintaining and
repairing electronically controlled domestic appliances
2. I can explain OHS policies and procedures in maintaining and
repairing electronically controlled domestic appliances
3. I can apply OHS policies and procedures in maintaining and repairing
electronically controlled domestic appliances
N.C. LEVEL : II
INSTALL CONSUMER ELECTRONIC
INTRODUCTION
PRODUCTS SYSTEMS CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 2
Qualification : Electronic Products Assembly and Servicing NC – II
Unit of Competency : Service Consumer Electronic Products and Systems
Module Title : Servicing Consumer Electronic Products and Systems
Install consumer electronic products/systems of

Learning Outcome # 2 :
tools and testing instruments for maintaining and repairing
electronically controlled domestic appliances
1. Materials needed for maintenance and repair are identified and prepared and
checked according to the work instructions
2. Tools and equipment types and functions needed for maintenance and repair are
identified and demonstrated according to set standards
3. Testing devices and instruments operations needed for maintenance and repair
are explained and demonstrated according to instruction manual
4. Personal protective equipment are used in accordance with the Occupational
Health and
Safety guidelines and policies
Resources:
TOOLS FACILITIES MATERIALS
 Long-nosed pliers  Working area/bench  Solder lead
 Diagonal cutters  Sufficient lighting and  Cleaning brush
 Standard screwdrivers  ventilation system  Lead free solder
 Soldering iron, 30w  Resin core solder
 De-soldering iron, 30w Learning materials  Wire stranded, #22,
 Screw driver assorted,  Books and references (different colors)
Phillips, slotted  Technical manuals  Silicon grease
 Wrenches assorted  Documentation forms  Resistors (different
 Allen wrench/key  Report forms values)
 Utility knife/stripper  Self-paced learning  Capacitors (different
 Pliers assorted, long elements values)
 nose, side cutter  Transformer
 Test jig
N.C. LEVEL : II
INTRODUCTION INSTALL CONSUMER ELECTRONIC

PRODUCTSSYSTEMS CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 2
Learning Outcome #2: Install Consumer Electronic Products Systems
1. Use and function of tools, equipment  Read Information Sheets 3.2.1

and testing instruments
2. Using the Multimeter  Read Information Sheets 3.2.2
 View “Using Multimeter” CD
INFORMATION USE AND FUNCTION OF TOOLS, N.C. LEVEL : II
SHEETS 3.2.1 EQUIPMENT AND TESTING CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 2
INSTRUMENTS
Objective(s):
Know use and functions of tools, equipment and testing instruments
TOOLS
Screwdrivers
A screwdriver amplifies the hand's turning motion to the small, specially designed tip that is
inserted into the screw's head. There are numerous tip designs for special applications (such as
appliance assembly), but the two most common are standard (also called flat, flared, or straight)
and Phillips (X-shaped) tips. The screwdriver handle can be of plastic or wood, sometimes with a
rubberized cover to improve grip. Other tips include clutch (hourglass shape), Robertson (square),
and Torx (six slots). Some fasteners can be turned either by standard or Phillips tips.
Screwdrivers come in several designs, but the standard model

with a flat head is still among the most common.
Common screwdriver tips

INSTRUMENTS
(a) Slotted, (b) Phillips, (c) Pozidriv, (d) Torx, (e) Hex,
(f) Robertson, (g) Tri-Wing, (h) Torq-Set, (i) Spanner
To ensure that the screwdriver is at good condition is to check if there is deformation on the
tip of the screwdriver and the shaft should be straight with good grip on the handle.
Wrenches
The purpose of a wrench is to turn a bolt head or nut. Selecting the appropriate wrench
depends on the fastener's design and size. It can also depend on how difficult the fastener is
to reach. Wrench types include open end, combination, adjustable, and Allen.
An Adjustable End wrench
Here are some of the different types of wrenches from which you can choose:
Box end. A box, or closed, end wrench is used where there is room to place the wrench
mouth around the fastener. Box end wrenches are available in 6- and 12-point versions to
match the number of sides on the fastener. Hexagon fasteners have 6 sides, or points, and
are the most popular.
Open end. This type of wrench is used for turning fasteners in locations where a box end
wrench cannot encompass the fastener.
Combination. A combination wrench has ends that perform specific tasks. One end may be
open and the other closed, one may be offset and the other straight, or the two ends might be of
fractionally different sizes.
Adjustable. An adjustable wrench can be used on a variety of fastener sizes. The disadvantage is
that it is less stable than a fixed-size wrench and can easily injure you or damage the fastener. An
adjustable wrench should be used only if the correct size wrench is not available.
INSTRUMENTS
Socket. Socket wrenches fit over the fastener, making removal easier and safer than with
other wrenches. Sockets come in standard and extended depth; extensions are available to
make removing fasteners easier. They are often purchased in sets by drive size.
Allen. Called by the Allen brand name, these are used on fasteners with a hexagonal hole in the
head. Allen wrenches are available with L- or T-shape handles.
A well conditioned wrench have a perfect jaw to fit on the bolt head or nut. Provides a good
grip when use.
Pliers
The primary purpose of the tool known as pliers is to grip objects firmly. The objects can
then be turned, bent, or otherwise manipulated. Pliers have parallel handles, a pivot where the
handles join, and parallel jaws that grasp the object. Special-use pliers may have additional
components and purposes, such as cutting pliers. Types of pliers include engineer's pliers for
gripping metal, flat-nosed pliers for grasping smaller objects, electrician's pliers for gripping
electrical wires, and round-nosed pliers for bending wire into loops. The most common are slip-joint
and plumber's pliers, both with slip-joint adjustments to change the width of the jaw grip. In addition,
locking pliers, sometimes known by the Vice-Grip brand name, are popular for firmly holding
objects.
Slip-joint pliers allow you to grip objects of varying sizes

INSTRUMENTS
Lineman's pliers Needle-nose pliers
Diagonal pliers
A plier in good condition has no deformations on its jaw and can provide good grip while handling
objects.
Soldering Iron/Soldering Gun
A soldering iron / soldering gun is a device for applying heat to melt solder for
soldering two metal parts together.
A soldering iron is composed of a heated metal tip and an insulated handle.
Heating is often
achieved electrically, by passing a current, supplied through an electrical cord or a battery,
through a heating element.
For electrical work, wires are usually soldered to printed circuit boards, other wires,
or small
terminals.
INSTRUMENTS
Using a soldering iron Soldering Gun
Desoldering tools
In electronics,desoldering is the removal of solder and components from a circuit for
troubleshooting and repair purposes. Electronic components are often mounted on a circuit
board and it is usually desirable to avoid damaging the circuit board, surrounding components,
and the component being removed.
Desoldering Pump Desoldering Braid
EQUIPMENT AND TESTING INSTRUMENTS
Multimeter or Multitester (VOM)
There are many types of and varieties of test and measuring equipments that are now
used in audio and video systems repair and diagnosis.
Most instruments and equipments are used to measure DC voltage, resistance, AC
voltage and DC current values. The most basic instrument that is still commonly used is the VOM
or
multimeter.
INSTRUMENTS
However there are types of instruments under the category of multimeters that are being
used today because of their special functions and high accuracy such as the DVOM (digital
VOM).
INSTRUMENTS
Objective(s):
Operate testing instruments properly
How to use a Multimeter
- The basics or instructions of how to use a multimeter, including how to use an analog or analogue
multimeter, or a digital multimeter, DMM, and using multimeters their best advantage.
Multimeters are very cheap to buy and are one of the most commonly used pieces of electronics
test equipment. Although basic operational multimeter instruction may be given when the test
meter is bought, details of how to use the multimeter to test circuits and gain the maximum use
from them are not always available.
Although there are major differences between the internal circuits within analogue and digital
multimeters, the way in which they are used is comparatively similar. However separate sections
are given below with instructions on how to use a digital multimeter and how to use an analogue
multimeter.
How to use a digital multimeter
The operation of a DMM, digital multimeter, itself is normally very straightforward. With a knowledge
of how to make voltage, current and resistance measurements (see the "Related Articles" on the
left hand side of this page for further details) it is then a matter of putting the multimeter to use. If
the meter is new then it will obviously be necessary to install a battery to power it. This is normally
simple and straightforward and details can be found in the operating instructions for the DMM.
... apart from amps, volts, and ohms, many

DMMs can measure parameters including
frequency, capacitance, continuity, and
temperature....
INSTRUMENTS
When using the meter it is possible to follow a number of simple steps:
1. Turn the meter on
2. Insert the probes into the correct connections - this is required because there may be a
number of different connections that can be used.
3. Set switch to the correct measurement type and range for the measurement to be made.
When selecting the range, ensure that the maximum range is above that anticipated. The
range on the DMM can then be reduced as necessary. However by selecting a range that is
too high, it prevents the meter being overloaded.
4. Optimise the range for the best reading. If possible enable all the leading digits to not read
zero, and in this way the greatest number of significant digits can be read.
5. Once the reading is complete, it is a wise precaution to place the probes into the voltage
measurement sockets and turn the range to maximum voltage. In this way if the meter is
accidentally connected without thought for the range used, there is little chance of damage to
the meter. This may not be true if it left set for a current reading, and the meter is
accidentally connected across a high voltage point!
How to use an analogue multimeter
The operation of an analogue multimeter is quite easy. With a knowledge of how to make voltage,
current and resistance measurements (see the "Related Articles" on the left hand side of this
page for further details) it is only necessary to know how to use the multimeter itself. If the meter
is new then it will obviously be necessary to install any battery or batteries needed for the
resistance measurements.
... analogue multimeters have been available for

many years and they are very flexible in their
operation....
INSTRUMENTS
number of different connections that can be used. Be sure to get the right connections, and not
put them into the ones for a low current measurement if a high voltage measurement is to be
made
- this could damage the multimeter.
2. Set switch to the correct measurement type and range for the measurement to be made.
When selecting the range, ensure that the maximum for the particular range chosen is above
that anticipated. The range on the multimeter can be reduced later if necessary. However by
selecting a range that is too high, it prevents the meter being overloaded and any possible
damage to the movement of the meter itself.
3. Optimise the range for the best reading. If possible adjust it so that the maximum deflection
of the meter can be gained. In this way the most accurate reading will be gained.
4. Once the reading is complete, it is a wise precaution to place the probes into the voltage
measurement sockets and turn the range to maximum voltage position. In this way if the
meter is accidentally connected without thought for the range to be used, there is little chance
of damage to the meter. This may not be true if it left set for a current reading, and the meter
is accidentally connected across a high voltage point!
Measuring voltage with a multimeter

- an overview or tutorial about how to measure voltage with a digitialmultimeter (DMM) or an
analogue multimeter.
One the important measurements that it is possible to make with a multimeter (either and
analog / analogue multimeter) or a digital multimeter is that of voltage. Voltage measurements
look at the potential difference between two points. In other words they look at the difference in
electric pressure at the two points. In most cases the voltage is measured between a particular
point and the ground or zero volt line on a circuit. However this does not mean that the voltage
cannot be measured between any two points.
When making a voltage measurement with a multimeter, the first step is to switch the multimeter to
the voltage ranges. It is best to select a range higher than the expected voltage so that there is no
chance of the meter being overloaded and damaged. In addition to this check that the test leads
are plugged into the correct sockets. Many multimeters have different sockets for different types of
measurement so it is worth checking the correct ones have been chosen before making the
measurement. Usually a meter will be provided with two leads, one black, and the other red. The
black one is normally taken as the negative one. It is connected to the negative or "common"
socket on the meter. The red one is connected to the positive socket.
INSTRUMENTS
When making the measurement, the positive lead should be connected to terminal which is
expected to have the more positive voltage. If the leads are connected the wrong way round a
negative voltage will be displayed. This is acceptable for a digital multimeter (DMM) because it will
just display a negative sign. However for an analogue multimeter, the meter needle will move
backwards and hit a stop. If at all possible it is best not to allow this to happen.
With the multimeter connected, power can be applied to the circuit. The multimeter switches can
then be changed to reduce the value of the range. This is done until the largest deflection is seen
on the meter without it going over the top of the range. In this way the most accurate reading is
obtained.
How to measure current

- an overview or tutorial about how to measure electrical current with a digital multimeter (DMM)
or an analogue multimeter. This includes how to direct electrical current and how to measure ac
current with a multimeter.
It is often necessary to know how to measure current using a multimeter. Current measurements
are easy to make, but they are done in a slightly different way to the way in which voltage and
other measurements are made. However current measurements often need to be made to find out
whether a circuit is operating correctly, or to discover other facts associated with its current
consumption.
Current measurements can be made with a variety of test instruments, but the most widely used
pieces of test equipment for making current measurements is a digital multimeter. These items
of test equipment are widely available and at very reasonable prices.
Basics of current measurement
Current measurements are made in a different way to voltage and other measurements. Current
consists of a flow of electrons around a circuit, and it is necessary to be able to monitor the overall
flow of electrons. In very simple circuit is shown below. In this there is a battery, a bulb which can be
used as an indicator and a resistor. To change the level of current flowing in the circuit it is possible
to change the resistance, and the amount of current flowing can be gauged by the brightness of the
bulb.
INSTRUMENTS
A simple circuit in which to measure current
When using a multimeter to measure current, the only way that can be used to detect the level of
current flowing is to break into the circuit so that the current passes through the meter. Although
this can be difficult at times, it is the best option. A typical current measurement can be made as
shown below. From this it can be seen that the circuit in which the current is flowing has to be
broken and the multimeter inserted into the circuit. In some circuits where current may often need
to be measured, terminals with a shorting link may be added to facilitate the current measurement.
How to measure current using a multimeter
In order that the multimeter does not alter the operation of the circuit when it is used to measure
current, the resistance of the meter must be as low as possible. For measurements of around an
amp, the resistance of a meter should be much less than an ohm. For example if a meter had a
resistance of one ohm, and a current of one amp was flowing, then it would develop a voltage of
one volt across it. For most measurements this would be unacceptably high. Therefore
resistances of meters used to measure current are normally very low.
How to measure current with an analogue multimeter
It is quite easy to use an analogue meter to measure electrical current. There are a few minor
differences in way that current measurements are made, but the same basic principles are
used.
number of different connections that can be used. Be sure to get the right connections as there
may be separate connections for very low or very high current ranges.
SHEETS 3.2.2 EQUIPMENT AND TESTING
INSTRUMENTS CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 2
2.Set switch to the correct measurement type (i.e. to measure current) and range for the
measurement to be made. When selecting the range, ensure that the maximum for the particular
range chosen is above that anticipated. The range on the multimeter can be reduced later if
necessary. However by selecting a range that is too high, it prevents the meter being overloaded
and any possible damage to the movement of the meter itself.
3.When taking the reading, optimise the range for the best reading. If possible adjust it so that the
maximum deflection of the meter can be gained. In this way the most accurate reading will be
gained.
4.Once the reading is complete, it is a wise precaution to place the probes into the voltage
measurement sockets and turn the range to maximum voltage position. In this way if the meter is
accidentally connected without thought for the range to be used, there is little chance of damage
to the meter. This may not be true if it left set for a current reading, and the meter is accidentally
connected across a high voltage point!
How to measure current with a digital multimeter
To measure current with a digital multimeter it is possible to follow a few simple steps:
5. Turn the meter on
6.Insert the probes into the correct connections - in many meters there are a number of different
connections for the probes. Often one labelled common into which the black probe is normally
placed. The other probe should be entered into the correct socket for the current measurement to
be made. Sometimes there is a special connection for current measurements, and sometimes a
separate one for either low or high current measurements. Select the correct one for the current
measurement to be made.
7.Set main selector switch on the meter switch to the correct measurement type, (i.e. current) and
range for the measurement to be made. When selecting the range, ensure that the maximum range
is above the expected reading anticipated. The range on the DMM can then be reduced as
necessary. However by selecting a range that is too high, it prevents the meter being overloaded.
8.When the measuring the current, optimize the range for the best reading. If possible enable all
the leading digits to not read zero, and in this way the greatest number of significant digits can be
read.
9.Once the reading is complete, it is a wise precaution to place the probes into the voltage
measurement sockets and turn the range to maximum voltage. In this way if the meter is
accidentally connected without thought for the range used, there is little chance of damage to
the meter. This may not be true if it left set for a current reading, and the meter is accidentally
connected across a high voltage point!
Following these steps it is very easy to measure current using any digital multimeter.
How to measure resistance with a multimeter

