Apparel Manufacturing-II

Syeda Shirajum Munira

University of Scholars
Lecture-01
 Definition of stitch
According to BS 3870: part-1: 1991: Classification and
terminology of stitch types as
“one unit of conformation resulting from one or more strands or
loops of thread intra-looping, inter looping or passing into or
through the material”

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 Some terminology related to stitch
 Interlacing : when one loop of one thread passes over another
loop of another thread during stitching is called interlacing.

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Continue……….

 Interlooping: when loop of one thread passes through the

loop of another thread during stitching is called
interlooping.

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Continue…………….

 Intra-looping: When a loop of one thread passes through the

loop of same thread during sewing is called intra-looping.

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 Classification of stitch
British standard 3870: part 1: 1991 have been classified according to
ISO 4915: 1991 into six basic type of stitches.

stitch class 100 :Chain stitch

stitch class 200 : Hand stitch
stitch class 300 : Lock stitch
stitch class 400 : Multi thread chain stitch
stitch class 500 : Over edge chain stitch
stitch class 600 : Covering chain stitch

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 Stitch class-100 (chain stitch)

 One needle thread is used for stitch formation.

 Stitches are formed by intralooping.
 A thread is passed through the fabric by the needle & loop is prepared
which is bound with the previous loop made by the same needle. In this
way row of stitch is made.
 Used in flap positioning, temporary joining (because of less secured
stitching), positioning, basting, blind stitching, button holing, button
attaching purposes.
 If one end of the thread is pulled, then the whole sewing will be
opened4.Because of insecurity it is used in BASTING operation of men's
wear and women's wear in apparels using a soft and white cotton thread.
The blind stitching (103) utilizes a curved needle in order to partial
penetration into the fabric.
 The blind stitching (103) utilizes a curved needle in order to partial 7
penetration into the fabric.
Continue…………….

Application: Temporary stitching (e.g. basting) or for blind

stitching.

Side view Top view Bottom view

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 Stitch class -200 (hand stitch)
1. the stitch in this class is similar to hand stitch.
2. It is characterized by a single thread which is passed through the
material as a single line of thread.
3. The stitch is secured by a single line of thread passing in or out of the
material.
4. It is used in the expen sive part of apparel production.
5. stitch type 209 is called pick stitching. A double pointed center - eyed
needle is used for pick stitching.

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Continue…………….
Area of applications:
 Collar of shirt
 Hem of garments.
 Lapel of blazer.
 209 is used outer edges of tailored jacket.
 Saddle stitch: A simple overcasting stitch, usually of a thread
contrasting in color with the fabric, used primarily as ornament
on clothing. A saddle stitch is a decorative, overcasting stitch that
is made at a hem, collar, cuff, pocket or any other visible outside.

Stitch class: 200 (Hand stitch)

Machine: Pinpoint saddle stitch machine

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Saddle stitch:

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Stitch class-300 (lock stitch)
 Two or more sets of threads is used
 Here one set of threads are interlaced with another set of thread
& make bond.
 One set of thread is called needle thread & another set of thread
is called bobbin thread.
 Higher strength.
 Fine yarn is preferable for this type of stitching.
 Both side of this stitch looks same.
 More secured stitch then chain stitch & difficult to unravel.
 Abrasion resistance also very good due to the sewing thread in the
stitches beds on the fabrics.
 Uses: Especially along collar and cuff edges, and fronts of jackets.

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 Stitch type 304 is the zigzag version of the lock stitch.
 Stitch type 306 is the blind stitch version of lock stitch

Application:
1. Joining of facing, collar, pockets and other parts.
2. specially for top stitching.
3. both for domestic and industrial purpose.

Lock stitch 301

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THE END

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