Fabric

Fundamentals
End-Term Assignment
 TABLE OF CONTENT

01. DENIM CHEMICAL WASHES 03.

02. DENIM WASHES MECHANICAL WASHES 04.

Denim
Washes
01. DENIM
INTRODUCTION
 Denim is a most popular dress material that has acclaimed most
popularity in the past three decades. It’s a rugged cotton twill
textile, in which the weft passes under two (twi- "double") or more
warp threads.

This twill weaving produces the familiar diagonal ribbing of the

fabric, which distinguishes denim from cotton duck. It

consists of dyed warp and grey weft. Most of the Denim fabric
construction is either 2/1 or 3/1 construction of either left or right
handed twill.
02. DENIM WASHES
.
DENIM WASHING

It is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal
and to provide strength. The emphasis is
on Comfort and Softness.

In denims, garment washing is done to produce effects like color fading

with or without patchiness, crinkles, seam puckering, hairiness, de-pilling,
softened-hand feel, stabilized dimensions etc.

Denim washing is known as one of the finishing treatment that has vast
usage because of creating special appearance and updating clothes.
Denim washing are of two types:

MECHANICAL WASHES
• Stone wash

• Micro sanding

CHEMICAL WASHES
• Denim bleaching

• Enzyme wash

• Acid wash
03. CHEMICAL
WASHES
Denim Bleaching
In this process a strong oxidative bleaching agent
such as sodium hypochlorite or KMnO4 is added
during the

washing with or without stone addition.

Discoloration produced is usually more apparent
depending on strength of the

bleach liquor quantity, temperature and treatment

time. It is preferable to have strong bleach with
short treatment time.

Care should be taken for the bleached goods so

that they should be adequately antichlored or after
washed with peroxide to

minimize yellowing. Materials should be

carefully sorted before processing for color
uniformity.
 Enzyme Wash
This is a bio-catalytic method where in an ultra- soft handle effect can be produced on denim. The hydrolytic effect of
enzymes causes the loss of surface fibre, which improves surface smoothness and softness of the fabric.
Cellulase enzymes are natural proteins, which are used in denim garment processing to get stone wash look on to the denim
garments without using stones or by reducing the use of pumice stone. • Cellulase attacks primarily on the surface of the
cellulose fibre, leaving the interior of the fibre as it is, by removing the indigo present in the surface layer of fibre.
 FLOW CHART OF ENZYME WASH

DECOLORIZ ENZYME
BATCHING LOADING DESIZING (IF ENZYME FINISHING/
ATION (IF NEUTRALI DRYING
NECESSARY) WASH NECESSARY ZATION SOFTENING
)
Acid Wash
Acid wash can be carried on Indigo & Sulphur base fabric
garments.

Acid wash is a chemical wash on denim which stripped

the top layer of color and make a white surface while the
color remained in the lower layers of the material, giving it
a faded look

This wash is being carried out by pre soaking stones in

bleach and then followed by neutralization.

Acid wash of denim garment normally carried out by

tumbling the garments with pumice stones presoaked in a
solution which contains sodium hypochlorite (5 to 10%) or
potassium permanganate (3 to 6%).

In this wash addition of water is not required. The color

contrast can be increased by optical brightening treatment.
04. MECHANICAL
WASHES
.
 Denim Hand Sand / Scraping
Hand sand is step which is generally being done in rigid form of
garments to get distress look.
Locations can be front thigh & back seat or it can be overall / global
application as per Standard. Emery paper is
being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design.
Emery paper comes in different number generally starts from 40 till
600 and above, higher the number finer the
emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In garment industry
from 220, 320 & 400 number papers are most
popular & widely used.
The most important factor is to select right number of paper according
to the fabric strength & intensity need. Scraping can be done on
inflated rubber balloons for better effect (horizontal or vertical it’s up
to operator’s
convenience), even it can done on plain wooden board of garment
size & hand pressure should be uniform in
order to get better results.
Hand sanding must be started from intense part & feathering out on
less intense part gradually.
Stone Wash
This method is most common and is used to give denim an 'old-
look'. Pumice stone is one of the most important components used to
abrade the surface of the fabric to obtain a surface pattern effect with
color contrast and soft - handle.

