ASSIGNMENT

Fabric Science of Apparel

Department of Fashion Technology, National Institute of Fashion Technology

GANDHINAGAR

SUBMITTED TO, SUBMITTED BY,

Prof. Pranav Vora KUSHAGR SINGH
(BFT/20/190)
SAMPLE COLLECTION OF
DIFFERENT WOVEN
FABRICS.
What are woven Fabrics?
FABRIC:
It is a planar structure which are flexible enough to be
made into three dimensional product. In other words,
fabric is one kind of yarn sheet that have a bond which
may be made by chemical or mechanical bond and for
that which earns strength and show many properties.

WOVEN FABRICS:
Woven fabrics are the fabrics which interlace two sets
of yarns at right angles. The horizontal width-wise
yarns are weft yarns or pick yarns, while, the vertical
yarns in a piece of fabric are warp yarns or ends.
 Woven fabric cloth usually frays at the edges, unless
techniques are used to counter it, such as the use
of pinking shears or hemming. Weaving is the
technique to form such fabrics.
 Characteristics of Woven Fabrics:
1. INTERLACING: Point where yarn changes it’s position from fabric’s surface to it’s underside or vice
versa.
2. FLOAT: Point where a yarn crosses over more than one yarn at a time in twills, satins, basket
weaves and fancy weaves.
3. Warp Yarns: Yarns threaded through the loom, parallel to salvage , less stretch, parallel in fabric,
less crimp, usually simples, smaller and more regular with higher tpi, nearly novelty or crepe and
has higher density.
4. Filling Yarns: Yarns inserted through shed during weaving perpendicular to selvage, more stretch,
path not as straight in fabric, more  crimp, more likely to be novelty or  crepe, less regular with
lower tpi, larger and has lower density.
5. Grain: Position of warp yarns to  filling yarns; on­grain fabrics have yarns at right angles, better
quality fabrics.
6. Fabric face and back AND Fabric top and bottom.
7. These are most widely used method with many  possibilities.
8. Fabrics ravel and fray and have grain.
9. They have Low elasticity elasticity.
10. Same weave fabrics may vary by yarn size or  twist, fiber, count, color, design, or finish. They are
used in apparel, furnishings, & industrial  products.
THREE Basic Types of Weaving Structures
for Woven Fabric are:
1. Plain weave: The threads in this type of woven fabric all run in a
simple perpendicular weaving pattern that resembles a simple
checkerboard pattern.
2. Twill weave: Also known as twill fabric, the threads in a twill weave
run in a ribbed diagonal pattern. When weaving twill, the weft
thread is woven over one or more warp threads and then under
one or more warp threads.
3. Satin weave: The satin weave is characterized by four or more fill
or weft yarns floating over a warp yarn, four warp yarns floating
over a single weft yarn.
 GINGHAM FABRIC
Gingham is a cotton fabric, or cotton blend fabric,
made with dyed yarn woven using a plain weave to
form a checked pattern. Gingham is usually a two-color
pattern, and popular combinations are red and white
gingham or blue and white gingham. The checked
pattern can come in a variety of sizes. The gingham
pattern is reversible and appears the same on both
sides. Gingham is a popular fabric due to its low cost
and ease of production. Gingham is used frequently for
button-down shirts, dresses, and tablecloths.
APPLICATIONS:
It is often seen on the runways, frequently used as gowns,
capes, jackets, and more.
In Accessories such as; Pocket squares, scarves, and
GINGHAM FABRIC headbands.
Home Décor.
SAMPLES OF GINGHAM FABRIC
 POPLIN:
The term poplin originates from papelino, a fabric made
at Avignon, France, in the 15th century, named for the papal (pope's)
residence there, and from the French papelaine (a fabric, normally
made with silk, of the same period). The most common usage of
poplin until about the 20th century was to make silk, cotton or heavy
weight wool dresses, suitable for winter wear. Poplin was also a
popular upholstery fabric.
Poplin is a fabric with medium weight and is a fine, but thick,
wool, cotton or silk fabric that has a horizontal warp and a vertical
weft and has a fine weft rib. It can be made of natural materials,
synthetic materials and combination of the two. Poplin has these
properties due to the fact that the ratio of warp threads to weft
threads is not 1:1. There are more warp threads in this material (the
ratio is 2:1, sometimes 3:1).
Applications:
Shirts.
Dresses.
POPLIN FABRIC Upholstery.
SAMPLES OF POPLIN FABRIC:
 CHIFFON FABRIC
Chiffon fabrics are sheer, lightweight fabrics made of hard twisted yarns.
Originally, these were made in silk fabrics but today they are made from rayon
or polyester.  Chiffon is smoother and more lustrous than the similar
fabric georgette. Under a magnifying glass, chiffon resembles a fine net or
mesh, which gives it some transparency.
Early chiffon was made purely from silk. In 1938, a nylon version of chiffon
was invented, followed in 1958 with the creation of polyester chiffon, which
became immensely popular due to its resilience and low cost. Like other crepe
fabrics, chiffon can be difficult to work with because of its light and slippery
texture. Due to this delicate nature, chiffon must be hand washed very gently.
The weaving method used to make chiffon is called the alternate S-and Z-twist,
and this name is derived from the shapes that yarn takes on when it is used to
make this fabric

