Fabric manufacturing-I

Course code-FE 201

Md. Shablu Khan

Instructor
Bangladesh Handloom Education & Training Institute, Narsingdi.
Shed & Shedding
• Dividing of warp thread into two parts for insertion of weft threads is
called shed and the mechanism to form shed is called shedding. It is
the first primary motion of weaving.
• Types of shed (According to the position of the yarn)
1. Closed shed
i. Bottom closed shed
ii. Centre closed shed
2. Open shed
i. Semi-open shed
ii. Open shed
Bottom close shed
 This type of
B
shedding is produced
C
by giving motion
only to threads that
A
are to form the upper
line. Under this condition,
the warp is level in the
bottom line. Hence in A Bottom line of warp
order to form a top shed B Rising and falling line
it is necessary to move C An arrow showing the space
some threads through a passed through
space equal to twice the
depth of a shed.
Advantage Disadvantage of Bottom close shed

Advantage:
• Used in hand loom
• Alternate tightening and slacking the warp threads produce a covered cloth

Disadvantage:
• More stress or tension on top warp line
• Different tension on the warp threads
• Low speed
• Not possible to produce compact fabric
• Poor quality fabric
• More chance of breakage on top warp line
• More power consumption
Centre close shed
• This type of shed is produced by imparting an upward movement
to those threads which are to form the top line and a downward
movement to the threads which are to form the bottom line. Then
after inserting pick both thread lines meet at the centre between
the highest and lowest lines of a divided warp

D
• A Closed warp line
• B, C Upper and lower lines of
a divided warp A A
E
• D Arrow showing the half distance
C
of a shed in an upward direction
E Arrow showing the half distance
of a shed in a downward direction
Advantage Disadvantage of Centre close shed:

Advantage:
• Equal tension on top and bottom warp line
• Less time required, so high production
• Less wear of the machine
• Less power consumption
• Less tear of the threads

Disadvantage:
• Beat up takes place in the closed shed
• Compact fabric can not be produced
• Chance of weft being moved backward
Semi open shed
In this shed, the stationary bottom is retained but threads for the top line either passes to
bottom at one movement and again carried to the top mid way and again carried to top. In
this shed close and open shed occurred simultaneously. In it the stationary bottom line is
retained, but threads for the top line either pass to the bottom at one movement or are
arrested midway and again carried to the top. Such a shed can be formed as expeditiously
as an open shed, for the upward movement begins and ends with the downward through
movement, and the arrested downward movement is converted into an upward
movement immediately the falling threads are in the same plane as the rising ones. They
all reach the top together but the strain upon themF is not equally distributed.
B

C E D

A
A Stationary bottom line
B Top point
C The point where downward movement ceases in threads
D, E Showing the movement of through healds
F Arrow showing the threads which are to lift for the next pick
Advantage Disadvantage of Semi-open shed:

Advantage:
• Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line
• Beat up takes place in the close shed
• Speed faster
• For fancy fabric
• Less power need
• Less tear of threads
• Possible to produce compact fabric

Disadvantage:
unusual movement
Open shed
• In open shed, the warp threads form two stationary lines, the top line and the
bottom line and changes are made by carrying the threads from one fixed line to
the other without any interval.
• A, B Stationary warp line
C, D Arrows which show the movement of rising and falling warp to equal the
distance between A & B

C D

A
Advantage & Disadvantage of Open shed

Advantage:
• Beat up takes place in cross shed condition
• Equal tension top and bottom warp threads
• Faster speed
• Extensively used in tappet shedding mechanism
• Basic fabric (twill, sateen, plain) can be produced
• Less power consumption
• Less wear of loom
Disadvantage:
• High breakage rate
• If higher no. of heald shafts are used, then warp in back healds are more stained than the
front ones
Construction of shedding Tappet: For plain weave

