MYSELF:SHUVO BRAHMA

Lecturer Wet Processing & engineering department (BUTEX)

• CELL: 01733767475
• EMAIL: shuvobrahma201@gmail.com
 EDUCATION & JOB EXPERIENCE
EDUCATION:
BSC: BUTEX 36TH BATCH(W.P.E.)
MSC: BUTEX 5TH BATCH(ON GOING)(W.P.E.)
JOB EXPEIENCE:
COMPANY/UNIVERSITY POSITION

1.EPYLLION KNITEX LTD EXECUTIVE IN DYEING

(E.K.L) PRODUCTION

2. NITER(D.U Tech Dept) LECTURER

 Syllabus
Part-A:
• Introduction to printing.
• Special printing.
 Chap:1
Introduction
 What is Printing?
• The textile printing is the art of design by
mechanical and chemical application. It entails
the localised of dye of pigment the design being
created by different colour or motives.
OR
• By the term “ Textile printing” we mean the
localised application of dyes or pigments and
chemicals by any method which can produce
particular effect of colour on the fabric
accurding to the design.
Difference bet Dyeing & Printing
Steps in Textile Printing
Grey textiles / Raw materials
↓
Preparation of textile mtls
( singening, desizing , bleaching scouring)

Preparation of printing paste

Printing (with a certain style and method)

Drying of the printed fabric (in the drier)

Steaming of the printed fabric
(to transfer dye into fibre, 100-102 0 C, 15 min in a steamer)

After treatment (Soaping of washing
 Styles of printing
Style refers to the manner by which particular action is
performed. It is chemical operation. Styles of printing means
the manner in which a printed effect is produced.
1. Direct style.
2. Dyed style.
3. Discharge style
4. Resist style
5. Raised style
6. Azoic style
7. Metal style
8. Flock style
9. Creap style
Methods of Printing
 Printing Ingredients
1. Dyes/Pigments
2. Wetting agent.
3. Thickener
4. Solvents/dispersing agent
5. Defoaming agent
6. Oxidizing and reducing agent.
7. Catalyst and oxygen carrier.
8. Acid and alkalis
9. Carrier and swelling agents.
10. Miscellaneous agents
 Printing Ingredients
Dyes/Pigments:
– Attraction of dye stuff to the fibre due to presence of auxochrome.
– To achieve colour effect on the fabric
– To produce required shade.
e.g. Vat, Azoic, Reactive, direct etc.
Wetting agents:
– To wet the fabric as well as dyestuff.
– To reduce surface tension of water allowing the dyestuff for easy
penetration into fibre.
– To obtain smooth paste.
– To dissolve the dyestuff in the paste
e.g.: Olive oil, T.R oil, caster oil etc.
Lissapol N. Animal oil, Glycerine
 Printing Ingredients
Solvents/dispersing agents/solution acids:
– To get bright design.
– To assist dye penetration
– To spread dye moles evenly in the past.
– Assist dye fixation.
– To prevent aggregation of dye molecules in the highly concentrated of the dye.
– To prevent precipitation.
– To increase solubility of the dyes.
– To make proper printing shade
e.g.: Urea, Glycerine, desirable, Alcohol, Acetone, Diethylene glycol, Thio
diethy lene glycol
Thickener:
– To give required viscosity to the printing paste.
– To prevent premature reactions betn the chemicals contained in the print paste.
– To hold the ingredients of the print paste on the fabric
Ex: Na-alginate, fine gum, british gum, CMC
 Printing Ingredients
Defoaming agents:
– To prevent the foam generation during printing.
• e.g. Silicone, defoamers, sulphated oil, perminol KB,
Emulsified pine oil.
Oxidising agent:
– To develop the final colour during steaming or in the
subsequent after treatment.
– Assists to dye fixation.
• e.g.: Sodium chlorate, Potasium chlorate, Sodium
nitrate, Resist Salf Ammonium chloride, Ludigol, Na or
 Printing Ingredients
Reducing agent:
• Used for reduction of different dyes.
• Used for mainly in discharge printing.
• To destroy colour from the ground of fabric.
• To make the insoluble dyes to soluble
• e.g. Sodium hydrosulphite, Stanus chloride etc. Rongolite-C
•

Catalyst and oxygen carrier:

– To prevent fibre damage during steaming.
– Accelerate the final colour development by oxidation.
– Reduce the risk of oxidisation.
• e.g. Copper sulphide, Amimonium vanadate, Potassium
ferrocyanide.
 Printing Ingredients
Acids/Alkalis:
– To maintain PH
– To develop the colour or printed fabric.
– To fix dye on the fabric permanently.
• e.g. Organic acid Alkali KOH, NaOH, Na2CO3, potassium
carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, Sodium acetate.
Swelling agent:
– To create the big size holes of the fibres.
– Helps to swell the fibre structure.
– To reduce crystallinity.
– Help the easy penetration of dye molecule inside the fibre polymer.
– e.g. Polyethylene glycol, Phenols, DEGDA (di-ethylene glycol.
diacetate)
 Printing Ingredients
Carrier:
• Used for fixing disperse dyes on polyester or polyester wool blends
at temp below 105oC.

Miscellaneous agent: Hygroscopic agent:

– Assist fixation of dyes.
– Absorb moisture from air.
– Facilitates subsequent washing off.
• e.g. Urea, glycerine etc.
 Thickener

Definition: Thickener is a thick mass which imparts

stickness and plasticity to the print paste so that it
may be applied on the fabric surface without bleeding
or spreading and be capable of maintaining the
design out lines.
Function or Object or Purpose of Thickener:
• To give the required viscosity to the printing paste.
• To prevent premature reactions between the chemicals
contained in the print paste.
• To hold the ingredients of the print paste on the
fabrics.
 Factors to be considered to select/choice
of a Thickener

• Type and quality of mtl. to be printed.

• Compatibility with dyes and chemicals.
• Print paste stability.
• Styles and methods of printing.
• Properties of the dried thichener film.
• Effect on colour yield, such as-diffusion, fixation.
• Preparation and removal of the thickner.
• Cost.
• Biological oxygen demand
Classification of Thickener
 Essential Quality of Thickener
• Stability to keeping (physical-cheical stability) should be
good.
• It should have certain physical and chemical properties
such as viscosity, flow property, ability to adhere and wet
to the internal surface of etchings of the engraved roller.
• It must be compatible with the other ingredients of the
printing paste.
• The thickener film should dry properly on the fabric to
prevent spreading of the colour by capillary action.
• Proper extraction of water from steam during steaming
should be ensured to provide free space for the dye
molecules to move towards the fabric.
 Essential Quality of Thickener
• The thickener should not have affinity for the dye and
should not keep the dye from the fabric.
• The thickener molecule should have a control over the
free water pick up and not carry the dye beyond the
boundaries of the impression.
• The thickener should be cheap and available in abundance.
• After perform printing, the useable media i.e. Block, Roller,
Screen should be easily cleanable.
• Once the dye is transferred from the thickener film
(desizing steaming) the removal of the exhausted
thickener film without fetching water soluble dye should
be easy.
 Printing Defects
• Printing can be defined as localized application of dye or pigment
in a paste form to generate a pattern or design in the fabric. It is
also called localized dyeing. Nothing is perfect. During textile
printing process, different types of defects occur in printed
fabric. If you are running an industry and managing printing
section, then all you need is to consider these defects that will
distort the worth of your fabric. Printing defects may result from
faulty or improper printing procedures, faulty or improper
preparation of fabric prior to printing or from imperfections in
the material being printed or to imperfections in the material
itself. Here, we are listing some of the major textile printing
defects to detect for setting a high quality standard for your
textile industry.
 Types
The defects which occurred in printing process are given below:
1. Flushing/Wicking
2. Bleeding
3. Misfits
4. Stick-ins
5. Scrimps
6. Banding
7. Unwanted pigment marking on Fabric
8. Mottled
9. Crack or Miss Alignment in Transfer Printed Fabric
10. Printing Machine Stop
11. Color out
 The causes of these defects
1. Flushing/Wicking:
Caused due to Low viscosity of print paste. It occurs when the printed area bleeds out
into the unprinted area. The result is a haloing or shadowing effect around the outline of
the pattern design.

2. Bleeding:
Caused due to Low viscosity of print paste
It is major defect as it happens throughout the fabric unless the viscosity is corrected.

3. Misfits:
A misfit is a print defect caused by improper alignment of the screens. Also known as out
of registration, misfits leave unprinted areas in the design.
For example, a green leaf may overlap its black outline or print over another color.