APPLICATIONS:
Evening wear, nightgowns, blouses, scarves, lingerie, ribbons, wedding
CHIFFON FABRIC
dresses, etc.
 TYPES OF CHIFFON FABRIC:
1. Silk crepe chiffon fabric: This type of fabric features the slightly puckered
texture and relatively rough feel.

2. Silk satin chiffon fabric: This version of chiffon fabric is smoother than silk crepe,
and it is more transparent and lightweight.

3. Pearl chiffon fabric: Featuring a pearlescent shade and glossy texture, this type of
chiffon fabric stands out from other versions of this textile.

4. Jacquard chiffon fabric: While this type of chiffon fabric is quite thin, it also feels
hefty when it is picked up. It is commonly used in kurta dresses and scarves.

5. Chameleon chiffon fabric: This type of chiffon is one of the rarest varieties on the
market, and its name is derived from its multi-toned appearance.
Samples of CHIFFON FABRIC:
 CHEESE CLOTH FABRIC
Cheesecloth is a plain weave cotton fabric. It is loosely woven with
highly twisted threads and has a slight crepe texture. The gauze-like
structure of the lightest cheesecloth makes it suitable for food
production, while heavier weights may be used for garment making. It
has a low count fabric consisting of carded yarns. It is neither strong nor
durable. Due to its open structure, it does not require much ironing.
Cheesecloth comes in numerous grades. The higher the grade, the
higher the thread count, making it more durable and thicker. All grades
have certain culinary purposes. Since cheesecloth wrinkles easily and
always has a crinkly texture, ironing is done before cutting it out. The
loose weave of cheesecloth makes it suitable to draw threads from the
cloth creating a decorative effect. For cheesecloth, hot, steam iron is
used which is required to smooth the cotton fabric without damaging it.
APPLICATIONS:
Straining purposes (straining coffee, yogurt, removing seeds from
CHEESECLOTH FABRIC jams, etc).
Bandages
 Printmaking processes including lithography for wiping up gum
arabic, etc.
Summer shirts.
SAMPLES OF CHEESECLOTH FABRIC:
 CREPE FABRIC
Today, crepe is most commonly used in high fashion and other
types of decorative apparel design. Crepe is a weaving or fabric
treatment method that results in a unique rippling, three-dimensional
texture. A silk fabric is originally characterized by a crinkle, puckered
surface formed by highly twisted yarns in the warp or weft or both. By
using ordinary yarns similar crepe effects can also be produced.
Synthetic fabrics also impart crepe effect finish. Garments and other
textiles made with crepe fabric are generally delicate and used for
ceremonial occasions.
Crepe yarn is made with a process called hard twisting, which
involves twisting the textile fibers used in yarn manufacture much
tighter than usual. Once the crepe yarn has been manufactured, it
may be dyed, treated, and spun into garments.