• Points to be taken under consideration:-

• Weave design: plain
• Lift of the tappet: 4”
• The distance from the center of the driving shaft to the nearest point of contact with the treadle
bowl-2”
• Diameter of the treadle bowl-2”
• Dwell period= of a pick
•Construction:
1. A circle ‘A’ is drawn of 2 in radius representing the distance from the center of the driving shaft
or bottom shaft to the nearest point of contact with the treadle bowl.
2. A circle ‘B’ is drawn by adding radius of treadle bowl with A i.e. A = 2, B=A+1=3
3. A circle ‘C’ is drawn of 7. 4 are added for the lift of the tappet. i.e. C=B+4=7
4. The pattern being a plain one, the circles must be divided into two equal parts and each half circle
will then represent one pick indicated by the line DE
5. Each half circle is divided into three equal parts by lines FK,
GH
6. Each of FH and GK is divided into six equal parts
7. A semicircle L is drawn between B and C at a radius of half
of the lift of the tappet (i.e. 2)
8. Divide the circumference of the semicircle into six equal
parts
9. Draw perpendicular from the dividing points of the
semicircle on the line GH. This gives six unequal divisions
on the lift to obtain the desired eccentric shape of the tappet.
10. From the corners of these unequal spaces and with the radius
of the treadle bowl, the drawn circles represent the position
of the treadle bowl at different parts of its movement.
11. The curved lines are drawn touching the extremities of the
treadle bowl. This gives the outline of the plain weave
tappet.
 Negative tappet shedding mechanism
• The figure shows a negative tappet shedding mechanism. A pair of tappets A
and B are fixed to the bottom shaft C at 180 degrees to each other. Two treadle
levers D and E are connected to the loom back-rail by a bracket F.
The bracket acts as a fulcrum for the levers. The two treadles have teeth to carry
the lamb rods G and H respectively. Two heald shafts J and K are connected to
the lamb rods. A top reversing roller shaft Q carries two rollers of different
diameters. The roller of small diameter N is connected to a leather strap L to
which the front heald shaft J is connected. The roller P of large diameter is
connected to a leather strap M to which the back heald shaft K is connected.
The tappets A and B touch the anti-friction bowls or followers R and S
respectively, which are fixed to the treadle levers. The heald shafts have heald
eyes T and U through which the war p threads pass X is the war p sheet and Y is
the cloth. The odd ends are passed through one heald shaft while the even ends
are passed through the other heald shaft.
Basic principle of Tappet shedding:

A and B - Tappets
C - Bottom shaft
D and E - Treadle levers
F - Fulcrum
G and H - Lamb rods
J and K - Heald shafts
L and M - Leather straps
N - Top reversing roller
(Smaller dia)
P - Top reversing roller
(Bigger dia)
Q - Top reversing roller
shaft
R and S - Bowls
T - Heald eye
U - Heald eye
V - Weft yarn
W - Lease rods
X - War p sheet

Y - Cloth
Figure: Negative Tappet Shedding Mechanism
 Positive Tappet Shedding Mechanism

Principle:
In this type of shedding, the heald shaft is raised and lowered by the tappet.

Construction
The tappet shaft carries another tappet which has a groove or track in which a
bowl is placed. The bowl is connected in turn to a tappet lever with link rods,
links J and a heald shaft . Each tappet is separately connected to a heald shaft
through link rods and tappet lever. There are two fulcrums for tappet lever and
links

Working Principle:
When the tappet is rotated, the bowl is also rotated. According to the shape of
the groove, the bowl is moved up or down or is still. If the bowl is moved up, the
tappet lever moves to the right through the links and the heald shaft is lowered.
If the bowl is moved down, the tappet lever moves to the left and the heald shaft
is raised. Since the heald shaft is raised and lowered by means of the
mechanism, this tappet shedding is known as positive tappet shedding
mechanism. When the bowl stands still, the heald shaft is in the dwell stage.
Positive Tappet Shedding
Figure: Positive Tappet shedding
Difference between Tappet & Ordinary cam:
Tappet
It gives motion to a shaft to receive a series of
lifts with intervals of rests.
It is mainly used to produced shed
All tappets are cam
Ordinary cam
It gives a continuous reciprocating motion
It may be used for many purposes
All cams are not tappet

Conditions of good shedding:

 A shed should be as small as the nature of the work to be done
 Healds should be placed at right angles with the warp threads
 Exact vertical movement of the heald shafts are required
 Perfect leveling of the heald shaft
 The heald shafts must begin to move slowly
•Dwell period:
•Dwell is the stationary period when the heald frames do not change their position and the shade
remains open to allow the passage of the shuttle from one shuttle box to the other

•Factors affecting dwell of tappet/Points to be considered with dwell period:

 If the loom width is lower, then dwell period will lower.
 Weave structure: complex structure  DP↑
• Simple structure  DP↓
 Reed space lower and dwell period lower
 No. of warp yarn per inch/ self ends per inch – Shorter dwell period
 Higher picking force – Shorter dwell period
 Type of yarn: for, Finer yarn, shorter dwell period
• And for, coarser yarn, higher dwell period
Dobby
•The dobby is a shedding device placed on the top of a loom in order to produce figure patterns by using a
larger number of healds than the capacity of a tappet.
•Dobby is a mechanism attached with a loom for controlling the movements of heald shafts.
Classification of dobby:
A) According to lift
1. Single-acting or single lift E) According to no. of jack lever
2. Double acting or double lift 1. Single
2. Double
B) According to position of dobby with loom
3. Horizontal loom F) Broadly
4. Vertical loom 3. Ordinary dobby
4. Special dobby
C) According to driving of heald shaft
5. Positive G) Source of control
6. Negative 5. Mechanical dobby
6. Electric dobby
D) According to type of shed
7. Bottom close shed
8. Semi-open shed
9. Open shed
•Negative (Climax, Hook & Knife) dobby:
•In this fig, A and B are two complementary jack levers, operated from the same baulk-lever 1,
controlled by hooks P and Q to govern the heald. The baulk-levers are centered on a pin. The
distinctive features of this dobby are the construction of the outer jack leer A in one part. Instead of
two parts and its attachment with the inner jack by means of a link C. the peg-levers or feelers Y and
Z are modifications of the levers SY and TY and sufficiently weighted at the back so as to make their
own gravity.
•Other arrangements of this dobby remain the same as those of the ‘Keighley’. The jack levers A and
B are fulcrumed at H and I respectively.
•There is a pattern cylinder below the feelers. There is a peg chain in a pattern cylinder, and it is
made according to fabric design.
Working principle:
I. When the connecting rod moves up and down and T-lever gives outward and inward movement.
II. According to fabric design, when peg come in contact with the feeler, then the right portion of feeler is
raised, and the left portion being lowered. As hooks are supported with feeler; hooks are lowered.
III. When the left end of feeler is lowered, then upper hook came in contact with upper knife. In this state,
when connecting rod moves down, the upper portion of T-levers gives outward movement.
IV. As a result, upper portion of S-lever, baulk lever also moves to the right side. Thus, a pull create on timber
lever and link.
V. As outside and inside jack lever joined with timber lever and link, the lever moves up at the same time.
VI. Hence the heald shaft rose up.
VII. Similarly, when the left end of feeler (Y) is lowered, then lower hook come in contact with lower knife. In
this state, when connecting rod moves up and the bottom portion of T-lever moves to the right side.
VIII.As a result, bottom portion of S-lever moves to the right and the same process occurs i.e., top portion of the
baulk lever moves to the right. Jack levers are moved up at the same time.
IX. Hence the heald shaft again rose.
X. Thus, a heald shaft is alternatively raised by the upper knife and lower knife.
XI. The shaft will there fore be lowered with the help of return spring and will remain down for next pick.
Positive dobby: Knowles dobby:
Working principle:
I) According to design of fabric, the bowls are placed on pattern chain.
II) Due to rotation of pattern cylinder when a bowl comes under the feeler lever, then the lever moves upward.
III. As a result, the toothed disc(A) goes upward and becomes engaged with the top segment
cylinder C1. as the top segment cylinder(C1) rotates in anticlockwise direction, the toothed
disc(A) rotates in clock-wise direction due to its clockwise rotation the connecting lever moves
to right side.
IV. As a result, the jack lever pulls the connecting cord and the heald frame goes downwards.
V. Again, when there is no bowl under feeler lever the toothed disc(A) moves downward and
becomes engaged with bottom segment cylinder C2. Now as C2 rotates in clockwise direction,
the toothed disc(A) will rotate in anticlockwise direction.
VI. So, the connecting lever will now move to left side. As a result, the jack lever will now
experience an upward pull via connecting cord.
VII. The toothed disc A, in both case, will give half a revolution as the cylinders(C1 & C2) have tooth
around half of their periphery.
VIII. The rotation of toothed is controlled by slot and peg. When the edge of slot is hindered by peg,
then the rotation of toothed disc stops.
 Positive dobby Negative dobby
1. Both raising and lowering of the heald shafts are 1. Only raising of heald shafts is controlled
controlled mechanically. mechanically.
2. Arrangement of spring or dead weight is not 2. Arrangement of spring or dead weight is required
required. for lowering the healed shafts.
3. Normally open shed produce. 3. Normally closed/semi-open shed is produced.