4. Stick-ins:
A stick-in occurs when a small fiber or piece of lint gets stuck in the screen opening.
The result is a small unprinted circle in the design. A stick-in is very difficult to see and
often goes unnoticed during a long run.
 The causes of these defects
5. Scrimps :
A scrimp defect occurs when the fabric creases underneath one of the screens during
the printing process. The pattern is then printed on top of the crease, leaving a large
unprinted area when the fabric returns to its relaxed state.

6. Banding:
Defect created by the print head’s movement over the substrate. Use of scanning
print head, or a print head that moves back and forth across the substrate in straight
line placing drops of ink at precise locations along the line.
If the head is not properly aligned, or if the substrate advances unevenly, the result is
a slight horizontal band or line of unprinted area.

7. Unwanted pigment marking on Fabric:

Caused due to screen has holes in it that should have been covered. This could be
because of ageing of the screen and eventual damage or just improper exposure to
light.
 The causes of these defects
8. Mottled :
Color applied unevenly during printing.

9. Crack or Miss Alignment in Transfer Printed Fabric :

Incomplete transfer of design from paper to fabric on transfer printing
due to removal of transfer of paper while the fabric was still hot.

10. Printing Machine Stop:

As a result of printing machine stop the dye sometimes is smudged
along the width of the fabric.

11. Color out:

The result of color running low in reservoir on printing machine.
 Pigment Printing

• Pigment are insoluble colouring matter mostly

mineral origin have been used for the
colouration of metal wood, stone, and textile
material.
 Basic principle: Material necessary for
pigment printing
• Pigments( Multi colour)
• Film former(Binder)(Polymeric material)
• Cross linking agent(Fixer)
• Catalyst (To accelerate X-linking)
• Wetting agent
• Etc.
• Cross linking is occurred in Acetic Acid
medium in pH=(5-5.5)
 Required Properties of Pigments
• Pigments should have good covering power.
• Pigments should have freely mixing properties.
• Pigments should be chemically inert.
• Pigments should have good resistance to Acid.
• Pigments should be resistance to solvent.
• Pigments should have suitable brilliance , hardness, and stability.
• Pigments should have good wet , light, and abrasion resistance.
• Pigments should have good characteristics for excellent
• Dispersion including :
– Particle size and distribution
– Electrical charge
– Specific gravity
– Purity and crystalline structure
– Condition of Precipitation
– Should be applied to all fibre

• Should be cheap
 Functions of ingredients of print paste in
pigment printing
The functions of the ingredients of the print paste of pigment printing are
mentioned below:
Pigment: Pigment impart color to the print.
Binders & Fixers: Binders are long chain polymer macromolecules. They imparts
stickiness and plasticity to the print paste. They help to adhere the pigment
particles on the fibre surface. Binders and fixers play important rolls in pigment
printing in achieving optimum fastness properties.OR
Binder is a film forming substance made up of long chain macro moles which
when applied to the three – dimensionally linked network.
Fixers are cross linking printing agents which help the binders in their functioning,
Catalyst: Catalysts promote the cross linking reaction, leading to fixation of the
binder to the fabric. Catalysts to the fixation of the binder to the fabric. Catalysts
are acid – liberating agents which under suitable conditions initiate the cross
linking reactions.
 Characteristics of a good binder
• It should not impart any harsh and stiff handle to the fabric. It
should create a soft handle.
• It should impart good rubbing and washing fastness property to
t he print.
• It should not impart any unhygienic on bad chemical effect on
the print.
• It should form a film like coating on the fabric the curing process
and should have good sticking capacity to hold the fibre and
pigment particles together.
• The coating produced by binder should be transparent.
• It should be cheap and available and should have a long lasting
effect on print.
 Pigments printing
Pigment-------30 parts
Binder---------600 parts
Fixer-----------10 parts
Na alginate---100(50% solution)
White sprit---250 parts

Total --1000 parts

After printing the fabric is dried and cured for making
X- linking of the binder film with the fabrics.
Pigments printing
Advantage and Disadvantage of Pigment Printing