APPLICATIONS:
CREPE FABRIC Scarves, shawls, wraps, dresses, eveningwear, hats, mourning wear,
high fashion, curtains, etc.
 TYPES OF CREPE FABRIC:
1. Aerophane: This type of crepe has a distinctive gauze-like texture. While aerophane isn’t in production any
more, many types of modern crepe mimic attributes of this classic textile.
2. Bauté satin: This intricate crepe design involves warp weaving with a reversed plain crepe design.
3. Canton crepe: Originally produced exclusively in China, this unique crepe style is still seen in many Asian-
inspired crepe garments.
4. Crepe anglaise: This black-and-white crepe type was once synonymous with the rural English lifestyle.
During periods of warfare and trade, Brits and Franks would often exchange cultural artifacts like crepe weave
derivatives.
5. Crepe de sante: Also called health crepe, crepe de sante is rough and undyed.
6. Crepeline: As another branded crepe type from the 1800s, Crepeline is noted for its incorporation of
various modern textile production processes.
7. Crepon: Crepon is generally made from heavier fabric, and this distinctive crepe was a mainstay of the latter
half of the 19th century.
8. French crepe: Sometimes called flat crepe, this fabric style is commonly used in lingerie.
9. Plisse: Plisse crepe has been chemically treated to result in a puckered texture. This crepe variety is popular
in eveningwear.
SAMPLES OF CREPE FABRIC
 DENIM Fabric
Denim was first produced in the city of Nimes in France, and was
originally called the serge de Nimes. The word denim is an English
colloquialism of the French term: “de nim.” Denim is a
sturdy cotton warp-faced textile in which the weft passes under two or
more warp threads. This twill weaving produces a diagonal ribbing that
distinguishes it from cotton duck.
It was traditionally a yarn dyed, warp-faced cotton twill fabric. Warp
is usually coloured (mostly blue, maroon, green and brown) and weft is
white. This fabric is made of two weights for sportswear and overalls. It is
often napped, printed and made with stretch yarn. Most denim made
today is made on a shuttleless loom that produces bolts of fabric 60
inches or wider, but some denim is still woven on the traditional shuttle
loom, which typically produces a bolt 30 inches wide.
APPLICATIONS:
DENIM FABRIC Clothing- like, Jeans, Jackets, shirts, aprons, etc.
Accessories- like, belts, wallets, handbags, etc.
Furniture- Bean bag chairs, Lampshades, upholstery, etc.
 TYPES OF DENIM FABRIC:
1. Indigo denim: Indigo denim is achieved by dying the warp threads with indigo dye and white
threads are used as the weft. As a result, most blue jeans are blue on the right side, as the fabric
is warp facing, and the interior is lighter blue, almost white.

2. Stretch denim: Stretch denim weaves spandex or another elastic component to give the fabric
some added give and flexibility. Stretch denim is often used for skinny jeans.

3. Crushed denim: This type of denim has been treated so that it has a wrinkled look.

4. Acid-wash denim: This denim is treated with chlorine and a pumice stone to create a marbled
look.

5. Raw denim: Raw or dry denim is fabric is that is not washed after it is dyed. This creates a
rougher and stiffer texture.

6. Sanforized denim: This is denim that is treated so that it doesn’t shrink in the wash. This
applies to almost all kinds of denim except for raw denim.
SAMPLES OF DENIM FABRIC
 MUSLIN FABRIC
Muslin is a lightweight open cloth of plain weave. It may
be used as grey or bleached and dyed. It is used as household
textiles and dress materials. The name is derived from the city of
Mosul where the fabric was first made.
It is a very light and open tabby (plain) weave fabric used
for summer dresses and utility use. At first, the cloth was not
always plain but could also have silk and gold thread woven into
it. As the ability to spin yarns of greater fineness developed
cotton was used more readily than silk. In this muslin, the motif
weaves in and out of the cloth, as if it has been embroidered.

APPLICATIONS:
Dress making and sewing.
Shellac polishing.
Culinary.
Surgeons use muslin gauze in cerebrovascular
MUSLIN FABRIC neurosurgery to wrap around aneurysms or intracranial
vessels at risk for bleeding.
SAMPLES OF MUSLIN FABRIC:
 DRILL FABRIC
Drill is stout durable cotton fabric with a
strong bias (diagonal) in the weave. It is a warp-
faced twill woven fabric. It has a stiff finish.
Originally it was produced in white and now it is
available in solid colours. It can be used
unbleached, although it is more often bleached or
dyed. The most common use of drill
in uniforms and casual wear is in the form of khaki
drill.
APPLICATIONS:
Light weight drill is used in clothing items such
as shirts, safari jackets, blouses, etc.
Used to make tarpaulins.
DRILL FABRIC Covering for furniture and cushions.
SAMPLES OF DRILL FABRIC:
 FLANNEL FABRIC
Flannel is a woollen fabric woven in plain or twill weave
having the characteristic soft handle. It looks like a bulky
fabric due to the milling that is usually done to this fabric.
Fabric must be incredibly soft to be considered flannel.
Flannel has either a brushed or unbrushed texture, and
both textures are equally iconic.
While many materials can be used to make flannel, not
all materials are suitable for this fabric. Silk, for instance, is
too fine to be made into flannel, which is supposed to be
both soft and insulative.