- an overview or tutorial about measuring resistance with a digital multimeter (DMM) or an
analogue multimeter.
One important measurement that can be made with a multimeter is a resistance measurement. Not
only can these be made to check the accuracy of a resistor, or check it is functioning correctly, but
resistance measurements can be required in many other scenarios as well. It may be to measure
the resistance of an unknown conductor, or it may be to check for short circuits and open circuits.
In fact there are many instances where measuring resistance is of great interest and importance. In
all these cases a multimeter is an ideal piece of test equipment for measuring resistance
Basics of measuring resistance
When measuring resistance, all musltimeters use exactly the same principle whether they are
analogue multimeters or digital multimeters. In fact other forms of test equipment that
measure resistance also use the same basic principle.
The basic idea is that the multimeter places a voltage at the two probes and this will cause a
current to flow in the item for which the resistance is being measured. By measuring the resistance
it is possible to determine the resistance between the two probes of the multimeter, or other item of
test equipment.
How to measure resistance with an analogue multimeter
Analogue multimeters are good at measuring resistance, although they are a few points to note
about the way in which it is done. The first point to note is that as the meter itself responds to
current flowing through the component under test, a high resistance which corresponds to a low
current appears on the left hand side of the dial, and a low resisatnce which corresponds to a
higher current appears on the right hand side of the dial as shown below. It will also be noticed that
the calibrations become much closer together as the resistance becomes higher, i.e. on the left
hand side of the dial.
Another aspect of using an analogue multimeter for measuring resistance is that the meter needs
to be "zero'ed" before making a measurement. This is done by connecting the two probes together
so that there is a short circuit, and then using the "zero" control to give full scale deflection on the
meter, i.e. zero ohms. Each time the range is changed, the meter needs to be zero'ed as the
position may change from one range to the next. The meter needs to be zero'ed because the full
scale deflection will change according to aspects such as the state of the battery.
There are a few simple steps required to make a resistance measurement with an
analogue multimeter:
1.Select the item to be measured: This may be anything where the resistance needs to be
measured and estimate what the resistance may be.
2.Insert the probes into the required sockets Often a multimeter will have several sockets for the
test probes. Insert these or check they are already in the correct sockets. Typically these might be
labelled COM for common and the other where the ohms sign is visible. This is normally combined
with the voltage measurement socket.
3.Select the required range The analogue multimeter needs on and the required range selected.
The range selected should be such that the best reading can be obtained. Normally the multimeter
function switch will be labelled with the maximum resistance reading. Choose the one where the
estimated value of resistance will be under but close to the maximum of the range. In this way the
most accurate resistance measurement can be made.
4.Zero the meter: The meter needs to be zero'ed. This is done by firmly palcing the two probes
together to give a short circuit and then adjusting the zero control to give a zero ohms (full scale
deflection) reading. This process needs to be repeated if the range is changed.
5.Make the measurement With the multimeter ready to make the measurement the probes can
be applied to the item that needs to be measured. The range can be adjusted if necessary.
6.Turn off the multimeter Once the resistance measurement has been made, it is wise to turn
the function switch to a high voltage range. In this way if the multimeter is used to again for
another
type of reading then no damage will be caused if it is inadvertently used without selecting the correct
range and function.
Analogue multimeters are ideal pieces of test equipment for measuring resistance. They are
relatively cheap and they offer a reasonably good level of accuracy and general performance.
They normally provide a level of accuracy that is more than sufficient for most jobs.
How to measure resistance with an digital multimeter, DMM
Measuring resistance with a digital multimeter is easier and faster than making a resistance
measurement with an analogue multimeter as there is no need to zero the meter. As the digital
multimeter gives a direct reading of the resistance measurement, there is also no equivalent of
the reverse reading found on the analogue multimeters.
There are a few simple steps required to make a resistance measurement with a digital
multimeter:
1.Select the item to be measured: This may be anything where the resistance needs to be
measured and estimate what the resistance may be.
2.Insert the probes into the required sockets Often a digital multimeter will have several sockets
for the test probes. Insert these or check they are already in the correct sockets. Typically these
might be labelled COM for common and the other where the ohms sign is visible. This is normally
combined with the voltage measurement socket.
3. Turn on the multimeter
4.Select the required range The digital multimeter needs on and the required range selected.
The range selected should be such that the best reading can be obtained. Normally the
multimeter function switch will be labelled with the maximum resistance reading. Choose the one
where the estimated value of resistance will be under but close to the maximum of the range. In
this way the most accurate resistance measurement can be made.
5.Make the measurement With the multimeter ready to make the measurement the probes can
be applied to the item that needs to be measured. The range can be adjusted if necessary.
6.Turn off the multimeter Once the resistance measurement has been made, the multimeter can
be turned off to preserve the batteries. It is also wise to turn the function switch to a high voltage
range. In this way if the multimeter is used to again for another type of reading then no damage
will be caused if it is inadvertently used without selecting the correct range and function.
Digital multimeters are ideal pieces of test equipment for measuring resistance. They are
relatively cheap and they offer a high level of accuracy and general performance.
General precautions when measuring resistance
As with any measurement, when measuring resistance, there are some precautions to observe.
In this way damage to the multimeter can be prevented, and more accurate measurements can
be made.
* Measure resistance when components are not connected in a circuit: It is always advisable not
to measure the resistance of an item that is in a circuit. It is always best to make the measurement
of the component on its own out of the circuit. If a measurement is made in-circuit, then all the
other components around it will have an effect. Any other paths that will allow current to pass will
affect the readings, making them inaccurate to some degree.
*Remember to ensure the circuit under test is not powered on Under some circumstances it is
necessary to measure resistance values actually on a circuit. When doing this it is very important to
ensure the circuit is not powered on. Not only will any current flowing in the circuit invalidate any
readings, but should the voltage be high enough, the current resulting could damage the multimeter.
*Ensure capacitors in a circuit under test are discharged. Again when measuring resistance
values in a circuit, it is necessary to ensure that any capacitors in the circuit are discharged. Any
current that flows as a result of them will cause the meter reading to be altered. Also any capacitors
in the circuit that are discharged may charge up as a result of the current from the multimeter and
as a result it may take a short while for the reading to settle.
*Remember diodes in a circuit will cause different readings in either direction When measuring
resistance in a circuit that includes diodes the value measured will be different if the connections
are reversed. This is because the diodes only conduct in one direction.
*Leakage path through fingers can alter readings in some cases. When making some
resistance measurements it is necessary to hold a resistor or component onto the multimeter test
probes. If high resistance measurements are being made the leakage path through the fingers can
become noticeable. Under some circumstances the resistance path through fingers can be
measured at just a few megohms, and as a result this can become significant. Fortunately the
levels of voltage used in most multimeters when measuring resistance is low, but some specialised
meters may use much higher voltages. It is wise to check.
N.C. LEVEL : II
SELF CHECK INSTALL CONSUMER ELECTRONIC
3.2.1 PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS
CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 2
YES NO
1. I can identify tools, equipment and testing instruments
2. I can explain the uses and functions of tools, equipment and
testing instruments
DIAGNOSE FAULTS AND DEFECTS N.C. LEVEL : II
INTRODUCTION OF CONSUMER ELECTRONIC
PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS
CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 3
Qualification Electronic Products Assembly and Servicing NC – II
Unit of Competency
Module Title Servicing Consumer Electronic Products and Systems

:
Learning Outcome # 3 : Diagnose faults and defects of consumer electronic products

system
and of symbols and block sections of schematic diagram
1. Electronic symbols are identified and selected according to the schematic diagram
2. Electronic parts value are read and matched correctly as required
3. Schematic diagram sections and functions are identified and explained
Resources:
 Drawing instruments and materials

 Working area/bench
 Sufficient lighting and ventilation system
Complete electronic supplies
Learning Outcome #3: Diagnose faults and defects of consumer electronic products
and systems
1. Electronic devices and symbols  Read Information Sheets 3.3.1
2. Resistor Color Code  View “Resistor Color Code” CD
3. Drawing and Interpreting Schematic  Read Information Sheets 3.3.2

Diagrams
INFORMATION ELECTRONIC DEVICES AND N.C. LEVEL : II
SHEETS 3.3.1 SYMBOLS CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 3
Objective(s):
Identify electronic devices and symbols
The main components used in electronics are of two general types: passive (e.g. resistors and
capacitors) and active (e.g. transistors and integrated circuits). The main difference between active
and passive components is that active ones require to be powered in some way to make them
work. Active components can also be used to amplify signals.
CAPACITOR
COIL (Inductor)
FIXED VARIABLE
CRYSTAL
DIODE
FUSE
LAMP
INTEGRATED CIRCUIT
LIGHT EMITTING DIODE
LOUDSPEAKER
METER
MICROPHONE
POTENTIOMETER
QUADRAC
RESISTOR
RELAY
SILICON CONTROLLED RECTIFIER (SCR)
THERMISTOR
TRANSFORMER
IF TRANSFORMER
TRANSISTOR
FIELD EFFECT TRANSISTOR
MOSFET
UNIJUNCTION TRANSISTOR (UJT)
ZENER DIODE
PHOTOTRANSISTOR
OPTICALLY COUPLED ISOLATOR

SHEETS 3.3.1 SYMBOLS CORE MODULE: LO: 3
INFORMATION DRAWING AND INTERPRETING N.C. LEVEL : II
SHEETS 3.3.2 SCHEMATIC DIAGRAMS CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 3
Objective(s):
Draw and interpret schematic diagram
ELECTRONIC DIAGRAMS
Ideas in electronics are introduced in diagram form – called

SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM.
It shows the components used and their interconnections. Each graphic symbol is also
accompanied with a reference designation to distinguish it from other similar symbols.
The reference designation is the letter and number nearest the graphic symbol.
For example, a section of a circuit is as follows:
The reference designations are R1, Q1,

C1 and SPKR. Their values or actual
description are given in the PARTS LIST like:
R1 – 10 K , ±5%, ¼ watt resistor
Q1 – 9013 NPN audio input
transistor(TO-92) C1 - 470 F 16 volts
electrolytic
SPKR – 8-OHMS 0.5 Watt 2-inch
diameter
loudspeaker
RULES AND CONVENTIONS IN ELECTRONIC DIAGRAMS
Electronic diagrams also follow some rules which are agreed upon by several associations
of electronic engineers.
Among the most common rules are the following:
1. Signal flow in a circuit should be from

left to right of a schematic diagram.
2. Voltage potentials are indicated with

the highest potential placed at the
upper portion of the diagram and the
ground (lowest) potential at the
bottom.
3. When interesting lines are to be

connected a small solid circle should be
used.
4. When intersecting lines are not

electrically connected the circuit diagram
is drawn as shown on the left.
The meaning of a symbol does not

change with its position or orientation in a
diagram, its size or line width.
5. Connecting line linking a symbol should

be drawn horizontally or vertically but if
ever a connecting line is drawn at an
angle it implies the same meaning unless
otherwise specified.
6. The standard symbol for a terminal (O)

could be added to any symbol but should
not be considered as part of a symbol.
OTHER COMON PRACTICES

Interrupted Lines
When a connecting line or group of lines

could not be directly continued to its final
destination, arrows (brackets) with designation
of the destination could be implemented.
Dashed Lines
Dashed lines may be used to indicate an
optionally connected component.
Dashed lines may be used indicate

component content in a single unit.
Dashed lines may be used to indicate

mechanical linkage of two or more components.
N.C. LEVEL : II
SELF CHECK DIAGNOSE FAULTS AND DEFECTS OF
3.3.1 CONSUMER ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 3
SYSTEMS
YES NO
1. I can identify electronic symbols and block sections of schematic
diagram
2. I can explain operation of electronic symbols and block sections
of schematic diagram
3. I can interpret operation of electronic symbols and block sections
of schematic diagram
N.C. LEVEL : II
INTRODUCTION MAINTAIN/REPAIR CONSUMER
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 4

Unit of Competency :
Learning Outcome # 4 : Maintain/Repair Consumer Electronic Products

1. Personal protective equipment are used in accordance with occupational health and
safety practices
2. Control settings/adjustments are checked in conformity with service-manual specifications
3. System defects/Fault symptoms are diagnosed and identified using appropriate tools
and equipment and in accordance with safety procedures
4. Identified defects and faults are explained to the responsible person in accordance with
enterprise or company policy and procedures
5. Customers are advised/informed regarding the status and serviceability of the unit
6. Results of diagnosis and testing are documented accurately and completely within
the specified time
Resources:
TOOLS EQUIPMENT MATERIALS

 Long-nosed pliers  Multimeter  Solder lead
 Diagonal cutters  Oscilloscope  Cleaning brush
 Standard screwdrivers  Function generator  Lead free solder
 Soldering iron, 30w  Electronically controlled  Resin core solder
Desoldering iron, 30w  unit(s)/appliance(s) and  wire
 Screw driver assorted,  accessories  Stranded, #22, different
Phillips, slotted  ESD free work bench with colors)
 Wrenches assorted mirror back-to-back/one  Silicon grease
 Allen wrench/key sided  Resistors (different
 Utility knife/stripper  High grade magnifying values)
 Pliers assorted, long glass with lamp  Capacitors (different
nose, side cutter values)
 Test jig Learning
Transformer
materials
 Books and References
 Technical Manuals
 Documentation forms
 Report forms
Domestic appliances may include but not limited to the following:

 Washing machines and driers
 Vacuum cleaners and polishers
 Home food processing equipment
 Pressure and rice cooker
N.C. LEVEL : II
INTRODUCTION MAINTAIN/REPAIR CONSUMER
LECTRONIC PRODUCTS CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 4
 Blender, coffee maker

 Toaster, waffle maker
 Microwave oven
 Electronic clock
 Flat irons and presses
 Rechargeable light
 Electronic controlled light
Home security equipment
Learning Outcome #4: Maintain/Repair Consumer Electronic Products

