Selection of Cotton

We must be conversant with the important physical

properties of cotton, which greatly influence yarn strength,
uniformity, nep generation tendency, process performance
etc.
1. Fibre length
2. Fineness
3. Strength
4. Maturity
5. Short fibre content
6. Trash %
Cotton is selected by considering the following points:

i) Fibre length, fineness, strength influences yarn strength

& spinning value.
ii) Short fibre content influences uniformity of yarn.
iii) Maturity of cotton determines nep generation at
different stages,
iv) Trash % in the cotton indicates no. of beating points
treatment (Opening machines) necessary in blow room.
• Fibre Length
Fibre length can be measured as effective length (EL) or
span length (SL)

The effective length is longer than the average length and

is a measure of the length of the majority of longer fibers
in a sample. The effective length is described statistically
as the upper quartile of the fiber length distribution
obtained by ignoring short fibers whose length is less
than half of the effective length of fibers.
 Comb Sorter Diagram

• OQ= ½ OA, OK= ¼ OP

• KS= ½ KK’ OL= ¼ OR
• LL’= Effective length
Span length:
• Span length is that length which a certain percentage of fibres from
the original fibre population would span when caught at random
along their lengths
• The span length is the length of fibers at a distance spanned by a
specific percentage of fibers (it can be by number or by weight) in
the test beard, considering the reading as 100% at the starting point
of scanning. Different span length reference points are considered.
The most common span lengths used commercially are 2.5% and
50% span length. The 2.5% span length is defined as the length of
fiber at which only 2.5% of long fibers are excluded. It provides the
reference length for roller drafting ratchet settings to be adjusted,
so that few, if any, fibers are broken.
• The uniformity ratio (UR%) is the ratio of the 50% span length to the
2.5% span length.
Fibre Fineness: Micronaire Value (Microgram/ inch)

Micronaire is a measure of cotton fiber fineness and maturity.

A micronaire instrument, based on air flow, is commonly used to
examine the fineness of cotton fibre. This instrument works on
resistance offered to the flow of air through a plug of fibres. The
resistance to air flow depends upon the specific surface area of fibres.
The maturity ratio of fibres also affects the specific surface area.

In the micronaire meter, an amount of 3.24 grams of cotton from the

sample is taken. Now this weighed amount of cotton is well opened and
filled into a cylindrical container of fixed dimensions. The compressed
air is passed through sample at a definite pressure. Rate of flow of air is
measured by a rotometer type air flow meter.   The low meter reading
indicates that fibre is fine.
Fibre Strength:
Strength measurements are reported in grams per tex at 3 mm
gauge (Stelometer). The beard of cotton fibres is clamped in two
sets of jaws, 3 mm apart, and the amount of force required to break
the fibres is determined. The table below is a guide to interpret
fibre strength measurements:
Maturity :

Cotton fibre sample is treated with 18% NaOH – swelling takes

place – then examined under microscope

Maturity Co-efficient= (M + 0.6H + 0.4I)/100

Where M, H and I are % of mature, half mature and immature

fibre respectively
Trash Content :

Shirley Trash Analyser

Trash content = [(Feed material – Delivered material)/ Feed material] x 100

= (Total trash/Feed material) x 100

Fine cotton - 2-4%

Medium - 4-6%
Coarse - 6 above
 Fibre quality Index (FQI) = Lsm / f

Where
• L = 50% Span length in mm (2.5 % Span length x Uniformity Ratio/100)
• s = Bundle fibre strength in g/tex at 3mm gauge length measured on
stelometer.
• m = maturity co-efficient determined by sodium hydroxide swelling
technique
• f = fibre fineness or micronaire value (micro grams/inch)

FQI is a measure to assess the quality characteristic of the cotton

required for spinning different counts with desired CSP (Count Strength
Product) values.
CSP = (310 - count) FQI