APPLICATIONS:
Shirts, button-downs, blouses, cardigans, sweaters, vests,
bedsheets, blankets, upholstery.
FLANNEL FABRIC
 TYPES OF FLANNEL FABRICS:
1. Wool flannel: Welsh flannel was traditionally made from wool, and most European flannel types are also
woolen.
2. Cotton flannel: Cotton flannel became more popular during the Colonial expansionist period, and this
material remains highly sought after for soft, rich flannel garments or bedsheets with napping on both sides.
3. Synthetic or mixed flannel: Many types of flannel on the market today are made with synthetic materials
like polyester or nylon instead of natural fibers. Artificial textiles are more flammable, and they are harder on
the environment.
4. Ceylon flannel: Originally developed in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka), this type of flannel consists of a 50/50
blend of cotton and wool.
5. Baby flannel: This flannel is napped on both sides and prized for its fineness. It can be made from any
material that is usually used to make flannel, but wool and cotton provide the softests textures against
sensitive baby skin.
6. Diaper flannel: While many parents wouldn’t think of their cotton, reusable baby diapers as being made of
the same fabric as their winter bedsheets, the textile used to make these disposable diaper alternatives is
technically a type of flannel. This fabric is napped on both sides to aid absorbency and comfort.
7. Vegetable flannel: Briefly, a type of flannel made from cellulose became popular in Europe during the 19th
century. Vegetable flannel lost favor after petrochemical-based fabrics became available in the 20th century.
8. Flannelette: Flannelette is woven slightly differently than true flannel, which may result in a coarser
texture. It can be made with any of the materials commonly used to weave flannel.
SAMPLES OF FLANNEL FABRIC
 VELVET FABRIC
It is a warp cut pile fabric, originally made from silk. It
is also produced in Rayon. The dense cut pile makes it very
soft and lustrous. It is used as dress materials for women
and children. It is also produced with special high twisted
yarns which are single or ply yarns. Based on the yarns used
and twist given, they are named as semi violes (single
yarns1x1) full voiles. (ply yarns 2×2) or half voile (double in
warp and single in weft 2×1). Velvet can be made from
either synthetic or natural fibers. The term “velvety feel”
does come from the tactile quality of Velvet itself
APPLICATIONS:
Curtains.
Soft furnishing.
VELVET FABRIC Apparel.
Upholstery.
 TYPES OF VELVET FABRIC:
1. Chiffon velvet: Also known as transparent velvet, this ultra-sheer form of velvet is often used in formal
garments and eveningwear.
2. Crushed velvet: Perhaps one of the most distinctive forms of velvet, crushed velvet offers a varied
texture that is achieved by either pressing or twisting the fabric when wet. Rather than having a uniform
surface, crushed velvet rises and falls in a way that is both randomly organic and visually fascinating.
3. Embossed velvet: This type of velvet has words, symbols, or other shapes embossed into it. The
embossed section is slightly shorter than the surrounding velvet, and in most cases, this embossing effect
can also be felt to the touch.
4. Hammered velvet: Considered to be one of the most lustrous forms of velvet, this type of fabric has
been firmly pressed or smashed rather than crushed. The resulting fabric is dappled and highly
reminiscent of the coat of a soft, warm animal.
5. Lyons velvet: This type of velvet is much denser than other varieties of the fabric, which results in a stiff
textile that is ideal for various outerwear applications.
6. Utrecht velvet: This type of crimped velvet has largely gone out of style, but it is sometimes still used in
dresses and eveningwear.
7. Ring velvet: Originally, velvet could only be considered “ring velvet” if it could be drawn through a
wedding ring. Essentially, ring velvet is incredibly fine and light like chiffon.
8. Voided velvet: This type of velvet features patterns made from sections with pile and sections without.
Any number of shapes or designs can be made, which makes this type of velvet similar to embossed
velvet.
SAMPLES OF VELVET FABRIC:
 KHADI FABRIC:
Khadi fabric, also known as khaddar, is a hand woven
natural fibre made with cotton. The other variations of
Khadi fabric include silk and wool. Khadi fabric originated
during the time of Mahatma Gandhi when he led the
Swadeshi Movement. This fabric has a rugged texture and
feels comfortable when worn during winter season while
also keeping one fresh in summers. They are known for
durability and simplicity. The fabrics can be suitings
dhoties overalls and household textiles.

