DRAPING

INTRODUCTION

• “Draping is an artistic approach of which the person makes a pattern by directly

manipulating fabric on to the curves of a dress form or human figure”.

• This method requires that the designer drape fabric (muslin) on a dummy or an

individual figure to achieve the desired effect.

• The appearance of the garment is visualized before the actual production process.

• Draping is most preferred by the world’s most popular designers, as this method

brings their vision into reality.

• Draping is the manipulation of fabric on a three dimensional form by a designer to
obtain perfect fit and harmony between the fabric and design of the garment and the
silhouette of the individual.
• T R Cutting draping formation
• 3D Draping
• Haute couture
DRAPING TOOLS
Draping tools are necessary to drape, measure, mark and draft designs.

1. Awl: It is a pointed metal instrument used for punching holes for belt eyelets.

2. 1/8-inch Clear Plastic Ruler: It is a two-inch wide ruler divided into 1/8-inch grids.

3. French Curve Ruler: An irregular curve ruler used to shape and curve edges of collars,

necklines, crotch seams, armhole and hip curves.

4. Iron: A steam-and-dry iron is used to smoothen and flatten and aid in blocking muslin.

5. L-Square: A metal or plastic ruler with two arms of different lengths meeting at right

angles.
6. Muslin: An inexpensive fabric, on which the grain and cross grain are quite visible.
Basically it is used to drape garments made of woven goods.

7. Notcher: A punching tool used to mark the edge of a sloper or paper pattern.

8. Pencils: Pencils are used in developing muslin patterns.

9. Pin Cushion or Pin Dispenser: A sewing tool that keeps pins organized in a convenient
place.

10. Scissors and Shears: Shears are usually four-to eight inches long and made of steel
Bent-handled shears are excellent for easy and straight cutting.

11. Style Tape: A narrow, woven tape that is used to define style lines on the dress form.
12. Straight Pins: Dressmaker pins with sharp tapering points that will not rust are used to anchor
muslin or fabric to the dress form while draping.

13. Tailor’s Chalk: A small piece of chalk, approximately 1 ‘/2” square, with two tapered edges. It is
used to mark lines temporarily on different points of garment and other alteration points.

14. Tracing Wheel: It is a sharp, spike edged circular wheel with a handle, particularly used to
transfer markings from the drape to the pattern paper.

15. Yardstick: A wooden or metal ruler one yard in length (36 inches) that is marked in inches or
metric terms, An aid for laying pattern pieces on the straight grain of the fabric or for measuring
hemlines.
Different Types of Dress Forms

1. Display Dress Form

These are the most basic of them and are mostly used for displaying
garments and the creation of photoshoot samples. It comes in various
sizes with no standard measurements and is the cheapest of them all.
Its features include adjustable hights and easy pinning.

2. Bifurcated dress form

It is similar to professional dress form, with the only difference being
included legs for fittings of shorts and pants.
3. Professional Dress Form
As the name suggests these are made for the sole purpose of the fitting, draping,
pinning, etc. these dress forms are a must for sampling department, boutique houses,
etc. The sizing of these is very much defined but can vary according to
manufacturers. These features include adjustable shoulder for easy put on and
removal of garments, wheel stand for easy mobility, caged bottom to assist hemming.

4. Adjustable dress form

In this dress form the measurements can be changed according to various
sizes. These are very similar to that of display dress-forms in size and
functionality. The sizes can be changed with the dials which are placed at
critical measuring points as in center back, center front, side seam, neck.
Also, they are height adjustable along the waist.
 BASIC STEPS FOR DRAPING
1. Prepping:
The first step is to have perfect and accurate measurements
of the garment or dress form. Next, part is to mark the
center line of the dress by using a tape. This will help to
keep the draping even across the dress.
2. Sketch:
Preparing a sketch or illustration of your garment always
helps in designing the garment. This helps us to give clear
idea about how to go for draping. Here, the sketch will help
to understand how to best manipulate the fabric in order to
get the dramatic and creative effect.
3. Muslin:
This is the most common fabric used in draping process; it
is flexible in its thickness and volume. Thus, giving a
chance to designers for experiment and play around as
your requirement.

4. Pinning:
Pinning is a process which pulls the folds of the fabric
together to create the draping design. Pinning will give
you a good visualization of how the garment will look
after completion.
5. Basting the Fabric:
Once it is finished with draping and pinning, the next step
is to baste the fabric. In this step, either sew the fabric to
the foundation piece or sew the fabric itself to complete
the draping process.

6. Trimming:
The last step is common across various designing
techniques. Here, trim off any excess fabrics that may
remain after it is finished with draping. The raw edges of
the draping should always be hidden neatly in the seams,
so that it looks perfect and clean.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Fashion Draping

Advantages:

• It helps in clear visualization of the garment. With the process of draping, fashion designers can
get a proper idea and visualize that how a dress is going to look at the end, even before starting
to cut, stitch and design the costume.
• The biggest advantage of draping is that it allows room for customization. A dress or a specific
garment can be made as per the concerned person measurements and requirements.
• It results in less wastage of the fabric wherein you can do try out before you actually cut the
fabric.
• The process of draping also allows you to make different paper patterns and designs which can
be used further for idealization of the next dress.
• It is a three dimensional method, the design can be visualized while draping and any necessary
changes or modifications can also be made.
• This helps the designer to achieve the difficult designs by draping different fabrics. For designs
like cowls this method can be used which gives good results.
• A designer can play with many designs and create new designs with the fabric falls to start an
apparel manufacturing process.
• It is a very useful as many variations in the design can be done easily and considered as time
saving method for a fashion designer.
Disadvantages:

• It is an expensive technique of garment construction and not so popular in India.

• Draping requires more skill than required for drafting.
• In this process initially dresses are draped on dummy with a cheaper quality fabric so
sometimes the look of the final garment cannot be assessed correctly by this method.
• As this process is more of a creative and artistic one, it requires having more talent and
fashion sense.
• For more complicated design, you have to have a general sense of the shape before you
start, in order to cut the right size of the fabric.
THANK YOU