C O A S T A N D C O A S TA L P R O C E S S E S

B Y: FRANCI S KE KELI ODO OM

•Coastal processes – Coastal processes are divided

into two parts:
• Marine processes - offshore (water-based)
• Terrestrial processes - onshore (land-based)
•These processes are then sub-divided into:
• Wave action
• Erosion
• Transportation
• Weathering
• Mass movement
•It is these activities that are responsible for producing
distinctive landforms found on the coast
Wave Action
•Waves are marine processes. They erode,
transport and deposit material
•Waves are formed by winds blowing over the
surface of the sea 
•The height and strength of a wave is dependent
on 3 factors:
• The fetch 
• The amount of time the wind blows
• The strength of the wind
•The greater the strength, time and fetch of the
wind, the larger the wave
•As a wave approaches the coast and enters
shallower water, friction from the sea bed
causes the wave to lean forward and eventually
will crest and break onto the beach 
•The movement of water up the beach is called
the swash, and the return movement is
the backwash
•There are two types of waves:
• Destructive waves erode the beach.
They have a short wavelength, high-
frequency rate and a steep wave
gradient. Their backwash is stronger
than their swash, which scours the
beach, dragging material out to sea 
• Constructive waves are beach
builders. They have a long wavelength,
low-frequency rate and a shallow wave
gradient. The swash is stronger than its
backwash, which carries material up
onto the beach and deposits it there  
 Here are the differences between a constructive wave and a
destructive wave

PREREQUISITES

As a wave approaches the coast and enters shallower water, friction

from the seabed causes the wave to lean forward and eventually will
crest and break onto the beach. The movement of water up the
beach is called the swash, and the return movement is the backwash.
Constructive
  Destructive Wave
Wave
Swash Strong Weak
Backwash Weak Strong
Waveleng Long with low
th height Short with high height

Frequenc Low (6-8 per

High (10-12 per minute)
y minute)
Type of Sandy -
Shingle - erosional
beach depositional 
A RE T H E WAVE TY PES
I hope you are enjoying the presentation so far

Extra

I would like to ask some questions on what we have talked about so far if that is ok
with the teacher.

Q1: Which characteristic below best describes the structure

of a destructive wave
 long wavelength & weak
A
backwash

B  short wavelength & weak

backwash

C  short wavelength & strong

backwash
 long wavelength & strong
D backwash Alright! Let’s proceed
SAMURAI
サ Deposition & Transportation

Transportation

ム •Material in the sea arrives from many sources:

• Eroded from cliffs
• Transported by longshore drift along the

ラ
coastline
• Brought inland from offshore by
constructive waves
• Carried to the coastline by a river

イ •Once in the water, the material is moved in

different ways:
• Traction 
• Saltation
• Suspension
• Solution 
 Longshore drift
•It is the main process of deposition and transportation
along the coast 
•Influenced by the prevailing wind, waves approach the
beach at an angle
•As the waves break, the swash carries material up the
beach at the same angle
•As the swash dies away, the backwash carries the

D
material down the beach at right angles (90°) 
•The process repeats, transporting material along the beach
in a zig-zag movement
Climate
Thank you so much for Staying through the whole
presentation.

Feel free to ask any questions about

anything/everything you don’t understand.
Francis
Thank you for your attention!