1. Principles of Electrical Circuits  Read Information Sheets 3.4.1

 View “Ohm’s Law” CD
2. Electronic Circuits  Read Information Sheets 3.4.2
3. Analysis of Troubles  Read Information Sheets 3.4.3
4. Microwave Oven Principles of Operation  Read Information Sheets 3.4.4
5. Microwave Oven Parts and  Read Information Sheets 3.4.5
Component Placement
 Answer Self check 3.4.1
INFORMATION PRINCIPLES OF ELECTRICAL N.C. LEVEL : II
SHEETS 3.4.1 CIRCUITS CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 4
Objectives:
Understand Electrical Circuits
OHM’S LAW
Ohm's law states that the current through a conductor between two points is directly proportional to
the potential difference or voltage across the two points, and inversely proportional to the resistance
between them.
The mathematical equation that describes this relationship is:
where I is the current through the resistance in units of amperes, V is the potential difference
measured across the resistance in units of volts, and R is the resistance of the conductor in units
of ohms. More specifically, Ohm's law states that the R in this relation is constant, independent of
the current.
Series and parallel circuits
Components of an electrical circuit or electronic circuit can be connected in many different ways.
The two simplest of these are called series and parallel and occur very frequently. Components
connected in series are connected along a single path, so the same current flows through all of
the components. Components connected in parallel are connected so the same voltage is applied
to each component.
A circuit composed solely of components connected in series is known as a series circuit;

likewise, one connected completely in parallel is known as a parallel circuit.
INFORMATION MAINTAIN/REPAIR CONSUMER N.C. LEVEL : II
SHEETS 3.4.1 ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 4
In a series circuit, the current through each of the components is the same, and the voltage across
the components is the sum of the voltages across each component. In a parallel circuit, the voltage
across each of the components is the same, and the total current is the sum of the currents
through each component.
As an example, consider a very simple circuit consisting of four light bulbs and one 6 V battery. If a
wire joins the battery to one bulb, to the next bulb, to the next bulb, to the next bulb, then back to
the battery, in one continuous loop, the bulbs are said to be in series. If each bulb is wired to the
battery in a separate loop, the bulbs are said to be in parallel. If the four light bulbs are connected in
series, the same current flows through all of them, and the voltage drop is 1.5 V across each bulb
and that may not be sufficient to make them glow. If the light bulbs are connected in parallel, the
current flowing through the light bulbs combine to form the current flowing in the battery, while the
voltage drop is 6.0 V across each bulb and they all glow.
In a series circuit, every device must function for the circuit to be complete. One bulb burning out in
a series circuit breaks the circuit. In parallel circuits, each light has its own circuit, so all but one
light could be burned out, and the last one will still function.
Series circuits
Series circuits are sometimes called current-coupled or daisy chain-coupled. The current that flows
in a series circuit will flow through every component in the circuit. Therefore, all of the components
in a series connection carry the same current.
Resistors
Inductors
Capacitors
The working voltage of a series combination of identical capacitors is equal to the sum of voltage
ratings of individual capacitors. This simple relationship only applies if the voltage ratings are
equal
SHEETS 3.4.1 LECTRONIC PRODUCTS CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 4
as well as the capacitances. However, the division of DC voltage between the capacitors is
dominated by the leakage resistance of the capacitors, rather than their capacitances, and this
has considerable variation. To counter this equalising resistors may be placed in parallel with each
capacitor which effectively add to the leakage current. The value of resistor chosen (perhaps a few
megohms) is as large as possible, but low enough to ensure that the capacitor leakage current is
insignificant compared to the current through the resistor. At DC, the circuit appears as a chain of
series identical resistors and equal voltage division between the capacitors is ensured. In high-
voltage circuits, the resistors serve an additional function as bleeder resistors.
Switches
Two or more switches in series form a logical AND; the circuit only carries current if all switches are
'on'. See AND gate.
Cells and batteries
A battery is a collection of electrochemical cells. If the cells are connected in series, the voltage of
the battery will be the sum of the cell voltages. For example, a 12 volt car battery contains six 2-
volt cells connected in series.
Parallel circuits
If two or more components are connected in parallel they have the same potential difference
(voltage) across their ends. The potential differences across the components are the same in
magnitude, and they also have identical polarities. The same voltage is applicable to all circuit
components connected in parallel. The total current I is the sum of the currents through the
individual components, in accordance with Kirchhoff’s current law.
Resistors
The current in each individual resistor is found by Ohm's law. Factoring out the voltage gives
To find the total resistance of all components, add the reciprocals of the resistances Ri of each
component and take the reciprocal of the sum. Total resistance will always be less than the value of
the smallest resistance:
For only two resistors, the unreciprocated expression is reasonably simple:
This sometimes goes by the mnemonic "product over sum".
For N equal resistors in parallel, the reciprocal sum expression simplifies to:
and therefore to:
To find the current in a component with resistance Ri, use Ohm's law again:
The components divide the current according to their reciprocal resistances, so, in the case of
two resistors,
An old term for devices connected in parallel is multiple, such as a multiple connection for
arc lamps.
Inductors
Inductors follow the same law, in that the total inductance of non-coupled inductors in parallel
is equal to the reciprocal of the sum of the reciprocals of their individual inductances:
Capacitors
Capacitors follow the same law using the reciprocals. The total capacitance of capacitors in parallel
is equal to the sum of their individual capacitances:
The working voltage of a parallel combination of capacitors is always limited by the smallest
working voltage of an individual capacitor.
Switches
Two or more switches in parallel, form a logical OR; the circuit carries current if at least one
switch is 'on'. See OR gate.
Cells and batteries
If the cells of a battery are connected in parallel, the battery voltage will be the same as the cell
voltage but the current supplied by each cell will be a fraction of the total current. For example, if
a battery contains four cells connected in parallel and delivers a current of 1 ampere, the current
supplied by each cell will be 0.25 ampere. Parallel-connected batteries were widely used to power
the valve filaments in portable radios but they are now rare.
DC Circuits
A DC circuit (Direct Current circuit) is an electrical circuit that consists of any combination of
constant voltage sources, constant current sources, and resistors. In this case, the circuit
voltages and currents are constant, i.e., independent of time.
In electronics, it is common to refer to a circuit that is powered by a DC voltage source such as

a battery or the output of a DC power supply as a DC circuit even though what is meant is that
the circuit is DC powered.
AC Circuits
In alternating current (AC) the movement of electric charge periodically reverses direction. In
direct current (DC), the flow of electric charge is only in one direction.
AC is the form in which electric power is delivered to businesses and residences. The usual
waveform of an AC power circuit is a sine wave. In certain applications, different waveforms are
used, such as triangular or square waves. Audio and radio signals carried on electrical wires are
also examples of alternating current. In these applications, an important goal is often the recovery
of information encoded (or modulated) onto the AC signal.
INFORMATION ELECTRONIC CIRCUITS N.C. LEVEL : II
Objectives:
Understand electronic circuits and components
Electronic circuit
An electronic circuit is composed of individual electronic components, such as resistors, transistors,

capacitors, inductors and diodes, connected by conductive wires or traces through which electric
current can flow. The combination of components and wires allows various simple and complex
operations to be performed: signals can be amplified, computations can be performed, and data
can be moved from one place to another. Circuits can be constructed of discrete components
connected by individual pieces of wire, but today it is much more common to create
interconnections by photolithographic techniques on a laminated substrate (a printed circuit board or
PCB) and solder the components to these interconnections to create a finished circuit. In an
Integrated Circuit or IC, the components and interconnections are formed on the same substrate,
typically a semiconductor such as silicon or (less commonly) gallium arsenide.
Breadboards, perfboards or stripboards are common for testing new designs. They allow the
designer to make quick changes to the circuit during development.
An electronic circuit can usually be categorized as an analog circuit, a digital circuit or a mixed-
signal circuit (a combination of analog circuits and digital circuits).
A circuit built on a printed circuit board (PCB)

Analog circuits
Analog electronic circuits are those in which current or voltage may vary continuously with time to
correspond to the information being represented. Analog circuitry is constructed from two
fundamental building blocks: series and parallel circuits. In a series circuit, the same current
passes through a series of components. A string of Christmas lights is a good example of a series
circuit: if one goes out, they all do. In a parallel circuit, all the components are connected to the
same voltage, and the current divides between the various components according to their
resistance.
A circuit diagram representing an analog circuit, in this case a simple amplifier.
The basic components of analog circuits are wires, resistors, capacitors, inductors, diodes, and
transistors. (Recently, memristors have been added to the list of available components.) Analog
circuits are very commonly represented in schematic diagrams, in which wires are shown as lines,
and each component has a unique symbol. Analog circuit analysis employs Kirchhoff's circuit laws:
all the currents at a node (a place where wires meet) must add to 0, and the voltage around a
closed loop of wires is 0. Wires are usually treated as ideal zero-voltage interconnections; any
resistance or reactance is captured by explicitly adding a parasitic element, such as a discrete
resistor or inductor. Active components such as transistors are often treated as controlled current
or voltage sources: for example, a field-effect transistor can be modeled as a current source from
the source to the drain, with the current controlled by the gate-source voltage.
When the circuit size is comparable to a wavelength of the relevant signal frequency, a more
sophisticated approach must be used. Wires are treated as transmission lines, with (hopefully)
constant characteristic impedance, and the impedances at the start and end determine transmitted
and reflected waves on the line. Such considerations typically become important for circuit boards
at frequencies above a GHz; integrated circuits are smaller and can be treated as lumped elements
for frequencies less than 10 GHz or so.
An alternative model is to take independent power sources and induction as basic electronic
units; this allows modeling frequency dependent negative resistors, gyrators, negative impedance
converters, and dependent sources as secondary electronic components.
Digital circuits
In digital electronic circuits, electric signals take on discrete values, to represent logical and
numeric values [3]. These values represent the information that is being processed. In the vast
majority of cases, binary encoding is used: one voltage (typically the more positive value)
represents a binary '1' and another voltage (usually a value near the ground potential, 0 V)
represents a binary '0'.
Digital circuits make extensive use of transistors, interconnected to create logic gates that provide
the functions of Boolean logic: AND, OR, NOT, and all possible combinations there of. Transistors
interconnected so as to provide positive feedback are used as latches and flip flops, circuits that
have two or more metastable states, and remain in one of these states until changed by an
external input. Digital circuits therefore can provide both logic and memory, enabling them to
perform arbitrary computational functions. (Memory based on flip-flops is known as SRAM (static
random access memory). Memory based on the storage of charge in a capacitor, DRAM (dynamic
random access memory) is also widely used.)
Digital circuits are fundamentally easier to design than analog circuits for the same level of
complexity, because each logic gate regenerates the binary signal, so the designer need not
account for distortion, gain control, offset voltages, and other concerns faced in an analog design.
As a consequence, extremely complex digital circuits, with billions of logic elements integrated on
a single silicon chip, can be fabricated at low cost. Such digital integrated circuits are ubiquitous in
modern electronic devices, such as calculators, mobile phone handsets, and computers.
Digital circuitry is used to create general purpose computing chips, such as microprocessors, and
custom-designed logic circuits, known as Application Specific Integrated Circuits (ASICs). Field
Programmable Gate Arrays (FPGAs), chips with logic circuitry whose configuration can be
modified after fabrication, are also widely used in prototyping and development.
Mixed-signal circuits
Mixed-signal or hybrid circuits contain elements of both analog and digital circuits. Examples include
comparators, timers, PLLs, ADCs (analog-to-digital converters), and DACs (digital-to-analog
converters). Most modern radio and communications circuitry uses mixed signal circuits. For
example, in a receiver, analog circuitry is used to amplify and frequency-convert signals so that they
reach a suitable state to be converted into digital values, after which further signal processing can
be performed in the digital domain.
Logic gates
Type Distinctive Shape Rectangular Boolean algebra Truth Table

Shape between A & B
INPUT OUTPUT
A B A AND B
AND AB
0 0 0
0 1 0
1 0 0
1 1 1
INPUT OUTPUT
A B A OR B
OR A+B 0 0 0
0 1 1
1 0 1
1 1 1
INPUT
NOT Ā OUTPUT A
NOT A
0 1
1 0
INPUT OUTPUT
A A NAND B
B
NAND 0 0
1
0 1
1
1 0
1
1 1
0
INPUT OUTPUT
A B A NOR B
NOR
0 0 1
0 1 0
1 0 0
1 1 0
INPUT OUTPUT
A B A XOR B
XOR
0 0 0
0 1 1
1 0 1
1 1 0
INPUT OUTPUT
A B A XNOR B
XNOR
0 0 1
0 1 0
1 0 0
1
All other types of Boolean logic gates (i.e., AND, OR, NOT, XOR, XNOR) can be created from a
suitable network of NAND gates. Similarly all gates can be created from a network of NOR
gates. Historically, NAND gates were easier to construct from MOS technology and thus NAND
gates served as the first pillar of Boolean logic in electronic computation.
The 7400 chip, containing four NANDs. The two additional pins supply power (+5 V) and connect
the ground.
INFORMATION ANALYSIS OF TROUBLES N.C. LEVEL : II
Objectives:
Analyze troubles
THREE MAJOR STEPS IN ELECTRONIC SYSTEM REPAIR
Three major steps are observed in most electronic system repair