Advantage:
• Applicable to natural and synthetic fibre
• Wide range of color can be produced
• Can be used for dope dyeing for filament yarn.
• Easy applicable
• Less expensive
Disadvantage:
• Not controllable for the binder film
• Use of solvent like kerosene, spirit etc can produce problems like
flammability, odor, pollution etc.
• The jamming up of equipment and air and water pollution in observed .
• Wet and rubbing fastness is average.
 Chap:3
Special Printing
 Special Printing
1. Transfer printing
2. Ink jet printing
3. Flock printing
4. Burn out printing
Transfer printing
 Transfer printing
• Transfer printing in textile means the sublimation of dyes from a
colored design on paper at high temperature followed by
absorption of the dye vapors by synthetic fibres in the fabric.
• The process of transfer printing consists of transferring the colored
design from pre-printed paper to fabric under the action of
controlled condition of temperature, time ands pressure.
• Transfer printing was first patented in France in 1958. But it came
in market commercially as heat transfer printing in 1968.
• Both woven and knitted fabric s can be transfer printed but the
major use of this method is on knitted items. This printing process
may either be continuous or batch wise by which T-shirts, sweaters
or other partially or fully assembled garments can be printed.
 Conditions required for Transfer printing
• A range of miscible dyes that sublime at high temperature preferably in a
narrower range and have substantivity for synthetic fibres to be printed
but little or no affinity for the pre-printed paper.
• The molecular weight of these dyes falls in the range 230 to 370 which can
further be narrowed to 250 to 340.
• The synthetic fibre fabrics should have necessary physical, chemical and
thermoplastic properties to withstand the high processing temperature.
The fabric must be dimensionally stable up to a temperature of 220 0C
during the transfer period to ensure good pattern definition.
• The dye should readily sublime at around 200 0C temperature
• A means of printing the paper to meet the high quality of design is
needed.
• A method of transferring the design from the paper to the fabric is
needed.
 Advantages of Transfer printing
• The capital cost of the equipment is low.
• Space requirement is also small.
• A skill printer is not required though careful control of temperature and
pressure is needed.
• A clear and sharp definition of all objects is possible
• The proportion of sub-standard quantity is as low as 2%.
• Since the printed fabric does not need any treatment, it does not contribute
to water pollution problem.
• It gives good prints on well prepared knitted goods.
• No adverse effect on fabric feel and luster.
• It allows excellent dye penetration into the fibre (because transfer takes place
at very high temperature.)
• Steaming, washing, drying etc are not necessary.
• Quicker reactions to changes in fashions, shorter delivery time.
 Types of Transfer printing
• Sublimation or dry or vapour phase
printing(Heat transfer printing)
• Wet or migration transfer printing.
• Film release transfer printing.
• Melt transfer printing.
 Sublimation or dry or vapor phase
printing(Heat transfer printing)