KHADI FABRIC
SAMPLES OF KHADI FABRIC
 Mousseline Fabric
A term used to denote very fine clear fabrics, finer
than muslins. Made of silk, wool or cotton, the weave
structure is either (plain) tabby or two and one twill. In
the 18th century, the British term referred to a fine cloth
with a cotton warp and a worsted weft. In France, from
the late 18th century onwards mousseline-delaines
were made of very fine wool which was printed in
beautiful designs. This fabric proved very popular for
fashionable as dress and shawl fabrics. The mousseline
cloth is so fine and transparent it is often found backed
with another cloth of either a satin or taffeta silk.
MOUSSELINE FABRIC
SAMPLES OF MOUSSELINE FABRIC
 Organdie / Organza Fabric
Originally it is a lawn fabric which is given a stiff
finish. Acid is used for this finish to make the fabric
transparent and stiff. It is mainly used for women’s wear.
A thin light fabric in a (plain) tabby weave which, if
organza, has a very stiff crisp finish; and for organdie,
the finish is lighter or there is no finish, and thus the
cloth is more pliable. The structure of the cloth always
has more warps than wefts per inch, and the weft
threads are finer than the warp threads. Illustrated is a
colourful group of organza fabrics.

APPLICATIONS:
Evening wear, dresses, baby clothing, children’s clothing,
collars, cuffs, aprons, apparel lining, curtains.
ORGANDIE FABRIC
SAMPLES OF ORGANDIE FABRIC:
 TAFFETA
Taffeta is a crisp, plain-woven fabric made most
often from silk, but it can also be woven with polyester,
nylon, acetate, or other synthetic fibers. Taffeta fabric
typically has a lustrous, shiny appearance. Taffeta can
vary in weight from light to medium and in levels of
sheerness, depending on the type of fiber used and the
tightness of the weave. Taffeta fabric is crisp and holds
it shape well as a result of the tightly twisted yarns
woven together in a plain weave fashion. Taffeta fabric
also has a smooth surface, and piece-dyed taffeta in
particular is especially soft.

APPLICATIONS:
Home Décor
TAFFETA FABRIC Evening Gown
Linings
Parachutes
SAMPLES OF TAFFETA FABRIC:
 Buckram Fabric
It is a stiff coated fabric made from a
lightweight loosely woven fabric, impregnated
with adhesives and fillers. This fabric is used as
interfacing so as to provide support and shape
retention to necklines, collars, belts, cuffs,
waistbands, button closures etc in garments.
They are also used as reinforcements for
handbags and other articles.
APPLICATIONS:
In Bookbinding.
In Millinery.
Buckram is generally used for linings, but it is
BUCKRAM FABRIC also used to provide shapes to garments.
BUCKRAM FABRIC SAMPLES:
 CHINTZ FABRIC:
Chintz is a medium weight, plain woven cotton
yarn. It is often given a glazed finish which may be
temporary or semi-permanent glazed chintz are
available in solid colour as well as printed with
floral prints. These are often made from blends of
cotton and polyester or rayon. They are used for
skits, dresses, blouses, pyjamas, aprons, and
draperies.

APPLICATIONS:
Chintz is used in draperies, curtains, slipcovers, and
lightweight upholstery fabrics. It is sometimes used in
CHINTZ FABRIC women's dresses, skirts, and blouses, and children's
wear. 
SAMPLES OF CHINTZ FABRIC:
 GEORGETTE FABRIC
Georgette is a type of crêpe fabric that is typically
made from pure silk but can also be made from synthetic
fibers like rayon, viscose, and polyester. Georgette is known
for its signature puckered appearance, which is a result of
the tightly twisted yarns used in the weave. Georgette is a
light, flowy fabric that is fairly breathable. However,
georgette made with synthetic fibers is less breathable
than those made with silk. Georgette fabric holds dye
nicely, and the natural off-white color of silk can be dyed a
variety of hues and patterns.

APPLICATIONS:
Georgette is often used for evening gowns, bridal wear,
and special occasions, but is a versatile fabric used for
many different cuts of dresses, including a-line, pleated,
GEORGETTE FABRIC flare, and wrap dresses.
Home décor like table decorations, and pillow covers.
 TYPES OF GEORGETTE FABRIC
Double Georgette: Silk double Georgette is a thicker variety of
Georgette that still somewhat translucent with a nice drape.