procedures:
1. Evaluation of trouble symptoms, with preliminary diagnosis of

equipment, malfunction.
2. Testing of logical conclusions.
3. Repair of defect and verification of normal operation.
The first step involves careful observation of equipment response to input signals and
equipment reaction to variation of operating and maintenance controls. In turn, this preliminary
evaluation and diagnostic procedure will often lead the troubleshooter to probable or possible
causes of malfunction.
The second step comprises definitive tests of various logical conclusions that have been
established. These tests often include quick checks such as click tests and noise injection, as
detailed subsequently. Modules may be substituted. Systematic signal tracing or signal substitution
tests may be made. Eventually, all but one of the possible causes for malfunctions will be eliminated
– by specialized troubleshooting procedures, if necessary.
Then, the third step is taken: repair of defect(s) and final verification of system operation.
INFORMATION ANALYSIS OF TROUBLES N.C. LEVEL : II
INFORMATION MICROWAVE OVEN PRINCIPLES OF N.C. LEVEL : II
SHEETS 3.4.4 OPERATION CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 4
Objectives:
Explain how a microwave oven operates
How a microwave oven works
The operation of a microwave oven is really very simple. It consists of two parts: the controller and
the microwave generator.
A schematic diagram of the microwave generating circuitry and portions of the controller
is usually glued to the inside of the cover.
The controller is what times the cooking by turning the microwave energy on and off.
Power level is determined by the ratio of on time to off time in a 10-30 second cycle.
The microwave generator takes AC line power. steps it up to a high voltage, and applies this
to a special type of vacuum tube called a magnetron - little changed from its invention during World
War II (for Radar).
Controller
The controller usually includes a microcomputer, though very inexpensive units may simply
have a mechanical timer (which ironically, is probably more expensive to manufacture!). The
controller runs the digital clock and cook timer; sets microwave power levels; runs the display; and
in high performance ovens, monitors the moisture or temperature sensors.
Power level in most microwave ovens is set by pulse width control of the microwave
generator usually with a cycle that lasts 10-30 seconds. For example, HIGH will be continuous on,
MEDIUM may be 10 seconds on, 10 seconds off, and LOW may be 5 seconds on, 15 seconds
off.
The power ratios are not quite linear as there is a 1 to 3 second warmup period after
microwave power is switched on.
However, some models use finer control, even to the point of a continuous
range of power.
These are typically "inverter" models which use a more sophisticated type of power supply
than the simple high voltage transformer, capacitor, rectifier, system described below. However,
there have been some back in the 1970s that did this with a 1 second or so pulse width modulated
cycle, fast enough to have the same effect as continuous control for all practical purposes.
The operating voltages for the controller usually are derived from a stepdown
transformer.
The controller activates the microwave generating circuitry using either a relay or triac.
Sensors
More sophisticated ovens may include various sensors. Most common are probes for
temperature and moisture. A convection oven will include a temperature sensor above the
oven chamber.
Since these sensors are exposed to the food or its vapors, failures of the sensor
probes themselves are common.
Cooling fans
Since 30 to 50 percent of the power into a microwave oven is dissipated as heat in the
Magnetron, cooling is extremely important. Always inspect the cooling fan/motor for dust and dirt
and lubricate if necessary. A couple of drops of electric motor oil or 3-in-One will go a long way. If
there are any belts, inspect for deterioration and replace if necessary.
An oven that shuts off after a few minutes of operation could have a cooling problem, a
defective overtemperature thermostat, a bad magnetron, or is being operated from very high AC line
voltage increasing power to the oven.
One interesting note: Since 30 to 50 percent of the power goes out the vents in the back as
heat, a microwave oven is really only more efficient than conventional means such as a stovetop or
gas or electric oven for heating small quantities of anything. With a normal oven or stovetop,
wasted energy goes into heating the pot or oven, the air, and so on. However, this is relatively
independent of the quantity of food and may be considered to be a fixed overhead. Therefore, there
is a crossover point beyond which it is more efficient to use conventional heat than high tech
microwaves.
Microwave generator
This is the subsystem that converts AC line power into microwave energy. The majority of
microwave ovens use a brute force approach which consists of 5 parts: high voltage (HV)
transformer running off the AC line, HV rectifier diode, HV capacitor, magnetron, waveguide to oven
chamber. (A few employ solid state inverter in place of the simple HV transformer. These will be
discussed later.)
The most common microwave generator consists of the following:
 High Voltage Transformer. Typically has a secondary of around 2,000 VRMS at 0.5 to 1 amp
- more or less depending on the power rating of the oven. There will also be a low
voltage winding for the Magnetron filament (3.3 V at 10 A is typical).
You cannot miss this as it is the largest and heaviest component visible once the cover is
removed. There will be a pair of quick-connect terminals for the AC input, a pair of leads
for
the Magnetron filament. and a single connection for the HV output. The HV return will
be fastened directly to the transformer frame and thus the chassis.
These transformers are designed with as little copper as possible. The primary for 115
VAC
is typically only 120 turns of thick wire - thus about 1 turn per volt input and output (this is
about 1/4th as many turns as in a "normal" power transformer. (It's usually possible to
count the primary turns by examining how it is wound - no disassembly required!) So there
would be about 3 turns for the magnetron filament and 2080 turns for the high voltage
winding for the transformer mentioned above. The reason they can get away with so few
turns is that it operates fully loaded about 90 percent of the time but is still on the hairy
edge of core saturation. The HV components are actually matched to the HV transformer
characteristics. Performance will suffer if the uF value of a replacement HV capacitor is not
close to that of the original.
There is also generally a "magnetic shunt" in the core of the transformer. This provides
some
current limiting, possibly to compensate for various magnetron load conditions. However, it's
not enough to provide any reduction in the likelihood of electrocution should you come in
contact with the HV winding!
 Rectifier - usually rated 12,000 to 15,000 PRV at around 0.5 amp. Most commonly, this will
be rectangular or cylindrical, about 0.5 inch long with wire leads. Sometimes, it is a box
bolted to the chassis. One end will be electrically connected to the chassis.
 Capacitor - 0.65 to 1.2 uF at a working voltage of around 2,000 VAC. Note that this use of
'working voltage' may be deceiving as the actual voltage on the capacitor may exceed this
value during operation. The capacitor is metal cased with quick-connect terminals on top
(one end). Always discharge the capacitor as described below before touching anything
inside once the cover is removed.
 Magnetron - the microwave producing tube includes a heated filament cathode, multiple
resonant cavities with a pair of permanent ceramic ring magnets to force the electron beams
into helical orbits, and output antenna. The magnetron is most often box shaped with
cooling fins in its midsection, the filament/HV connections on the bottom section, and the
antenna (hidden by the waveguide) on top. Sometimes, it is cylindrical in shape but this is
less common. The frequency of the microwaves is usually 2.45 GHz.
When salvaging parts from dead microwave ovens, save the HV components (transformer,
capacitor, and diode) as a group (assuming all are still good). Then, if a repair is needed to
another oven it may be better to replace all 3 both because this eliminates uncertainty if more than
1 part failed or is marginal, and they will have been designed to have the best compatibility.
Magnetron construction and operation
A. Most magnetrons are constructed as a series of cylinders:

1. The outer cylinder is a permanent magnet
2. The middle cylinder is an anode with vanes or ridges in it that create
“resonant cavities”
3. The inner cylinder is a cathode with heating filament in the center
B. As high voltage is supplied to the magnetron from the transformer, the filament heats
the cathode
C. As the cathode is heated, it gives off electrons whose negative charges are attracted to
the anode which operates at a positive potential
D. The magnetic field around the anode repels the electrons so that they travel in a circular
path to reach the anode instead of traveling in a straight line as electrons normally
would
E. As the electrons moved in a rapid orbit from cathode to anode, they travel past the
resonant cavities in the anode and cause the cavities to vibrate at high frequency
F. The pulsating 2450 MHz frequency generated by the magnetron is picked up by the
antenna
and directed into a waveguide and on to a stirrer which distributes the microwave into
the oven cavity
Microwave generator circuit diagram
Nearly all microwave ovens use basically the same design for the microwave generator. This
has resulted in a relatively simple system manufactured at low cost.
The typical circuit is shown below. This is the sort of diagram you are likely to find pasted
inside the metal cover. Only the power circuits are likely included (not the controller unless it is a
simple motor driven timer) but since most problems will be in the microwave generator, this
schematic may be all you need.
Note the unusual circuit configuration - the magnetron is across the diode, not the capacitor
as in a 'normal' power supply. What this means is that the peak voltage across the magnetron is the
transformer secondary + the voltage across the capacitor, so the peaks will approach the peak-peak
value of the transformer or nearly 5000 V in the example above. This is a half wave voltage doubler.
The output waveform looks like a sinusoid with a p-p voltage equal to the p-p voltage of the
transformer secondary with its positive peaks at chassis ground (no load). The peaks are negative
with respect to the chassis. The negative peaks will get squashed somewhat under load. Take
extreme care - up to 5000 V at AMPs available! WARNING: Never attempt to view this waveform on
an oscilloscope unless you have a commercial high voltage probe and know how to use it safely!
The easiest way to analyze the half wave doubler operation is with the magnetron
(temporarily) removed from the circuit. Then, it becomes a simple half wave rectifier/filter so far
as the voltage acrtoss the capacitor is concerned - which will be approximately V(peak) = V(RMS)
*
1.414 where V(RMS) is the output of the high voltage transformer. The voltage across
the HV rectifier will then be: V(peak) + V where V is the waveform out of the transformer. The
magnetron
load, being across the HV diode, reduces the peak value of this somewhat - where
most of its conduction takes place.
Note that there is a difference in the labels on the filament connections of the magnetron.
Functionally, it probably doesn't matter which way they are connected. However, the typical
schematic (as above) shows FA going to the node attached to the Anode of the HV diode, while
F goes to the lone Filament terminal on the HV transformer.
WARNING: What this implies is that if the magnetron is not present or is not drawing
power
for some reason - like an open filament - up to V(peak) will still be present across the capacitor
when power is removed. At the end of normal operation, some of this will likely be discharged
immediately but will not likely go below about 2,000 V due to the load since the magnetron does
not conduct at low voltages.
Other types of power supplies have been used in a few models - including high frequency
inverters - but it is hard to beat the simplicity, low cost, and reliability of the half wave doubler
configuration.
There is also usually a bleeder resistor as part of the capacitor, not shown. HOWEVER:
DO NOT ASSUME THAT THIS IS SUFFICIENT TO DISCHARGE THE CAPACITOR - ALWAYS
DO THIS IF YOU NEED TO TOUCH ANYTHING IN THE MICROWAVE GENERATOR AFTER
THE
OVEN HAS BEEN POWERED. The bleeder may be defective and open as this does
not effect operation of oven and/or the time constant may be long - minutes. Some ovens may
not have a bleeder at all.
In addition, there will likely be an over-temperature thermostat - thermal
protector -
somewhere in the primary circuit, often bolted to the magnetron case. There may also be a
thermal fuse or other protector physically elsewhere but in series with the primary to the high
voltage transformer.
Other parts of the switched primary circuit include the oven interlock switches, cooling
fan, turntable motor (if any), oven light, etc.
Interlock switches
Various door interlock switches prevent inadvertent generation of microwaves unless the
door is closed completely. At least one of these will be directly in series with the transformer
primary so that a short in the relay or triac cannot accidentally turn on the microwaves with the door
open.
The interlocks must be activated in the correct sequence when the door is closed or
opened.
Interestingly, another interlock is set up to directly short the power line if it is activated in an
incorrect sequence. The interlocks are designed so that if the door is correctly aligned, they will
sequence correctly. Otherwise, a short will be put across the power line causing the fuse to blow
forcing the oven to be serviced. This makes it more difficult for an ignorant consumer to just
bypass the door interlocks should they fail or to run the oven with an open door as a room heater -
and protects the manufacturer from lawsuits. (That interlock may be known as a "dummy switch"
for obvious reasons and is often not even mentioned in the schematic/parts manifest.) Of course,
should that switch ever actually be used, not only will the fuse blow, but the switch contacts will
likely be damaged by the high initial current! This also means it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to
replace the interlock switch which might have been affected if your oven fails with a blown fuse due
to a door problem.
Failed door interlocks account for the majority of microwave oven problems - perhaps as
high as 75 percent. This is not surprising considering that two of the three switches carry the full
oven current - any deterioration of the contacts results in increased resistance leading to their
heating and further deterioration. And, opening the door to interrupt a cook cycle results in arcing
at the contacts. Complete meltdowns are not unusual! If any defective door switches are found, it is
probably a good idea to replace all of them as long as the oven is already apart.
The typical door switches and their function:
 Door Sensing: Input to the microcontroller to indicate the state of the door.
 Interlock Monitor: Shorts out the AC line (and blows the main fuse) should the
Primary Interlock not open due to incorrect sequencing of the door switches or a
failed switch.
 Primary Interlock: In series with the high voltage (magnetron) power supply so cuts
power when the door is open.
Note that if the Door Sensing switch should malfunction, peculiar behavior may occur (like the fan
or
turntable operating at the wrong time) but should never result in microwaves being generated
with the door open.
INFORMATION MICROWAVE OVEN PARTS AND N.C. LEVEL : II
SHEETS 3.4.5 COMPONENT PLACEMENT CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 4
Objective(s):
Upon completion of these information sheet(s), you will be able to:
Identify and locate different oven components.
2 1
3 5
1. Fuse
2. Cavity thermal
protector
3. Cavity light
4. Blower fan blades
5. Magnetron
8
9
6 7
6. Interlock switches
7. Blower fan motor
8. Transformer
9. Capacitor
10
10. Digital control board and components

11
11. Diode
12 13
14
12. Front see through glass

13. Turntable tray
14. Digital control pads
15
15. Turntable motor

SELF CHECK MAINTAIN/REPAIR INDUSTRIAL N.C. LEVEL : II
3.4.1 ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 4
YES NO
1. I can apply principles of electrical/electronic circuits
2. I can apply microwave oven principles of operation
3. I can identify microwave oven parts
4. I can analyze microwave oven troubles
N.C. LEVEL : II
RE-ASSEMBLE AND TEST
INTRODUCTION
REPAIRED CONSUMER CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 5
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS

Unit of Competency :
Re-Assemble and Test Repaired Industrial Electronics Products

Learning Outcome #5 :
1. Materials, tools and instruments needed in troubleshooting repair and cleaning are
selected and checked in accordance with established procedures
2. Isolation of troubles are performed with proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and
following the Occupational Health and Safety (OHS) practices
3. Troubles are isolated by following the systematic procedures and using proper
instruments in accordance with the prescribed instructions
4. Defective parts/components are replaced with identical or recommended appropriate
equivalent ratings and soldered/mounted in accordance with the current industry
standards
5. Control settings/adjustments of repaired unit are performed in conformity with
service- manual specifications
6. Cleaning of unit is performed in accordance with standard procedures
7. Periodical tests of the repaired unit are maintained and documented according to
standard procedures
8. Repaired units are reassembled completely and waste materials are disposed of in
accordance with environmental require
9. Results of troubleshooting and repair are documented properly within the specified time.
Resources:
TOOLS EQUIPMENT MATERIALS
 Long-nosed pliers  Multimeter  Solder lead
 Diagonal cutters  Oscilloscope  Cleaning brush lead
 Standard screwdrivers  Function generator free solder
 Soldering iron, 30w  Electronically controlled  Resin core solder
Desoldering iron, 30w unit(s)/appliance(s) and  Wire stranded, #22,
 Screw driver assorted, accessories different colors)
Phillips, slotted  Audio unit(s) and  Silicon grease
 Wrenches assorted accessories  Resistors (different
 Allen wrench/key  Video unit(s) and values)
 Utility knife/stripper accessories  Capacitors (different
 Pliers assorted, long  ESD free work bench with values)
nose, side cutter mirror back-to-back/one  Transformer
 Test jig sided
 High grade magnifying Learning materials
glass with lamp  Books and References
 TV pattern generator  Technical manuals
 High voltage probe  Documentation forms
 Report forms
N.C. LEVEL : II
RE-ASSEMBLE AND TEST
INTRODUCTION
REPAIRED CONSUMER CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 5
ELECTRONICS PRODUCTS
Domestic appliances may include but not limited to the following:

 Washing machines and driers
 Vacuum cleaners and polishers
 Home food processing equipment
 Pressure and rice cooker
 Blender, coffee maker
 Toaster, waffle maker
 Microwave oven
 Electronic clock
 Flat irons and presses
 Rechargeable light
 Electronic controlled light
 Home security equipment
INFORMATION TROUBLESHOOTING COMPONENTS N.C. LEVEL : II
Objectives:
Troubleshoot electronic components
When a defective has been isolated the next problem is to pinpoint the specific
component or parts presumably defective or totally inoperable.
The following are components together with the corresponding faults and how they
are
tested.
Resistor
Faults Incurred/Indication Test Procedure/Applied Remedy
Burnt body loose end caps broken body Faults are usually visible to the eye and no test
equipment is needed. equipment is needed.
- use a VOM only for assurance
- replace resistor with identical rating
Resistance goes out of tolerance Check resistance with a VOM

Replace resistance goes beyond the tolerable
limit
Three common forms of resistor failure
Potentiometer
Faults Incurred/Indication Test Procedure/Applied Remedy
Intermittent Continuity Test nominal value of potentiometer using VOM.