In this process, the fibres on the surface of the fabric are broken and
removed and the inner white fibres of the warp yarn are gradually
exposed. Natural patterns can be formed as the degree of abrasions
varies in various parts of the garment.

Selection of Stone

• According to the end product & effect required.

• Large, hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy weight
fabrics only.

• Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight fabrics and
more delicate items.
 SAND BLASTING
Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular, powdered or other form through a nozzle at
very high speed and pressure onto specific areas of the garment surface to be treated to give the desired distressed/
abraded/used look.
• It is purely mechanical process, not using any chemicals.
• It is a water free process therefore no drying required.
• Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible.
• Any number of designs could be created by special techniques
WHISKERING
On denim, Whiskers/moustaches, chevrons are nothing but the worn
out lines / impression generated by natural wearing on hip & thigh
area. There are many designs & pattern available.

This is being done manually with help of sharp edge emery paper
roller on fine wood stick or pasted on plastic material. Before starting
execution placements. Industrially done with laser, sandblasting,
machine sanding, hand sanding and abrasive rods.
 Tie and Dye Effect
In this effect, the fabric of the garment is tied after folding using plastic pins and then washed. The
pins are
detached / broken after washing and the fabric in the folded areas is less washed as compared to the
edges created by
folding and contained relatively high intensity of original colors.
Black or Gray
Black or gray jeans are created using a dying process
that is like traditional blue jeans, yet different dye colors
are used. This is also the process for colored jeans such
as red, purple, or green.
Coated Denim
PU (Polyurethane) coating is applied on the fabric in the
mill after weaving. It will not deteriorate during
laundering and so this type of coating will last the for
the line life of the garment.
Laser Technology
It is a computer controlled process for denim fading.
Vintage denim
The vintage or worn-in look is caused by multiple
This technique enables patterns to be created such as washing and finishing processes. The color level of the
lines and/or dots, images, text or even pictures. It is jeans is changed and may be modified to give the jeans
water free fading of denim. This technique has relatively the look of old denim. The tint can be altered and the
high cost. material hand-scraped to give the jeans a vintage look,
even if they were recently manufactured.
The laser technology utilizes a beam of light, to produce
a non-contact mark on the denim fabric. When
engraving denim, the laser burns away the indigo dye to
produce a worn look.
 RESOURCES
● https://thejeansite.com/stone-wash-jeans-and-other-types-of-denim/
● https://www.burton.co.uk/blog/denim-washes-and-finishes/
● https://www.deniminnovation.com/2019/02/11/different-types-of-dry-process-for-denim-wash/
● https://www.garmonchemicals.com/en/textile-chemicals/garment-denim-finishing/enzyme-stone-
washing
● https://www.researchgate.net/publication/303205771_MNF_Technology_of_industrial_denim_wa
shing_review
● https://www.slideshare.net/anurag571/denim-wash
● https://www.textileflowchart.com/2015/03/process-flow-chart-of-enzyme-wash.html
 ALTERNATIVE RESOURCES
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7276194.jpg
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lly-pleasing-gmail.jpg a332afb68e84260fc1a5af9607b8f5c9-1574448652.jpg?
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• https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0186/1574/products/OU1388460SB-WT26-1_2000x • https://www.mottandbow.com/media/wysiwyg/denimscience/ds_scraping.jpg
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 ALTERNATIVE RESOURCES
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max/rotate=deg:exif/resize=height:335,fit:scale/output=quality:90/compress/https://c
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m.jpg
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• https://i.pinimg.com/474x/e4/ba/20/e4ba205452786f833e103e9ef1f64f38--raw-jeans-
raw-denim.jpg
THANK YOU
Submitted by: Mahica Negi

Submitted to: Dr. Chet Ram Meena