 This is the most widely used transfer printing

process, which became commercially available in
1929-30 in England.
 This is a physical process where a design is
replaced from one material to a textile substrate.
 It is a physical transfer of a colored design from a
paper to a fabric having all round fastness.
 Sublimation or dry or vapor phase
printing(Heat transfer printing)
Two step required for printing
• 1st Step: The pattern/design is printed on a special paper by
paper printing or modified textile printing machinery using
printing paste/ink(containing volatile disperse dyes and
suitable thickener/ binders). This printed paper is the n dried
at low temperature.
• 2nd step: The transfer of the printed design/ pattern from the
paper to the textile substrate is effected by forming a
sandwitch of printed paper and textile fabric followed by
exposure to heat and pressure at a time in a suitable
machine specially developed for this purpose(transfer
printing machine).
 Sublimation or dry or vapor phase
printing(Heat transfer printing)
• The sublimed dye vapour diffuses into the gap between
paper and fabric to be condensed on to the fabric
surface and subsequently diffuses into interior of the
fibres.
In this transfer printing –
• Heat requirement varies from 150 0-2300C practically
1700-2100C.
• Time requirement is 15-20sec.
• Only non-ionic volatile dyes are suitable.
• Polyester and cellulose triacetate are suitable to print.
 Quality of print paper for transfer printing
• Paper weighing from 35 to 115 gsm has been used depending on the printing
method.
• The paper should be sufficiently strong to prevent the tearing in high speed
printing.
• The paper should exhibit good “hold-out”-that is, the liquid ink should not
penetrate the paper surface more than is essential for the stability of the image.
• The paper has to be dimensionally stable during transfer process to avoid image
distortion.
• Good release of dye vapours from the ink layer.
• Stability to heat up to 2200C.
• Low permeability to dye vapour as well as low water and oil absorbency.
• Paper should have a smooth surface.
• Paper should be free from metal because some disperse dyes are metal
sensitive.
 Inks used in transfer printing
• Inks used in transfer printing are made up of
• Dyestuff + Vehicle +Thickener
• Some selected and special quality dyestuffs wit required
characteristics are used as dyestuffs for making inks. The
dyes should sublime at high temperature.
• Vehicle makes dyestuff dissolve e.g. sprit, glycol, tolune,
ethyl methyl ketone, iso-propanol etc.
• Thickeners act as binding agents and impart viscosity
e.g. Polyvinyl acetate, cellulose esters, acrylic resins etc.
The features required for printing inks
• The ink must be volatile at the transfer temperature.
• The dye molecules must be relatively small in size and
should contain as few ionic substituent's as possible.
Because ionic groups may limit or inhibit volatilization.
• Vehicles (solvents) should be a volatile liquid such as
tolune in a gravure printing ink, ethanol/water mixture in
a flexographic ink etc.
• Dye molecules should possess a minimum number of
polar auxochromes such as –NO2, -NH2 etc.
• Inks should be specially purified and made up without
the use for dispersing agents.
 Types of transfer printing M/C
1. Flat bed process transfer printing M/C.
2. Continuous transfer printing M/C.
3. Vacuum transfer printing M/C.
 Flat bed process Transfer
Printing M/C
• It is suitable to print the garments.
• It is suitable to print both side of fabric.
• Time of printing is settled to the M/C.
• The no. of printed garments per hr. is 50
to 100.
• Heated is carried out by electricity or super
heated steam.
 Working principle
• In this M/C printing is performed by three steps-
• At first fabric to be printed is fed to endless blanket.
• In this step, fabric comes to press bed and pre-printed
paper is placed on the fabric in press bed. In this
step, temp normally 1800C to 2200C and time 30-40s
pressing is given by a pair of cylinder with air.
• The press bed or heated plate is then lifted and this
printed fabric is stored by moving through blanket.
• In the moment the another cycle is starts.
Flat bed process Transfer
Printing M/C
Continuous Transfer Printing M/C
In this M/C, design is transferred from
printing paper to fabric. After printing by
this M/C no need of fixation or wet
treatment.
 Working principle
• In this M/C, since preprinted paper and fabric contact to each
other passes through, design is transfered to fabric which is
done in a biggest heated cylinder.
• Here, cylinder is heated at 2200C in interlly and design is
transferred due to the pressure of cylinder and pre-printed
paper.
• A tension device is used for pressure of printing paper to fabric.
• Required time for printing is 15-30 s.
• Backing paper is used for uniform pressure fabric and transfer
paper.
• The speed of M/C is 1300 m/hr.
• The speed of machine varies between 6-15 m/min depending on the
diameter of the heated cylinder
Continuous Transfer Printing M/C
 Vacuum Transfer printing
• Both continuous and unit transfer printing machine have been redesigned
to provide vacuum assisted transfer.
• The drawing of dye into the fabric from the printing paper is achieved by
means of vacuum produced in a cylinder. The cylinder is manufactured from
a finely perforated steel mantle with surface profile and perforations. Due