Rotate shaft clockwise to determine the steady
increasing or decreasing value of resistance.
If there is jarring movement of the needle the pot
contact area is defective.
- Replace with a new identical value
a) Ohmmeter should indicate he nominal value of the pot; b) Rotating the shaft clockwise will
cause the resistance reading to drop.
Capacitor (electrolytic)
When you observed carefully the meters needle movement. If it deflects toward the right
side scale (zero-scale) then return to its initial position, then return to its initial position, the capacitor
under test is diagnosed to be good.
Faults Incurred/Indication Test Procedure/Applied Remedy Open circuited
If no needle deflection is observed at all.
Short circuited If the needle deflects near at the zero

ohm scale
Leaky If the needle deflects toward the right sidescale
but does not return fully to its initial position
Note: The VOM used here is analogue type. For digital type meter, open, short, or leaky
capacitance is presented figures. Skills proficiency in interpreting numerical values
needed.
Accurate values of capacitance are determined more easily using a digital
capacitance
meter.
Erroneous interpretation can also happen if the probes polarity is incorrectly positioned when
testing polarized capacitor.
A capacitor can be determined if it is leaky, open, or shorted by using a VOM as shown.

Diode
Semiconductor diodes are commercially available in wide variety of packaging style

designed to suit different specific requirements. Regardless of their appearance, however, they
function in very much the same way, hence can be tested in the same manner.
The ohmmeter function of the VOM is again utilized. If the ohmmeter probe is connected
with the diode (a), a low resistance reading is obtained. If connected (b), a very high resistance
should be obtained. In most cases, no needle deflection should be observed at all. Otherwise, the
diode could be leaky. (Remember, don’t touch any exposed part of the probe tip.) Note that
germanium diodes exhibit small amount of leakage current which is normal for this type of
diodes.
Light Emitting Diode (LED)
A light emitting diode is a derivative of the semiconductor diode, hence, it is tested in very
much the same way. There is just one additional thing which must be noted when testing a LED –
the brightness of light it emits. If the VOM used has an open circuit terminal voltage of at least 3
volts and can source at least 25 mA current, it will light the led as well while being tested as
shown below.
Zener Diode
It is a special type designed to operate on its reverse breakdown region. Zener diodes
are also tested out of circuit in the same manner as in the semiconductor diode.
A better method of testing zener diode is by actually measuring the voltage that
appears
across it while in circuit. This voltage should match with the nominal rating of the zener
diode, give or take the maximum allowable tolerance.
Note: Not all circuits use a zener diode in constant breakdown mode. In which case the
voltage across the diode will not correspond with its nominal rating.
Transistors
A transistor can be viewed as two diodes connected back to back. In fact, you can test
one out-of-circuit using the diode test procedure.
Testing a transistor out of circuit is a 6-step process in which each of the “diode” junction is
tested for its forward and reverse resistance. A good transistor should give the readings as
indicated.
Note: The collector – emitter junction must give a very high resistance in both test polarity.
Some power transistors, particularly germanium types, exhibit a relatively low resistance in
the collector emitter junction in one or both probe polarity. This is because of the moderate amount
of collector emitter leakage current of these devices. (Consult with the manufacturer specification
of the transistor to determine the allowable collector emitter leakage current.) The reading may be
low but it should not be too close to the zero-ohm mark. If it hits the zero-ohm mark , the transistor
is shorted.
In circuit testing of transistors is also possible, often times more practical. As shown in
the figure, the transistor can be checked by noting the voltage appearing across each terminals.
A transistor biased in its linear region (i.e. amplifiers) should yield voltage readings as shown.
Still another method of in-circuit transistor testing is shown in the figure below. If the base
emitter junction of the transistor will switch off, causing the collector-emitter voltage to swing
towards the VCC level. If a 220-ohm resistor is shunted across the collector base junction of the
transistor, the transistor will be driven into full conduction, causing the collector-emitter voltage to
drop near zero-volt. Caution: Never perform this test procedure on power transistors and similar
power circuits. If the transistor does not respond to the tests as indicated, check first its
associated components, particularly the electrolytic capacitors. If the symptoms are all good, the
transistor is diagnosed to be defective and should be replaced. Finally, it should be noted that
these in-circuit test procedure can be applied only when the transistor is operated in its linear
operating region.
Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR)
SCR is another special type of diode used mainly for power control circuits. Small to
medium power SCRs can be tested with an ohmmeter. Initially, (a) no resistance reading should be
noted at all as the ohmmeter’s probe is attached to the SCR’s A-K terminals; (b) shorting the gate
G terminal with the anode A terminal will cause the SCR to conduct, in effect, a near-zero ohm
resitance reading. Even as the shorting wire is removed (c), the ohmmeter should remain on its
present reading.
Repeat the procedure with the probe polarity reversed. No resistance reading should
be observed in any part of this test.
Note: Ohmmeter short circuit current must be greater than 100

mA. Ohmmeter setting:Rx1
Triac
A triac is equivalent to two SCRs connected back to back. This means the procedure used
in testing the SCR also applies here.
Testing a Triac
Perform the test procedure as in the SCR, with the probe applied to the MT1 and
MT2 terminals of the triac.
You should observe similar result as in the SCR test. Reverse the probe and
polarity and
repeat the test. Unlike with the SCR, the triac should act the same as when the probe
polarity was not yet reverse.
INFORMATION MICROWAVE OVEN N.C. LEVEL : II
SHEETS 3.5.2 TROUBLESHOOTING CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 5
Objective(s):
Upon completion of these information sheet(s), you will be able to:
Troubleshoot microwave oven problems.
The most common problems occur in the microwave generating portion of the system,
though the controller can be blown by a lightning strike or other power surge. Bad interlock switches
probably account for the majority of microwave oven problems. Also, since the touchpad is
exposed, there is a chance that it can get wet or damaged. If wet, a week or so of non-use may
cure keys that don't work. If damaged, it will probably need to be replaced - this is straightforward if
the part can be obtained, usually direct from the manufacturer.
The interlock switches, being electromechanical can fail to complete the primary circuit on an
oven which appears to operate normally with no blown fuses but no heat as well. Faulty interlocks
or
a misaligned door may result in the fuse blowing as described above due to the incorrect
sequencing of the door interlock switches. Failed interlocks are considered to be the most
common problems with microwave ovens, perhaps as high as 75% of all failures.
General system problems
The following problems are likely power or controller related and not in the microwave
generator unless due to a blown fuse or bad/intermittent connections:
 Totally dead oven.
 No response to any buttons on touchpad
 Oven runs when door is still open.
 Oven starts on its own as soon as door
 is closed.
 Oven works but display is blank.
 Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
 Erratic behavior.
 Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong
action. Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
First, unplug the microwave oven for a couple of minutes. Sometimes, the microcontroller will get
into a whacko mode for some unknown reason - perhaps a power surge - and simply needs to
be reset. The problem may never reoccur.
Note: when working on controller related problems, unplug the connection to the microwave
generator (HV transformer primary) from the power relay or triac - it is often a separate connector.
This will prevent any possible accidental generation of microwave energy as well as eliminating the
high voltage (but not the AC line) shock hazard during servicing.
If this does not help, there is likely a problem with the controller circuitry or its power and you
will have to get inside the oven.
Totally dead oven
1. Check power to the outlet using a lamp or radio you know works. The fuse or circuit breaker
at your service panel may have blown/tripped due to an overload or fault in the microwave
oven or some other appliance. You may just have too many appliances plugged into this
circuit - microwave ovens are high current appliances and should be on a dedicated circuit
if
possible. If you attempt to run a heating appliance like a toaster or fryer at the same time,
you *will* blow the fuse or trip the circuit breaker. A refrigerator should never be plugged
into the same circuit for this reason as well - you really don't want it to be without power
because of your popcorn!
If you find the fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped, unplug everything from the circuit to
which the microwave is connected (keep in mind that other outlets may be fed from the
same circuit). Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. If the same thing happens
again, you have a problem with the outlet or other wiring on the same branch circuit. If
plugging in the microwave causes the fuse to blow or circuit breaker to trip immediately,
there is a short circuit in the power cord or elsewhere.
The microwave oven may be powered from a GFCI outlet or downstream of one and the
GFCI may have tripped. (Removing a broken oven lamp has been known to happen.) The
GFCI outlet may not be in an obvious location but first check the countertop outlets. The
tripped GFCI could be in the garage or almost anywhere else! Pushing the RESET
button may be all that's needed.
2. Try to set the clock. With some ovens the screen will be totally blank following a power
outage - there may be nothing wrong with it. Furthermore, some ovens will not allow
you perform any cooking related actions until the clock is set to a valid time.
Assuming these are not your problems, a fuse has probably blown although a dead
controller is a possibility.
If the main fuse is upstream of the controller, then any short circuit in the microwave
generator will also disable the controller and display. If this is the case, then putting in a new
fuse will enable the touchpad/display to function but may blow again as soon as a cook cycle
is initiated if there is an actual fault in the microwave circuits.
Therefore, try a new fuse. If this blows immediately, there may be a short very near the line
cord, in the controller, or a defective triac (if your oven uses a triac). Or, even a shorted oven
lamp - remove and inspect the light bulb and socket.
If it does not blow, initiate a cook cycle (with a cup of water inside). If the oven now works,
the fuse may simply have been tired of living. This is common.
If the fuse still blows immediately, confirm that the controller is operational by unplugging the
microwave generator, power relay, and/or triac from the controller. If a new fuse does not
now blow when a cook cycle is initiated - and it appears to operate normally - then one of
the components in the microwave generator is defective (shorted).
Some models have a thermal fuse as well and this may have failed for no reason or a cooling
fan may not be working and the oven overheated (in which case it probably would have
died while you were cooking something for an important guest - assuming you would use
a microwave oven for such a thing!).
Other possible causes: bad controller power supply or bad controller chip.
Totally dead oven after repair
On some microwave ovens, there is at least one cabinet screw that is slightly longer than all the
others. This engages a safety interlock which prevents the oven from receiving power if the correct
screw is missing or in the wrong hole. Check the length of all the screws and locate the interlock
switch behind one of the screw holes. I don't know how common this practice is but have heard of
it on some Sharp models.
Of course, any number of other pre-existing or induced problems can result in the oven playing
dead after it has been "repaired".
Dead controller
The most common way that the controller circuitry can be harmed is by a power surge such as
from a lightning strike. Hopefully, only components on the primary side of the power transformer will
be affected.
 Check the primary of the power transformer - if it is open, there may be a fuse/thermal
fuse underits outer insulation. If not, the transformer will need to be replaced. There is a
good chance that the surge didn't propagate beyond the transformer and thus the rest of
the controlled should be unaffected.
 In some cases, circuit board traces may have been vaporized (but repair may still be
possible by simply jumpering across the crater). Some of these thin traces may be
there
 specifically to act as fuses - and there may even be spares to use for just this situation!
Assuming that the main fuse and power transformer primary checks out, then check
the
power supply for the controller next.
 controller
If the power
As always, supply
also check for is working
bad and there is still no sign of life (dead display and no
solder connections.
response to buttons) the microcontroller chip or some other part may be bad. It could be a simple
part like a capacitor or diode, but they would all need to be tested. At this point, a schematic of
the controller board will be needed - often impossible to get - and replacement controller or even
just the main chip may be nearly as expensive as a complete new oven.
No response to any buttons on touchpad
There can be many causes for this behavior (or lack of behavior):
 Door is not closed - on many ovens, there will be no response to any buttons - even
setting the clock - unless the door is securely closed.
 You waited too long - some models (like Sharp) have a timeout. If you close the door but
don't proceed to activate any functions with a couple of minutes, they will require you to
open and close the door to reset their pathetic brains.
 Controller is confused - a power surge or random non-reproducible action of the universe
may have resulted in the controller's program ending up in an infinite loop. Pull the plug for a
minute or two to reset it.
 Defective interlock switches - this can result in the controller thinking the door is open
and ignoring you.
 Faulty controller or its power supply - a power surge may have damaged the
electronics. Other than checking for bad connections and obviously bad power supply
components, diagnosing this will be tough without a schematic (and possibly much
more).
 Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning - if you recently
power washed the oven (or even if you only use some spray cleaner), some may have
gotten inside and shorted out the touchpad or controller.
 Defective or damage touchpad - physical abuse is not a recommended technique for getting
a microwave oven to cooperate. If there is any visible damage to the touchpad - the outer film
is broken - it will probably need to be replaced.
Oven runs when door is still open
WARNING: Needless to say, DO NOT operate the oven with the door open! While extremely
unlikely, the microwave generator could be running!
For microwaves to actually be generated with the door still open would require the failure of all 3
interlock switches. The only way this could really happen would be for the 'fingers' from the door
that engage the interlocks to break off inside the oven keeping the interlocks engaged. In this case,
the controller would think the door was always closed.
Where no such damage is evident, a failure of this type is extremely unlikely since power to the
microwave generator passes through 2 of the 3 interlock switches. If both of these failed in the
closed position, the third switch would have blown the fuse the last time the door was opened.
Another more benign possibility is that one or more fans are running as a result of either a
defective sensor or normal operation to maintain air flow until all parts have cooled off.
Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed
If the oven starts up as soon as the door is closed - regardless of whether a cook cycle has
been selected, the cause could be a shorted triac or relay or a problem with the controller or
touchpad.
1. Unplug the oven for a couple of minutes to try to reset the controller.
If this doesn't help, put a cup of water into the oven and let it run for a minute to check for
heating. (You could also note the normal sound change or slight dimming of lights that
accompanies operation of the magnetron.) Much more must be enabled to actually
power the magnetron so this might point more to the controller as being faulty but not
always.
Oven works but totally dead display
If all functions work normally including heating but the display is blank (assuming you can issue
them without being able to see the display), the problem is almost certainly in the controller or
its power supply.
Try pulling the plug for a minute or two - for some reason the display portion of the controller
may have been sent out to lunch by a power surge or alpha particle. It wouldn’t be the first time.
Check for bad connections between the display panel and the power supply and solder joints on
the
controller board.
With everything else operational, a bad microcontroller chip is not that likely but is still a possibility. If
the oven was physically abused, the display panel may have fractured though it would take quite a
bit of violence. In this case, more serious damage to the door seals may have resulted as well
which would be a definite hazard.
Whacked out controller or incorrect operation
The following are some of the possible symptoms:
 All the display digits may have come on, EEEE or FFFF, or be displaying in Greek.
 The end-of-cooking cycle or key press tone may be wailing away continuously. (By 'tone' I
mean from the controller (not a low buzzing or humming when attempting to cook which
would indicate a microwave generator power problem like a shorted magnetron).
 Pressing a button on the touchpad may result in a totally incorrect action such as entering
the time resulting in the oven starting to cook. However, for the special case where pressing
START results in erratic behaviors.
 The oven may start cooking (or at least appear to) as soon as the door is closed. Pressing
buttons on the touchpad may or may not have any effect. (This could also be a shorted triac
or power relay).