4. Two extra heald shafts are required. 4. No extra heald shaft required.

5. Normally heavy fabric and coarse fabric produced. 5. Light and medium fabric.

6. Low speed of frame. High speed of loom.

7. Less stress and strain in warp sheet. 7. High stress and strain on warp.
8. This loom is driven by crank shaft. 8. Driven by bottom shaft.
Basic principles of Jacquard shedding mechanisms
Jacquard is a shedding device which is mounted on the loom. By this mechanism any warp can be selected. Any figure
or design may be produced by this. For producing beautiful and intricate ornamental designs in forms and colors, in
which a large no. of warp threads are required to be controlled individually a jacquard shedding is employed.
•Classify Jacquard with various points of view. E. According to the pitch of the needles:
A. Broadly classification. a. Fine pitch Jacquard.
b. Medium pitch jacquard.
a. Ordinary Jacquard.
c. Coarse pitch jacquard.
b. Special Jacquard.
F. According to the lifting:
• e.g.: Cross –border jacquard. a. Single lift single cylinder.
B. According to the source of drive: b. Double lift double cylinder.
a. Hand Jacquard. G. According to the harness mounting:
b. Power Jacquard. a. Single tie –up.
i. Mechanical jacquard. b. Repeating tie –up.
c. Mixed tie –up.
ii. Electrical Jacquard.
d. Pointed tie –up.
C. According to the type of shed:
H. According to the mixed /combined shedding:
a. Bottom closed shed. a. Jacquard with tappet or cam.
b. Centre closed shed. b. Jacquard with dobby.
c. Semi –open shed. c. Jacquard with tappet & dobby.
d. Open –shed. I. According to position of mechanism:
D. According to the figuring capacity: a. London Jacquard.
•100’s, 200’s, 300’s, ………………..etc. b. Norwich Jacquard.
S.L.S.C. Jacquard: (Basic Principle of
Jacquard)
Construction:
•S.L.S.C. Jacquard is the original and the simplest type of jacquard. It works on bottom closed shed type of
shedding mechanism. Here one set of knife with griffe controlled the hooks. The hooks are controlled by
needles of one cranked eye and every needle selected one hook in that pick. One neck cord with harness cord is
controlled by this mechanism.

Mechanism:
• During the cycle of operation one of the faces of the cylinder together with a card is brought against
the needle board. If a hole is punched in the card the corresponding needle will project through in the cylinder.
the hook controlled by that needle will remain is such a position that its upper hooked end un punched will be
caught by the raising knife. The un punched position of the card will press back the needle & consequently the
hook controlled by that will be away from the path of the using knife. Thus the hook gets selection according to
the design cut for a particular card.
 a
d b
c
e
g
No. of Jacquard =
f Total Ends =
Total no. of Harness Cord =
Total no. of dead weight =
Total no. heald wire
h Here, Total no. of neck cord
Total no. of hook =
a→ Hook.
b→ Knife. Total no. of needle =
i Total no. of knife =
c→ Needle.
d→ Needle board. Total no. of pattern card =
j e→ Pattern cylinder
f→ Pattern chain.
g→ Spring box.
h→ Grid bar.
i→ Neck cord.
k
j→ Tug board.
k→ Harness cord.
l l→ Comber board.
m→ Heald wire.
n→ Dead weight.
m

Fig: S.L.S.C. Jacquard m/c.

Compare between Tappet, Dobby and Jacquard shedding:

Tappet shedding Dobby shedding Jacquard shedding

1. Design capacity- simplest 1. Medium i.e. complex 1. Elaborate i.e. very complex

2. Cost of loom- most costly 2. Less 2. Very less

3. Loom speed- very high 3. Medium to high 3. Slow

4. Maximum no. of heald shafts- 14 4. Theoretically it can controls maximum 4. Theoretically it can control any no. of
48 heald frames. In wool, practically 36 warp thread individually
heald
In cotton, 24

5. Tappet is placed generally below the 5. Above the loom 5. Above the loom
loom

6. Cost of production- lowest 6. Lower 6. Low

7. For different designs different tappets 7. For different designs, different design of 7. For different design, different designed
are fitted to bottom shaft pegging legs are placed on pinched cards are places on cylinder
cylinder/pattern drum

8. Production is more than the dobby 8. Less production 8. Less production

Possible questions from this chapter
• Define shedding mechanism with examples.
• Explain different types of shed.
• Draw various shed diagram for a certain weave.
• Write down the basic principle of SLSC shedding mechanism.
• Calculate details for a specific logo/name in case of jacquard shedding
mechanism.
• What are the conditions of good shedding.
• Explain negative tappet shedding mechanism.
• Construct a shedding tappet for plain weave.