to this even vacuum the paper and fabric are wrapped around the cylinder,
ensuring an intimate contact pressure between the paper and fabric.
• The composite (fabric/paper) is fed around the perforated cylinder. The
steel mantle of the drum is covered with a heat resistant padding material.
The sublistatic paper usually extands about 1inch beyond each selvedges of
the fabric. The projecting edges of the paper are sealed off by adjustable
perforated Teflon tapes which reject the dyestuffs and protect the drum
edged from getting soiled. Heating is done by infra-red heating, filled in a
special reflecting chamber.
Vacuum Transfer printing
Ink jet printing
 Ink jet printing
Ink jet printing is a stream of liquid in the
form of dye solution produced by a spray nozzle.
Ink jet printing is mainly used to produce
patterns on carpets. This printing method is
fundamentally different from other printing
techniques. This is an innovative method for the
application of wonderful patters to the textile
material where small droplets of dye solution are
affected and applied to a precise location
 Special features of Ink jet printing
• In ink jet process there is no contact between a dye applicator (e.g.
engraved roller or screen) and the material being printed.
• No print paste (with thickener) is used in ink jet printing. Rather dye
liquors (inks) are squirted through microprocessor controlled jet nozzles
i.e. dye liquor is used for printing.
• The ink must be of low viscosity, have adequate fastness to light and
wash and have PH as close as possible to neutral
• Ink jet printing is the only approach that can provide the really rapid
response the changing demand.
• Computer Aided Design (CAD) systems can be attached with ink jet
printing.
• Ink jet printing is carried out almost silently at a high speed (120 m2/min)
on surfaces which can b in any form e.g. eggs, wadding, metal cans
(round). That is to say the surface to be printed needs not to be flat.
Special features of Ink jet printing
• A large number of colors can be used in the print
and all the colors can be used in printing at a time.
• Very large repeats are possible to print.
• The machines are very expensive.
• Pre treatment of fabric is necessary before printing.
• It is used for sophisticated and decorative printings
e.g. for very special fabric s and costly carpets.
• Special type of reactive dyes has been developed
for printing on cotton fabrics by ink jet printers.
Flow chart of Ink jet printing
 Types of Ink Jet Printing
In ink jet printing patterns are produced on
substrate by impinging very small droplets of
dye on the substrate in a predetermined
pattern. According to this aspect there are Two
(2) types of ink-jet printing, namely-
1. Continuous ink-jet in which drops are
continuously produced and selectively printed
2. Drop-on-demand in which drops are produced
when required.
 Continuous ink-jet printing
• In continuous ink jet printing, the ink is force at high
pressure through a small nozzle of 10-100 microns in dia.
• The emerging stream of ink breaks into small droplets.
Electric charge is imparted to the drops by placing a charge
electrode.
• The charged drops are deflected when they subsequently
pass through an electric field and return to a dye storage
tank.
• The uncharged droplets are directed onto the substrate
where the design is built up in the desired color way. this
system is based on 4-color printing(Cyan, magenta, yellow
and black)
 Continuous ink-jet printing
Two (2) application methods-
• Charged drops are used for printing and uncharged drops are
collected in a catcher.
• It is possible to control up to 30 different dot positions per
nozzle. The ink collected in a catcher can be recirculated.
• The uncharged drops are used for printing, while the charged
ones are collectedly by the catcher(multilevel application)
• Only one dot positions per nozzle is possible. The ink collected
in catcher can be re circulated.(binary application)
• In continuous ink jet printing the design to be printed is first
scanned. Then is created on CA. Finally the design is fed to m/c
through CAD.
Continuous ink-jet printing
 Drop-on-demand (DOD) ink
jet machine
• The chromotronic machine (developed by Zimmer) is a DOD ink jet printing
machine.
• It resembles a flat screen printing mechanism because here the substrate is
moved intermittently and printing is performed by a print head traversing
the substrate from side to side while it is a held stationary on the transport
belt.
• During the traverse a bank of needle valve in the print head are made to
open individually in turn at the correct/instant to place “shots” of dye
liquor in appropriate positions, so as to build up one color of the pattern.
• The print head is relatively large, as the special needle jet valves are about 5
cm in diameter.
• In the original full width printing machine each successive color was applied
by anther traversing print head, in a manner analogous to the successive
screens in a flat screen printer.
 Drop-on-demand (DOD) ink
jet machine
• In this process the dye liquor flow is intermittent,
controlled by means of high speed valves which are
operated from digital data on magnetic storage discs.
• Good pattern definition is achieved having a matrix of
as many as 500 jets; each one is slightly offset from the
next. The print head which traverses a 64 cm distance
gives a resolution of about 8 jets per cm.
• For linear the speed should be the same, (say 10