First, try unplugging the oven for a couple of minutes - perhaps the controller is just confused due
to a power surge, lightning strike or the EMP from a nearby nuclear detonation because it wanted
attention.
If you recently cleaned the oven, some liquid may have accidentally gotten inside the touchpad
or even the controller circuitry (though this is less likely).
If the oven seems to have a mind of its own - running a cycle you didn't think you programmed, are
you sure a previous cook cycle was not interrupted and forgotten? Try to recreate the problem
using a cup of water as a load.
Assuming this does not apply, it sounds like a controller problem - possibly just a power supply but
could also be the controller chip.
Erratic behavior
There are three different situation:
 Whenever the oven performs unexpectedly both during setup and the cook cycle, suspect
the controller power supply or bad connections.
 Where problems only occur when entering or during the cook cycle, suspect a power relay
or mechanical timer (if used) with dirty or worn contacts, or (less likely) the power surge
from energizing the microwave generator or microwave (RF) leakage into the electronics
bay affecting the controller.
The filter capacitor(s) in the controller's power supply may be dried up or faulty. Check with a
capacitor meter or substitute known good ones. Prod the logic board to see if the problem
comes and goes. Reseat the flex cable connector to the touchpad.
For mechanical timers, the timing motor could be defective or require lubrication. The contacts
could be dirty or worn. There may be bad connections or loose lugs.
The primary relay may have dirty or burnt contacts resulting in erratic operation. If the oven uses
a HV relay for power control, this may be defective.
If the times and power levels appear on the display reliably but then become scrambled when
entering the cook cycle or the oven behaves strangely in some other way when entering the
cook cycle, there are several possibilies:
 The power surge caused by the cook cycle starting is resulting in changes to the settings or
else the microcontroller is not interpreting them properly. This may be due to a faulty part of
bad connections in the controller or elsewhere. As with intermittent problems, a thorough
search for loose ground and other connections and bad solder joints may locate the source
of the difficulty.
 Microwave (RF) leakage into the electronics bay due to an faulty joint between the
magnetron and the waveguide or structure failure of the magnetron may be interfering with
the operation of the microcontroller. Unless the oven was dropped or 'repaired' by an
butcher, this sort of failure is unlikely. If you suspect either of these, inspect the integrety of
the magnetron- waveguide joint and make sure the RF gasket is in place. Unfortunately, this
is sometimes difficult to pinpoint because unless there is obvious mechanical damage, the
'problem' may disappear once the cover is removed for testing.
 On rare occasions, the main fuse may become intermittent rather than failing completely. The
surge or vibration of starting can jiggle the element open or closed. It is easy to try replacing
it!
Some of the keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action
Touchpads are normally quite reliable in the grand scheme of things but can fail as a result of
physical damage (your spouse threw the roast at the oven), liquid contamination (from
overzealous cleaning, for example), or for no reason at all.
Look carefully for any visible signs of damage or spills. The touchpads often use pressure sensitive
resistive elements which are supposed to be sealed. However, any damage or just old age may
permit spilled liquid to enter and short the sensors. A week or so of drying may cure these
problems. If there is actual visible damage, it may be necessary to replace the touchpad unit,
usually only available from the original manufacturer. Also, check the snap type connector where
the touchpad flex-cable plugs into the controller board. Reseating this cable may cur a some keys
dead problem. Some people have reported at least temporary improvement by simple peeling the
touch pad off of the front panel and flexing it back and forth a few times. Presumably, this dislodges
some bit of contamination. I am skeptical as this could just be a side effect of a bad connection
elsewhere.
With a little bit of effort (or perhaps a lot of effort), the internal circuitry of the touchpad can be
determined. This may require peeling it off of the front panel). Then, use resistors to jumper
the
proper contacts on the flex cable connector to simulate key presses. This should permit
the functions to be verified before a new touchpad is ordered.
Caution: unplug the microwave generator from the controller when doing this sort of
experiment! If the problem was the result of a spill into the touchpad, replacement will probably
be needed.
However, if you have nothing to lose, and would dump it otherwise, remove the touchpad entirely
and wash it in clean water in an effort to clear out any contamination, then do the same using
high purity alcohol to drive out the water, and then dry it out thoroughly. This is a long shot but
might
work.
Microwave oven does not respond to START button
While all other functions operate normally including clock, cook time, and power setting,
pressing START does nothing, including no relay action and the timer digits do not count down.
It is as though the START button is being totally ignored.
If there is an alternate way of activating the cook cycle, try it. Use this to confirm the basic
controller logic and interlock circuitry. If it works, then the problem may indeed be a faulty START
button. If it is also ignored, then there may be a bad interlock or some other problem with the
controller.
Check for bad interlocks or interlocks that are not being properly activated.
Next confirm if possible that the START touch pad button is not itself faulty. If you can locate the
matrix connections for this button, the resistance should go down dramatically (similar to the
other buttons). The START button does, after all, sees quite a lot of action!
Assuming it is not the touch pad, it sounds like the controller is either not sensing the start
command or refusing to cooperate for some reason - perhaps it thinks an interlock is open.
Otherwise, the
timer would start counting. Testing the relay or triac control signal will likely show that it is not there.
Check that there are no missing power supply voltages for the controller and bad connection.
Microwave generator problems
Failures in the microwave generator can cause various symptoms including:
 No heat but otherwise normal operations.

 Fuse blows when closing or opening door.
 Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
 Arcing in or above oven chamber.
 Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
 Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
 Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
 Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
 Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.

 Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
No heat but otherwise normal operation
If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the
line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if
the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started.
There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are
located down stream of the fuse.
Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but
no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:
 Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary
circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the
magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent
contact.
 Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should
read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
 Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in
either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as
a dead short - near zero ohms.
 Open HV capacitor - A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
 Open HV diode
 Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated
press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem.
 Open winding in HV transformer
 Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than
the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective
coil, or bad connections
 Shorted HV diode
 Short or other fault in the magnetron.
 Short in certain portions of the HV wiring.
A shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a
loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse
- not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)
Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including
a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.
Fuse blows when closing or opening door
This means that the main fuse in the microwave (or less commonly, the fuse or circuit breaker
for the power outlet) pops when the microwave oven door is closed or opened. This may be
erratic, occurring only 1 out of 10 times, for example.
The cause is almost certainly related to either the door interlock switches or the door itself.
Marginal door alignment, broken 'fingers' which operate the switches, dislocated parts in the
interlock mechanism, or a defective interlock switch may result in either consistent or erratic
behavior of this
type.
On some ovens, this can happen at any time regardless of the control panel settings or whether
the oven is in the cook cycle or not. On others, it can only happen when interrupting the cook cycle
by
opening the door or when initiating the cook cycle from the front panel (if the switches are in
the wrong state).
The rational for this basic design - some form of which is used in virtually all microwave ovens -
is
that a defect in the interlock switches or door alignment, which might result in dangerous
microwave radiation leakage, will produce a hard permanent failure. This will prevent the oven from
being used until it is inspected and repaired.
 As noted, one of the interlock switches is actually across the power line. If the switches are
activated in the wrong sequence due to a misaligned door, that switch will not turn off before
the other switches turn on shorting the power line. Similarly, if its contacts are welded closed,
the power line will be shorted when the other switches close.
 Inspect the door, its mounting, and the plastic 'fingers' which operate the interlock switches
as well. Again, if the sequence is not correct, the power line will be shorted blowing the fuse.
If the oven was dropped, then such damage is quite likely. Look for broken or dislocated
parts, warpage, and other indications of problems with the door and interlock mechanism Of
course, if the oven was dropped, there could be much more extensive internal damage as
well.
Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook
A loud abnormal hum is an indication of a short somewhere. The sound may originate from the HV
transformer vibrating and/or from within the magnetron depending on cause. There may be a
burnt odor associated with this behavior:
 Shorted HV diode
 Shorted magnetron (filament to anode) or other internal fault in the magnetron. Arcing
within the Magnetron case (visible through ventilation holes in the bottom section) is
usually an indication of a bad magnetron.
Note that a short on the load side of the HV capacitor will likely result in the actual wattage drawn
from the power line being much lower than under normal conditions. Although there will be a high
current flowing in the HV transformer secondary through the HV capacitor (which is what causes
the hum orbuz), the real power consumed will be reduced since the current and voltage will be out
of phase (due to the series capacitor) and the power factor will be low. A reading on an AC line
wattmeter of 300 W compared to the normal 1,200 to 1,500 W would be reasonable.
 Other short resulting from frayed insulation or wires touching in the microwave generator.
 Shorted HV transformer
 Short resulting from burnt on food (usually) in or around the waveguide. If the odor is
coming from the oven chamber.
The following procedure will quickly identify the most likely component if the problem is
not food/spills/carbon related:
1. Discharge HV capacitor! (If there is a short it is doubtful if it has any charge but never
hurts to be safe).
2. Remove one end of the lead from the HV capacitor to the transformer.
3. Start the oven.
 Hum gone? If so, it is the HV circuitry, go to step 4.
 If it still hums you probably have a faulty HV Transformer. (Not uncommon.)
4. Discharge the HV capacitor again, reconnect wire and disconnect the 2 wires to
the magnetron.
5. Restart oven.
 Hum Gone? If so, magnetron is shorted. Replace or get a new oven.

 Hum still there? If so, go to step 6.
6. You have either
 Shorted HV capacitor,
 Shorted HV Diode,
 Shorted clamp diode across the HV Cap terminals (if one is present, about 30% of
microwave ovens use these). (The oven will run 100% without this protection for the
HV capacitor but it should be replaced if possible.)
Arcing in or above oven chamber
There is often a simple cause:
 Arcing in the oven chamber with a normal load (a cup of water, for example), often just
indicates that a thorough cleaning of the oven chamber is needed, particularly around and
inside/above the waveguide cover. Any food that gets trapped here will eventually burn and
carbonize resulting in a focal point for further arcing. Usually, the waveguide cover is designed
to be removable without taking the (cabinet) cover off of the oven. However, burnt food and
carbon often make this difficult so that some disassembly will be required. Clean the
waveguide cover and clean inside the waveguide as well. Trim to fit with a pair of heavy duty
scissors, metal snips, or a paper cutter. The oven will work fine without it but replacement will
prevent contamination of the waveguide with food vapors or splatters which can lead to more
expensive damage. Take extra care to cover all food (which you should do anyhow) until the
waveguide cover is replaced.
 Any sharp metal edges may also result in arcing or sparking. However, the only way
such damage could occur as part of the oven (not added knives or forks!) would be
through physical abuse.
 If your oven uses a stirrer above the oven chamber (no turntable), it may be stuck. The result
will be an uneven distribution of microwave energy and localized heating, arcing, and possibly
melting plastic or metal.
 Flashing and sparking may also result from the stirrer/fan blades contacting the
metal surrounding it due to the motor/bearings becoming loose or dislodged.
Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle
The fuse may only blow when actually attempting to cook but depending on design, triacs
and/or door switches may always be live and may result in a blown fuse at any time when
plugged in or when the door is opened or closed.
The following can cause the fuse to blow (in approximate order of likelihood):
 Defective interlock switches or misaligned door. At least one of the interlock switches is
across the power line and will blow the fuse if not activated in the correct sequence. See
the sections: "Fuse blows when closing or opening door" and "Testing and replacing of
interlock switches".
 Shorted HV capacitor.
 Shorted HV diode (see note below).
 Shorted magnetron (filament to anode - see note below).
 Defective triac (shorted or partially shorted).
 Old age or power surge. Fuses sometimes blow for no apparent reason.
 Defective HV transformer shorted windings.
 Shorted wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing quality.
Note that a shorted magnetron or shorted HV diode - which you would think should blow the fuse -
probably will not do so because current will be limited by the impedance of the HV capacitor
(assuming it is not shorted as well). However, there will likely be a loud hum from the HV
transformer as it strains under the excess load. Such a sound in conjunction with no heat is a likely
symptom of a shorted magnetron or HV diode. If your oven has a separate high voltage fuse -
somewhat rare in domestic ovens - it may certainly blow due to a fault in any of the HV
components. Fuses also die of old age. The types of fuses used in microwave ovens are subjected
to a heavy load and you may find that all that is needed is to replace the fuse with one with
equivalent ratings. (but check for shorts first). There could be an intermittent problem as well which
will only show up at some random time in the future. A poorly timed power surge (as opposed to the
well timed variety) could also weaken the fuse element resulting in eventual failure.
The fuses used in microwave ovens are usually ceramic 1-1/4" x 1/4" 15 or 20 A 250 V fast
blow type. Replace with exactly the same type and rating.
Another possible cause of a blown fuse is a partially bad triac. Some ovens use a triac rather
than a
relay to control the main power to the high voltage transformer. One type of failure of a triac is for it
to be totally shorted causing the oven to come on whenever the door is closed. Alternatively, the
gate may be defective preventing the triac from ever turning on. A third, and most interesting
possibility, is that one half of the triac is bad - shorted or open, or doesn't turn on or turn off reliably.
Recall that a triac is in effect a pair of SCRs in parallel in opposite directions. If one side is defective,
the main fuse will blow due to transformer core saturation since the triac will act as a rectifier and
transformers really do not like DC.
Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle)
This could be due to a number of faults including shorting wires or defective relay. However, a
common cause that might not be obvious is that the triac used to switch power to the high voltage
transformer is faulty. What is probably happening is that only one half of the triac (recall that a triac
is controlled for both polarities of the line voltage/current) is turning off completely resulting in DC to
the HV transformer, core saturation, and excessive current which blows the fuse. Drive to the triac
could also be marginal but the bad triac is more likely.
Exactly how a bad relay could result in these symptoms unless it was actually arcing and shorting
is unclear. However, there is anecdotal evidence to suggest that inspecting the relay contacts and
cleaning them if necessary may cure it in some cases.
Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting
Power levels in a microwave oven are controlled by cycling the microwave generator on and off
with a variable duty cycle - kind of like slow pulse width modulation. For 'HIGH', it runs continuously;
for low, it may run 10% on and 90% off; other settings are in between.
When the oven always seems to be stuck at high power, it is likely to be due to one of two possible
causes - a faulty relay or Triac, or controller. The relay or triac may have failed in the on state. This
will probably show up with ohmmeter tests (with the oven unplugged!) but not always.
Replacements should be readily available. If the problem is is the controller, it will be more difficult
to diagnose as schematics for the controller are usually not readily available. However, it could be
something simple like a bad connection or dirty connector.
Oven heats but power seems low or erratic