Stretch Georgette: Stretch Georgette incorporates spandex or other

elastic components into the weave for added stretch.

Satin Georgette: This type of Georgette uses a satin weave, which

gives it a shinier finish.

Jacquard Georgette: Jacquard Georgette is woven on a jacquard

loom, giving the fabric added strength and a jacquard design.
SAMPLES OF GEORGETTE FABRIC
 VOILE FABRIC
Voile is a lightweight, plain woven fabric usually
made from 100% cotton or cotton blend. It has the
higher thread count than most cotton fabrics, which
results in a silky soft hand. Voile fabric is a perfect
dressmaking option for summer because it is
lightweight, breathable and semi-sheer. Voile fabric is
versatile, which means it is great both for apparel and
home décor. They are Crisp and sometimes wiry.

APPLICATIONS:
Men’s shirt
A chemisier
A tunic
VOILE FABRIC Summer scarf
Home Decor
SAMPLES OF VOILE FABRIC
 GABARDINE FABRIC
Gabardine is a relatively strong and firm cloth, made
with a twill weave, and somewhat resembling whipcord but
of lighter texture. The weft, or filling, lies entirely at the back
and is therefore not visible from the front, a circumstance
that allows the use of filling of inferior quality without loss of
durability, for only the warp surface is exposed to wear.
Gabardine was originally a type of waterproofed fabric
employed for the manufacture of raincoats. A fabric of a
more open and much lighter texture, produced entirely of
silk, is called silk, or gabardine.
APPLICATIONS:
Suits
Overcoats
Trousers
Windbreaker
GABARDINE FABRIC  Pocket linings for business suits
SAMPLES OF GABARDINE
 TWEED FABRIC
Tweed is a rough, woolen fabric, of a soft, open,
flexible texture, resembling cheviot or homespun, but
more closely woven. It is usually woven with a plain
weave, twill or herringbone structure. Colour effects in
the yarn may be obtained by mixing dyed wool before it
is spun. Since they’re made from natural wool, each
tweed product looks slightly different, which has always
added to the allure. By choosing certain sheep breeds
instead of others, you can somewhat control the
pattern that will emerge in your tweed garment.
APPLICATIONS:
Apparels like Hunting jackets, Blazers, Coats, Military jackets,
Trench coats, Womens coats, Pants, Suit jackets, etc.
TWEED FABRIC Accessories like Flat caps, Irish flat caps, Newspaper boy
caps, etc.
SAMPLES OF TWEED FABRIC
 CHAMBRAY
Chambray is a cotton plain-weave fabric made with a
dyed warp yarn and a white filling yarn. Chambray is typically
light blue in color. While it may look like denim, chambray is
lighter and is woven differently. It has a softer texture than
denim and is thinner in construction. Chambray is perfect for
spring and summer tops, jumpsuits, and dresses. Because
chambray is made with cotton, it will keep you cool in dry
heat and humidity. Chambray often comes in a higher thread
count, which means it’s a finer weave and a more breathable
fabric. These are similar to Cambric which is used
as fabric for linens, shirts, handkerchieves, ruffs, lace, and
needlework.
APPLICATIONS:
Festival clothing
Garments for priests
CHAMBRAY FABRIC
Substitute for denim
Household Textile like upholsteries on sofas and chairs.
SAMPLES OF CHAMBRAY
 CHINOS FABRIC
Chino fabric is a sturdy, twill weave fabric. It is
generally made form cotton or cotton blends and dyed
khaki or tan colours. Chino fabric can be recognised by the
subtle sheen it has. It is very hard-wearing and was
traditionally used for military uniforms or work wear. It is
now more commonly used for casual civilian clothing and
sportswear, and can be dyed a multitude of colour to serve
this purpose. The term ‘Chinos’ can also be used to
describe a pair of trousers made from Chino fabric; which
have become increasingly popular in casual fashion
recently.