m/min), however the needle valves have to operate 4-5
times faster to achieve the same definition in eh jet
traversing direction.
 Drop-on-demand (DOD) ink
jet machine
• In DOD ink jet printers valve opening time i.e. firing
time is 5-15 micro seconds and liquor pressure is
about 70 kpa.
• The frequency of firing is determined b the speed
of printing. For example the frequency of firing
should be 69 Hz if the printing speed is 10
meter/min.
• The chromo jet machines use shorter firing times
and higher liquor pressure and valves can operate
at up to 400 Hz.
Drop-on-demand (DOD) ink
jet machine
 Advantages of available Ink Jet printing
m/c
• No limitations of number of colors.
• Large repeats are possible to print without restoring of
special techniques i.e. No limitation of repeat length.
• No requirements of screen preparation or engraving roller.
• Saving of expensive printing materials.
• Low energy consumption
• Flexibility-individual, exclusive design.
• Eco-friendly-the wastage of print paste.
• Optimum surface appearance results.
• Allowing quick customer response
 Limitations of Ink Jet Printing
• Machine is not commercially available.
• It is very expensive and sophisticated. So initial
investment cost if high.
• Printing speed is limited.
• Pretreatment are necessary before printing.
• Very skilled persons are required for operating.
• Pigment s can be used carefully because
pigment particle may create blockage in jet
nozzles.
Flock printing
 Flock printing
• Flock printing is a method of fabric ornamentation. In
this printing technique the fabric is printed with and
adhesive and then finely chopped fibres are applied all
over by means of dusting-on, air-blast or electrostatic
attraction. The fibres adhere only the printed areas and
are removed from the unprinted areas by mechanical
action. The two stages of flock printing are-
1. Application of adhesive to the surface of the cloth by
machine or screen either uniformly or according to
design.
2. Application of flocks to the adhesive
 Flocks
• “Flock” is the fine dust of fibre obtained from the loom during the
weaving of a fabric. The fine fibres possess a very soft handle. But
flocks from the loom are inadequate to cope with eh printing
requirements. So for flock printing, flocks are artificially from
fibres.
• According to Textile Institute “Flock is a material obtained by
reducing textile fibres to fragments by cutting, tearing or grinding.”
• The monofilament fibres from which flocks are made are-
viscose,cotton, wool, nylon, polyester, acetate etc. The most
frequently used fibre titres are in the range of 0.9-22 dtex and the
usual fibre length s are between 0.5and 2 mm.
• Flocks may be white or colored. The use of flocks gives pile effect
on surface.
 Types of flock
According to the features of flock cutting there are
Two (2) types of flock, namely-
1. Random cut flock: These are obtained from fibre dust.
In random cutting, fibres which are longer than 1mm
are separated and only 1mm long fibre s are kept.
2. Precision cut flock: These are obtained from viscose,
polyester and nylon tow. In precision cutting, a definite
length of fibres i.e. 1mm cut after they extrude out
from the spinneret. Such cutting is done in case of Man
made fibres
 Types of flock
Again according to end-use, Two (2) classes of
flocks, namely-
1. Stuffing flock: Fibres in entangled small masses or
beads, usually of irregular broken fibres, obtained
as a by product from , for example, milling,
cropping or raising of wool fabric and mainly used
for stuffing, padding or upholstery.
2. Coating flock: Cut or ground fibres used for
application toe yarn, fabric, paper, wood, metal or
wall surfaces prepared with an adhesive.
 Basic principle of flock printing
• For flock printing eh fabric to be printed should well desized, smooth and as
compact as possible. The basic principle of flock printing may be describe as
below
• Application of adhesive: Adhesive is applied to fabic by squeezes, rollers, screens
or spray methods. Synthetic resins can serve as the best adhesive for flock printing.
A typical recipe-
Paralac 67----40 parts
Paralac 11----10 parts
White spirit---34 parts
China clay----15 parts
Lead naptholate (3% solution)---0.8 parts
Cobalt(8% solution)---------------0.3 parts
Water--------------------------------x parts
Total 1000 parts
 Basic principle of flock printing
• Flock application: The flock is applied from above the material
or against the force of gravity, from below the material. Flocks
of precise staple length and titre, with moisture content of
about 13% are essential prerequisites fro optimum result in
flocking.
• Drying: The drying conditions are dependent on the
requirements of particular bonding agent used. Dying is
carried out at 700C for 3-8 mins. Suitable drying unit has
steam heated tunnel driers as well as infra red radiation.
• Final treatment: At last excess flocks from unprinted areas are
removed by brushing with brush rollers together with a
mechanical suction unit.
 Types of flock printing
1. Dusting through a sieve or sprinkling with
hand
2. Pneumatic or spraying with air under
pressure.
3. Electrostatic method
 Electrostatic method
• Electrostatic flocking is entirely different from mechanical or pneumatic methods.
The physical principle of electrostatic flocking is based on the attraction of unlike,
and the repulsion of like charges. Therefore electrostatic forces are produced on