Some considerations are how old the oven is and did the problem happen suddenly or did it just
gradually weaken over the years.
First, are you sure the problem is real? Perhaps you are just a little less patient than you used to
be. Perform a water heating test or try to pop a bag of popcorn using you usual time setting.
 If you are subject to brownouts or are running on your own generator, the line voltage may be
low. Power output is quite sensitive to the AC input - there is no regulation. A 10% drop in line
voltage is likely to reduce microwave power output by more than 20%.
 Magnetrons, like other vacuum tubes, can weaken with age and use. An oven that sees
daily use may indeed weaken over the course of several years. It is unlikely that any other
electronic components could change value in such a way as to significantly affect power
output. However, a failure of the controller or sensor (if you have one) could result in short
cycling.
Testing on HIGH will eliminate this possibility. Make sure the magnetron is powered
continuously and it is not cycling. You can often tell by listening for the relay clicks and/or by
observing the oven light/other lights dimming as the magnetron kicks in. 50% power
should result in approximately equal on and off times.
 If you run the oven on HIGH, can you tell if it is actually heating continuously or rather it thinks
you want LOW? Many microwave ovens make a clicking sound as they use a relay to switch
microwave power on and off - check if you can hear this. Alternatively, lights on the same
circuit or the oven light may dim slightly when the magnetron kicks in. There should not be
any cycling on HIGH - the microwave power should stay on continuously while it is cooking. If
it is cycling, there may be a problem with the controller or you may unknowingly be in a low
power mode - check it.
 Mechanical problems are also possible. Where a spinning paddle wheel is used to 'stir' the
microwave energy (often where there is no turntable), its failure to rotate can result in hot and
cold spots. Thus, you may see an unexplained variation in cooking times. The paddle is often
accessible by unclipping a plastic cover above the oven cavity. Check for bearing failure,
binding, broken or lose belt if direct driven, etc. Note that some are rotated by air flow from
the cooling fan and require that cover to be in place to rotate. Therefore, it is not really
possible to inspect for correct operation with the cover removed. However, you can put a
microwave power indicator (NE2 neon light bulb with its leads twisted together) in the oven
(with a cup of water for a load) and observe it through the window. You should see a periodic
variation in intensity as the paddles do their job.
 There could be intermittent connections to the magnetron filament, thermal protector, or
elsewhere. But, these would likely show up as erratic operation - no heat at all sometimes
- not just a weak oven.
Inspect and clean and tighten (if necessary) all connections in the microwave generator
including the magnetron filament, HV transformer, HV Diode, HV capacitor, and thermal
protector. Be sure to unplug the unit first and discharge the HV capacitor before touching
anything!
 The thermal protector may be intermittent. Test by clipping a light bulb across it or
monitoring with a multimeter on AC voltage.
Oven heats but shuts off randomly
Everything operates normally, but the oven shuts off after varying amounts of time. This could be
a faulty magnetron, bad cooling fan (or just built up dust and grime block ventilation grilles), bad
thermal protector, faulty controller, some other intermittent component, or bad connections.
 If resetting it allows cooking to resume immediately, if even for a few seconds, I would not
suspect the magnetron or thermal problem as no cool down time is required. It could be
bad
connections in the controller or elasewhere, a marginal door interlock switch, or a controller

problem. Jiggle the door to see if this will cause it to shut off.
 If the magnetron was overheating, you would not be able to resume cooking until it cooled
and the thermal protector reset. If it just stopped working (i.e., the filament opened),
everything would appear normal but there would be no heating. If the magnetron were
shorting, there would likely be a loud hum associated with the periods where there was no
 heat.
If it is not possible to resume cooking for a few minutes indicating that something needs time
to cool off, then the magnetron could be faulty but check for the obvious cooling problems
first: blocked or dirty ventilation grill. Determine if the magnetron cooling fan is operating by
listening for its sound or looking through the ventilation opening in the back of the oven. If it is
not, there could be a broken or weak belt, gummed up or lack of lubrication, other mechanical
 problems, a bad motor, or bad connections.
Extremely high power line voltage may also result in overheating on a poorly designed or
 oven where the components are marginal.
Make sure the stirrer fan is turning normally. Should it gets stuck, some models may sense
this and shut down/restart.
Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating
Assuming operation is normal otherwise, this is most likely either a fan or other motor vibrating on
its mounts, fan blades hitting something, or some sheet metal or the high voltage power transformer
laminations vibrating. There may be something stuck under the turntable or above the waveguide
cover interfering with the stirrer.
Something may have loosened up with age and use.
If the noise is caused be simple vibrations, no damage is likely to result. However, if the main
cooling fan is on its way out and it stops or gets stuck, parts will overheat quite quickly at
which point the oven will shut down (hopefully) and there could be damage to the magnetron
or other components. Therefore, at least identifying the cause is probably a good idea.
The solution may be as simple as tightening a screw or weging a shim between two pieces
of vibrating sheet metal.
Oven light does not work
If the oven light no longer works, a burned out light bulb is likely.
Light bulbs may be typically located in any of 3 places:
1. Oven chamber - it may be behind a mesh grill requiring a screw or snap to be removed.
This is the easiest.
2. Rear - the bulb may be in a recessed compartment accessible by removing a screw or
two on the back of the oven.
3. Inside - it may be behind a non-removable grille requiring the removal of the cover.
These are typically not your usual vanilla flavored appliance bulbs either.
Bad connections are also possible but not that likely.
Fans or turntables that do not work
There are up to 4 motors in a microwave oven:
 Magnetron cooling fan - always present.

 Mechanical timer (on inexpensive non-touchpanel or older units).
 Turntable.
 Convection air circulation (combo units only).
When any of these do not operate properly, the most likely causes are:
 Gummed up lubrication/dry bearings. Check for free rotation of the affected part(s). Clean
and lubrication as needed. Also confirm that there are no other mechanical problems (e.g.,
turntable improperly installed).
 Loose or broken belt. Confirm that belt is properly installed. Test to determine if it is worn
and flabby - stretch it by about 25%. It should return to its relaxed length instantly. Clean
and/or replace if needed.
 Bad motor. Disconnect one wire and check for continuity with an ohmmeter. If open,
winding is bad but check for break at terminal which you can resolder.
 Bad thermostat. Where a fan only runs when the oven is hot as in a microwave/convection
oven, the thermostat or controller could also be at fault. Locate the thermostat and jumper
across its terminals with power off. Plug the oven in and see if the fan now runs all the time
or at least when the appropriate mode(s) are entered.
 Bad connections - trace wiring and check continuity (unplugged, capacitor discharge) to
motor terminals.
Note that the opposite problem - a turntable and/or fan that runs after the cook cycle is completed
may be normal for your oven. This is a "cool-down" function designed to allow the heat to
equalize.
What to do if the door handle breaks off

Usually this happens at the places where the handle is screwed to the door.
Plastic is generally tough to glue where a strong bond is needed and where the joint is subject to
abuse. However, depending on the type of plastic, one or more of the following may work:
semiflexible adhesive like windshield sealer, plastic cement (the kind that fuses the plastic, not
model cement), Duco cement, PVC (pipe) cement, or even superglue (though it seems not all
brands are equally effective). Make sure the surfaces to be glued are perfectly clean (remove
any residual library paste if you tried that!) and provide a means of clamping the pieces until the
bond sets up (adhesive tape and/or rubber bands may be all you need). Consider providing some
reinforcements around the joint (i.e., plastic splints or sisters depending on your profession) for
added durability.
Replacement door handles and/or entire doors may be available from the manufacturer of the
oven. Here are the door disassembly instructions from the Amana service manual. Many others are
similar:
1. Pry out the inner door trim with a small screwdriver on the latch side of the door.
2. Remove two screws securing the latch assembly and door handle to the outer panel
(this may be all that's needed to replace the handle).
3. Remove six screws and release 4 spring fingers that secure the choke to the outer
panel.
WARNING: A microwave leakage test must be performed any time a door is removed,
replaced, disassembled, or adjusted for any reason.
Crack or other damage to door window
If the metal screen/mesh is behind and separate from the glass, there is no danger. In this case,
the function of the glass is mostly cosmetic and a small crack should not be a problem.
However, if the screen is inside the glass and now broken as well, there could be microwave
leakage. Even if it is not actually broken at this time, future failure is possible. Therefore, the
glass panel or entire door should be replaced.
Also, any break large enough to allow something to touch the metal screen is a hazard because
during cooking, there could be shock hazard due to microwaves inducing current in the screen.
And, poking something metallic through the screen would make is susceptible to microwave pickup
as well.
However, damage to the inner plastic is probably not a cause for concern as that is only there
to keep the screen and inside of the door glass clean.
Repairing damage to the oven interior
If spilled food - solid or liquid - is not cleaned up soon after the oven is used, it will tend to harden
and carbonize. Not only will this be much more difficult to remove, but hot spots may develop
and result in possible sparking, arcing, and damage to the interior paint.
If this happens in the vicinity of the mica waveguide cover, it may be damaged as well. In addition,
sometimes splatters may find their way above the waveguide cover and cause problems above
the roof of the oven chamber in the waveguide.
Needless to say, clean up spills and food explosions as soon as possible. Not only will it be easier,
the chance of future expensive problems will be minimized.
To prevent arcing and sparking, the interior needs to be smooth. Sharp edges and hard carbon in
particular creates places where electric field gradients can become great enough to cause
problems. Thus the warning not to use any metal utensils in a microwave.
Once damage occurs - paint blisters and peels, or totally hardened impossible to remove
carbon deposits - more drastic action is called for:
 Assuming cleaning does not work on the carbon - even after repeated attempts, carefully
scrape it off with a blunt knife or other suitable tool. This will probably damage the paint.
Use fine sandpaper to completely smooth out the metal and feather the edges of the paint
in the immediate area.
Special microwave oven cavity paint is available but any common gloss enamel will work just
as well (and costs about 1/10th as much). Use touch-up paint (with a small brush) or spray
paint. The typical color is beige, almond, or some other form of off-white - just match it to
your oven (if you care).
Until you can obtain the paint, the oven will work fine but since the chamber is made of
sheet steel, rust will set in eventually. So, do paint it.
 If the waveguide cover is damaged seriously - such that it no longer will prevent splatters
from entering the waveguide, obtain replacement material, cut to fit. Leaving it larger than
necessary is fine as well. Use a suitable bit in a hand drill to make holes in the mica for the
mounting screws or plastic snaps.
Alternatives to mica which can stand the elevated temperatures in a microwave oven may
also be acceptable. Possible choices include plastic or fiberglass laminate but not all materials
will allow microwaves to pass without some heating - check it out. Heat a cup of water and the
candidate material on high for a couple of minutes. If the material doesn't heat up, it should be
fine. Of course, it must also not have any metal coating (don't use a piece of one of those
'browning disks' :-). Mica is also non-flammable which is may not be the case with other
materials.
 If the interior of the door is damaged seriously such that either it will not longer seal around
the edge properly or that the mesh screening is breeched, a replacement will be required
to assure continued safety with respect to minimizing microwave emissions.
Microwave oven cavity paint, waveguide cover mica sheets, and even some replacement doors
are available from the parts suppliers listed at the end of this document. For most ovens, parts like
doors will need to be obtained direct from the manufacturer, however.
Microwave/convection oven problems
In addition to the microwave components, these ovens also include an air circulating fan and
an electric heating element as well as a temperature sensing themister. Any of these can fail.
 A convection oven which shuts down after a couple of minutes during the preheat cycle
with the temperature display (if any) stuck at LOW (even though the oven is hot when
opened) may have a bad thermistor temperature sensor.
 The overtemperature protection sensor (rather than the normal temperature sensor) is
shutting the oven down. The termister will usually be accessible after removing the oven
cover. It will be located centrally just above the oven ceiling duct or elsewhere in the
convection air flow. It is a two terminal device that may look like a tiny resistor or diode and
may be mounted on a metal header fastened with a couple of screws. Remove and test
with
an ohmmeter. An infinite reading means it is bad. As a test, jumper a 50 K ohm potentiometer
in place of the thermistor. During preheat, as you lower the resistance of the pot you should
see the temperature readout climb. The oven will then indicate READY when the simulated
temperature exceeds the setpoint. Replacement thermistors are available from the oven
manufacturer - about $20. Cheaper alternatives may be possible but you would need to know
the exact specifications and it is probably impossible to obtain this information.
 If the convection preheat cycle never completes and the oven is cool when opened, then
either the heating element is bad (test with an ohmmeter) or the relay controlling the
heating element or the controller itself is bad. If the circulating fan runs off of the same relay
and it is operating, then the problem must be the heating element.
 The heating element will be either a Calrod type (GE trade name?) which is a steel tube
enclosing a Nichrome wire coil embedded in ceramic filler or a coiled Nichrome element
strung between ceramic insulators. The former is probably only available from the oven
manufacture, though it is worth trying an appliance parts distributor or a place like MCM
electronics first. It may be possible to find a replacement Nichrome coil and form it to fit.
Make sure the wire gauge and length are identical.
 The circulating fan is probably driven by a belt, which may break or deteriorate. Inspect
the belt. If it is loose, cracked, or does not return to its normal length instantly after being
stretched by 25% replace it. Check the fan motor and fan itself for adequate lubrication.
Check
the fan blades for corrosion and damage.
Sensor problems
Fancier microwave or microwave/convection ovens include various probes that can be used to shut
off the oven when the food is supposedly done or maintain it at a preset temperature.
When problems develop with these automatic features, the sensor and the probe cable are the
primary suspects. However, it is possible that the electronic circuitry could also be affected by
a
damaged or defective probe unit.
 Check for bad connections where the probe plugs in as well as broken wires inside the
cable particularly near the ends where it gets flexed.
 Temperature probes may use a thermistor similar to one that controls the convection
portion of a microwave/convection oven. Steam/humidity probes may also behave similarly.
 If you have never tried the probe before, check your users manual. It may only be active
in certain modes, etc.
The best test of the probe unit is to substitute a known good one. Of course, this is generally
not convenient.
 There should be some resistance when measuring between the signal conductors of the
probe cable. It may be high (hundreds of K ohms) but probably should not be open. A very
low value (a few ohms or less) might indicate a short in the cable or sensor.
 Testing to determine if the controller is responding to the input from the sensor can be done
in a similar manner except that access must be from inside the electronics bay while the
oven is running (the probe normally plugs in inside the oven chamber). Substitute a fixed or
variable resistor and see if you can get the oven to shut off (or stay on) as a function of
resistance. CAUTION: Don't forget to put a cup of water in as a load if you are testing
microwave operation.
If the resistor test determines that the controller is responding, than a bad probe unit is likely.
If the probe checks out or substituting a known good one makes no difference in behavior, look
for corrosion or other deterioration of the socket in the oven chamber as well as bad connections.
Faulty circuitry in the controller is also possible.
JOB SHEETS MICROWAVE OVEN DISASSEMBLY N.C. LEVEL : II
3.5.1 CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 5
A. Tools and Materials
1. Microwave oven as selected by instructor

2. Screwdriver with insulated handle
3. Safety glasses
B. Procedure
1. Put on safety glasses

2. Unplug the oven cord
(CAUTION: Perform the rest of the procedure ONLY IN THE PRESENCE OF AND UNDER
THE DIRECT SUPERVISION OF YOUR INSTRUCTOR.)
3. Remove two screws at the right side of the oven.
screws
JOB SHEETS MICROWAVE OVEN DISASSEMBLY N.C. LEVEL : II
4. Remove five screws from the back side of the

oven.
screws
5. Remove top cover to see inside of the oven.
Have your instructor check your work
6. Clean up are and return tools and materials to proper storage, or prepare for next job
sheets as directed by your instructor.
JOB SHEETS MICROWAVE OVEN REASSEMBLY N.C. LEVEL : II