CHINOS FABRIC APPLICATIONS:

Pants and trousers
Military wear
SAMPLES OF CHINOS FABRIC
 DOBBY FABRIC
Dobby, or dobbie, is a woven fabric produced on
the dobby loom, characterised by small geometric patterns
and extra texture in the cloth. The warp and weft threads
may be the same colour or different. Satin threads are
particularly effective in this kind of weave as their texture
will highlight the pattern. They are resistant to creasing.
They are versatile and flexible type of fabric. Hundreds of
different patterns can be made on this fabric. These are less
complex than Jacquard Fabrics and also different colours
are available in them.
APPLICATIONS:
Shirts
Dresses
DOBBY FABRIC
Outerwear
Polo shirts
Handbags
SAMPLES OF DOBBY FABRIC
 JACQUARD FABRIC
Jacquard fabric is a textured fabric that has complex patterns
woven into it, rather than printed, dyed, or embroidered on top.
Jacquard weaving has its origins in sixth-century Italian brocade,
and it remains one of the most popular types of fabric to this day.
Jacquard can be created from any material, since the fabric is
defined by its weave, rather than the fiber it is woven from. Silk and
cotton jacquard can be seen on high-end and traditional
applications, while modern designers are integrating a wider variety
of fibers, including linen and cotton blends. They’ve got good lustre
and are durable. Complex designs can be achieved on them.
APPLICATIONS:
Draperies
Dresses
Linings
Decorative pieces
JACQUARD FABRIC
Trimmings
SAMPLES OF JACQUARD FABRIC
 OXFORD FABRIC
Oxford weave originated in England in the late
19th Century. It is actually a variation of the Basket weave
and uses a coloured weft and a white warp. This creates a
subtle basket effect with white overtones.  This weave can
be created using many different yarns in various weights and
thicknesses. Originally Oxford weave was made using
primarily cotton, but nowadays many other fibres are used
including Polyester, Viscose and other synthetic fibres. They
are soft and lustrous. They are durable and heavier than
voile and muslin.
APPLICATIONS:
Oxford Shirts
Royal Oxford weave is used in the manufacture of
expensive formal shirts as it is more lustrous.
Sportswear
OXFORD FABRIC Walking Clothes
Shorts
SAMPLES OF OXFORD FABRIC
 WOVEN FABRIC DEFECTS
Defects in woven fabric can be a result of
yarn imperfections, incorrect weaving
process or errors in the finishing process.
 Bad or defective selvage: Broken ends or warp:
Bad selvage in woven fabrics due to faulty weaving. Here,
the warp ends being set too far apart for the thickness of A defect in the woven fabrics caused by a warp
the yarn or in the finished fabric. yarn that was broken during weaving or finishing.
 Broken picks or weft: Loose warp:
A filling yarn that is broken in the weaving of This type of fault is produced in
fabric. woven fabrics when the tension of warp
yarn is slow.
Loose weft or snarl: Double ends:
This kind of fault is produced in woven
It is produced in woven fabrics due to the
fabrics when the two ends of warp sticks get
looseness of filling yarn.
together after sizing.
 Tight ends: Float of warp:
If the tension of warp yarn is more than the other If someone pulls the fabric together with the
ends present in the loom then this type of fault is cloth roller intentionally or unintentionally then
produced in woven fabrics. this kind of defect is produced in woven fabrics.
 Wrong end color: Miss pick:
It is produced in the woven fabric due to the wrong This kind of defect is produced in the woven
drawing of colored yarn. fabric when the operator starts a
stopped machine without picking the broken
weft from the shade.
 Double pick: Weft bar:
It is produced in the woven fabric when the cutter When the count of yarn varies from one cone
doesn’t work properly. to another cone then a bar of weft will be
appeared in the fabric after weaving.
 Ball: Hole:
If the warp is too hairy then the reed will create a ball A fabric imperfection in which one or several
in warp yarn in between the reed and heald shaft. If yarns are sufficiently damaged to create an
the ball is small enough to pass through the dent of opening.
reed then those will form the ball in fabric.
 Oil spot or stain: Tails out:
Discoloration on a local area of a substrate that may be
resistant to removal by laundering or dry cleaning. It occurs This kind of fault is produced in woven fabric if the
during spinning, weaving, or finishing. It is also often seen in cutter doesn’t work properly.
the woven fabric. It is also produced in woven fabric if too
much oiling has been done on the loom parts.
 Temple mark:
If the placement of the ring in the temple bar is
wrong or the pressure of the temple to the fabrics is
too high then this type of fault is produced.
Reed mark:
In woven fabric, a crack between the groups of
warp ends either continuous or at intervals. It’s
maybe caused by the wrong drawing-in of the
warp or damage to the reed wires.
Slub: Thick and thin place:
Fabric defect in which fabric count varies more than a specified
percentage from the intended count. If the thick or thin place
is more than one inch (2.54cm) wide then it is considered a
major defect in fabric grading.
LABORATORY PRACTICAL AND TESTING
REPORT GENERATION FOR WOVEN
FABRIC. (SWATCH ANALYSIS).
 PROCEDURE:
MATERIALS REQUIRED: Fabric, marker, pencil, scale, cutter, scissor, cellotape and needle.