long-shaped articles, e.g. flocks, which are capable of carrying electrical charges.
• The fibre which have become charged by contact or ionization, are subjected to a
force in the strong electrical field which causes the fibres to move in the direction
of oppositely- charged electrode. During this movement the fibers are oriented in
the direction of the force line and are separated from each other due to the
repulsion of their like changes.
• The flocks are placed on the fabric through charged hopper on the fabric. As the
underside of the fabric is earthed, net positive charge develops on the upper
surface of the fabric. Again the flocks are shot into the adhesive film, which acts as
eh opposite electrode. Here the flocks are anchored in aligned state. The electric
charges are discharged, over the adhesive film. Those fibres which have not been
able to penetrate into the bonding agent fly back to the other electrode after
charge reversal has taken place and take part in flocking processes once more.
• The pile density in this method is very high, so two vacuum suction units are used.
Electrostatic method
Burn out printing
 Burn out printing
• According to Textile Institute ‘ Burn out printing is the
production of a pattern on a fabric by printing with a
substance that destroys one or more of the fibre types
present.’
• The process of printing a design on flat fabrics
composed of different fibre types with la paste
containing chemicals capable of dissolving or
destroying one of the fibre components is known as
burn out style of printing. Fabrics resembling lace have
been produced in this way fro shirtings and other
fashion articles.
 Mechanism of Burn out printing
• As the name suggests, this seems to be rather a drastic process which
involves the destruction of all or at least part of eh fabric in the printed areas
of the pattern. This can happen accidentally in various styles if the chemical
processes are not properly controlled but in the burn out or devore style,
the removal of part of eh substrate is essential to get the desired effect.
• The principle is quite simple and entails the use of a print paste containing
and agent that is capable of dissolving or destroying the fabric in the printed
areas during subsequent processing. The effect can be employed alone or in
conjunction with printed head-colors. But in either case the extent to which
‘burn out’ is required must be controlled so that the physical strength and
structural stability of the fabrics are not unduly impaired.
• Any fabric can be subjected to such a process if a reagent is used which can
be adequately controlled during processing and which is not harmful to
operatives or machinery.
 Advantages of burn out printing
• Burn out printing is used to bake fashion
dresses and decorative purposes.
• No special or costly machine is required for it.
• This style was originally used on cotton to give
novle dress fabric effect.
Disadvantages of burn out printing
• This is a drastic process involving the destruction fo all
or at least part of fabric in the printed areas
• If the chemical process n not properly controlled the
whole fabric will be damaged.
• This style of printing may impair the tensile strength
and structural stability of the fabric.
• Once printed, can not be corrected
• The highly concentrated chemicals are harmful to
operatory and machinery.
• Only blended fabrics can be printed.
Burn out printing process of P/C fabric
• In burn out printing process, the cellulose portion of
polyester-cotton (cellulose) blended fabric is completely
removed or chemically destroyed leaving a cent percent
polyester fabric with the desired properties. In general, it is
most efficiently accomplished by the use of strong H2SO4 of
70-75% strength.
• In practice P/C blend fabric is treated with 70% H2SO4
• Burn out printing may be carried out in following two
methods-
1. By using jigger m/c
2. By using Padding mangle
 Recipe
Recipe of Jigger method:
• H2SO4 -----70% in strength
• Time -------45 minutes
• Temp-------Room temperature
• M:L--------1:15
Recipe of Padding method:
• H2SO4 -----70% in strength
• Urea--------10gm/L
• Time -------120 minutes
• Temp-------Room temperature
• M:L--------1:15
 Burn out printing process of P/C fabric
• After burn out, the fabric is washed thoroughly to remove degraded
cellulose and remaining H2SO4. Then it is neutralized with Soda ash and
bleached with H2O2 to remove the brownish tint imparted during burn out.
The fabric is washed again and dried.
• In Jigger, it is difficult to maintain the temperature. H 2SO4 in water produces
heat .So to control the temperature; ice is placed around the jigger/pad
trough.
• H2SO4 which is generally obtained from viscose-rayon industries and
fertilizer plant contains HNO2 and HNO3. These components/compounds
react with –NH2 group of disperse dye. The amino group of urea reacts with
HNO2 and HNO3 and prevents color fading.
• In jigger, required time is less. So reaction of –NH 2 group of disperse dye
with HNO2 and HNO3 may not have taken place but still urea could be used.
 Reduction clearing
The recipe of reduction clearing is as below-
• Alkali----2 gm/L
• Soda ash----2gm/L
• Sando-clean PC----2gm/L
• M:L------1:20
• Temperature---700C
• Time---15 min
• If deep shade is dyed, then reduction is necessary
before burn out printing, because as dyes are more so
unfixed dyes may react with H2SO4 .