3. Safety glasses
B. Procedure

2. Prepare the parts for re-assembly and put the top cover of the
oven.
3. Replace the screws at the back side of the oven.
screws
105
JOB SHEETS MICROWAVE OVEN REASSEMBLY N.C. LEVEL : II
4. Replace the screws at the side of the microwave oven.
screws
5. Remove top cover to see inside of the oven.
6. Clean up are and return tools and materials to proper storage, or prepare for next job
sheets as directed by your instructor.
106
JOB SHEETS DISCHARGE A CAPACITOR N.C. LEVEL : II

2. Service manual for selected oven
4. 20k resistor with jumper type leads
5. Needlenose pliers with insulated handles
6. Safety glasses
B. Procedure

2. Unplug the oven cord
3. Remove the oven wrap or access panels as required to reach the capacitor. (SEE
JOB SHEETS 3.3.1 FOR MICROWAVE DISASSEMBLY)
Removing capacitor from its fastener
1. Remove screw that fastens the capacitor to 2. Carefully remove the capacitor away from the
oven body. oven.
3. Remove screw fastening the diode. 4. Expose the capacitor terminals for
discharging.
JOB SHEETS DISCHARGE A CAPACITOR N.C. LEVEL : II
4. Position the resistor leads so that they are equal to the distance between the
capacitor terminals
5. Hold the resistor at mid-point with a pair of pliers with insulated handles
6. Move the resitor and leads to a point where the leads contact the capacitor terminals
and discharge the capacitor
(NOTE: A capacitor can always be discharge by barring across the two capacitor
terminals with a screwdriver that has an insulated handle, and you ask your instructor
whether or not to practice that procedure.)
7. Clean up area and return tools and materials to proper storage, or prepare for next
job sheets as directed by your instructor.
JOB SHEETS CHECK TURNTABLE ROTATION N.C. LEVEL : II
1. Microwave oven (SHARP R-240F)

3. Safety glasses
B. Procedure

2. Plug AC cord to outlet.
3. Set the oven in demonstration mode. Press the CLOCK pad and the number pad 0 ,
then PRESS INSTANT COOK/START pad and hold for 3 seconds. dISP will appear in
the display.
4. Press COOK/START pad, and the display will show 1.00 and count down to zero at
ten times the speed faster that normal. Observe the tray if it rotates. If not replace
turntable
motor.
turntable
5. Cancel demonstration mode. Press CLOCK pad, the number 0 and the STOP/CLEAR
pad.
6. Unplug the AC cord from the outlet
7. Clean up area and return tools and materials to proper storage, or prepare for next job
sheet as direced by your instructor.
JOB SHEETS TROUBLESHOOT MICROWAVE OVEN N.C. LEVEL : II
3.5.5 PROBLEMS WITH CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 5
1. Microwave oven
3. Microwave safe container with two cup capacity
4. Pencil and paper
5. Safety glasses
B. Procedure

2. Conduct a preliminary inspection of the oven to assure that it is safe to service
3. Place a little less than two cups of water in a container, place it in the oven, and set the
oven for full power (cook condition).
4. Close the oven door, set the timer for two minutes, and start the oven
5. Check blower motor is operating by feeling gush of air through the ventilation duct at
the back of the oven, and if it is, move on to Step 7.
6. Establish that the blower motor is not working and complete the following procedure in
order:
a. Check for a bad fuse.
b. Check for an open thermal protector for the magnetron or the cavity
c. Check for a timer assembly
d. Check for a defective or out of adjustment interlock switch module
e. Check for a defective or binding motor with standard troubleshooting procedures
7. Check to see if turntable is rotating, and if they do, move to Step 9
8. Establish that the turntanle is not rotating and correct the defective turntable system.
9. Check to make sure timer is advancing properly, and if it is, move on to step 11
10. Establish that the timer is not advancing properly and troubleshoot for a defective or
binding timer assembly
11. Open the oven door
12. Check to see if the water you placed in the cavity has heated, and if it has, the
cook operation is normal and you should move on to Step 15
13. Establish whether or not the water is heating slowly by performing power tests that
covers:
a. Problems with line voltage less than 220V AC

b. Problems with a defective power transformer, a defective capacitor, or a
defective magnetron
14. Establish that the water is not heating at all by performing the no heat tests that
covers:
a. Defective diode
b. Defective capacitor
c. Defective power transformer
d. Defective magnetron
15. Write a brief summary of your findings complete with the date and model and serial
numbers of the microwave oven
16. Clean up area and return tools and materials for proper storage, or prepare for next
job sheets as directed by your instructor.
JOB CONDUCT TESTS OF HIGH-VOLTAGE N.C. LEVEL : II
SHEETS COMPONENTS WHEN LITTLE OR NO HEAT IS
PRODUCED BY AN OVEN BUT ALL OTHER CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 5
3.5.6
OPERATIONS APPEAR NORMAL
1. Microwave oven
3. Ohmmeter with a range of x10,000 or greater
4. 9-V battery
6. Pencil and paper
7. Safety glasses
B. Routine #1 – Testing the capacitor

2. DISCHARGE THE CAPACITOR
3. Set the ohmmeter on its highest resitance scale
(NOTE: The following test will not work with a capacitor with a built-in bleeder resistor, so
that type of capacitor should be checked with a capacitor analyzer.)
4. Remove the wires from the capacitor terminals and connect ohmmeter leads to the
capacitor terminals
5. Check the meter to make sure it momentarily deflects toward zero and then returns to
infinite
a. If no deflection occurs, replace the capacitor
b. If continuous deflection occurs, replace the capacitor
6. Check between each terminal to the capacitor case for infinite resistance, and if it is
not present, replace the capacitor
C. Routine #2 – Testing the Diode

2. Set the ohmmeter to the highest resistance scale
3. Remove the leads that come from the capacitor and connect with the diode terminals
4. Place the ohmmeter leads on the diode terminals
5. Check for an infinite resistance of either 50,000 or 200,000 ohms and record your finding
(NOTE: Diodes on other models ovens may not give these readings.)
6. Reverse the ohmmeter leads on the diode terminals and check for either 50,000 or
200,000 ohms on the second testing and record your finding
(NOTE: If the first reading was 50,000, the second reading should be 200,000 or
the reverse.)
7. Replace the diode if it fails to pass the infinite resistance tests

3.5.6

D. Routine #3 – Testing the magnetron

2. Remove the wires from the magnetron and connect ohmmeter to its terminals
3. Check for a reading of less than 1 ohm between terminals
(CAUTION: Set your VOM at highest scale for the following check.)
4. Check for infinite resistance between each magnetron terminal and ground
(NOTE: This test is not conclusive, and if all other components tests good and the oven
still does not heat, replace the magnetron.)
E. Routine #4 – Testing the power transformer
2. Check primary winding first by removing wires from the terminals marked 1 and 2
and connecting the ohmmeter leads to thoise terminals and recording your findings
3. Check between each terminal and ground
a. On all three types of power transformers, the primary winding check should read
less than 1 ohm
b. On all three types of power transformers, the terminal to ground should read infinite
4. Check high voltage winding next by removing the wire from the secondary terminal
marked HV
5. Connect ohmmeter between the HV terminal and the oven chassis
3.5.6
a. HV to ground on a Type 1 transformer should read 54 to 64 ohms

b. HI to ground on a Type 2 transformer should read 66 to 74 ohms, and LO to ground
on Type 2 transformer should read 63 to 71 ohms
6. Record all findings
7. Check the filament winding next by removing the wires 3 and 4 on the transformer
and connecting the ohmmeter between these terminals
8. Check between each filament terminal and ground
a. Step 7 should give a reading of less than 1 ohm
b. Step 8 should show infinite resistance
9. Record all findings

10. Replace power transformer if findings indicate problems
sheet as directed by your instructor
JOB SHEETS REMOVE AND INSTALL A MAGNETRON N.C. LEVEL : II
1. Microwave oven
3. Standard tool set
5. Pencil and paper
6. Electrical Tape
7. Safety glasses
B. Procedure (Figure 1)

2. Unplug the power cord and remove the access panel
4. Remove the blower motor as previously outlined
5. Remove the diode
6. Remove the magnetron mounting nuts and lower the magnetron to remove it
7. Check magnetron RF gasket to make sure it is in good shape and properly placed
before reinstalling the magnetron
8. Reinstall magnetron, tighten mounting nuts, and check for secure and even alignment of
the
magnetron
9. Install the magnetron air duct and thermo protector
10. Install the high voltage transformer and reconnect magnetron filament leads and transformer
leads
11. Install diode
12. Install blower, blower housing duct, and magnetron support bracket
13. Place a container of cool water in the cavity and check the oven for proper operation
14. Check the oven for RF leakage with an approved RF test meter and procedure
sheet directed by your instructor
JOB SHEETS REMOVE AND INSTALL A MAGNETRON N.C. LEVEL : II
JOB SHEETS REMOVE AND DISASSEMBLE A STIRRER N.C. LEVEL : II
3.5.8 SYSTEM CORE MODULE: 2 LO: 5
1. Microwave oven
4. Standard tools
5. Sealant M13D2 as required
6. Safety glasses
B. Procedure (Figure 1)

2. Unplug the power cord and remove the access panel
4. Remove the access panel
5. Remove the stirrer cover by pulling forward to release the molded-in button that hold it
in place
(NOTE: On early production ovens the rear poly buttons have to be removed.)
6. Remove the stirrer bracket support and lower the support assembly and stirrer blade
7. Remove the left and right hand air baffles as required
8. Keep the stirrer insert intact with the bearing and set it aside
9. Inspect the stirrer blade and baffles for evidence of damage
10. Inspect stirrer insert and bearing for excessive wear
11. Reassemble as directed and use sealant as indicated in Figure 1

sheet directed by your instructor.
ASSESSMENT MAINTAIN AND REPAIR N.C. LEVEL : II
SHEETS ELECTRONICALLY-CONTROLLED CORE MODULE: 2
DOMESTIC APPLIANCES
TRAINEE’S NAME DATE
EVALUATOR’S NAME ATTEMPT NO.
SELF-ASSESSMENT
Instruction: Tick the box for your answer. Ask your instructor for evaluation afterwards.
Instructions: When you are ready to perform this task, ask your instructor to observe the procedure
and complete this form. All items listed under “Process Evaluation” must receive a “Yes” for you to
receive an overall performance evaluation.
PROCESS EVALUATION
EVALUATOR NOTE: Place a check mark in the “Yes” or “No” blanks to designate whether or not
the trainee has satisfactorily achieved each step in this procedure. If the trainee is unable to achieve
this competency, have the trainee review the materials and try again.
The trainee YES NO

1. Checked out proper tools and materials.
2. Properly used static protection.
3. Checked in/put away tools and materials.
4. Cleaned the work area.
5. Identified correctly defects/faults in the appliance.
6. Used proper tools correctly.
7. Performed steps in a timely manner. ( hrs. min.
sec.)
8. Practiced safety rules throughout procedure.
9. Provided satisfactory responses to questions asked.
DDDDG
EVALUATOR’S COMMENTS:
ASSESSMENT MAINTAIN AND REPAIR N.C. LEVEL : II
SHEETS ELECTRONICALLY-CONTROLLED
CORE MODULE: 2
DOMESTIC APPLIANCES
Tools and Equipment

 Microwave oven
 Star screwdriver
Multimeter
Performance
1. Disassemble completely the microwave oven and label each part and component
correctly. (Time alloted: 30 minutes)
2. Based on your diagram, identify the cause(s) of the following symptoms:
a) When the door opens, the cavity light illuminates but the turntable and blower motor
still operates.
I.
II.
III.
b) At cook condition, the cavity light illuminates, turnatable and blower motor operates
but after two minutes the water in the cavity did not heat up.
I.
II.
III.
c) At cook condition all parts and components acted ok, but after 10 minutes the
unit suddenly died. You attempted to power up the unit again but still its dead.
I.
II.
III.
S E RV I C E INDUSTRIAL N.C. LEVEL : II
LEARNER’S DIARY E LECT RON IC MODULES,
PRODUCTS AND SYST EM S CORE MODULE: 2
LEARNER’S DIARY

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COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING

OLIVEROS COLLEGE INCORPORATED

CONTENTS PAGE NO.

HOW TO USE THIS LEARNING MATERIAL 5

INFORMATION SHEETS 3.1.1 - Work Safety Requirements 17

INFORMATION SHEETS 3.1.2 - Application of 5S 19

INFORMATION SHEETS 3.1.3 - Use of Personal Protective Equipment

SELF CHECK 3.1.1

INFORMATION SHEETS 3.2.1 - Use and function of tools, equipment and 29

SELF CHECK 3.2.1

LEARNING OUTCOME #3 - Diagnose faults and defects of consumer

INFORMATION SHEETS 3.3.2 - Drawing and Interpreting Schematic 46

SELF CHECK 3.3.1 49

LEARNING OUTCOME #4 Maintain/Repair consumer electronic products 50

INFORMATION SHEETS 3.4.5 - Microwave Oven Parts and Component 78

LEARNING OUTCOME #5 - Re-assemble and test repaired consumerl electronics products

INFORMATION SHEETS 3.5.1 - Troubleshooting Components 87

INFORMATION SHEETS 3.5.2 - Microwave Oven Troubleshooting

JOB SHEETS 3.5.3 – Discharge a Capacitor 107

JOB SHEETS 3.5.4 – Check turntable rotation 109

JOB SHEETS 3.5.5 – Troubleshoot Microwave Oven problems with circuit

JOB SHEETS 3.5.6 – Conduct tests of high voltage components when

JOB SHEETS 3.5.7 – Remove and install magnetron 114

JOB SHEETS 3.5.8 – Remove and disassemble a stirrer system 116

INSTITUTIONAL ASSESSMENT 117

LEARNER’S DIARY 119

The unit of competency “Maintain and Repair Electronically-Controlled Domestic Appliances”

Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL)

 Been working for some time.

 Already completed training in this area.

 Talk to more experience workmates and ask for their guidance.

LO2. Install consumer electronic products and systems

LO4. Maintain/Repair consumer electronic products

LO5. Re-assemble and test repaired consumer electronics products

Work Safety Read Information 1 hour

Read Electrical Safety

View “5S Application” Working area/bench

LO 2: Install consumer electronic products and systems

Learning Presentation Practice Feedback Resources

LO 3: Diagnose faults and defects of consumer electronic products and systems

Learning Presentation Practice Feedback Resources

Principles of Read Information 1 hour

View “Ohm’s Answer Self Check Instructor evaluates Indicated in LO4

Circuits Read Information 1 hour

Analysis of Read Information

Microwave Read Information

Troubleshooting Read Information Sheets 3.5.1

Microwave Oven Perform Job Sheets 3.5.1

Discharge a Perform Job Sheets 3.5.3

problems with Perform Job Sheets 3.5.4 1 hour

D. Instructor’s Self-Reflection of the Session

QUALIFICATION: Electronic Products Assembly and Servicing NC – II

SUMMARY OF LEARNING OUTCOMES:

At the completion of this module the trainees/students should be able to:

LO2. Install consume electronic products and systems

LO4. Maintain/Repair consume electronic products

LO5. Re-assemble and test repaired consume electronics products

1. Electrical safety precautions are identified, enumerated and explained correctly

1. Is at least high school graduate

Qualification Electronic Products Assembly and Servicing NC – II

Module Title Servicing Consumer Electronic Products and Systems

1. Electrical safety precautions are identified, enumerated and explained correctly