TO FIND EPI AND PPI:

Take up the selected fabric for which you are to EPI and PPI.
Lay the fabric on a flat surface.
Make 10 squares of size 1*1 inch each on the taken fabric using
a marker or a pencil and a scale. The lines should be parallel to
the warp and weft of the fabric.
Count the ends and picks for all the 10 squares drawn and note
down the values respectively.
Finally, take the average of the observed readings and you get
the EPI and PPI of that fabric.

NOTE: Remove the crease on fabric before experiment for a better and
smooth process.
TO CALCULATE WEFT CRIMP AND WARP CRIMP %:
In the same fabric which we took for EPI and PPI calculation, mark
‘[‘ shape with the help of a pencil and a scale (5 in weft direction
and 5 in warp direction), where height be 10cm and width 2cm.
Cut the shape with a sharp cutter or a scissor.
Gently remove the threads from warp or weft (who so evers crimp
you want to find). They must not break in the process.
Stick the thread on your scale with the help of a cellotape (where
the original length i.e. ‘p’= 10cm), with this step we find the crimp of
that fabric i.e. ‘l’. Stick one end of the yarn at ‘1 cm’ and measure
the reading through the other end.
After finding the values of ‘l’, apply the formula and find the crimp
percentage for each reading.
Crimp percentage= l – p x 100
p
By finding the average of the resulted values we get weft crimp
and warp crimp.
Now, calculate the GSM.
FABRIC NO. 1
EPI: 76
PPI: 74

WARP CRIMP: 3%
WEFT CRIMP: 6%

WARP COUNT: 70 Ne
WEFT COUNT: 46 Ne

Total warp length: 3370.24 yards

Total weft length: 3376.82 yards

Warp weight: 0.057 pounds

Weft weight: 0.087 pounds

GSM: 65.31 gsm

FABRIC NO.2
EPI: 27
PPI: 33

WARP CRIMP: 3%
WEFT CRIMP: 5%

WARP COUNT: 40 Ne
WEFT COUNT: 30 Ne

Total warp length: 1197.38 yards

Total weft length: 1491.62 yards

Warp weight: 0.036 pounds

Weft weight: 0.059 pounds

GSM: 43.09 gsm

FABRIC NO. 3
EPI: 65
PPI: 75

WARP CRIMP: 4%
WEFT CRIMP: 6%

WARP COUNT: 60 Ne
WEFT COUNT: 60 Ne

Total warp length: 2910.49 yards

Total weft length: 3423.20 yards

Warp weight: 0.058 pounds

Weft weight: 0.068 pounds

GSM: 57.15 gsm

WOVEN FABRIC COSTING
MUSLIN
FABRIC CONTENT: 100% Cotton
STRUCTURE: Muslin fabric is made using the
plain weave technique, which means that a
single weft thread alternates over and under a
single warp thread.
YARN TYPE: Quite soft and easily dyed for
any application.
GSM: 50 – 100 gsm
COSTING: Rs 67/Meter

OTHER PROPERTIES:
TEXTURE: Crisp
TRANSPARENCY: Semi – Transparent
DENIM
FABRIC CONTENT: 100% cotton yarn but
there are a few denim fabric blended with
spandex and polyester.
YARN TYPES: Durable and very Strong
STRUCTURE: Twill weave
GSM: 150 - 200 GSM
COSTING:  Rs 100 / Meter (100% cotton)

OTHER PROPERTIES:
Fabric breathability: High
Moisture-wicking abilities: High
Heat retention abilities: Medium
GEORGETTE FABRIC
FIBER CONTENT: It is typically made
from pure silk but can also be made from
synthetic fibers like rayon, viscose, and
polyester.
YARN TYPE: Rough, strong and durable.
STRUCTURE: It can either be Plain
weaved or Satin weaved.
GSM: 30 – 80 gsm
COSTING: Rs 30/Meter (Plain)

OTHER PROPERTIES:
TRANSPARENCY: Semi-sheer or opaque.
DRAPE: Springy and bouncy.
THANK YOU