COLLAR

S
 Anatomy of the Collar

• Collars are both functional and decorative features sewn to the

neckline of a garment.
• As decoration, the collar is often the focal point of the garment
drawing the eye upward to frame the face.
• As a functional feature, collars often provide warmth and
protection from the elements. Both the neckline and outer edge
of a collar contribute to its overall appearance.
 Anatomy of the Collar

• Collars can be wide or narrow, flat or rolled, cut-on or sewn-

on. The outside edge of the collar can be straight, curved,
scalloped, or pointed. This article describes the anatomy of the
collar, terminology, and style options.
 Anatomy of the Collar

• Collars typically consist of an upper collar, an under collar,

and interfacing. They can be cut on the lengthwise, crosswise,
or bias grainlines depending upon the desired effect and the
type of fabric selected.
 Collar
Collars typically fall into five main categories:

• Stand Collar: collar that has no fall or roll. It stands straight up from the neck

edge. Examples include the mandarin or Nehru.

• Flat Collar: (also called non-convertible) the neckline edge of the flat collar

closely conforms to the neckline edge of the garment. When the garment is

unbuttoned, the collar stays in place. The Peter Pan is an example of a flat collar.
• Rolled Collar: collar that has both a stand and fall integrated into the collar. The

shape of the collar’s neckline edge that attaches to the back neckline of the garment

determines the amount of "roll" a collar will have. In general, he straighter the

neckline edge of the collar, the greater the amount of roll at the back neck.

Examples include the convertible or shirt collar.

• Shawl Collar: collar that is "cut on" or connected to the bodice.

• Notched Collar: two piece collar attached to a "cut on" lapel.

• Collar Classifications

• For sewn-on collars, the neckline seam of the collar will have one of two
basic shapes regardless of the shape or design of the collar styleline.
• Non-convertible Collar: closely follows the actual shape of the neckline.
This type of collar will stay in place when the garment is not buttoned. The
most common example of a non-convertible collar is the Peter Pan collar.
The Peter Pan collar is drafted from the shape of the front and back
neckline seams.
• Convertible Collar: the neckline edge of the collar does not conform to the
neckline edge of the garment. It is typically straight or convex. Convertible collars
are designed to be worn with the garment open or closed. When in the closed
position, the convertible collar appears similar to a half roll collar. When worn
open, the front of the garment folds back to assume the appearance of revers and
the collar has a notched design. Convertible collars are usually sewn with a facing
attached to the bodice front so the garment will have a finished appearance either
way it is worn or sewn to a separate stand
• Collar Terminology
• Neckline Edge: the side of the collar that sews to the neckline of the
garment.
• Stand: the portion of the collar that rises up from the neckline edge.
• Fall: the visible portion of the collar that falls back down over the collar
stand
• Style Line: the outer edge of the collar that defines the design of the collar and where trim
may be added.
• Roll Line: The actual point along which the roll appears when collar is being worn. It may
be imaginary or pressed into a flat edge.
• Break Point: indicates the point where the lapel or revere, which is cut on the bodice,
starts to fold back to form the lapel.
 Sleeves are an important fixture of fashion design and garment
making that have both aesthetic and practical functions. Sleeve
designs can be created in any fabric and any style and they are a
crucial element of a garment’s look and silhouette.
• What Are Sleeves?
• A sleeve is the part of a clothing item, whether a dress, blouse,
jacket, sweater and more, that covers the arm.
• Sleeves can come in a variety of lengths—short, mid-length, or
long.
• All sleeves have an opening at the end that the hand and arm
pass through, and sometimes the sleeve extends beyond the
hand.
• Sleeves can be either tight or loose, depending on the style of
the sleeve.
• A garment that ends at the shoulder line is generally referred to
as sleeveless.
• What Is the Practical Purpose of Sleeves in
Fashion?
• At a practical level, sleeves simply serve to cover
and protect the arms and shoulders, keeping them
out of the sun or providing a level of warmth.
• Beyond their practical function, different styles of
sleeves add to a garment’s silhouette and style and
can create movement and structure to the piece.
• The two main categories of sleeves are Set-in
sleeves and one-piece sleeves.
• Then there are Raglan sleeves that join the bodice
with a slightly curved seam.
• The set-in sleeve refers to those sleeves which are
joined onto the curved armscye. They join the side
seams of the bodice at the underarm.
• The one-piece sleeves are part of the bodice;
Kimono sleeves, Dolman/ Magyar sleeves, and the
batwing sleeves belong to this category.
Sleeve length